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That sounds like oil on the brakes. Cant hurt to try to clean them. The absolute best way would be to pull the front wheel, pull the rotors off it and soak them down with brake cleaner. Same for the pads, pull them and soak them, then probably give the calipers a spraydown to keep any residual oil from getting back on the brakes. I just dealt with this when the left fork seal went out on the goldwing. The left caliper didnt get soaked with fork oil, but a little got on there, and I did just what I described above and it seems 100% now to me.
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Jul 25, 2023 15:35
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:24 |
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Have a look in the rotor holes and see if there's damp looking grime caked in there as well I don't think you'll get very far trying to clean the pads but at least take them out and look
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Jul 25, 2023 18:21
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Yeah if they’re soaked they probably need to be replaced but if it’s not a ton you could clean them
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Jul 26, 2023 00:00
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opengl posted:Does this sound like brake pad contamination? Pads are cheap. Maybe flush/re-bleed, lube what needs lubing, and put new pads in.
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Jul 26, 2023 01:43
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Yeah after thinking on it I’m just ordering pads. It uses 8 of them up front and the cheapest (non no name) option is OEM for about $140 for all of them. This is primarily a 2-up bike for rides with my wife so I’m not chancing anything. Will tear it apart, scrub the rotors clean, swap the pads and clean up/lube the calipers followed by a few flushes including triggering the ABS via service mode. I was originally also going throw braided lines at it too but between ABS and the linked brakes that’s a ton of lines I don’t feel like messing with unless I have to.
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Jul 26, 2023 02:19
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Ironically the more lines you have the bigger the difference braided lines make
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Jul 26, 2023 02:23
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Is it a cruel irony that multi compound tires will have uneven wear? I had RS10s (single compound) but rode too much freeway, and they started to square off. Now I have Q3+, and the center looks fine, but the sides are wearing down where the compound changes and "ramping" (the shoulder looks OK because I'm a coward). This is approx. 530 miles of track. Am I just expecting too much? This is a (not even) 30hp bike, so it shouldn't chew through tires. 
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Jul 26, 2023 04:25
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Buddy, you're getting 500+ miles of track riding from one set of tires? Is that what I'm reading?
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Jul 26, 2023 04:57
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Yeah basically.  After I added it up it seems like 500 miles might be a lot. It has a decent amount of tread left (at least where the wear bars are), just horribly uneven. I think I'm just going to buy a single compound tire again (RS10 or Q5) and avoid the freeway. 
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Jul 26, 2023 05:05
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Ironically the problem is your bike being light and not very powerful, if you had a big chonker with three digit power out would be wearing evenly I think
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Jul 26, 2023 06:52
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opengl posted:Does this sound like brake pad contamination? It was indeed the pads. One side was oily, the other side looked like they were slathered in grease. No way I'd trust trying to clean these. Cleaned up the calipers, swapped the pads, scrubbed the rotors, flushed the lines- the brakes now drat near put me over the handlebars.
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Aug 6, 2023 13:52
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Hm. What do y'all use for cleaning dirtbike std chain? The Maxima chain clean stuff works well, but it's expensive and dirtbikes get dirty every time. Water doesn't do anything. Soap does next to nothing. Grunge brush and anything less aggressive than that Maxima stuff does nothing. Power washer, nothing. I am OK oiling the chain, but can't figure out a good way to clean yet. Anything I can buy in bulk and not that expensive?
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Aug 7, 2023 16:11
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I really like using kerosene. It works very well on nasty chains and it's cheap. Currently I'm working my way through some leftover premix for the KTM250 I sold a couple months ago. It also works ok, but not as well.
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Aug 7, 2023 17:46
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Yeah, kerosene is a good choice. You can also reuse it for a very long time -- after it's all gross just pour it into a plastic container, let it sit for a week so all the solids settle out, then pour off the mostly clean liquid into a clean container.
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Aug 7, 2023 18:10
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Hmm. Using a rag? What do you do with the rag after use? Toss or keep in the container, or wring and let it air?
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Aug 8, 2023 17:05
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I put a catch pan under the wheel and chain. It's best to have the rear wheel off the ground. I use a plastic chain cleaning brush tool to brush a bunch on the chain first, in small sections. Then use the soaked brush again to clean up that section of chain. You can also keep rotating the rear wheel and hold the soaked brush tool against the chain. Once the chunks are off, I dry everything with paper towels. They'll be very dirty initially. Then oil the chain and wipe again. Something like this: 
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Aug 8, 2023 17:17
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Yeah, I have one of those. Didn't think it would hold anything for soaking. Hmm. I am trying one of those pressurized sure shot sprayers too. Thanks! Side note, I see mixed things about using kerosene on DID sealed chain. Anyone drstroy a sealed chain with it?
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Aug 8, 2023 17:29
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I've been using it on oring chains for a couple years. The chain on my 2021 KLX300R needs to be replaced, it has approximately 110 hours on it. It got cleaned at least every 2-4 hours. Lots of sand riding. I haven't personally experienced any problems due to the kerosene but it's possible some oring materials are negatively affected, idk
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Aug 8, 2023 17:51
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I've been using wd40 or turpentine.
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Aug 8, 2023 17:51
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I don't know where to buy kerosene so I've been using lamp oil which is pretty much the same thing but less smelly, more or less straight paraffin I think. And one of those three-sided chain brushes. No paper towels though, I use compressed air. Aerosolized dirty lamp oil goes flying everywhere (but mostly where I aim it) so I've started wearing a respirator. Maybe paper is better but air is definitely faster and really good at getting rid of all the solvent hiding in nooks and crannies before re-lubing.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:16
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I buy mine at Fred Meyer in 1 gallon plastic bottles
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Aug 8, 2023 18:17
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if you go out to the sticks you can sometimes still find a gas station that pumps it
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Aug 8, 2023 18:23
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Yeah kerosene is obtainable in my northern european hellhole too, just not readily so. Or rather, it's all variously well-refined paraffin oil but it's sometimes sold as "fotogen" which is what we call kerosene. Also I don't want a a big jug, a liter will last me years and years. Whatever, the stuff I use is fine and the low smell is a bonus since I spread it everywhere with the air blast anyways.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:25
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Some local hardware stores now sell 1 gallon bottles of ethanol-free premium. $35 ouch lol Luckily, there are a few stations around me where I can pump it for $6/gal
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Aug 8, 2023 18:26
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The lowest I can get is E5. E10 is the norm. The first time I winterized my learner bike I filled it with E5 to the brim, the second time I just parked it with whatever was in the tank (i.e. E10, about half full)in cold storage, and it ran a bit rough come spring and even stalled once until I topped it up with fresh gas. Ethanol has all sorts of nasty side effects.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:32
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Isn’t diesel fuel close enough to kerosene for this? I haven’t done it in a while but I used to keep a can of diesel fuel around for that sort of cleaning operation. Especially with the winter fuel blend in cold places, the diesel from a station pump is almost entirely kerosene anyway.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:36
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I might try that for convenience
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Aug 8, 2023 18:52
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Invalido posted:The lowest I can get is E5. E10 is the norm. The first time I winterized my learner bike I filled it with E5 to the brim, the second time I just parked it with whatever was in the tank (i.e. E10, about half full)in cold storage, and it ran a bit rough come spring and even stalled once until I topped it up with fresh gas. Ethanol has all sorts of nasty side effects.
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Aug 8, 2023 18:58
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Is it beneficial to clean the chain. I have NEVER in 20+ years cleaned a chain. One of my non-o-ring chains lasted for 25,000 miles just because I kept oiling it with every fill-up (about 150 miles) with just plain 80 weight or 130 weight gear oil. Although, I guess the definition of "lasted" here is "didn't snap" because it was definitely worn out. The bike also looks like a crude oil barge. ...Maybe this is an issue. On another bike that I have, I oil the chain in the same way (every fill-up), no cleaning, chain has about 2-3 inches of slack. It has not been adjusted in 13,000 miles. That's an o-ring chain, though. These are also small displacement bikes. But I'm not sure if cleaning a chain increases its lifespan.
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Aug 8, 2023 21:39
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Hmmm I am positive cleaning the chain on a dune bike will be beneficial. That sand can't be good on that many moving parts
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Aug 8, 2023 21:42
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I'm gonna go ahead and say 2-3 inches of slack is somewhere between suboptimal and deadly depending on the bike unless it's a dirt bike
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Aug 8, 2023 21:45
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Slavvy posted:I'm gonna go ahead and say 2-3 inches of slack is somewhere between suboptimal and deadly depending on the bike unless it's a dirt bike It isn't a dirt bike. That 25,000-mile chain did hop off the sprocket a few times. When that happens, it wedges itself in between the sprocket and the swingarm/chain guard, and the rear wheel jams. I should adjust that 10,000-mile chain, but, I need to buy new tires for that bike anyway...
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Aug 9, 2023 06:26
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Fortnine's video on various chain cleaners (including kerosene, Simple Green and WD-40), and their related video about chain lubes. I also use the Maxima stuff (and their chain wax), but the Muc-off cleaner works as well. It's so handy to spray on, brush, hose off and re-wax. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Aug 9, 2023 |
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Aug 9, 2023 09:11
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Another excellent way I learned this summer to clean your chain is to ride through heavy rain for several hours. It comes with its own unique set of inconveniences though.
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Aug 9, 2023 09:19
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Just spent the last couple of days extracting a broken exhaust hanger bolt from the engine case on my scooter, something I've had to do twice now and really wish to never, ever have to do again. Maybe I over torqued them, but the first time was the stock bolt before I ever touched it, so Question: What grade bolt should I replace them with? 8.8? 10.9? 12.9? I'm really not sure what's best, something tells me the higher grades might be more brittle and would be even harder to extract if it breaks again.
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Aug 9, 2023 21:51
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Use at least a 10.9, slather the threads in copper anti seize, run a tap or thread chaser through the hole. When you take your exhaust off, leave that particular bolt for very last. Higher grades have greater tensile strength (I am not a bolt expert) and are more likely to wind out than snap.
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Aug 9, 2023 21:58
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I don't have anything to add, except to tell you my little trip across the internet to refresh my memory on bolt grades taught me that through advancements in materials, there are now 14.9 and 15.8 bolts being made. Science!
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Aug 10, 2023 01:27
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Thanks, I won't cancel this 12.9 grade order then. Also got some split washers, I'll just be gentle with the torque and check them often. I'm never able to drill into a bolt dead center, but this one actually went through a bit of the thread. It's a miracle I didn't gently caress up the threads in the case (the other intact bolt goes in and out cleanly). What a nerve wracking job. 
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Aug 11, 2023 01:41
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A center punch and a set of cheap Amazon center drills is a great purchase. Their stiffness helps dramatically with getting small holes started properly.
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Aug 11, 2023 04:08
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I recently did my first trackday in a long time (9 years!) and it's got me wanting more and also to make my bike more fun to ride. There's a few things I'm curious about. Bike is an 04 SV650, by the way. First for tires: I've basically always just bought pilot roads because I'm not aggressive on the street and I appreciate the good rain performance. However, I noticed that even in the novice class the majority of the other riders had grippier tires on. I don't want to give up the highway wear of the current set (which are pretty new!) so I've been thinking about getting another set of wheels for some sportier tires that I swap on. Is this mega dumb? There's lots of listings online although I'm not sure how to ensure I get a straight set of wheels. I think I'd also want to get another sprocket and rotor and whatever the rest of the inside bits are so that it's easier to swap. Related to the above, how do I get better at understanding the limits of the tires? In a car it's easy to play with the limit and exceed it occasionally but I haven't had that experience on the motorcycle. Do I just need to start being a little more aggressive with inputs? What does approaching the limit feel like? And now for brakes: my bike has had a pulsing brake problem that I'd basically forgotten. On the street I rarely apply heavy brakes but off of the main straight I'd get a decent amount of pulsing while I slowed for the corner. What's the most likely culprit for this? I installed the pads myself like 10 years ago so it's possibly user error from improper bedding or something. Should I be replacing the pads? Rotors? Something else? And then just for fun, the brakes on the bike have always felt... not grabby, but, jumpy? Like it's tough to apply them smoothly. I don't know if it's in my head but it feels like the issue is at the lever. What's the best bang for the buck to improve brake feel? I've already got fresh fluid and stainless steel brake lines. Should I rebuild the master cylinder? Find some other one that swaps on? Please help me spend money.
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Aug 18, 2023 00:42
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