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Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

~Coxy posted:

Does anyone know what the BIOS_PH header is for?
(Is it, by any chance, a way to reflash the BIOS without desoldering it?)

It is, but you need a reprogrammer like the CH341A to do it. And that can reprogram bios chips without needing to desolder them anyway (by using a clamp that clamps onto the bios chip's pins). Using the header is probably less fiddly than using the clamp, but I don't know where you get the adapter for that. Here's a video on how to do it with the clamp (feel free to skip the guy complaining about people using the product wrong and leaving bad reviews on amazon):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8-Sh7DjiXw

edit: Found the cable for the asrock header on ali express, but it costs $12 in addition to the cost of the reprogrammer: https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2255801109798015.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Aug 14, 2023

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~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD
Thanks!

kedo
Nov 27, 2007

grack posted:

PNY is fine for a GPU maker. Their coolers are good this generation.

This is the CPU cooler to go for: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZZ8PQQ9/?coliid=IZZO52T8SY7F0&colid=6JAB2HQIUOW4
It's more capable than the DH-15, which is an older design.

Thanks to you and everyone else who commented, all the input is much appreciated!

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo
The 7800X3D is down to $389 on Newegg. That’s just $40 more than the 7700X. Usually retails for $450. Wish I waited three weeks!

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Thermal testing your PC. What are the recommendations? Do I run Prime95 blend/small/mystery? Is there something better to use?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



c355n4 posted:

Thermal testing your PC. What are the recommendations? Do I run Prime95 blend/small/mystery? Is there something better to use?

OCCT, default settings on cpu.

I use that for 10 minutes to test overclocks. It seems to default to a half hour but in my experience if it makes it a 10 minutes it’s going to make it a half hour.

But that puts out more heat than any computer game.

Diablo 4 puts out a lot of heat for a game if you own it and want to test a gaming scenario.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Hyperlynx posted:

Whew! Thanks.

I don't know whether my CPU needs it, but it couldn't hurt.
My mobo has 8+4 and I just use 2x 8 pin cables since the pinouts are the same for each half of the 8 pin.

Just make sure you're not using a PCIe cable which has the same plug but has different pinouts.

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??

c355n4 posted:

Thermal testing your PC. What are the recommendations? Do I run Prime95 blend/small/mystery? Is there something better to use?

Prime95 is "what's the absolute worst case thing I can do to my CPU cooler", which isn't always what you want to be testing. If you want "how does the case/system as a whole behave under real loads" then just fire up your favorite game for an hour or something.

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh
Looking for recommendations for a case for my dad. He's quite keen to keep a DVD drive bay, which changes options. There are also 3 internal HDDs in the machine, and the motherboard is ATX. Suggestions?

I'd love him to kiss the internal DVD drive goodbye, if he'd go for that I'd go for the be quiet! Pure Base 500DX or the Lian Li Lancool 216. He likes blue lights, does the Lancool allow the RGB effect set to blue?

I really enjoyed building my machine in the 500DX case.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Josh Lyman posted:

My mobo has 8+4 and I just use 2x 8 pin cables since the pinouts are the same for each half of the 8 pin.

Just make sure you're not using a PCIe cable which has the same plug but has different pinouts.

It turned out that one of the 8 pin cables labelled "CPU" was indeed two 4-pin ones put together, just as the good doctor said.

New system started up just fine once I remembered to put the RAM in it and it's been smooth sailing! :D

rabidcowfromhell
Dec 27, 2004


Remember Iowa
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($335.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 ZERO DARK 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.79 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: *PNY XLR8 Gaming VERTO EPIC-X RGB GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card ($789.99 @ B&H)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1784.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-14 18:49 EDT-0400

Probably gonna pull the trigger on this build later this week. Would it be worth it to upgrade the CPU to the 7800X3D since it's on sale for $399 and only a bit more expensive than the 7700x? Build is primarily for gaming, currently at 1080p but might upgrade to 1440 eventually. Thanks!

rabidcowfromhell fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Aug 14, 2023

The Joe Man
Apr 7, 2007

Flirting With Apathetic Waitresses Since 1984

WattsvilleBlues posted:

Looking for recommendations for a case for my dad. He's quite keen to keep a DVD drive bay, which changes options. There are also 3 internal HDDs in the machine, and the motherboard is ATX. Suggestions?

I'd love him to kiss the internal DVD drive goodbye, if he'd go for that I'd go for the be quiet! Pure Base 500DX or the Lian Li Lancool 216. He likes blue lights, does the Lancool allow the RGB effect set to blue?

I really enjoyed building my machine in the 500DX case.
Doesn't have the newer USB-C port on the front hub but it's a joy to work in and I just upgraded everything inside of mine with zero issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Define-ATX-Performance/dp/B00AZQTZFU?th=1


Also I will never remove my optical drive, your dad's right.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

rabidcowfromhell posted:



Probably gonna pull the trigger on this build later this week. Would it be worth it to upgrade the CPU to the 7800X3D since it's on sale for $399 and only a bit more expensive than the 7700x? Build is primarily for gaming, currently at 1080p but might upgrade to 1440 eventually. Thanks!

IMO I would if it's a small bump in price.

Digital Jedi
May 28, 2007

Fallen Rib
Looking to upgrade my GeForce 1080 Ti.

What's the current hottest in GPUs?
Budget is up to $1K

Playing BG3, Cities Skylines, CSGO, LoL, GTAV

Current system is around 5 years old
Looking to update my GPU from my PC I built 5ish years ago.
Mainly looking at playing BG3 right now but eventually Cities Skylines 2

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($244.41 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($989.60 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($48.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA SC2 GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($130.06 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell AW3418DW 34.1" 3440 x 1440 120 Hz Curved Monitor
Total: $1603.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-15 11:30 EDT-0400

Digital Jedi fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Aug 15, 2023

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007


:captainpop:

In all seriousness I am kinda leaning toward you just upgrading the GPU vs a completely new build.

That CPU is a bit long in the tooth but it’s not the worst thing ever.

I dunno.

Digital Jedi
May 28, 2007

Fallen Rib
Well, I guess I could upgrade that too. And or just rebuild the whole thing now. it is 5 years old but I really haven't had much of a performance issue i've noticed.

I will have to think about this

thanks

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





Digital Jedi posted:

What's the current hottest in GPUs?
Budget is up to $1K

The hottest of the hot in GPUs is the 4090, but those are $1600+ or $kidney so in your pricerange you're better off looking for a good deal on a 7900XTX (which MSRP for $1k but can be found closer to $900ish)

MarcusSA posted:

That CPU is a bit long in the tooth but it’s not the worst thing ever.

I dunno.

I still use an 8700k and there's still plenty of juice left in the squeeze, though it's definitely on the trailing edge these days - but so long as you're not trying to push 300+ fps in competitive online games it's solid enough

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Digital Jedi posted:

Well, I guess I could upgrade that too. And or just rebuild the whole thing now. it is 5 years old but I really haven't had much of a performance issue i've noticed.

I will have to think about this

thanks
I played quite a bit of Diablo 4 with someone who has a 1080 Ti and 1440p ultrawide like you and presumably has similar aged other components. He said that the 1080 Ti was "good enough".

None of the games you're currently playing, including BG3, are too much for your system to handle. I can't imagine Cities Skylines 2 will be very demanding, but since the release date is in 6 weeks, it might be worth waiting.

That said, your cheapest upgrade path to doubling your FPS would be to get a 4070 (assuming you're not CPU-bound). Amex has an offer for $120 off $599 from Dell right now, which would bring a 4070 down to $480 which is a solid price: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3484126&pagenumber=3638&perpage=40#post533851844. You could then upgrade the non-GPU components at your leisure.

However, if you want a new computer that will last 5 years without any upgrades, which it feels like you kinda want to do, you could either build a 7700X+4070 system for $1500 or a 7800X3D+7900XT system for $2000.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Josh Lyman posted:

I played quite a bit of Diablo 4 with someone who has a 1080 Ti and 1440p ultrawide like you and presumably has similar aged other components. He said that the 1080 Ti was "good enough".

None of the games you're currently playing, including BG3, are too much for your system to handle. I can't imagine Cities Skylines 2 will be very demanding, but since the release date is in 6 weeks, it might be worth waiting.

That said, your cheapest upgrade path to doubling your FPS would be to get a 4070 (assuming you're not CPU-bound). Amex has an offer for $120 off $599 from Dell right now, which would bring a 4070 down to $480 which is a solid price: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3484126&pagenumber=3638&perpage=40#post533851844. You could then upgrade the non-GPU components at your leisure.

However, if you want a new computer that will last 5 years without any upgrades, which it feels like you kinda want to do, you could either build a 7700X+4070 system for $1500 or a 7800X3D+7900XT system for $2000.

This is kinda what I was thinking.

Tbh if dude buys the new GPU and it doesn’t do what he is looking for then it’s already one solid part down and the rest of the system could be built around it.

A 4070 for that price is really good.

JustJeff88
Jan 15, 2008

I AM
CONSISTENTLY
ANNOYING
...
JUST TERRIBLE


THIS BADGE OF SHAME IS WORTH 0.45 DOUBLE DRAGON ADVANCES

:dogout:
of SA-Mart forever
Is this the place to ask for advice about a near-total rebuild? I have a desktop that was put together from a collection of (then) very good parts in the spring of 2017. It's been absolutely rock-solid ever since, but it's showing its age and I've decided to replace just about everything but a few drives and the power supply. I just wanted to make sure that this is the right place for that kind of discussion before I post paragraphs of text.

I will say quickly that I am looking at a 4060 ti as I think that that is an excellent cost/performance ratio.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

This is the right place. Don't decide on the GPU in a vacuum. Come up with a budget for the entire build and then decide how that budget should be allocated. I recommend following the post format in the OP, and also sharing what your current system's specs are which can help us decide how much of an upgrade the new components would be.

Digital Jedi
May 28, 2007

Fallen Rib
Thanks for the responses. I'll be back later toward the end of the year. Going to wait for all the holiday sales to hit and start a new build from there

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh

The Joe Man posted:

Doesn't have the newer USB-C port on the front hub but it's a joy to work in and I just upgraded everything inside of mine with zero issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Define-ATX-Performance/dp/B00AZQTZFU?th=1


Also I will never remove my optical drive, your dad's right.

Hahahaha, thanks for the suggestion :) His current case is a Fractal Define R4, which is very similar to the one you posted and to me looks quite dated now.

I think I could convince my dad to consider ditching the DVD bay so long as he can still have space for his extra HDDs. Do most mesh cases still have space for 3 HDDs?

JustJeff88
Jan 15, 2008

I AM
CONSISTENTLY
ANNOYING
...
JUST TERRIBLE


THIS BADGE OF SHAME IS WORTH 0.45 DOUBLE DRAGON ADVANCES

:dogout:
of SA-Mart forever

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

This is the right place. Don't decide on the GPU in a vacuum. Come up with a budget for the entire build and then decide how that budget should be allocated. I recommend following the post format in the OP, and also sharing what your current system's specs are which can help us decide how much of an upgrade the new components would be.

Thank you. I actually have a whole plan.

So, back in March/April 2017 I bought a set of parts and had them put into a working rig by a professional, which is what I plan to do this time as well. MSI Z170A board/i5 6600/2x8 DDR4 ram/1070 GPU/500gb ssd & 1tb HDD. This system has been incredibly stable for me for 6+ years, but it's time to basically rebuild. Originally I was going to only upgrade the RAM, GPU and hard drive as those are things that I can install myself, but my processer is so dated that I just can't ignore it. Sadly, this means a new board and a new heatsink, so I'm already over budget. This is what I had in mind:

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCF57FL5?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
Heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Mainboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BP94WCFL/?coliid=I36RJIC3NL2UT8&colid=3B3XCE7H24L1U&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171GQNH4?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Main Drive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFZXR1B?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

GPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C42GBMNZ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

The two items in italics I've already purchased and integrated. I still intend to have the new mainboard/CPU/heatsink installed by a professional. If I try to do it myselft, there will be tears and profanity. I'm a bit worried that this heatsink is going to block the RAM slots, but I presume that I need a big one as I'm sure that a 13700k puts out a ton of heat. I'm also planning to keep my SSD and HDD as I have the plugs, so I don't see why not. I have a 750w bronze power supply that I presume will be adequate. My case is HyperX, but I've looked all over and can't be any more specific than that. I have two 1920x1080 monitors. I might buy a third sometime soon for my workspace, but I have no intention of going 1440 and certainly not 4k - I can't even tell the difference between 720 and 1080.

Edit: Keep in mind that I don't intend to upgrade again for another 4+ years.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

JustJeff88 posted:

Thank you. I actually have a whole plan.

So, back in March/April 2017 I bought a set of parts and had them put into a working rig by a professional, which is what I plan to do this time as well. MSI Z170A board/i5 6600/2x8 DDR4 ram/1070 GPU/500gb ssd & 1tb HDD. This system has been incredibly stable for me for 6+ years, but it's time to basically rebuild. Originally I was going to only upgrade the RAM, GPU and hard drive as those are things that I can install myself, but my processer is so dated that I just can't ignore it. Sadly, this means a new board and a new heatsink, so I'm already over budget. This is what I had in mind:

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCF57FL5?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
Heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Mainboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BP94WCFL/?coliid=I36RJIC3NL2UT8&colid=3B3XCE7H24L1U&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171GQNH4?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Main Drive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFZXR1B?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

GPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C42GBMNZ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

The two items in italics I've already purchased and integrated. I still intend to have the new mainboard/CPU/heatsink installed by a professional. If I try to do it myselft, there will be tears and profanity. I'm a bit worried that this heatsink is going to block the RAM slots, but I presume that I need a big one as I'm sure that a 13700k puts out a ton of heat. I'm also planning to keep my SSD and HDD as I have the plugs, so I don't see why not. I have a 750w bronze power supply that I presume will be adequate. My case is HyperX, but I've looked all over and can't be any more specific than that. I have two 1920x1080 monitors. I might buy a third sometime soon for my workspace, but I have no intention of going 1440 and certainly not 4k - I can't even tell the difference between 720 and 1080.

Edit: Keep in mind that I don't intend to upgrade again for another 4+ years.

See, I would actually recommend going cheaper on the CPU and heatsink and getting a 4070 instead. 64GB is also pretty overkill, especially since that's always upgradeable. If you're worried about longevity, going with a Ryzen 7000-based system should also be a consideration since those CPUs are on a socket that should see new products for several more years. For example, this collection of parts costs slightly less than the new parts you're buying here but would net you much more gaming performance in the short term while also having more upgradeability in the long term. The bonus of getting a 7700 is that you can use a much cheaper cooler since it draws less power/generates less heat while not sacrificing gaming performance. If you live near a micro center, you can save a lot more money with this bundle: https://www.microcenter.com/product...ter-build-combo

Or if you want to stick with a cheaper GPU to save money, then I'd still recommend not buying a $400 13700K in your situation. In fact, I'd recommend it even less. Get a Ryzen 7600 or something in that case, in my opinion.

Lt. Cock
May 28, 2005

INCOMING!
My budget is between 1500-2000 bucks. I feel like the 4070 is my price to performance sweet spot. I’ve never built a PC before, are there any glaring issues with this build? At 1700 it leaves me with some room to grab a better monitor than I have available and the other bits and bobs. I noticed people don’t seem to go for HDDs anymore? The SSDs seem cheap enough nowadays so I assume that’s why.

I’ll be using this for games and art programs. I’m not stressed about maxing things out, mostly I’d just rather not have to think about upgrading for a while.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($399.00 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($219.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL32 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card ($609.00 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1703.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-15 19:01 EDT-0400

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!
A Lancool 216 or Meshify 2/2 Compact are better options than the Meshify C. That case was good when it came out, but it's somewhat behind other options at this point.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

WattsvilleBlues posted:

Hahahaha, thanks for the suggestion :) His current case is a Fractal Define R4, which is very similar to the one you posted and to me looks quite dated now.

I think I could convince my dad to consider ditching the DVD bay so long as he can still have space for his extra HDDs. Do most mesh cases still have space for 3 HDDs?
Talk him into a modern case and having a $20-$30 external optical drive on the off chance it's ever needed?

JustJeff88
Jan 15, 2008

I AM
CONSISTENTLY
ANNOYING
...
JUST TERRIBLE


THIS BADGE OF SHAME IS WORTH 0.45 DOUBLE DRAGON ADVANCES

:dogout:
of SA-Mart forever

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

See, I would actually recommend going cheaper on the CPU and heatsink and getting a 4070 instead. 64GB is also pretty overkill, especially since that's always upgradeable. If you're worried about longevity, going with a Ryzen 7000-based system should also be a consideration since those CPUs are on a socket that should see new products for several more years. For example, this collection of parts costs slightly less than the new parts you're buying here but would net you much more gaming performance in the short term while also having more upgradeability in the long term. The bonus of getting a 7700 is that you can use a much cheaper cooler since it draws less power/generates less heat while not sacrificing gaming performance. If you live near a micro center, you can save a lot more money with this bundle: https://www.microcenter.com/product...ter-build-combo

Or if you want to stick with a cheaper GPU to save money, then I'd still recommend not buying a $400 13700K in your situation. In fact, I'd recommend it even less. Get a Ryzen 7600 or something in that case, in my opinion.

Edit: Never mind; misread the parts list.

JustJeff88 fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Aug 16, 2023

Lt. Cock
May 28, 2005

INCOMING!

grack posted:

A Lancool 216 or Meshify 2/2 Compact are better options than the Meshify C. That case was good when it came out, but it's somewhat behind other options at this point.

I’m gonna sound incredibly ignorant, but what makes a case good? I literally just picked the one that looked nicest around 100 dollars. I will look at those two you suggested, thank you.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Lt. Cock posted:

I’m gonna sound incredibly ignorant, but what makes a case good? I literally just picked the one that looked nicest around 100 dollars. I will look at those two you suggested, thank you.

More Airflow = More Cooling. More Cooling = Good. Therefore, More Airflow = Good

The Meshify C has a thick foam filter in the front of the panel that restricts airflow. The Meshify 2 Compact has a much thinner filter that doesn't restrict airflow nearly as much while still filtering dust well. It's also a direct upgrade in Fractal Design's case portfolio.

The Lancool 216 has an even more open front as well as very high quality included fans that provide a lot of airflow. The non-RGB version is also cheaper than the Meshify C

Lt. Cock
May 28, 2005

INCOMING!
Okay lol that makes total sense. I was just thinking about it as a box to put stuff in. Thanks for clarifying

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!
I recently built a new PC in a Lancool 216, and I love it. It was extremely easy to build in, with good cable management and very accessible component areas.

It's also insanely quiet. There are two huge case fans up front, as well as one in the back, and even when under load I can't hear anything at all, despite the very open design.

As someone who has basically never been happy with any previous case (I've built in a Phanteks Pro-M and a couple of different Corsairs), I can definitely recommend the 216.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



grack posted:

More Airflow = More Cooling. More Cooling = Good. Therefore, More Airflow = Good

The Meshify C has a thick foam filter in the front of the panel that restricts airflow. The Meshify 2 Compact has a much thinner filter that doesn't restrict airflow nearly as much while still filtering dust well. It's also a direct upgrade in Fractal Design's case portfolio.

The Lancool 216 has an even more open front as well as very high quality included fans that provide a lot of airflow. The non-RGB version is also cheaper than the Meshify C

And if you end up with a graphics card that uses 350 or more watts, you are going to be very happy that you have airflow.

My 3080Ti makes my exhaust feel like a freaking air fryer.

Other things to look for: what AIO radiators fit up top. Not fun to learn you can only fit a 240 when you have a beefy CPU

AIO in front can block a large gpu.

But… a larger case means more space is needed on your desk.

Its personal other then “airflow good.”

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Speaking of airflow, I've been trying to figure out if I should add any fans to the 2x 140mm stock on my Fractal North since I strongly prefer lower noise as long as there's no thermal throttling on my 7900X; my TUF 4070 OC has an overkill HSF.

I had an old 120mm Lian Li fan sitting around, and by old I mean it might be 20 years old. I had the case fans plus the fans on my Peerless Assassin set to max out at 65% at 70C which puts my idle CPU temp at 50C.

I played about 30 min of Diablo 4 before and after installing the 120mm rear exhaust and the max temp was 81C with vs 83C without. Not a huge difference, and obviously I can ramp up the fan curves by 5% without significantly increasing noise (lowers my idle by 2C), but it does lead me to wonder if I should get newer/better fans. I suppose since things are working fine, there's no need to get anything, especially since just buying 1x new 120mm isn't really cost effective, and I can't exactly buy a mixed pack of 2x140mm and 1x120mm Noctuas.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Aug 16, 2023

Reiterpallasch
Nov 3, 2010



Fun Shoe
Dumb question: so i've got this USB stick that can install windows, will anything bad happen if I also extract the BIOS update zip file to the root of the drive for UEFI flashing? I heard about some rare CPU-frying voltage bug and Gigabyte's website lists version F5 as the bios version that fixed the bug, so if I boot the machine for the first time I assume I can check the BIOS version the board came with and only update if it's older than that?

Also, it looks like the Aorus B650 Elite has onboard graphics, so I can just put the board onto the opened static bag onto the box, install the CPU/cooler/memory, plug in the 24-pin and 4+8 pin ATX power cables, the 4-pin CPU fan header, and see if it posts, right?

Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry

Josh Lyman posted:

Speaking of airflow, I've been trying to figure out if I should add any fans to the 2x 140mm stock on my Fractal North since I strongly prefer lower noise as long as there's no thermal throttling on my 7900X; my TUF 4070 OC has an overkill HSF.

I had an old 120mm Lian Li fan sitting around, and by old I mean it might be 20 years old. I had the case fans plus the fans on my Peerless Assassin set to max out at 65% at 70C which puts my idle CPU temp at 50C.

I played about 30 min of Diablo 4 before and after installing the 120mm rear exhaust and the max temp was 81C with vs 83C without. Not a huge difference, and obviously I can ramp up the fan curves by 5% without significantly increasing noise (lowers my idle by 2C), but it does lead me to wonder if I should get newer/better fans. I suppose since things are working fine, there's no need to get anything, especially since just buying 1x new 120mm isn't really cost effective, and I can't exactly buy a mixed pack of 2x140mm and 1x120mm Noctuas.

imho you're way overestimating the amount of change this will make. don't worry about it, or try your 5% fan curve bump. beyond a certain threshold, changing the air out faster will not help your cooler(s) radiate better.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Josh Lyman posted:

Speaking of airflow, I've been trying to figure out if I should add any fans to the 2x 140mm stock on my Fractal North since I strongly prefer lower noise as long as there's no thermal throttling on my 7900X; my TUF 4070 OC has an overkill HSF.

I had an old 120mm Lian Li fan sitting around, and by old I mean it might be 20 years old. I had the case fans plus the fans on my Peerless Assassin set to max out at 65% at 70C which puts my idle CPU temp at 50C.

I played about 30 min of Diablo 4 before and after installing the 120mm rear exhaust and the max temp was 81C with vs 83C without. Not a huge difference, and obviously I can ramp up the fan curves by 5% without significantly increasing noise (lowers my idle by 2C), but it does lead me to wonder if I should get newer/better fans. I suppose since things are working fine, there's no need to get anything, especially since just buying 1x new 120mm isn't really cost effective, and I can't exactly buy a mixed pack of 2x140mm and 1x120mm Noctuas.

As long as you have room for an extra thick PC fan, the T30 is in a class entirely on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/ive?ingressT..._ib_7_ivx_share

It’s literally just thicker than a normal computer fan with obvious benefits.

Use that as exhaust.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Gunshow Poophole posted:

imho you're way overestimating the amount of change this will make. don't worry about it, or try your 5% fan curve bump. beyond a certain threshold, changing the air out faster will not help your cooler(s) radiate better.

It sounds like he had no exhaust fan in the back of the computer though and I don’t think that is a good idea nor do I think it’s a good idea to run with a 20 year old fan which is going to be louder than brand new fan.

Also, super old hardware that gets fired up just tends to fail really fast.

He seems to care about noise, T30 owns at moving air and keeping sound down.

T30 really is an amazing fan as long as you have the clearance for it. On the front you have to worry about having space for the GPU but the rear exhaust fan doesn’t have any issues being thick.

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grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Josh Lyman posted:

Speaking of airflow, I've been trying to figure out if I should add any fans to the 2x 140mm stock on my Fractal North since I strongly prefer lower noise as long as there's no thermal throttling on my 7900X; my TUF 4070 OC has an overkill HSF.

I had an old 120mm Lian Li fan sitting around, and by old I mean it might be 20 years old. I had the case fans plus the fans on my Peerless Assassin set to max out at 65% at 70C which puts my idle CPU temp at 50C.

I played about 30 min of Diablo 4 before and after installing the 120mm rear exhaust and the max temp was 81C with vs 83C without. Not a huge difference, and obviously I can ramp up the fan curves by 5% without significantly increasing noise (lowers my idle by 2C), but it does lead me to wonder if I should get newer/better fans. I suppose since things are working fine, there's no need to get anything, especially since just buying 1x new 120mm isn't really cost effective, and I can't exactly buy a mixed pack of 2x140mm and 1x120mm Noctuas.

Get a pair of Arctic P12 PWM fans, replace the the fans that Thermalright ships with the Peerless Assassin. They'll be a bit quieter under load than the stock fans.

Use one or both of the Thermalright fans as an exhaust.

Cheap, simple, should lower overall system noise.

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