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Bob Mundon posted:Anyone have any experience cutting down track saw guide rails? Ordered a 2nd 55" track and plan to cut it down to about 36" as a general purpose track for most cuts, and then put the remaining 19" onto my existing 55" to give a little extra breathing room for 4' plywood (55" track is juuuuuust too short), and be able to break down a 5x5 sheet if I ever use those. On the rare occasion I need to do a full rip on an 8' sheet I can just connect them all. My first thought is a miter saw, but that depends on the exact shape. If it's a ~6 inch wide, 1/4" tall thin aluminum extrusion, you probably won't be able to put the broad side against the fence. It's whatever for wood, but a blade that isn't specifically made for aluminum has a tendency to grab, and I'd be leery of the direction of cutting forces on such a thin workpiece. If it were me, I'd probably cut it using a hacksaw in a miter box, then clean it up with a file.
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Aug 15, 2023 00:54
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| # ? May 19, 2024 21:09 |
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FLAME AXE!!!
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Aug 15, 2023 00:54
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Or, you know, a little coping saw with a bi-metal blade would take like 30 seconds and require like 0 cleanup
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Aug 15, 2023 00:55
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HolHorsejob posted:My first thought is a miter saw, but that depends on the exact shape. If it's a ~6 inch wide, 1/4" tall thin aluminum extrusion, you probably won't be able to put the broad side against the fence. It's whatever for wood, but a blade that isn't specifically made for aluminum has a tendency to grab, and I'd be leery of the direction of cutting forces on such a thin workpiece. Miter saws come with hold-down clamps. I've cut down a track on my 10" slider without a problem.
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Aug 15, 2023 01:01
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The thought did occur to me to use the track saw lol, but it just seems wrong lol. Would rather not buy a new blade just for this one specific task (either to do it, or the risk of ruining the existing blade). No miter saw unfortunately, but would a bimetal blade on a jigsaw probably do the trick? Or if a super high tooth blade isn't absolutely required could always use my circ saw as well and not risk the new track saw. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 15, 2023 |
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Aug 15, 2023 02:26
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Use a drat hacksaw.
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Aug 15, 2023 02:52
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hand tools kick rear end for realsies
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Aug 15, 2023 02:55
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Keep in mind I'm trying to keep the cut somewhat straight and clean so I can connect tracks later and still have a smooth transition. Or else I'd of gone sawzall on it already.
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Aug 15, 2023 03:13
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Bob Mundon posted:Keep in mind I'm trying to keep the cut somewhat straight and clean so I can connect tracks later and still have a smooth transition. Or else I'd of gone sawzall on it already. That's fine and completely achievable with hand tools. Two good ones have been suggested already.
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Aug 15, 2023 03:20
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Sounds like an excuse to make a shooting board (then a shooting sander).
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Aug 15, 2023 03:33
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A jigsaw or sawzall would kick all over the place and mangle the poo poo out if it. Was gonna say a miter saw and clamps, but if you don't have that, a hacksaw and some way of cleaning/squaring up the end.
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Aug 15, 2023 04:29
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HolHorsejob posted:A jigsaw or sawzall would kick all over the place and mangle the poo poo out if it. Was gonna say a miter saw and clamps, but if you don't have that, a hacksaw and some way of cleaning/squaring up the end. Good to know, have a file I can square it up with.
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Aug 15, 2023 11:57
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deimos posted:Use a drat hacksaw.
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Aug 15, 2023 12:38
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What kind of lasers do you have access to?
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Aug 15, 2023 13:43
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or maybe a waterjet
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Aug 15, 2023 13:53
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CNC plasma cutter, obv.
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Aug 15, 2023 14:13
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Hack saw with mitre box?
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Aug 15, 2023 14:22
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HolHorsejob posted:A jigsaw or sawzall would kick all over the place and mangle the poo poo out if it. Was gonna say a miter saw and clamps, but if you don't have that, a hacksaw and some way of cleaning/squaring up the end. Sawzall probably would, jigsaw will cut clean and straight all drat day. Clamp a fence to ya fence and get jiggy with it.
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Aug 15, 2023 15:26
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Any recs for a good flush trim router bit, ideally something with a 1/2" shank that won't have a violent reaction to changing grain directions? A spiral up & down compression one seems to be the way to go, but I'm not really familiar with brands besides Whiteside which is... uh, really pricey for a hobbysit.
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Aug 16, 2023 00:38
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Trabant posted:Any recs for a good flush trim router bit, ideally something with a 1/2" shank that won't have a violent reaction to changing grain directions? A spiral up & down compression one seems to be the way to go, but I'm not really familiar with brands besides Whiteside which is... uh, really pricey for a hobbysit. I haven't used their flush trim bit a ton, but I've had decent luck with Spetool spiral bits. Recently got their 1/2" spiral flush trim bit and liked how it was put together. Double bearing and uses a lock nut instead of a hex screw was good to see, worked good for what I needed and as much as I like my Whiteside bits no way in hell I can justify one of their spirals at this point in my woodworking journey. *edit* this guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDCMW9X2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Also, I actually did get one Whiteside spiral, the 1/4" spiral with a 1/2" shank is exactly what I was looking for. Significantly cheaper than their other ones too. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 16, 2023 |
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Aug 16, 2023 01:48
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Thanks for the suggestion! I came across the SpeTools brand on Amazon but had no clue whether they were legit in any way at all. I know it's better to buy once and very once, but man... It's a lot easier to consider a sub-$100 bit for my idiot projects 
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Aug 16, 2023 07:01
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Does anyone have a DeWalt 618 router with a plunge base? I got the kit in the refurb deal from CPO earlier this week, and everything seems rock solid in comparison to my Hitachi kit.....except for the rubber sleeve around the plunge pillar with spring. Every time I plunge the router it pulls down from the top instead of expanding. Actually only does this with the dust collection adapter installed, and not with the cap on it. Curious if anyone has one and can take a picture of the top of it without the cap or dust collection adapter so I can see how it should be retained. I don't see anything that looks to be missing, but no way that's normal either.
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Aug 16, 2023 23:29
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I have a 1.5 ton powerzone floor jack. It will hold pressure if I manually lift up the saddle, but the pumping piston stopped extending so I can't actually pump it to lift anything. Is this repairable or do I just need to get a new one?
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Aug 17, 2023 23:55
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brugroffil posted:I have a 1.5 ton powerzone floor jack. It will hold pressure if I manually lift up the saddle, but the pumping piston stopped extending so I can't actually pump it to lift anything. Is this repairable or do I just need to get a new one? I don't know that jack in particular, but it sounds like there is air in it/lost some hydro fluid. On the usual suspects there are two big flat headed caps on the body of the jack back towards the handle facing straight up. Under the tin cover on a lot of them. The one on the left (if you are standing behind the jack the way you would operate it) is probably the one you are after. They might even be labeled, and if so you don't want the safety/emergency one. Lower the jack and leave it unscrewed/lowering position. Open and add hydro fluid to that port. Pump it - with it still unscrewed. If the level drop add more and repeat until it doesn't drop. Put the port cover back on, screw the handle back in and see if it works. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Aug 18, 2023 |
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Aug 18, 2023 00:08
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brugroffil posted:I have a 1.5 ton powerzone floor jack. It will hold pressure if I manually lift up the saddle, but the pumping piston stopped extending so I can't actually pump it to lift anything. Is this repairable or do I just need to get a new one? The pumping piston is sticky, and the spring is not enough to overcome the grime and dirt. It is very easy to fix, just 2 screws on mine. The pistons just pop out by pulling, and you can clean it all up with some paper towels and brake cleaner. This is assuming they're just dirty. There could also be rust or damaged o-rings, so check for that. On mine, I did not need to top off the fluid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvFUREOoe6U
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Aug 18, 2023 00:33
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ryanrs posted:The pumping piston is sticky, and the spring is not enough to overcome the grime and dirt. It is very easy to fix, just 2 screws on mine. The pistons just pop out by pulling, and you can clean it all up with some paper towels and brake cleaner. This is assuming they're just dirty. There could also be rust or damaged o-rings, so check for that. On mine, I did not need to top off the fluid. Working perfectly now, thanks!
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Aug 18, 2023 02:57
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Got my old craftsman saw running. After a few weeks of delays, restoration work continues. I finished all the electrical work on the motor last week, moved the pulley, and made a mounting adapter because I'm a space cadet that bought a flange-mount motor. I knocked off dings on mating surfaces and the miter slots, and took a first pass at de-rusting the iron and the fasteners. (ugghh broken video embed) https://imgur.com/aJwQi6i It's not ready, maybe halfway there though. I left off tonight in the middle of attaching a new fence (Delta T3). Next up: -Affix motor more securely, shim it to align pulleys better -Make belt guard and new housing for capacitors, route wiring, attach power button to front surface. -Finish attaching fence, tune it -Probably re-align the blade, the trunnion got tweaked around a fair bit as I worked on the motor -Replace the casters, or maybe just replace them with feet, then put the saw on its stand - Make all the standard jigs (crosscut sled, miter sled, etc.) Questions: - Does this saw even need a 2-belt setup? The original motor was 3/4 hp, new one is 1.5 hp. I want to replace the belt with a link belt, but I'd rather not shell out double the cost if it doesn't bring tangible benefit. - Thinking of making a zero-clearance insert with a splitter. The factory insert is only 1/8" thick, a bit on the thin side really. Can I just make it out of 1/4" stock and thin it out at the mount points so it sits at the appropriate depth? HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Aug 21, 2023 |
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Aug 21, 2023 06:55
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Bob Mundon posted:Anyone have any experience cutting down track saw guide rails? Ordered a 2nd 55" track and plan to cut it down to about 36" as a general purpose track for most cuts, and then put the remaining 19" onto my existing 55" to give a little extra breathing room for 4' plywood (55" track is juuuuuust too short), and be able to break down a 5x5 sheet if I ever use those. On the rare occasion I need to do a full rip on an 8' sheet I can just connect them all. Cut it on a miter saw. Clamp a sacrificial piece of wood (using the miter saw's clamp) on top of the thin parts of the track (another piece underneath to sandwich the track wouldn't hurt). The wood will support the thin aluminum as it's being cut. A regular wood blade would be fine.
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Aug 22, 2023 01:42
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Are power edgers worth it? I already in Dewalt and Ego batteries so I just need bare tool. It’s another thing to store in the garage. I have large patio and a bunch flower beds that need attention. If I already owned a multi attachment tool I would just buy one but I just have a “normal” Dewalt 20v string trimmer.
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Aug 22, 2023 15:11
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Calidus posted:Are power edgers worth it? I already in Dewalt and Ego batteries so I just need bare tool. It’s another thing to store in the garage. I have large patio and a bunch flower beds that need attention. If I already owned a multi attachment tool I would just buy one but I just have a “normal” Dewalt 20v string trimmer. Tip the string trimmer 90 degrees so the string is spinning in the vertical plane. That's your edger. Watch the next time you see someone getting their lawn cut by professionals.
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Aug 22, 2023 15:32
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Motronic posted:Tip the string trimmer 90 degrees so the string is spinning in the vertical plane. That's your edger. Can second this from my days of doing landscaping. Make sure you have extra line.
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Aug 22, 2023 15:41
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I feel like the edger attachment on my stihl combination thing does a slightly better and easier job than just the string trimmer and it is easier to use in some tights area like the little strip of grass between my driveway and fence, but I don’t think I would buy a whole separate edger if there wasn’t an attachment for my system. E: it also definitely saves line and I HATE having to stop in the middle of edging and reload on line or open the head up to let a broken off line out.
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Aug 22, 2023 16:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I feel like the edger attachment on my stihl combination thing does a slightly better and easier job than just the string trimmer and it is easier to use in some tights area like the little strip of grass between my driveway and fence, but I don’t think I would buy a whole separate edger if there wasn’t an attachment for my system. That's entirely technique related. The only times you'll see a professional crew with an edger is for remedial jobs/first time out to a place that hasn't been edged in long enough that there's literally soil buildup on the sidewalks.
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Aug 22, 2023 16:58
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Calidus posted:Are power edgers worth it? I already in Dewalt and Ego batteries so I just need bare tool. It’s another thing to store in the garage. I have large patio and a bunch flower beds that need attention. If I already owned a multi attachment tool I would just buy one but I just have a “normal” Dewalt 20v string trimmer. I have a gas powered one (https://www.yardforceusa.com/yf7302-gas-edgar) I bought roughly a decade ago and it's pretty nice to have. Much easier to use than a weed eater and does a better job but it's another thing to store and maintain which isn't ideal. I also only use it 3-4 times per year so it would be hard to justify but I'll use it until it dies.
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Aug 22, 2023 17:15
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wandler20 posted:I have a gas powered one (https://www.yardforceusa.com/yf7302-gas-edgar) I bought roughly a decade ago and it's pretty nice to have. Much easier to use than a weed eater and does a better job but it's another thing to store and maintain which isn't ideal. I also only use it 3-4 times per year so it would be hard to justify but I'll use it until it dies. I like how the URL names it the "Gas Edgar". Edgar is just lactose intolerant, OK?
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Aug 22, 2023 17:24
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Literally A Person posted:Can second this from my days of doing landscaping. Make sure you have extra line. Did this my whole life, but honestly messing around with an edger once I want one as soon as I can find an ego one at a decent price. You definitely can use a string trimmer, but along with that eating up line it's way easier to make a really nice clean edge with an edger. Skill issue yes, but I'd rather just go easy mode on that one. Especially since it saves me restringing the trimmer more than I need to. I'd absolutely recommend it, but it's definitely not mandatory.
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Aug 22, 2023 20:06
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This seems like a good "ask around to borrow one" kind of tool situation. I have a small chipper / shredder and I loan it out to all the neighbors around me, works for me since it gets it out and running more than the 1-2x times a year I use it and gives me a reason to keep it maintained and not sitting around with old gas in it etc. I've already dedicated storage space to it. My neighbors have loaned me their snowblower and a tiller here and there in trade.
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Aug 22, 2023 20:10
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Hmm, my homemade power supply seems capable of insta-killing Milwaukee M18 6.0 and 8.0 batteries, leaving them with 1 blinking red bar. My CP 3.0 works fine. My power supply is drawing power from the battery, not charging it. I'm pretty sure I'm not over-discharging the cells. It seems more related to moderate-current draw. I was pulling about 100 W at 75% SoC when it killed my 8.0 battery. Plugging the blinking battery into a charger briefly (only 1-2 seconds) fixes it. I'm quite sure that I'm not physically damaging the cells, since I'm only pulling 5 A or so, and not running the batteries flat. I know Milwaukee sells 'dumb' M18 tools that only connect to the raw battery +/- and not the communication lines. But they tend to be low-power tools like LED flashlights. One possible theory is that the battery is mad that I'm drawing moderate current without talking to its serial port and asking permission? Lol. e: 8.0 battery does not get mad when discharged at 20 W. 8.0 discharged all the way to 3.10 V/cell (empty threshold according to onboard BMS, 1 blinking bar). Now I'm discharging my 6.0 at 40 W and it's happy so far. I know my 12.0 chainsaw battery gives no fucks because I've paralleled it with a dead car battery and it didn't seem to mind (with a 40 A fuse for safety). But that battery is a few years old. The 8 and 6 that are giving me grief are newer, and maybe have newer guts? I'm pretty annoyed the M18 comm protocol hasn't been reverse engineered yet. It's 2000 baud serial with no encryption, how hard can it be? The batteries have a TI BQ76925 battery monitor controlled by a MSP430 microcontroller. Teardown with partial schematics. The M18 battery boards seem like a TI reference design with minimal changes. Just discharged the 8.0 at 75W, ramping up to 200 W. This is enough power for my use case (50W VHF ham radios draw 100-200W). The battery threw an error at 220 W, at very roughly 50% SoC. I should take one of my batteries apart to see if it is sensing current or just cell voltage. The M18 battery LEDs seem to be based on cell voltage, not charge integration. latest: The 6.0 and 8.0 batteries throw an error for loads greater than about 220W or 11A. It's probably based on current, not power. Above this, and the battery quickly throws an error (couple seconds or less delay). The BMS can't electronically disconnect the battery, so these errors are advisory only. Battery error is based on current, with a trip point of 11-12 A. My power supply doesn't have precision current metering on the input, so I don't have precise numbers. I wonder if this 11 A trip was introduced to new batteries JUST because people where converting Power Wheels to use M18s without any over-discharge protection and killing the batteries? So flip on the blinking light if there's high power draw without serial comms and scare the owner from trashing their $200 battery. Internal cell specs for every M18 battery: 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Aug 30, 2023 |
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Aug 28, 2023 22:26
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Consider: "Unbrako My Heart", by Toni Hexton
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Aug 30, 2023 20:58
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| # ? May 19, 2024 21:09 |
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My Milwaukee M18 charger gave up the ghost. Where's the best place to get a deal on a new charger + battery?
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Sep 5, 2023 17:05
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