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Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

rufius posted:

Not yet… hoping one comes in stock before my trip on October but I’ll live if not.

What's the main appeal of the Q3? The Q2 feels like it ticks all the boxes already and 60MP isn't that much more. Is the AF much better?

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rufius
Feb 27, 2011

Clear alcohols are for rich women on diets.

Clayton Bigsby posted:

What's the main appeal of the Q3? The Q2 feels like it ticks all the boxes already and 60MP isn't that much more. Is the AF much better?

So Firmware 5.0 improved the Q2’s autofocus, but the Q3 adds PDAF+CDAF instead of just CDAF for the Q2.

Most reviews note that as one of its biggest improvements. I’m also interested in the tilting screen since i shoot from the waist quite a bit.

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

I got a Q3 from Leica USA store website a few weeks ago. It's my first Leica and I'm coming from Fuji, of course. Sorry for the paragraph separated bulleted items here.

Tilting screen is something I use all the time on the Fujis but the ergonomics of pulling it out on the Q3 just seem bad. I'll still use it but on the XT5 its a quick flick of the finger, on the Q3 its a 3 second nail digging exercise. Not very impressed, but glad to have it.

Face/body autofocus seems good to me, however standard box tracking/location based AF-C is really bad in comparison to the XT5. I'm going to have to change how I autofocus and compose using this thing because of it sometimes, not impressed.

The way the camera shows exposure is a bit convoluted and not super intuitive to me, so that's something else to get used to because I find it hard to catch in the moment, but this seems to be the same method on the rest of the Leicas. Something about the way it changes exposure during live-view and half-press and the exposure compensation dial is a tiny dot below the exposure value meter, and it's not quite so clear how the two relate to each other.. I'll learn. The rear display also drops framerate depending on how dark it is :confused: (actually this is probably normal for most cameras). Also there's a long blackout on all the viewfinders when you press the shutter, which makes the whole thing feel laggy.

It's kinda buggy. Lots of black screens and crashes requiring you to pull the battery, even after the most recent patch. At least the battery comes out with a quick lever pull, kinda nice. Battery life itself I haven't tested a ton but it doesn't seem fantastic so far. Probably Good Enough.

It 100% needs the thumb grip for ergonomics, which is also sold out and over priced but this is just bullshit Leica Things. They should just make it ergonomic to begin with, that doesn't mean a huge hand grip, but something. It's shaped and textured like a bar of soap.

All the things I do like are the same on any Q, really. The lens is lovely, the manual focusing is great for a drive-by-wire lens. Build quality, sure good, whatever, maybe a bit heavy. Sensor absorbs light like a mf'er, just be sure to grey card the white balance as the auto seems kinda wild.

This was my first introduction to "Leica community" people online and holy gently caress I have instant regrets. I'm gonna tape up the logo not to dissuade thieves, but other Leica users from approaching me.

So, TL;DR is unless the tilting screen and body/face autofocus is a big reason for you, the Q2 is probably a better option for the cost.

tuna fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Aug 13, 2023

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Yikes.

I never saw the allure of Leica, and reading that just... no. Nope. I'm sticking to Nikon thank you very much.

charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

Yikes indeed, a lot of the Q3 was appealing on paper to me, notably the usb-c and wireless charger, but if it's just a worse Q2 maybe that's the route to take if I ever decide to sell all my Canon and Fuji stuff and downsize to one camera like I contemplate every few months.

Cognac McCarthy
Oct 5, 2008

It's a man's game, but boys will play


:whitewater:

rufius
Feb 27, 2011

Clear alcohols are for rich women on diets.

tuna posted:

Leica Q3 :words:

This was my first introduction to "Leica community" people online and holy gently caress I have instant regrets. I'm gonna tape up the logo not to dissuade thieves, but other Leica users from approaching me.

So, TL;DR is unless the tilting screen and body/face autofocus is a big reason for you, the Q2 is probably a better option for the cost.

Ya I have a Q2 Mono so I’m comfortable on the Q2 form factor. Maybe I’ll wait a while for the Q3 and just bring my XT4 for the trip.

As to the Leica community - ya just avoid them. I love the photos I get out of my Leica, but I’m not interested in the people that use and wear them as status symbols.

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

charliebravo77 posted:

Yikes indeed, a lot of the Q3 was appealing on paper to me, notably the usb-c and wireless charger, but if it's just a worse Q2 maybe that's the route to take if I ever decide to sell all my Canon and Fuji stuff and downsize to one camera like I contemplate every few months.

I wouldn't describe it as a worse Q2, it's a Q2 with 3-4 mild upgrades (and immature firmware that will be fixed over time). It's just probably not worth the $$$$ upgrading from the Q2, or it makes buying the Q2 at a discounted resale value a much better proposition, they're overpriced regardless.

rufius posted:

Ya I have a Q2 Mono so I’m comfortable on the Q2 form factor. Maybe I’ll wait a while for the Q3 and just bring my XT4 for the trip.

The Q2M is very cool and probably just worth holding onto until there's a generational leap in Qs.

Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!

rufius posted:

As to the Leica community - ya just avoid them. I love the photos I get out of my Leica, but I’m not interested in the people that use and wear them as status symbols.

This is true for all communities set up around a brand.

Shart Carbuncle
Aug 4, 2004

Star Trek:
The Motion Picture
Surprised to learn that the Q3 has ports! The 2 ain’t got poo poo.

rufius
Feb 27, 2011

Clear alcohols are for rich women on diets.

tuna posted:

:words:

The Q2M is very cool and probably just worth holding onto until there's a generational leap in Qs.

Ya - the Q2M isn’t goin anywhere for me. It’s usual “grab and go” camera.

Maybe I’ll look at the Q2’s. I’d like a color Q…….

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



I haven't done much photography for a long time, and I think part of the reason is simply that my old Nikon D700 is so stupidly bulky and literally gives me back pain to lug around. The Compact Flash card is also annoying to work with, and it doesn't do video.
After seeing the upcoming Nikon Zf and discovering there is also an Zfc already out, I thought about getting one of those, but the new price and used prices for those are still more than I'm willing to throw at gear for the moment.
But it also got me looking at other systems. The "retro-look" is part of the appeal of the Zf/Zfc to me, and I discovered there are also other mirrorless systems with similar designs.

In particular I've looked at the Olympus OM-D E-M10 (mark 2 or 3). I'm going to Japan in a week, and the used prices on those are very reasonable from my initial checks.


So, coming from Nikon D system:

- Are the controls on OM-D good?
I never really liked using the Canon cameras I've touched, but have been quite okay with most rangefinders (analog) I have used.

- How is the experience if I want to adapt my old glass?
I have a mix of AF-G, AF-D and AI lenses, and both some FX and DX format ones. How many features can be supported when adapting?

- Any alternatives to consider?

- What will I miss out on by getting a 5-7 year old model as the E-M10 mark 3 is?

p0stal b0b
May 7, 2003

May contain traces of nuts...

nielsm posted:

So, coming from Nikon D system:

- Are the controls on OM-D good?

The dials are fine, and I quite like the experience of shooting with mine. The menus are a whole 'nother ball game, though. Olympus has a reputation for near-impenetrable menu trees, with a lot of settings being in unintuitive places, although the main ones you'd use in a day of shooting are easily accessible through the Super Control Panel, which is only a single button press away.

It's also worth noting that while the e-m10mk3 is better than the mk2 in most respects, it actually has less customizability - you can't save multiple setups(MySets) to be switched between with the press of a button anymore, and there are only two mappable function buttons on the mk3, whereas the mk2 had 6, due to Olympus now aiming this model at the more beginner end of the range. I've set up mine for back-button focus with the second function button for focus zooming, and that works fine for me.

This article goes into a bit more depth on the difference between the two.


nielsm posted:

- How is the experience if I want to adapt my old glass?
I have a mix of AF-G, AF-D and AI lenses, and both some FX and DX format ones. How many features can be supported when adapting?

In my admittedly minimum experience using adapted glass, the mk2 may actually be better than the mk3. The higher number of function buttons allows much more flexibility in terms of mapping focus peaking and focus zoom to separate buttons while still being able to use back button focus. Focus peaking works automatically when you turn the focus ring in manual focus mode with Olympus m4/3 lenses, but manual lenses will have to have it bound to a button to activate it.

If I wanted to primarily use adapted lenses, especially manual ones, I'd either go for the e-m10mk2 or look for an e-m5 model in whatever price range you can afford. If I'd had the money at the time, I would have gone for an e-m5mk3 over the e-m10mk3, for sure.


nielsm posted:

- Any alternatives to consider?

I've only really used Olympus cameras, so with that said, I'd probably recommend the flexibility, weather sealing and quality of an e-m5 over an e-m10.


nielsm posted:

- What will I miss out on by getting a 5-7 year old model as the E-M10 mark 3 is?

You'd have to look at an online comparison tool for individual specs, but later model cameras (especially the OM-5, for instance :allears:) have higher resolution (typically 20mp rather than 16mp), better stabilisation, less noise, more customisation and things like LiveND mode, handheld hi-res shot mode and weather sealing.

That said, even with my current e-m10mk3, I'm the weak point in the chain, not the camera...

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Thank you. The D700 I'm coming from is 12 MP and is imo only "okay" when going past ISO 800, so sensor wise mostly anything will be an improvement. (Save the obvious part about going from full frame to smaller.)
I'll take another look at the E-M5 line again, and otherwise probably just go for a cheaper E-M10 mk2.

I also briefly looked at lens adapters, and it looks like there's basically a choice between cheap mount-only in the $30 range, and some with aperture control in the $100 range, but none of them do any electronic communication?

nielsm fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Aug 20, 2023

Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!
Wouldn't adapting FF glass to a MFT camera defeat the point of changing to a small and light system? You're lugging around glass that the camera is using only a small part of.

If you like retro looking cameras also look at Fuji X range. The x-t30 is pretty small and light.

ugh whatever jeez
Mar 19, 2009

Buglord
E-M10 II is great little camera and it won't melt from little rain. Considering its price it's great small option IMO. I still keep one around to use with Oly 60mm macro and couple tiny lenses.

If I'd want to spend more, I'd go for E-M5 III - that's basically E-M1 II in a different body and gives you PDAF and 20 MP sensor.

Stevie Lee
Oct 8, 2007

Mega Comrade posted:

Wouldn't adapting FF glass to a MFT camera defeat the point of changing to a small and light system? You're lugging around glass that the camera is using only a small part of.

yes, but it's fun and you can also adapt them with speed boosters/focal reducers to use more of the glass (about equal to what an APS-C sensor would use). I use mostly old pentax-a and pentax-m lenses on my MFT bodies and those are typically way lighter than a modern equivalent. my pentax-a 300mm f4 is almost certainly lighter than anything close to that from the past couple decades.

I'm just waiting for Panasonic to announce the G9 mk ii next month so I can be mad that they didn't announce a GX8 mk ii instead. I'll probably still waste my money on it

Unexpected
Jan 5, 2010

You're gonna need
a bigger boat.
Hi. Does anybody have experience with Nikon Z9 or Z8 + Sigma 60-600? Either using the old version + FTZ adapter or new version (e.g., Sony-E) + adapter. Thanks.

uwimage
Jan 26, 2009
Any good tutorials on an A7R III for photo out there? Everyone I’ve watched seems to veer off to video. I shot video professionally for 15+ years, I want to learn this camera for stills…

uwimage
Jan 26, 2009

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

the previous version of the 70-200 f/4 will probably be found for a decent price used soon, since a new version is coming out.

look at the new version if you also want to incorporate macro. ... dunno that "cheap" applies to the new one, though. But it would address both of your needs?? it's also decently compact and lightweight and weather sealed, for all your outdoor needs

https://dustinabbott.net/2023/07/sony-fe-70-200mm-f4-macro-g-oss-ii-review/

Thanks, picked one up for 150, a custom macro for 30 that works great in manual mode! Gotta love eBay sniping!

600mm next for wildlife…but either I need to save or my wife needs to get a job (she is going back to school at least…)

kefkafloyd
Jun 8, 2006

What really knocked me out
Was her cheap sunglasses

uwimage posted:

Any good tutorials on an A7R III for photo out there? Everyone I’ve watched seems to veer off to video. I shot video professionally for 15+ years, I want to learn this camera for stills…

Look up Gary Friedman and his books. They’re worth the money. He also does books for other brands too, but Sony (and Minolta before that) is his primary system.

Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!

nielsm posted:

Thank you. The D700 I'm coming from is 12 MP and is imo only "okay" when going past ISO 800, so sensor wise mostly anything will be an improvement. (Save the obvious part about going from full frame to smaller.)
I'll take another look at the E-M5 line again, and otherwise probably just go for a cheaper E-M10 mk2.

I also briefly looked at lens adapters, and it looks like there's basically a choice between cheap mount-only in the $30 range, and some with aperture control in the $100 range, but none of them do any electronic communication?

I feel old hearing that the D700 is only OK for high ISO.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Brrrmph posted:

I feel old hearing that the D700 is only OK for high ISO.

Came here to post this. The D700 and D3 were revolutionary when they came out.

Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!

Wibla posted:

Came here to post this. The D700 and D3 were revolutionary when they came out.

They were and they held their own for 10+ years, imo. There is a quote from a Nikon engineer around the release of the D3 where he was asked what makes the D3 special and he said something like, “other digital cameras take pictures. The D3 takes photographs.” That sums up what a leap forward it was.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Yeah. Seems the D700 is having a bit of a renaissance these days, people rediscovered the colour rendering :v:

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Brrrmph posted:

I feel old hearing that the D700 is only OK for high ISO.

It really depends on the point of comparison, yes. It's obviously a huge leap over the D40 and D80 I used before, as well as over what film can achieve in low-light resolution. But also a few years later there was another revolution in sensor resolutions and sensitivity, around the same time video recording came to DSLRs.
I'm definitely holding on to that D700, it just isn't much of a travel camera unless photography is the point of the travel.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

nielsm posted:

- How is the experience if I want to adapt my old glass?
I have a mix of AF-G, AF-D and AI lenses, and both some FX and DX format ones. How many features can be supported when adapting?

The 2x crop is, I think, a bummer on adapted glass unless you're just wanting a ton of reach. Nothing will autofocus the AF-D lenses, the G lenses need something to control the aperture which is usually a mechanical ring on the adapter. Someone else mentioned speedbooster/focal reducers which will make the crop closer to APS-C and give you some extra light. I think Viltrox makes an adapter that'll do autofocus on the AF-S lenses and has an aperture actuator thing, but I would not expect it to be good AF and may have spotty compatibility. That adapter is the only way you'll get VR on any of them as well.

DanTheFryingPan
Jan 28, 2006
I was happily shooting ISO 3200 on the D700, how times have changed.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I'm curious how much improvement there is going from a 14 y/o 12MP ff sensor and a 7 y/o 16MP micro 4/3 sensor.

(edit: or whatever the ages of the sensors are, I'm not sure when generations happened with mft)

Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!
That’s a good question. I know my D3 was still better at ISO 3200 than my D500 and those were almost a decade apart.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004
Does anyone have recommendations for the best way to keep a camera easily accessible while hiking?

I go on one or two hiking-focused trips per year (day hikes, not overnight), and I currently just have a BlackRapid strap, which is not ideal. I have to put it under my backpack, so my left shoulder has two straps stacked over each other, and while keeping the camera on my right hip is fine, I have to be very careful about it accidentally swinging around on rocky terrain. I also can't use the backpack's hip or sternum straps to keep the space clear for the camera.

I know BlackRapid has a version that can attach to a backpack, so that would probably work better, but the swinging would still be an issue and it might make it more difficult to take the backpack on and off. I've also seen people use a backpack strap clip, which I've never used but I know Peak Design makes one. I'm sure there are other solutions as well. What do you guys think?

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
I assume by right hip you mean something like the Spider Holster?



I used to use a dual hip holster when I did weddings and I loved it. But I wasn't hiking. And they do swing.

I'd think a chest strap/holster that has a center holster would be ideal.

Viginti Septem fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 23, 2023

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Depends on the size of your camera and lens configuration. There are clips like peak design to attach to your backpack strap but they might not be the best solution if you have a big lens/camera. A lot of my wilderness photographer friends do either the peak design clips or some type of chest rig/bag that clips to your backpack straps.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

Viginti Septem posted:

I assume by right hip you mean something like the Spider Holster?

Oh, no, this is basically what I have: https://www.amazon.com/BlackRapid-Mirrorless-Right-Handed-Left-Handed-Photographers/dp/B079M1NKD4/ It goes on my left shoulder, underneath my backpack strap, and dangles on my right hip. To use the camera, it just swings up along the strap, but then I can't use the horizontal straps on my backpack or they'll block it.

A hip holster seems like it could work though, if it stays in place, since it wouldn't interfere much with the backpack. I'm not sure how I would attach a chest holster to my current standard Osprey pack.

Verman posted:

Depends on the size of your camera and lens configuration. There are clips like peak design to attach to your backpack strap but they might not be the best solution if you have a big lens/camera. A lot of my wilderness photographer friends do either the peak design clips or some type of chest rig/bag that clips to your backpack straps.

Yeah, good point. I use Fuji so it's relatively small and light (I'm upgrading soon, so let's just assume an X-T5 with 18-55 kit or 70-300). I suspect the Peak Design clip would work pretty well, so I'm leaning towards that unless there are recommendations against it / for something else.

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


that peak design clip is good if your body/lens is light

i just take off my backpack when i want to make a photo. ive looked for and tried other solutions for more than a decade. it's okay, i'm not out there to hurry anyway

ugh whatever jeez
Mar 19, 2009

Buglord
Capture Clip works for fine for FF if using standard pro zoom. Not that well for big honkin' teles.

Probably best little accessory I've ever bought

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

I use a longish cross body strap with my daypack and it works great, but I have a X100 so not sure how well they scale up. My favorite is this one because the fabric is smooth so it doesn't get caught up on my daypack. They make a wider version for heavier cameras, too.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

The peak design clip is surprisingly comfortable clamped to a backpack shoulder strap, even with a 500mm lens on it. It's not the best looking solution and definitely bulky, but it does work and I don't hate every step when I'm out hiking (sometimes I want the big lens ready in case there's wildlife).

With a more reasonable 24-105 attached it's quite nice, yeah you still got a brick stuck to your chest but it offsets the weight in your backpack and makes it feel lighter.

Terrifying Effigies
Oct 22, 2008

Problems look mighty small from 150 miles up.

Possibly overkill, but I recently switched from the peak design clip to the large version of this, which I clip across the chest using two carbiners to the backpack chest strap: https://www.hyperlitemountaingear.com/products/camera-pod

I did replace the smaller included carbiners with two of these larger ones, which are easier to clip & unclip to the backpack/belt straps: https://niteize.com/g-series-dual-chamber-carabiner

The big advantages:

- Centers the camera on the chest so it doesn't swing and bump around as much as the peak design clip, particularly with longer lenses attached (I normally have an X-T2 with the 16-80, 80 macro, or 70-300)
- I found the peak design clip release to be somewhat finicky at times, whereas unzipping and pulling the camera out was smoother overall
- Case is pretty waterproof, I hiked with it all day in +3 inches steady rain while keeping the camera dry even when pulling it out for occasional shots
- In a pinch I can take it off and use as a padded case inside the backpack, or clip the carbiners to my belt as a hip bag.

I'm normally backpacking / hiking ~10-15 miles a day so probably more extreme conditions than most day hiking, but I've definitely been happy with the performance.

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grahm
Oct 17, 2005
taxes :(

Terrifying Effigies posted:

Possibly overkill, but I recently switched from the peak design clip to the large version of this, which I clip across the chest using two carbiners to the backpack chest strap: https://www.hyperlitemountaingear.com/products/camera-pod

I did replace the smaller included carbiners with two of these larger ones, which are easier to clip & unclip to the backpack/belt straps: https://niteize.com/g-series-dual-chamber-carabiner

The big advantages:

- Centers the camera on the chest so it doesn't swing and bump around as much as the peak design clip, particularly with longer lenses attached (I normally have an X-T2 with the 16-80, 80 macro, or 70-300)
- I found the peak design clip release to be somewhat finicky at times, whereas unzipping and pulling the camera out was smoother overall
- Case is pretty waterproof, I hiked with it all day in +3 inches steady rain while keeping the camera dry even when pulling it out for occasional shots
- In a pinch I can take it off and use as a padded case inside the backpack, or clip the carbiners to my belt as a hip bag.

I'm normally backpacking / hiking ~10-15 miles a day so probably more extreme conditions than most day hiking, but I've definitely been happy with the performance.

Yeah, as someone who tried the Peak Design clip for backpacking and also does 10-15 mile days — it's pretty annoying to have it bounce around when you're putting in effort. And in any situations where you're using your hands, one of them will have to hold the camera from bumping against rocks etc. That said, if you're doing more relaxed hiking you may be OK. The last few trips I've taken a camera, I just put it in my backpack's outside pocket in a ziploc bag — I did think about grabbing that HMG pod but so far I don't mind just taking off my pack and grabbing the camera when I want it. And if the light and/or scenery are nice, I might just walk with the camera in my hands for 10-20 minutes getting shots and then pop it back in the bag when I'm done.

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