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grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!
You could also replace the fans on the Thermalright and still wind up ahead in terms of cost.

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Sterf
Dec 31, 2004

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

If Thermalright's coolers aren't available in your region (and they often aren't outside of NA and Asia), then Deepcool's coolers are still pretty good. I wouldn't go with the Dark Rock Pro 4, though. Its fans are underpowered and its just very overpriced for what it is.

Would a DeepCool AK400 be good enough for a 7600X and be about as quiet as that Dark Rock Pro 4?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Annath posted:

I can fully recommend the DH15 - it straight up turns off the fan at idle and web browsing, and it's basically inaudible when running at load, at least compared to my case fans.

This is a mobo fan speed setting, other coolers can do this too. Idle CPUs downclock like crazy and drop the power draw way down.

I love the look of my wife’s silver D15 with black fans + white rubber corners, but I do not love the way you put fans on the D15.

I did a fan swap while it was in her case and dealing with the top of the near the top of the case is awful.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Sterf posted:

Would a DeepCool AK400 be good enough for a 7600X and be about as quiet as that Dark Rock Pro 4?

Get the AK620 instead. It's at least as good as the DRP4 while being cheaper in most regions. If you can get your hands on the Scythe Fuma 3, that may be even better.

ephphatha
Dec 18, 2009




Dendra posted:

What country are you in? Australia
Do you live near Microcenter? No
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? Dual monitor for office work, would now like to try 1440p gaming
What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. Roughly this price point (1500USD it seems, living in Australia makes the conversion weird)
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get. Wanting to comfortably game at 1440p at high quality, now that I am abandoning my 1080p monitors

PCPartPicker Part List

Some of the part choices are constrained by availability where I live eg the 13400F was out of stock so I was nudged up to the 13500.
The website said I might need to update BIOS on the motherboard to make sure the CPU works...is this a genuine issue, or just a hypothetical interaction it's flagging?
Anything I have messed up horribly or some obvious better option? I'll bring Win11 over from elsewhere, so don't need to pay for that.

Thanks!

Where were you looking for stock? Using au.pcpartpicker.com and spot checking the common online retailers shows the 13400F is pretty available. The 970 evo plus is also more expensive over here than the crucial p5 plus (or only a buck cheaper from non-amazon retailers) and the latter is a PCIE 4.0 drive with twice the cache. You could also quite easily use an RM750x instead of the 850W version with a 4070 to save a bit more.

The compatibility issue is the Z690 chipset was released for 12th gen intel chips, so you probably will need to flash it with an updated bios to use with a 13th gen cpu. You've also picked a DDR4 motherboard, if you're willing to cut a bit going to a DDR5 based system is possible and would be more easily upgraded in the future. You could do something like the following for the same budget as that build: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/wJMBDZ

The mobo/ram were just the first ones that looked reasonable and offered similar functionality to your original picks. I'm not terribly familiar with DDR5 speed ratings so it may be worth spending a few extra dollars on faster ram or even dropping back to the DDR4 mobo/ram if immediate performance is more important than future upgradability. Hopefully someone else can weigh in on that.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Could use some upgrade advice.

I typically go stretches of a few years using my PC without upgrading and I think I'm getting close to that time now. I'm trying to build a system primarily for MSFS but I also use it for general gaming/daily use.

My existing system is 100% reliable with zero problems other than I replaced my old HSF with a Peerless Assassin a few months back; and bought a 3090 shortly after release in a Newegg bundle with a MSI 850W power supply to replace the 1080ti and 650w PS which I sold during the covid insanity so they are approx 2 years old now.

I'm not against re-using what I can for components, but then again I'm also OK going up to and including all new if it makes sense.

Here is my existing system:

CPU: 9900K
HSF:Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU
Motherboard: MSI MPGZ390 Gaming Plus (MS-7B51)
Memory: 4x Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-3200
Storage: 2x Samsung 970 Evo 1TB (RAID0)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX3090 Gaming X Trio
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Tower Case Black
Power Supply: MSI - MPG A850GF PCIE 5.0, 80 GOLD Full Modular Gaming PSU
OS Win 10 Pro

I haven't had an AMD based system for *years* but I'm willing to jump to team red based on the 7800X3D. So I want to build around that.

New system selected so far:
CPU: 7800X3D

Other than that, I am very open.

I could use advise on motherboard, memory, drives, video and case.

Should I keep the 3090 or drop the coin on a 4090? I am using an older 3440x1440 UW. I am considering going to something ~43" 4K but I haven't yet.

The full size ATX Fractal R5 is ancient - I think I bought it in ~2014 and its been through a couple of builds. Are the thermals OK compared to a modern case? Should I finally retire it for something a little smaller, keeping in mind the GPU?

I like MSI products simply because I've never had problems with them; but they do not have to be MSI. I've had problems with every single Asus mobo I've ever owned, either DOA or dead after a year or two. This goes back to the 90s and the woeful customer support experiences. I'm sure it's 100% confirmation bias and not based on sane reasoning due to the sheer volume of people that don't have problems with them, but I just don't care for them so my preference would be to stick MSI if possible.... or at least not Asus.

The mobo, 3090 and 850W PS have been solid in this system.

Should I go with an "affordable" X670 or go B650 chipset motherboard? I was about to purchase a MSI X670-P PRO and some Corsair DDR5-6000 memory yesterday as tracking $$$ via camel the $$ was good, but decided to hold off as I started reading issues with Samsung memory chips and AMD motherboards, so not sure how to tell which memory has what. I selected the X670 as the $$ was actually less than many B650 boards and from my limited understanding the X670 is the "better" chipset. Is that true? I doubt I'll overclock the CPU, or if I do it will be minor as I would like to stay away from liquid cooling so no idea if its relevant or not for my wants.

I live in :canada: so US retailers aren't something I want to use other than Amazon or Newegg.

Budget isn't a big deal, I only really do this every few years or so, so I can justify dropping some coin to myself.

More interested in reliability and something that should last me for a while. I'm tempted to keep the 3090 and use it until I upgrade the monitor to something 4K/higher refresh, but I am open to going 4090 now if it makes sense as I can probably still get some decent $$ if I sell it (and I'd probably sell the 9900k components too) to offset some of the new build $$.

E: I just read that MSI motherboards are getting bloatware forced on you upon install and keep pushing Norton sign ups. If that's the case, MSI is dropping off my radar as a favourite.
EE: I do not need a wifi board but it wouldn't hurt, it is just not worth a premium to me.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 7, 2023

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

A good, inexpensive 1440p monitor I commonly recommend is this Acer Nitro model. And the only part that would be worth upgrading a tier in my opinion is the GPU, if you want a bit more graphical horsepower. The 4070 is more than good enough for BG3 and I suspect it will be for Starfield and many of the other big games for this console generation too.

Sweet. One last question -- none of this is urgent, any thoughts on whether it's worth waiting until November for sales or if I should just go ahead and buy while graphics cards are somewhat reasonable again?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
Crucial P5 Plus 1TB for $30
6600 MB/s, 5000 MB/s gen 4 drive

crucial.com/ssd/p5-plus/ct1000p5pssd8/ct20202911

free shipping

Slam Pajamas
May 21, 2007
ALL TEXT TITLE ALL-STARS
I was busy hemming and hawing over the weekend and was about to go ahead and get it but decided to sleep on it, then the prices jumped up :doh: Is there a way to know if the price would go back down or should I just charge ahead?

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

I've only gone and gotten married so now I can actually start looking at building a new PC for reals rather than theorycrafting as I have been for the last couple of years, hopefully I'll be able to save some money once Black Friday week rolls round. I've narrowed the case down to two choices and I'm hoping for some input as I'm having trouble deciding.

Its either going to be the Fractal Pop Air or the Lian Li Lancool 216. Here's my perception of the two:

Fractal Pop Air
  • I have a preference for the external aesthetics over the 216.
  • Cheaper at £83.99.
  • Has the option for an optical drive.
  • Has clearance issues at the top of the case.
  • Inferior air flow compared to the 216.
  • Inferior packed in fans compared to the 216.

Lian Li Lancool 216
  • Still looks great but not as good as the Pop Air.
  • More expensive at £120 and seems to be harder to get in the UK.
  • No option to have an optical drive.
  • Lots of adaptability in the case with no clearance issues and is only slightly larger than the Pop Air.
  • Superior air flow compared to the Pop Air.
  • Superior packed in fans compared to the Pop Air.

I've been looking at a fair few reviews and while both cases are recieved well the 216 is almost universally praised as the best case money can buy at this sort of budget, but its a 43% increase in cost over the Pop Air. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!
If you want the two cases to perform at a similar level, you would have to replace the front fans in Pop Air. That narrows the cost difference considerably. Even then, the 216 will likely be superior due to the more open front, and the fact that the included 160MM fans will outperform the majority of the 140MM fans on the market.

The 216 has a USB-C port included, the Pop Air does not. If you have a USB-C header on your motherboard and want to use it, you would have to pay extra for a cable for the Pop Air. That narrows the cost down even further.

The optical drive support is definitely a point in favor of the Pop Air, but only if you actually intend to use an optical drive. The use cases for optical drives are declining rapidly at this point.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Slam Pajamas posted:

I was busy hemming and hawing over the weekend and was about to go ahead and get it but decided to sleep on it, then the prices jumped up :doh: Is there a way to know if the price would go back down or should I just charge ahead?

there was not really a way to know that the price would go up and similarly there's not a way to know that the price will go down

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

I'm looking for some upgrade advice. My GPU is on its last legs, and I need to figure out a good replacement. I've read the OP, the Q&A post, and I looked at the quick pick list. It seems like a bunch of the info isn't really lined up with itself, and that maybe the prices and availability on the cards is constantly changing? Like, one of those posts suggests that I should look for a 3060Ti, while another's like "get the 3070(not Ti)", and such. Plus, when I google "3060Ti", I get a zillion different hits for different iterations of that series of card, and then my eyes cross and I wake up 8 hours later with blood dripping from my nose.

This is my current rig:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: MSI B450M BAZOOKA MAX WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory
Storage: Team MP33 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6 GB HYBRID Video Card
Case: Cougar MX330-G ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fans: CRYORIG QF120 Silent 44 CFM 120 mm Fan

I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me untangle the different designators and details for the various cards that are available at the moment, so I can attempt to shop for the correcta workable card at a decent price. I built this rig at the height of the pandemic, and that was a pain in the rear end, and my last rig before that was like 2016, so to say I'm not well versed in this poo poo is an understatement.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Lord Ludikrous posted:

I've only gone and gotten married so now I can actually start looking at building a new PC for reals rather than theorycrafting as I have been for the last couple of years, hopefully I'll be able to save some money once Black Friday week rolls round. I've narrowed the case down to two choices and I'm hoping for some input as I'm having trouble deciding.

Its either going to be the Fractal Pop Air or the Lian Li Lancool 216. Here's my perception of the two:

Fractal Pop Air
  • I have a preference for the external aesthetics over the 216.
  • Cheaper at £83.99.
  • Has the option for an optical drive.
  • Has clearance issues at the top of the case.
  • Inferior air flow compared to the 216.
  • Inferior packed in fans compared to the 216.

Lian Li Lancool 216
  • Still looks great but not as good as the Pop Air.
  • More expensive at £120 and seems to be harder to get in the UK.
  • No option to have an optical drive.
  • Lots of adaptability in the case with no clearance issues and is only slightly larger than the Pop Air.
  • Superior air flow compared to the Pop Air.
  • Superior packed in fans compared to the Pop Air.

I've been looking at a fair few reviews and while both cases are recieved well the 216 is almost universally praised as the best case money can buy at this sort of budget, but its a 43% increase in cost over the Pop Air. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The Pop Air is a budget case. The 216 is better designed, better build, and will have better performance.

FWIW, I was always in favor being able to install an optical drive. My former desktop (now HTPC), replaced just a few months ago, still had DVD burner and Bluray drives. However, I hadn't used either in years.

For my new build, I went with a Fractal North which doesn't have space for an optical drive. The aesthetics and airflow were just too compelling. If I REALLY need an optical drive, I can always get a USB one, and that has the benefit of being able to plug into a laptop.

Reiterpallasch
Nov 3, 2010



Fun Shoe
Some incidental questions from not having done this poo poo in like 7 years:

- do i still need to buy thermal paste separately? if so, what do people recommend these days?
- is there a point to anti-static wristband things or is it fine to just touch the case every now and then?
- do i need any tools beyond a phillips screwdriver? i seem to recall that m.2 SSDs have weirdo tiny screws that can be a pain in the rear end
- how do people install windows on a new machine these days? i don't think i have a single usb stick in my apartment because why would i, should i just buy one and use that as bootable media?
- i think the last time i built a computer people still liked newegg, which doesn't appear to be the case today. for buying from amazon, how much should i be worried about getting scammed by third party marketplace sellers?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



slidebite posted:

Could use some upgrade advice.

I typically go stretches of a few years using my PC without upgrading and I think I'm getting close to that time now. I'm trying to build a system primarily for MSFS but I also use it for general gaming/daily use.

My existing system is 100% reliable with zero problems other than I replaced my old HSF with a Peerless Assassin a few months back; and bought a 3090 shortly after release in a Newegg bundle with a MSI 850W power supply to replace the 1080ti and 650w PS which I sold during the covid insanity so they are approx 2 years old now.

I'm not against re-using what I can for components, but then again I'm also OK going up to and including all new if it makes sense.

Here is my existing system:

CPU: 9900K
HSF:Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU
Motherboard: MSI MPGZ390 Gaming Plus (MS-7B51)
Memory: 4x Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-3200
Storage: 2x Samsung 970 Evo 1TB (RAID0)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX3090 Gaming X Trio
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Tower Case Black
Power Supply: MSI - MPG A850GF PCIE 5.0, 80 GOLD Full Modular Gaming PSU
OS Win 10 Pro

9900k and a 3090 with 64 gigs of ram should be a pretty capable system still, id wait for 5000 series GPU and splurge on a nice monitor with the current setup.

What are your goals with the fast upgrade vs this current system?

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

neogeo0823 posted:

I'm looking for some upgrade advice. My GPU is on its last legs, and I need to figure out a good replacement.

I'm not a thread regular, and I can't really give you a good answer, except to note that we're now on the nVidia 4XXX generation, not the 3XXX generation, and while the 3XXX cards are still very good, it's unlikely that buying a new 3XXX card is your best option (ebaying a used one may be though, if you're looking for something budget).

I think the thread regulars will ask you for your budget, your usage (games? Which games? something else?) and your monitor's resolution to give a better answer.

Yudo
May 15, 2003

Reiterpallasch posted:

Some incidental questions from not having done this poo poo in like 7 years:

- do i still need to buy thermal paste separately? if so, what do people recommend these days?
- is there a point to anti-static wristband things or is it fine to just touch the case every now and then?
- do i need any tools beyond a phillips screwdriver? i seem to recall that m.2 SSDs have weirdo tiny screws that can be a pain in the rear end
- how do people install windows on a new machine these days? i don't think i have a single usb stick in my apartment because why would i, should i just buy one and use that as bootable media?
- i think the last time i built a computer people still liked newegg, which doesn't appear to be the case today. for buying from amazon, how much should i be worried about getting scammed by third party marketplace sellers?

Probably not. Most coolers come with some thermal compound--it is pretty standard nowadays. In the unlikely event you need to buy paste, just get something that isn't electrically conductive. Arctic MX-4 is cheap and works well enough, as a suggestion.

There is a point to them, but it is incredibly niche. Be smart; don't drag your feet along your carpet/rugs before handling PC parts, and yes, touching your case now and then is a good idea. Ideally, the case would have its PSU installed, ***switched off (using the PSU's on off switch)***, and plugged in so it is connected to ground. Even that may be overkill. Don't worry about it.

All you need is a Philips head screw driver. #2 Philips is going to be the best fit, and one with a long thin shank can be helpful as well. You likely have one lying around already; if not, they are a few dollars at Harbor Freight.

I haven't installed Windows in a long time, but IIRC I used a bootable USB stick. A 32gb drive is a few dollars, though a 256gb is $12 (only buy "name brand" high capacity USB media on Amazon). Solid state storage is crazy cheap right now. You can also create a bootable DVD if you still have an optical drive.

Getting scammed? It happens, I'm sure; always check the retailer's reviews, and if it is too good to be true (e.g. a 1tb USB stick for $10), it likely is. However, some parts may only be covered by warranty if it is sold by an approved vendor. For example, if you buy a Gigabyte video card from some random marketplace seller, it is grounds for the rejection of any RMA. To be safe, buy "sold by Amazon" only. I think this mostly applies to video cards and motherboards. RAM warranties are tend to be generous, and the same goes for CPUs (to a lesser extent) due to the failure rates being very low. That all said, if a part is going to eat poo poo, very often it will be well within the Amazon return window--if it works out of the box, it is likely to keep working for quite some time. TL;DR: there are lots of good marketplace vendors, but to protect your warranty on a motherboard and video card, consider buying "sold by Amazon," not from the marketplace.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Grumpwagon posted:

I'm not a thread regular, and I can't really give you a good answer, except to note that we're now on the nVidia 4XXX generation, not the 3XXX generation, and while the 3XXX cards are still very good, it's unlikely that buying a new 3XXX card is your best option (ebaying a used one may be though, if you're looking for something budget).

I think the thread regulars will ask you for your budget, your usage (games? Which games? something else?) and your monitor's resolution to give a better answer.

Fair enough, yeah. To preemptively answer those questions, my budget would be "cheaper is better", on the grounds that this is a sudden thing and it's not like I planned on having this money available. But I also know that a quick googling of the various cards I posted directly about showed they were like $400, so I guess around there, give or take? Usage is pretty much entirely games, like Minecraft, Deep Rock Galactic, Death's Door, Hades, Dwarf Fortress, Factorio, and similar. Monitor resolution is 1920 x 1080 at 1080p, 60hz.

Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry

neogeo0823 posted:

Fair enough, yeah. To preemptively answer those questions, my budget would be "cheaper is better", on the grounds that this is a sudden thing and it's not like I planned on having this money available. But I also know that a quick googling of the various cards I posted directly about showed they were like $400, so I guess around there, give or take? Usage is pretty much entirely games, like Minecraft, Deep Rock Galactic, Death's Door, Hades, Dwarf Fortress, Factorio, and similar. Monitor resolution is 1920 x 1080 at 1080p, 60hz.

I play those games on that resolution and refresh with your current processor, and a 2070 regular

Get a 6700xt or a 6800 on extreme discount. You could also just get a 3060ti if you’re not gonna be looking to a bigger monitor at any time soon. Or a 4060 if your priority isn’t strictly value/$ and you want a leap in efficiency.

Gunshow Poophole fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 8, 2023

Yudo
May 15, 2003

neogeo0823 posted:

I'm looking for some upgrade advice. My GPU is on its last legs, and I need to figure out a good replacement. I've read the OP, the Q&A post, and I looked at the quick pick list. It seems like a bunch of the info isn't really lined up with itself, and that maybe the prices and availability on the cards is constantly changing? Like, one of those posts suggests that I should look for a 3060Ti, while another's like "get the 3070(not Ti)", and such. Plus, when I google "3060Ti", I get a zillion different hits for different iterations of that series of card, and then my eyes cross and I wake up 8 hours later with blood dripping from my nose.

This is my current rig:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: MSI B450M BAZOOKA MAX WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory
Storage: Team MP33 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6 GB HYBRID Video Card
Case: Cougar MX330-G ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fans: CRYORIG QF120 Silent 44 CFM 120 mm Fan

I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me untangle the different designators and details for the various cards that are available at the moment, so I can attempt to shop for the correcta workable card at a decent price. I built this rig at the height of the pandemic, and that was a pain in the rear end, and my last rig before that was like 2016, so to say I'm not well versed in this poo poo is an understatement.

As Grumpwagon said, without your intended use and budget, it is hard to give any advice. In general, larger number = gooder, or at least higher tier on the product stack.

For both AMD and Nvidia, the thousands place denotes the generation of product (usually, though this will likely change in the future). A 40xx Nvidia card is a newer generation product vs. anything 30xx. For AMD, it is much the same--a 7xxx card is a newer generation product vs. a 6xxx card.

In terms of the product stack: for Nvidia, the 4090 is a much higher performance and higher priced card than the 4060 because number bigger. On the AMD side, the 7900xtx is a much higher performance and price tier vs. the 7600, the 6750xt is higher performance than the 6700xt, etc. as number bigger. The "ti" for Nvidia means that it is a higher tier product vs. its non-ti counterpart. For example, the 4070ti is a considerably faster and more expensive card than the 4070, but it is still not as powerful as a 4080. On the AMD side, "XT" is more or less equivalent to "ti", though they have made it a clusterfuck this generation. In general, within a class of product e.g. 7900xtx > 7900xt > 7900. Comparing products across generations is trickier and isn't as easy to articulate in a digestible way.

The naming schemes for GPUs aren't quite the mess that is CPUs, but it can be confusing.

edit:

neogeo0823 posted:

Fair enough, yeah. To preemptively answer those questions, my budget would be "cheaper is better", on the grounds that this is a sudden thing and it's not like I planned on having this money available. But I also know that a quick googling of the various cards I posted directly about showed they were like $400, so I guess around there, give or take? Usage is pretty much entirely games, like Minecraft, Deep Rock Galactic, Death's Door, Hades, Dwarf Fortress, Factorio, and similar. Monitor resolution is 1920 x 1080 at 1080p, 60hz.

That isn't a very demanding resolution, refresh rate, or slate of games. Still, you should get something flexible enough to play more intensive stuff. <$400, look at the Nvidia 3060 or AMD 6700xt. As mentioned above, you may also luck into an AMD 6800. The 4060 also exists, but we don't talk about it in polite company. Used, you can probably find a 3080 for about $400.

Yudo fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Aug 8, 2023

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

spunkshui posted:

9900k and a 3090 with 64 gigs of ram should be a pretty capable system still, id wait for 5000 series GPU and splurge on a nice monitor with the current setup.

What are your goals with the fast upgrade vs this current system?

Msfs. It's a monster and the 9900k is what's holding it back for the most part. It can get chuggy. The 7800x3d is pretty much the undisputed king with it and it's a actually a pretty dramatic improvement from what I've heard.

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh
I bought a 2TB Western Digital SN850X non-heatsink version. Did I do it wrong? It's in my PC, not a PS5 or anything. Be Quiet 500DX case if that's relevant.

Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry

WattsvilleBlues posted:

I bought a 2TB Western Digital SN850X non-heatsink version. Did I do it wrong? It's in my PC, not a PS5 or anything. Be Quiet 500DX case if that's relevant.

Is it working?

Then you're fine? Are you worried about the heat

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh

Gunshow Poophole posted:

Is it working?

Then you're fine? Are you worried about the heat

Wondering, pondering more than anything else. I've got insomnia at the moment and I may be overthinking.

I'm going to my rents later to install a 1TB SN850X in my dad's machine. Currently his BIOS time is over 30 seconds, whereas mine is about 11 with basically identical specs. I'm assuming he's got some superfluous stuff enabled in the BIOS that would account for that? Main difference with his machine is a poo poo load of USB peripherals and about 4 HDDs.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

slidebite posted:

Could use some upgrade advice.

I typically go stretches of a few years using my PC without upgrading and I think I'm getting close to that time now. I'm trying to build a system primarily for MSFS but I also use it for general gaming/daily use.

My existing system is 100% reliable with zero problems other than I replaced my old HSF with a Peerless Assassin a few months back; and bought a 3090 shortly after release in a Newegg bundle with a MSI 850W power supply to replace the 1080ti and 650w PS which I sold during the covid insanity so they are approx 2 years old now.

I'm not against re-using what I can for components, but then again I'm also OK going up to and including all new if it makes sense.

Here is my existing system:

CPU: 9900K
HSF:Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU
Motherboard: MSI MPGZ390 Gaming Plus (MS-7B51)
Memory: 4x Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-3200
Storage: 2x Samsung 970 Evo 1TB (RAID0)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX3090 Gaming X Trio
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Tower Case Black
Power Supply: MSI - MPG A850GF PCIE 5.0, 80 GOLD Full Modular Gaming PSU
OS Win 10 Pro

I haven't had an AMD based system for *years* but I'm willing to jump to team red based on the 7800X3D. So I want to build around that.

New system selected so far:
CPU: 7800X3D

Other than that, I am very open.

I could use advise on motherboard, memory, drives, video and case.

Should I keep the 3090 or drop the coin on a 4090? I am using an older 3440x1440 UW. I am considering going to something ~43" 4K but I haven't yet.

The full size ATX Fractal R5 is ancient - I think I bought it in ~2014 and its been through a couple of builds. Are the thermals OK compared to a modern case? Should I finally retire it for something a little smaller, keeping in mind the GPU?

I like MSI products simply because I've never had problems with them; but they do not have to be MSI. I've had problems with every single Asus mobo I've ever owned, either DOA or dead after a year or two. This goes back to the 90s and the woeful customer support experiences. I'm sure it's 100% confirmation bias and not based on sane reasoning due to the sheer volume of people that don't have problems with them, but I just don't care for them so my preference would be to stick MSI if possible.... or at least not Asus.

The mobo, 3090 and 850W PS have been solid in this system.

Should I go with an "affordable" X670 or go B650 chipset motherboard? I was about to purchase a MSI X670-P PRO and some Corsair DDR5-6000 memory yesterday as tracking $$$ via camel the $$ was good, but decided to hold off as I started reading issues with Samsung memory chips and AMD motherboards, so not sure how to tell which memory has what. I selected the X670 as the $$ was actually less than many B650 boards and from my limited understanding the X670 is the "better" chipset. Is that true? I doubt I'll overclock the CPU, or if I do it will be minor as I would like to stay away from liquid cooling so no idea if its relevant or not for my wants.

I live in :canada: so US retailers aren't something I want to use other than Amazon or Newegg.

Budget isn't a big deal, I only really do this every few years or so, so I can justify dropping some coin to myself.

More interested in reliability and something that should last me for a while. I'm tempted to keep the 3090 and use it until I upgrade the monitor to something 4K/higher refresh, but I am open to going 4090 now if it makes sense as I can probably still get some decent $$ if I sell it (and I'd probably sell the 9900k components too) to offset some of the new build $$.

E: I just read that MSI motherboards are getting bloatware forced on you upon install and keep pushing Norton sign ups. If that's the case, MSI is dropping off my radar as a favourite.
EE: I do not need a wifi board but it wouldn't hurt, it is just not worth a premium to me.

The 4090 is an extremely good graphics card, but it's still hard to justify for $1600 if you already have a 3090. I'd recommend building the PC with the 3090 at first and then see how it holds up to your use case. If you want more GPU power still, then consider the upgrade. Swapping out GPUs is pretty easy, after all.

The Define is quite dated, but it may be acceptable if you leave the door open. Modern cases both cool better and are generally quieter though. Their superior airflow allows them to run their fans slowly, especially with a custom fan curve. Fractal Design is still making bangers if you want another of theirs—the North is functional and stylish, the Meshify 2 is a solid midrange series, and the Torrent is the best airflow case on the market, bar none. These should all be capable of housing a huge-rear end 4090—especially the Torrent, which is a big boy. I also like Lian Li these days. The Lancool 216 is an excellent midrange case with two big 160mm fans in the front (like a mini-torrent), and the Lancool III is their high-end option with lots of neat little mechanical tricks to make building in it easier, and it comes with four 140mm fans.

I haven't heard of that with MSI. Not saying it's completely untrue, but automatic software installation may be controlled by a bios option somewhere, which is usually off by default. I certainly haven't seen any goons who have bought MSI boards complaining about this. That said, I feel like Gigabyte and ASRock offer the most bang for your buck in the AM5 motherboard market currently. I suggest a B650 board with the I/O and storage options you need. AM5 motherboards all share the same general features—overclocking, memory support, etc. The difference between chipsets is I/O support. B650 comes with plenty, and X670 is literally just two B650s stapled together, for even more I/O. The E at the end simply denotes the presence of a PCIe 5.0 X16 slot. Though I wouldn't pay much extra for that E since the likelihood that having 5.0 support will matter for future GPUs is very low—4.0 already barely matters. The Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX is a solid choice that's been fairly popular. The ASRock B650 Pro RS cuts has been seeing some decent discounts/rebates lately that make it pretty good bang-for-your-buck. It's cheaper than the Aorus Elite by a decent margin these days while having roughly the same functionality. Biggest downgrades are the audio codec (it uses the mediocre ALC897, though to be clear all integrated audio is kinda rear end anyway) and the lack of integrated m.2 heatsinks. The MSI X670-P doesn't seem like a bad value either, but the rear I/O seems pretty limited for an X670 board. The four m.2 slots are nice, though. Anyway, there are a lot of other options depending on what you need or want, and it's hard to give any more specific advice without knowing those exact needs. Oh, and Asus has been laughably bad this CPU/mobo gen so I definitely won't be telling you to buy them.

(edit: I forgot one of the Pro RS's m.2 slots is PCIe 3 x2. that's a bit unfortunate, but I guess not terrible if used for a secondary mass storage drive or whatever)

As for the memory, Hynix may have an advantage if you want to tweak your memory's timings for the best performance, but if you aren't going to bother with that then Samsung is just fine. I haven't heard of any issues with Samsung memory being incompatible with Ryzen 7000, and if it's any slower then it's by one or two percent, most likely. But if you want to know, any DDR5-6000 memory with timings that are like XX-36-36-XX uses Samsung modules, I'm like 95% sure. Kits with higher timings are probably Hynix (Hynix generally can't do 36 on those two timings, but they aren't particularly important timings anyway).

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Aug 8, 2023

Slam Pajamas
May 21, 2007
ALL TEXT TITLE ALL-STARS
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4558612

So NewEgg is having a bundle sale, a current idea is:


PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JLrJ7R

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor (NEWEGG BUNDLE)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z690 FORCE WIFI DDR5 (NEWEGG BUNDLE)
Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($48.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: MSI SPATIUM M450 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ventus 2X 12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($348.03 @ MemoryC)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G360A ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $882.86

The PC Part picker doesn't even have the MSI Z690 Motherboard listed however,so I'm not sure if that would mean that the case is too small (doesn't seem to be true) or any other issues from this build, other than perhaps I'm leaving computer power on the table. I'm thinking it would be possible to start with this and then upgrade with a video card later on if I need to

DoombatINC posted:

also according to the Solid Engine website they only support Nvidia GPUs

Is that the Solidworks folks? I looked around and couldn't find where they said this

Slam Pajamas fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Aug 8, 2023

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!
You need DDR5 for that motherboard, not DDR4

Slam Pajamas
May 21, 2007
ALL TEXT TITLE ALL-STARS
Okay, so then

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/j34Ffy

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor (NEWEGG BUNDLE)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z690 FORCE WIFI DDR5 (NEWEGG BUNDLE)
Memory: Silicon Power XPOWER Zenith Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL40 Memory ($77.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: MSI SPATIUM M450 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ventus 2X 12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($348.03 @ MemoryC)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G360A ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)

Total: 911.86

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

grack posted:

Case stuff.

Josh Lyman posted:

More case stuff.

Thanks, this is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for. I do infrequently use optical drives but not so much that an external drive presents an issue - my plan before discovering the Pop Air was to get a 3d printed shell or something similar to use the blu ray drive my current PC has.

Lancool 216 it is then!

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





Slam Pajamas posted:

Is that the Solidworks folks? I looked around and couldn't find where they said this

It turns out I was looking at a piece of software called Solid Editor used for Solid Engine and not Solid Edge because I'm illiterate

CraigSlice
Sep 23, 2005
: )
I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but I'll be in Boston for a week and I'll be able to get one of the microcenter bundles.
Looking at 1440p gaming for now, will upgrade to 4k monitor later
Better to do the 7700x ($400) bundle + 4090 or the 7950x3d bundle+ 7900xtx or 4080. How much does the extra cache on the x3d's help.

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo
I bit the bullet and picked up a WD Black SN850X 4TB since i don’t wanna think about storage for a while and BG3 alone took up 125 gigs is storage lol.

I also picked up a pci e 4x 4.0 adapter card and I’m trying to figure out what to put where. I currently have a 3.0 2TB Intel 660 pci 3, which I have my OSes on, and a 1 TB WD 4.0. They’re both on the MSI B650’s Nvme slots, which go directly to the CPU. This adapter is going through the motherboard’s chipset.

Should it throw the 3.0 OS drive in the adapter since it’s slower anyway? I’ll probably use the 4.0s for gaming and other big file stuff, but more than likely just gaming since I don’t do video editing or CAD.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

CraigSlice posted:

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but I'll be in Boston for a week and I'll be able to get one of the microcenter bundles.
Looking at 1440p gaming for now, will upgrade to 4k monitor later
Better to do the 7700x ($400) bundle + 4090 or the 7950x3d bundle+ 7900xtx or 4080. How much does the extra cache on the x3d's help.

If you are in the market for a card priced like the 4090
I’d get the 4090 over those others any day of the week.

Yudo
May 15, 2003

CraigSlice posted:

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but I'll be in Boston for a week and I'll be able to get one of the microcenter bundles.
Looking at 1440p gaming for now, will upgrade to 4k monitor later
Better to do the 7700x ($400) bundle + 4090 or the 7950x3d bundle+ 7900xtx or 4080. How much does the extra cache on the x3d's help.

It will depend, but at 4k on a relatively demanding title, average FPS will be about the same on a 7700x and 7800x3D (the 7950x3D has a different core count and clock. It is also in a higher price tier. The extra cores don't do much for you in games). The same will likely be true in very demanding games at 1440p. Depending on your monitor's refresh rate, it may not matter. The 7700x + 4090 is absolutely the way to go of your proposed combos. It isn't even close, in my opinion. While 4080 and 7900xtx have a lot to commend them, the 4090 is in its own tier.

If you are doing production, while more CPU cores = better, having a 4090 trumps all other factors as a lot of those workloads are best offloaded to the GPU. For the applications I care about, the extra cache doesn't help much, though it might for what you use. If you want to balance cpu cores and the 4090, maybe look at the non-X3D 12 or 16 core parts.

Yudo
May 15, 2003

Well Played Mauer posted:

I bit the bullet and picked up a WD Black SN850X 4TB since i don’t wanna think about storage for a while and BG3 alone took up 125 gigs is storage lol.

I also picked up a pci e 4x 4.0 adapter card and I’m trying to figure out what to put where. I currently have a 3.0 2TB Intel 660 pci 3, which I have my OSes on, and a 1 TB WD 4.0. They’re both on the MSI B650’s Nvme slots, which go directly to the CPU. This adapter is going through the motherboard’s chipset.

Should it throw the 3.0 OS drive in the adapter since it’s slower anyway? I’ll probably use the 4.0s for gaming and other big file stuff, but more than likely just gaming since I don’t do video editing or CAD.

I used an adapter for awhile and had no problems with it. I never tried to boot from it though. You can always download a free trial of Macrium Reflect, clone your OS drive to your new drive, resize the partitions on the new drive, and boot from that. I did something similar and aside from a few annoyances, it was pretty easy. Given how slow the 660 is, you will notice a performance boost, even if only slight.

The Joe Man
Apr 7, 2007

Flirting With Apathetic Waitresses Since 1984

Yudo posted:

I used an adapter for awhile and had no problems with it. I never tried to boot from it though. You can always download a free trial of Macrium Reflect, clone your OS drive to your new drive, resize the partitions on the new drive, and boot from that. I did something similar and aside from a few annoyances, it was pretty easy. Given how slow the 660 is, you will notice a performance boost, even if only slight.
BTW regarding the Macrium partition issues, you can choose to auto-size it and not artificially shrink your drive down within the target drive pop-up window. It looks like it shouldn't be a toggleable button but it's on there. Click the red-circled button to change it and avoid several headaches later on:



Thanks for your help earlier!

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo

Yudo posted:

I used an adapter for awhile and had no problems with it. I never tried to boot from it though. You can always download a free trial of Macrium Reflect, clone your OS drive to your new drive, resize the partitions on the new drive, and boot from that. I did something similar and aside from a few annoyances, it was pretty easy. Given how slow the 660 is, you will notice a performance boost, even if only slight.

Thanks. Maybe I’ll just try throwing the 4TB on the adapter and see how it goes. The Amazon reviews all say things hit a great speed.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Gunshow Poophole posted:

I play those games on that resolution and refresh with your current processor, and a 2070 regular

Get a 6700xt or a 6800 on extreme discount. You could also just get a 3060ti if you’re not gonna be looking to a bigger monitor at any time soon. Or a 4060 if your priority isn’t strictly value/$ and you want a leap in efficiency.

I mean, the monitor is a 44in monitor, so it works well for what I need it for. Though, yeah, a second/third monitor would be neat to have at some point in the future.

Yudo posted:

As Grumpwagon said, without your intended use and budget, it is hard to give any advice. In general, larger number = gooder, or at least higher tier on the product stack.

For both AMD and Nvidia, the thousands place denotes the generation of product (usually, though this will likely change in the future). A 40xx Nvidia card is a newer generation product vs. anything 30xx. For AMD, it is much the same--a 7xxx card is a newer generation product vs. a 6xxx card.

In terms of the product stack: for Nvidia, the 4090 is a much higher performance and higher priced card than the 4060 because number bigger. On the AMD side, the 7900xtx is a much higher performance and price tier vs. the 7600, the 6750xt is higher performance than the 6700xt, etc. as number bigger. The "ti" for Nvidia means that it is a higher tier product vs. its non-ti counterpart. For example, the 4070ti is a considerably faster and more expensive card than the 4070, but it is still not as powerful as a 4080. On the AMD side, "XT" is more or less equivalent to "ti", though they have made it a clusterfuck this generation. In general, within a class of product e.g. 7900xtx > 7900xt > 7900. Comparing products across generations is trickier and isn't as easy to articulate in a digestible way.

The naming schemes for GPUs aren't quite the mess that is CPUs, but it can be confusing.

edit:

That isn't a very demanding resolution, refresh rate, or slate of games. Still, you should get something flexible enough to play more intensive stuff. <$400, look at the Nvidia 3060 or AMD 6700xt. As mentioned above, you may also luck into an AMD 6800. The 4060 also exists, but we don't talk about it in polite company. Used, you can probably find a 3080 for about $400.

Thank you, both of you, for this info! At least now I've got a couple things to look at and compare, and a target to save up for.

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Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry
sorry by "bigger" I mean "higher resolution" because the physical size of the monitor has no relation to your video card needs :)

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