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My wife has been struggling on hills with the 38T small ring on her bike(not exactly easy for me either), and the cranks we have are compatible with a third ring. So, she finally got fed up enough and demanded we go to the co-op and make it work. So... now I'm halfway through converting my wife and I's bikes to a triple touring crankset from a double. Found some fairly decent Suntour touring 3x FD's for the front, and got a Suntour Mountech long cage RD for the better 3/4's bike And a decent old Shimano touring RD for my bike. I'm now reading online that the original Mountech was hot garbage because of its goofy large pulley wheel. It's slightly gritty but seems decent other than that. Should I just pull it apart and grease it well? Or should I bin it and find something more reliable? Also, what's the best value on a new chain? It's an old 5 speed, but would a 7 speed chain work well? Any recommendations on a chain to go with? I was lucky and my wife's spindle was the perfect length for the extra ring with a good chainline. My bike.. not so much. It's definitely going to be a pain sorting through the co-op bins to find a spindle with more length on the drive side, and a set of 3mm matching chainring nut washers. Wish me luck 
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Aug 10, 2023 06:52
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VelociBacon posted:That's the most insane brake adapter setup I've ever seen. Every part of it is different from industry standard? What are you talking about? This is a bog standard flat-mount setup.
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Aug 10, 2023 07:47
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TobinHatesYou posted:What are you talking about? This is a bog standard flat-mount setup. Is that a roadie thing? I've just never seen it.
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Aug 10, 2023 07:48
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VelociBacon posted:Is that a roadie thing? I've just never seen it. It appears on some XC MTBs and most gravel bikes as well.
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Aug 10, 2023 07:50
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Ah yeah I believe you. Is it like an aero benefit or something over post mount? How would you even loosen those caliper bolts and squeeze the brake to recenter the caliper on the rotor? It looks like on that surly you have to fasten the caliper to the adapter and then the adapter to the frame. Or is the free movement in the adapter->frame interface?
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Aug 10, 2023 08:40
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VelociBacon posted:Ah yeah I believe you. Is it like an aero benefit or something over post mount? How would you even loosen those caliper bolts and squeeze the brake to recenter the caliper on the rotor? It looks like on that surly you have to fasten the caliper to the adapter and then the adapter to the frame. Or is the free movement in the adapter->frame interface? Most FM calipers are natively 140mm rear calipers. The rear adapter is a +20mm. For the rear caliper, alignment is done with the bolts that go through the slotted frame mounts…in this case they are bolted to the adapter. The fork mount differs from the rear mount and requires an adapter for both 140mm and 160mm. The fork mount does not use a bolt-through design, and the adapter plate itself has slotted bores. There are also messed up versions of everything. Some bike brands do use a bolt-through design at the fork, typically configured in a way that a rear caliper sans adapter functions as a 160mm front caliper. Some calipers like a version of Hope’s RX4+ have integral adapters that limit them to single configurations (160 front, 160 rear.) TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Aug 10, 2023 |
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Aug 10, 2023 09:06
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TobinHatesYou posted:Most FM calipers are natively 140mm rear calipers. The rear adapter is a +20mm. For the rear caliper, alignment is done with the bolts that go through the slotted frame mounts…in this case they are bolted to the adapter. I am pleasantly surprised that the insane adapter economy and obtuse spoken-word knowledge of how to put disc brakes on a bicycle is as garbled and poorly agreed upon as it was 20 years ago when I was trying to put the first Shimano disc brakes (the 4 pot XTs with braided cables) on my bike. I find even now that it's almost impossible to find documentation for forks that tells you which brakes mount without adapters etc. You kinda just have to hope you can find someones' post about it or something.
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Aug 10, 2023 09:18
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Any thoughts on carbon road bike frame lifetimes? I've had a Chinese carbon frame since 2012, I've raced it, I've crashed it, dropped the chain etc. All within a few years if buying it. For the last 8 years ir so I've riden it pretty infrequently but it still gets out and it still rides and feels just fine. I am however getting a bit leery of it's age and all of the scrapes, scuffs and scratches it's picked up over the years (like the rub marks on the chainstays from my heels). Honestly considering buying another frame from the same manufacturer and just swapping the parts across...
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Aug 10, 2023 11:23
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kimbo305 posted:I think that’s more than the difference between SRAM and Shimano 11spd cassette widths? And those are compatible enough. The manufacturer can't exactly say that an 11-speed shifter counts as being compatible with their ten-speed group
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Aug 10, 2023 12:29
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SimonSays posted:The manufacturer can't exactly say that an 11-speed shifter counts as being compatible with their ten-speed group I wasn't saying that they would volunteer it, just that it's surprising someone hasn't just verified it experimentally.
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Aug 10, 2023 13:37
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There would be a blank shift in the middle of the 11-speed indexing right? It couldn't be at the start or end of the indexing? Very curious if I could just run an XT or SLX shifter and at $40-50 might give it a try. I wonder if the advent shifter is slow on purpose though. I have a feeling dumping gears as fast as a better shifter lets you could make the advent derailleur jam up.
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Aug 10, 2023 15:24
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Salt Fish posted:There would be a blank shift in the middle of the 11-speed indexing right? It couldn't be at the start or end of the indexing? Very curious if I could just run an XT or SLX shifter and at $40-50 might give it a try. I wonder if the advent shifter is slow on purpose though. I have a feeling dumping gears as fast as a better shifter lets you could make the advent derailleur jam up. You would block off the derailer so it wouldn't move enough for the final click, on one side or the other of its range.
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Aug 10, 2023 16:06
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Salt Fish posted:There would be a blank shift in the middle of the 11-speed indexing right? It couldn't be at the start or end of the indexing? When I've messed with this, the indexing would hold out through the end of the shift range. I think the stacked error was over 1mm, much more than the calculated error here. But the cog pitch for 10spd is almost 4mm, so it's still at worst only 25% extra to the next shift. It'd have to be an extra 50% to attempt auto shifting to the next gear, i think. That said, in that experiment, the shifting was not very good. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Aug 10, 2023 |
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Aug 10, 2023 16:09
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some_admin posted:Hey I have couple of stupid bike questions, I got a hold of a 36v 250watt 16” hub motor (Dapu) & battery/etc, from a cargo bike. Dahon should be pretty cheap on the used market. The bike geometry really isn't that bad once you get used to it. It is possible to take the hub out and put it in a different size wheel, but at that rate you'd likely be better off buying a motor built for the correct wheel size. The 16" motor may not be geared well for running with a much larger rim.
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Aug 11, 2023 07:00
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Hi folks. Lately it's become more difficult to change gears on my forward gears, to go from easiest to next one up. The chain shifts over okay, but then seems to have more and more difficulty engaging with the new gear, and twice it's come off altogether. What do? I assume I've worn out one or more of my parts and need new ones. The chain itself is pretty new, though.
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Aug 11, 2023 11:02
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Hyperlynx posted:Hi folks. Post a photo of your forward gears so we can see their condition. As they wear out, they make a clear change in tooth profile It’s pretty likely that you just need to make some combination of simple adjustments to the front derailleur though—in/out limit stops or cable tension being the primaries. Of those, cable tension is the most likely to need adjustment as it stretches a little over time. I think that the guy below will recommend setting the limits first, but I say that if the shifting had been working fine and has just recently degraded a little, give a little tweak anticlockwise to the barrel adjuster at the shifter and see if that solves everything. A problem that would be slightly trickier is if the derailleur cage became bent with an impact or was yanked out of true by the chain. Here is a decent set of videos going over adjustment and troubleshooting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNG7g83lI-s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcc5-ry4fA0 e: There’s also some possibility that the shifter itself, on the bars, is acting up. Shimanos of a certain age are notorious for having their grease gum up, which manifests as a lever that will not click into a higher gear, because the pawl inside is too gummed up for the spring to move it. If you have three forward gears and only have trouble from small to medium, though, that may not be your problem. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 11:13 on Aug 11, 2023 |
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Aug 11, 2023 11:10
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Ha, I swear there's only like ten people on this website. Hello again Platystemon! Thanks for the advice. I'll post a photo of the gears when I can
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Aug 12, 2023 02:31
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Berm Peak made a video about swapping out a bunch of components on the Ozark Trail Ridge to make it a better bike. I don’t care about that particularly much, but I’m linking this timestamped video as a good example of what a tire “burping” looks like on rims that weren’t designed to work without tubes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_nq5RsJSg8&t=643s
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Aug 13, 2023 08:54
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Can I put a wheel with a rear dropout width of 130mm into my steel frame bike with a 135mm RDO and if so, is there anything special I need to buy/do?
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Aug 13, 2023 11:44
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You can probably just tighten the wheel in and the frame will squeeze the 2,5 mm on both sides. The wheel may or may not sit exactly in the center. Otherwise with quick release you need a longer axle and some spacers on it and with solid axle just some spacers.
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Aug 13, 2023 12:16
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Tightening down the axle and forcing the dropouts closer together can subtly tweak the angle at which the derailleur hangs and cause mysterious shifting issues. You might try it and see if you get away with it, but if you have difficulty shifting, that would be why. Otherwise, get a 5mm axle spacer and put it on the left side of the bike. The bike is rideable like that, but if you’re doing this in the long term, you should redish the wheel to center it in its new configuration. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Aug 13, 2023 |
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Aug 13, 2023 12:25
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8 Ball posted:Can I put a wheel with a rear dropout width of 130mm into my steel frame bike with a 135mm RDO and if so, is there anything special I need to buy/do? If it’s disc brake, the rotor wouldn’t line up. But I don’t know of any 130mm disc hubs. Which bike uses a 135mm caliper hub?
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Aug 13, 2023 14:34
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kimbo305 posted:But I don’t know of any 130mm disc hubs. Specialized SCS has entered the chat.
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Aug 13, 2023 21:10
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TobinHatesYou posted:Specialized SCS has entered the chat. Wasn't that 132?
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Aug 13, 2023 22:38
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kimbo305 posted:Wasn't that 132? 130mm
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Aug 13, 2023 22:39
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So, I watched the derailleur videos, and was honestly kind of overwhelmed. I decided to just take my bike in to my local shop and pay someone to do the diagnosis and fixing for me. I just rode there to discover they're closed on Mondays. Anyway, back home, before putting my bike away I thought "hey why not flip it over and see what the derailleur actually does when I shift gear?" and sure enough it wasn't really moving far enough across. So I tried tightening the cable and voila, problem solved! 
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Aug 14, 2023 00:34
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Hyperlynx posted:So, I watched the derailleur videos, and was honestly kind of overwhelmed. I decided to just take my bike in to my local shop and pay someone to do the diagnosis and fixing for me. I just rode there to discover they're closed on Mondays. Nice work! It gets easier and more intuitive the more you work on them. I just finished successfully adding a third chainring to my wife and I's bikes, and it sure is nice having a granny gear on tap  . Now we're 48/38/28 Biopace rings up front and 14-28 in the back. I think I'll end up leaving it there.. but maybe I'll think about doing a 5 speed->7 speed cold set and conversion down the line if we want the extra range and inner gears. The rabbit hole of mods never ends 
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Aug 14, 2023 01:17
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Ha, the cable snapped on the way to work this morning. Oh well, time for another trip to the bike shop after all!
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Aug 15, 2023 09:23
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Well that would be why it was losing tension. Replacing cables is one of the easiest maintenance tasks, but you have to go to the shop to get a new cable, and it’s so quick that they will probably do it while you wait.
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Aug 15, 2023 09:32
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What do people think about chainstay repairs on steel frames? My Xtracycle Free Radical is cracked on both sides past the dropouts (front of the bike is to the left, the crack is on the cargo extension part of the chainstay). I got a quote locally for $160 which seems fair but not sure how wise it would be to repair vs replace, especially with a toddler on the back. 
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Aug 17, 2023 19:57
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Part of the realness of steel is that you can weld that poo poo right back up.
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Aug 17, 2023 20:01
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Coxswain Balls posted:Part of the realness of steel is that you can weld that poo poo right back up. You wouldn't be worried about it breaking again? The guy who offered to weld it said he was worried it would fail again, he suggested possibly tacking a rod along the tube either side but warned that it would weaken the tube in other spots. I've seen other people suggest a brazed sleeve or replacing the entire tube?
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Aug 17, 2023 20:06
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I think the Free Radical is discontinued so even if a proper repair cost a lot I get the feeling it'd be cheaper than a whole new cargo bike. It might be worth getting in touch with dedicated frame builders who are more knowledgeable with bicycle tubing about how to do a permanent fix.
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Aug 17, 2023 20:32
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My instinct would be to go with the brazed/welded sleeve, but absolutely, steel can be welded as strong or stronger than the original piece. I agree, call a frame builder and see if they'll fix it.
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Aug 17, 2023 20:38
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I have a fat bike with a 2x8 drivetrain, and it shifts and pedals fine on the stand, but it constantly skips or slips when you actually ride it in the smaller chainring. It also does not stay in the second smallest rear gear when the front is on the larger ring. New cassette, new chain, new derailleur hanger. Any pointers?
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Aug 18, 2023 17:48
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E:nvm
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Aug 18, 2023 20:18
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Is this a common gadget? A dummy barb with a hole/inset for running a shift cable? I wanna get a couple to run hoses through my frame. I’ve seen guide barb in one thread, but that just pulls up Diablo strat videos
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Aug 18, 2023 22:35
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That looks large in diameter and might be a pain to make turns. I don't see how that helps much since you have to just route that instead of a cable? If you're replacing an existing cable then just tape them together using the old to route the new. I think park tool makes some magnet thing to fish cables through. I brute forced it on my build and it sucks for bigger stuff like brake lines.
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Aug 19, 2023 00:02
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I didn't have problems with it snagging or being too stiff in the frame I'm looking to redo. It comes factory on Campy's hydraulic hoses so they can ship with fluid inside. I only need to run from side of head tube down to the bottom bracket junction, then through the chainstay. I imagine it's a different story if you're doing handlebar or headset. >I don't see how that helps much since you have to just route that instead of a cable? You send the cable in first, which is pointier for exiting places, and also has a more echolocatable click as you push it through the frame. Once it comes out a port, it takes 0 effort to pull the hose out, instead of using a pick or one of those grabber things to line it up with the exit. e: hunh, in the replacement hose part, they give it to you in a separate baggy https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/JhsAAOSwzcBkZkZe/s-l1600.png I wonder if it has a part number. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Aug 19, 2023 |
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Aug 19, 2023 06:34
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I have what I believe is a 2015 Felt F85X CX bike I use for exercise , commuting , whatever really except winter . Felt seems to have sort of imploded since it was released , and I know there’s a possible ancient recall on the frame I am probably out of luck on. How do I begin to ID the components for maintenance ? Everything seems solid so far save for there’s a creaking when twisting and pedaling hard like out of saddle , and the brakes are wearing . Those might be BB-5s . Is there a good way to be able to take the thing apart and see what I’m working with, without throwing the drivetrain out of alignment ? I haven’t done much maintenance to it other than replacing a chain , carb cleaning the grease out of the gear set , and lubing the chain back up .
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Aug 19, 2023 17:38
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