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ComradeBigT
Sep 9, 2014
On the topic of cleaning resin prints, is there much of a consensus from the more experienced people here on the value (if any) of using ultrasonic baths for cleaning? I know there's the obvious risk of just using straight IPA in the bath, but I've seen it mentioned in other places that the 'solution' is to have a normal water bath and the parts and IPA or whatever alcohol in a plastic bag sitting in the bath.

The part that's not really clear though is if it's any better or just comparable to the pretty standard basin with a little spinner that every printer manufacturer has a version of. My thinking is that if it's of comparable performance, I might get some value out of an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning other stuff, but I'm not gonna bother if it's generally agreed to do a worse job for cleaning fresh resin parts.

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Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
From the chat on enclosures and filters...

My X1c came in yesterday. Got it set up and printed a benchy. This thing is quick :stare:

I put it up to ludicrous mode and I'm going to need a different table I think. Wild.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Mr Newsman posted:

From the chat on enclosures and filters...

My X1c came in yesterday. Got it set up and printed a benchy. This thing is quick :stare:

I put it up to ludicrous mode and I'm going to need a different table I think. Wild.

lol yeah im about to have 6 p1ps going and the noise and vibrating is pretty impressive, i nee dot upgrade my tables and stuff

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
Waiting for the post when queebs house walks off its foundation from all the printers running.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

My dumb poo poo brains been thinking a lot about toolchangers lately. How are they exactly handled by slicers?

I have to assume that having different nozzle sizes, different hotend etc would really gently caress with how something like prusaslicer wants to do things.

In an ideal world it would be really cool to do some crazy thin perimeters for detail, while cranking out infill with some thick layer lines to speed up that end of things

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

w00tmonger posted:

My dumb poo poo brains been thinking a lot about toolchangers lately. How are they exactly handled by slicers?

I have to assume that having different nozzle sizes, different hotend etc would really gently caress with how something like prusaslicer wants to do things.

In an ideal world it would be really cool to do some crazy thin perimeters for detail, while cranking out infill with some thick layer lines to speed up that end of things

On the slicer's side, it's just adding a G-code command that tells the printer to stow the current head and prep the next one. The printer will handle all the details; the slicer just indicates where the transition happens.

PrusaSlicer 2.6 has options in Print Settings where you can choose which extruder on a multi-extruder printer corresponds with perimeters, infill and support material, so it natively supports that kind of optimization.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Came across the border yesterday with $300 usd in sunlu resin but just said it was for making miniatures and nothing about 3d printin, got waved along and didn't have to pay duty. Hell yeah resin for like 26 CAD/kg

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


queeb posted:

Came across the border yesterday with $300 usd in sunlu resin but just said it was for making miniatures and nothing about 3d printin, got waved along and didn't have to pay duty. Hell yeah resin for like 26 CAD/kg

nice glad you came across and saved.



Also a reminder to everyone using FDM.. Dont' forget to dry your filament. It's been super wet here and I was like meh I'll turn the dryer on now and just hit print.. First 20 min print was sphagetti. after drying a bit.. same printer settings and everything.. prints just like butter.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.
I'm having a hell of a time with Polylite PLA and the Bambu AMS.. As others have noted, the cardboard spools are really not compatible.

I tried being clever and basically tearing the "wings" of the cardboard spool off, and swapping the core into a Bambu reusable spool. Like it fits, and sometimes it works fine, but it's not a reliable solution :(

Next step I guess is to try a full respool.. I've never actually had to do that with FDM filament before - I see people are doing fun things with drill attachments and whatnot?

The reason I'm using Polylite instead of the Bambu filament with the handy RFID stuff is because it has a nicer range of colours, and is available from multiple sources. (and will show up next day from amazon)

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




https://www.printables.com/model/478246-polymaker-spool-outer-ring-for-bambu-ams

There's several models out there that are approximately the same as this
Give it a shot

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Sockser posted:

https://www.printables.com/model/478246-polymaker-spool-outer-ring-for-bambu-ams

There's several models out there that are approximately the same as this
Give it a shot

Good to know for future filament :D I was just seeing some tiktok that showed a person throwing something like this into the cardboard core (rather than an outer adapter), and then into the Bambu reuseable spools.

I'll try this first - i don't want to lose the filament I already tore the cardboard off of, heh

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG


Dove into the hobby feetfirst with these two printers.

On the right is the Monoprice Voxel Pro, which I got on the recent sale for $230. Seemed like a good deal for a half decent enclosed printer and I've been impressed with it so far aside from extrusion issues in the middle of a 100% infill print. I think I might need a filter on the filament since it seemed like the nozzle already got clogged, just normal PLA at 215 degrees. :shrug: Cold pull fixed it.

Funny story about the MK3S+. I bought it in 2021 for Black Friday as the kit. Put the Y axis together and never touched it until after I got the Voxel Pro. Managed to lose the cable sleeves in that year but everything else was still around miraculously (including the included gummy bears).

Also now I have way too much filament.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

queeb posted:

Came across the border yesterday with $300 usd in sunlu resin but just said it was for making miniatures and nothing about 3d printin, got waved along and didn't have to pay duty. Hell yeah resin for like 26 CAD/kg

I've been pretty happy with Sunlu resin. Seems like it just prints consistently well.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
I was kicking around the idea of making some big stuff on my FDM printer, but the stuff I want to make will probably need supports and I never really had luck with that.

Are there any one size fits all calibration prints that are good for dialing in support settings across multiple printers? I'd be printing PLA.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I printed a bunch of plastic spool covers but they ended up giving me issues. I have over a dozen polyterra cardboard spools and I have been using them as is with no issues..

All you need to worry about is the friction between the spool and the top rollers in the ams. Mine have a bit of rubbery coating and spins like a champ. Maybe some grip tape on the spinner?

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep
has anyone here had any experience with overture filament? specifically abs?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

hark posted:

has anyone here had any experience with overture filament? specifically abs?

Voron discord seems to indicate it can be a mixed bag but good for the price. This from people that have shoved hundreds of spools of filament into printers, so I tend to value their opinion.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Overture is my main filament because it's cheap and I've had no issues with ABS or PTEG and I've used it for years.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Hello thread!

I've learned some things:



- different filament colors need different temperatures.
- rafts are cool (except when they're not)
- I need to troubleshoot how well my z axis moves, because I don't think it's very smooth.

but I've had some successes!





I love this printer so much :allears:

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Hey I printed one of those low poly deals. Though I did a cat because, well:



Also, benchy done on the Prusa. Weird stringy bit is where I kicked the table like the klutz I am and the power cord came out. Seems a tad loose, might try a different cable since it's a normal C13.

Print recovery works, albeit I needed to clean the nozzle first :v:

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

The low poly models are great! Super cute, and so far easy to print.

I've been assigned a quest by my mom to find her a cute animal to adopt, so I'm descending into the thingiverse and printables et all to find something I think she'll like having and I can figure out how to print nicely in the filament colors I have.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I think all the flat faces are really good at showing off filament too. Especially that one I printed was Flashforge Burnt Titanium PLA, I'm having a hard time wanting to swap it out of active rotation, but I do have a two-color one that I'm eager to try...

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Oh! I haven't printed it yet, but I found a benchy-alike for those of us who want to print art pieces:

https://www.printables.com/model/209121-cali-dragon

quote:

Cali-Dragon!

Is your printer able to produce quality prints? When printing organic models you don't really care about precision and tolerances, you want them to look pretty. This small print allows you to test:

Surface smoothness (aka layer consistency)
Stringing
Small perimeters
Overhangs
Ghosting
Details
MMU (not tested by myself)

Can be printed with no infill at all.
Check here some printing tips: https://www.mcgybeer.xyz/printing-tips

3MF available with custom seam for PrusaSlicer

*EDIT: Added a Keychain version!! (note the horns may be fragile and tend to break easily if used as a keychain)

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Rad-daddio posted:

I've been pretty happy with Sunlu resin. Seems like it just prints consistently well.

Wild because my experience with sunlu has been miserable vs Sirayatech or even Elegoo

csammis
Aug 26, 2003

Mental Institution

StrixNebulosa posted:

- different filament colors need different temperatures.

So I've noticed in a lot of your posts you're printing with white filament. Judging from this post you've probably noticed this by now, but white filament is one of the hardest to print for a given type of plastic. They add titanium dioxide to make it white and that alters the melting characteristics significantly compared to natural or any other color-only additive that I know of. It sucks whenever white is shipped as the sample with new printers because it can fool people new to printing into thinking that the machine is harder to deal with than it might actually be.

If you're having weird issues where the temperature doesn't seem to ever work right, and you're using white filament, try using a different (or no) color and you might have a sudden burst of success!

edit: that said, your low poly models are turning out rad as hell! I'm glad you're having a good time with it. 3D printing is so much fun :)

csammis fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 11, 2023

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Sockser posted:

Wild because my experience with sunlu has been miserable vs Sirayatech or even Elegoo

lol my experience is a mirror image. I went with Sunlu after having nothing but problems with Elegeoo resin. Which is weird bc lots of people have good experiences with it.

I guess it's luck of the draw.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

csammis, most of my prints have been true red! It was my teaching filament and honestly it’s great to hear that white is tempermental. So far it’s been…yeah, fussy lol.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Snackmar posted:

Good to know for future filament :D I was just seeing some tiktok that showed a person throwing something like this into the cardboard core (rather than an outer adapter), and then into the Bambu reuseable spools.

I'll try this first - i don't want to lose the filament I already tore the cardboard off of, heh

Update: It took a while to do them all but this one for the cardboard spools I already mangled, and this one that Sockser suggested for fresh cardboard spools all worked great, and the AMS tower is now humming along nicley and swapping filaments with no issues.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Rad-daddio posted:

I was kicking around the idea of making some big stuff on my FDM printer, but the stuff I want to make will probably need supports and I never really had luck with that.

Are there any one size fits all calibration prints that are good for dialing in support settings across multiple printers? I'd be printing PLA.

I've printed some very very large stuff on FDM printers and have never done anything other than letting the slicer add supports where it thinks it needs them. The new tree supports that both Prusa and Bambu Studio use now are pretty amazing.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Is there a way to adjust the automatic supports? I sliced a print in PrusaSlicer and it complained about some overhangs.

I figured out how to paint the support zones by hand, but the problem was the automatic ones did like almost a support brim around the edge of the print, which was not necessary.

Just like a, skip the first 20 layers deal or something

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Macichne Leainig posted:

Is there a way to adjust the automatic supports? I sliced a print in PrusaSlicer and it complained about some overhangs.

I figured out how to paint the support zones by hand, but the problem was the automatic ones did like almost a support brim around the edge of the print, which was not necessary.

Just like a, skip the first 20 layers deal or something

You can add support blockers to block areas that you don't want supports.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Oh that’s probably easier :doh:

FlashPrint spoiled me by being pretty straightforward. PrusaSlicer seems more powerful in comparison but a bit more of a learning curve

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




There's a tool in the left-side tray with a paintbrush that'll let you just paint support enforcers/blockers at your whims (it is a very good tool, get familiar with it)

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Can you really not just buy the resin tank lid from Elegoo for the Saturn 2?

They have one with the extra tank, but nothing separate, it seems. Really weird.

Might just print a 2 piece cause everything I'm finding online for it is not UV opaque.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

The lack of included vat lids for any resin printer has always baffled me a little bit. At minimum effort, it's like a five-cent vacuum formed piece.

Sovol's really nice aftermarket metal vats that fit the original Photon/Mars/similar machines came with lovely silicone covers for both the top and the bottom, they were really nice. I've always thought that was something that OEMs might pick up on one day, but doesn't seem like any of the usual players ever have.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

You know, I was going to comment on how it would be nice for Bambulabs printers to have multi-object support, so that it would be possible to cancel a specific object... and now they do! :toot:
(X1/C specific for now, apparently.) (They also added experimental first-layer checking for PEI sheets, but I don't think I've ever needed it.)

A summary of the changes of the newest firmware. (X1/X1C Specific. +/- AMS.):
Skipping specific objects/models. (Only works with <64 objects on the plate, no multi-material support.)
Video support on LAN mode, so now I think LAN mode is almost at feature parity with cloud?
A sanity-checking thing to check what spools the AMS can auto-change to if it runs out. (I imagine you still need to lie and tell it that the next spool is totally the same color, still.)
Flow Calibration on the PEI has gone from 'no' to 'you can try'. (But the next feature kinda makes this a bit pointless.)
Big overhaul to auto-calibration, it can now save the flow calibration measurements back to Bambu Studio, as well as run a calibration for every filament in the AMS.
(Also the ability to manage files on the SDcard remotely via Bambu Studio.)

Being able to finally just slap in a smooth plate, auto-run the calibration for a bunch of filaments at once, and then forget about it is a pretty big usability upgrade. That's neat.
I haven't really used it much, but I'll probably do a round and calibrate a bunch of my filaments soon.

(https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/X1-X1C-AMS-firmware-release-history)

SubNat fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Aug 11, 2023

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Macichne Leainig posted:

Is there a way to adjust the automatic supports?
Give "overhang threshold" a try. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698#overhang-threshold

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

periodic WHERE IS MY GODDAMN FIVE EXTRUDER XL, JOSEF??? post


that's some wacky poo poo to print on an FDM

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Dumping some dumb recent functional prints because it's the thing printers are really good at and I like to evangelize it.


12v plug broke and lost the contact tip, spring, and the threaded collar. Stuck a hex bit and a ball point pen spring in it while I was in the field, and then quickly printed out a little collar with a recess that I pressed in. Fixed pretty much forever now.




I actually started selling these a few months ago. Soda/water bottle threads, used to maintain water level for carnivorous plants (or any other plant that likes to be flooded). Sold 8 through etsy so far with no real advertising. Niche thing, but it's pretty cool anyways.


TPU clamp pads, been using the hell out of them since, no problem at all. Jorgensen/Pony doesn't sell replacement pads for the big HD clamps, and nobody seemed to have modeled the big ones yet.


These little rolls of stretch wrap at Home Depot are great but the handles are trash. Don't spin, fall off, etc. Makes it really infuriating. Fixed it by sitting in front of a computer for 30 minutes and now it's never irritating again. Printed a few for my dad too, and a few for myself since I use stretch wrap pretty regularly in the woodshop as well as in the other-shop. It's handy for keeping project related things stuck together for storage.

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StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Sagebrush posted:

that's some wacky poo poo to print on an FDM

If I don’t understand what I should or shouldn’t be printing then I can’t be stopped from printing completely unsuitable designs :v:

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