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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Lumpy posted:

Paint a highlight on it and it's a rip.

Also, that's wonderful.

brilliant idea, and thanks

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hmm yes
Dec 2, 2000
College Slice
As a total beginner to minis painting, I’ve read the last 500 pages of this thread over the last 2 months and learned a lot—thanks to everyone that posted techniques and also to everyone who posted their work. Lurkers don’t post but we appreciate everything

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Completed my 3rd and final Deathwatch Aggressor seconded from the Subjugators Chapter for my Indomitus Kill-Team this evening:


welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull

AndyElusive posted:

Completed my 3rd and final Deathwatch Aggressor seconded from the Subjugators Chapter for my Indomitus Kill-Team this evening:

Incredible work! Love the nice blends on the armor and those crispy clean hazard stripes.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I like the boltgun on one arm and flamer on the other.

Edit:

How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies? I did 20 of these guys at 20min a piece and had to do them all in random colors to keep it interesting, also to test out what contrast pairings I like. It's going to be for the space marine board game but really I wanted to see how fast I could paint them. Still gotta get the bases done but whatever

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Aug 21, 2023

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Speaking of bases, does anyone have any tips for basing figures with integral bases onto mdf? Historically, I’ve used Vallejo mud, but it’s a massive pain when the area around the Integral base is quite small. Using sand and PVA results in a very prominent lip.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Solutions I've tinkered with:

Cut the lip of the integral base to make a shallower transition

Cover the whole base in stuff (mud/sand/grass) to hide the integral base

Make a little hole that the integral base can fit into and hide

Cut the model off the integral base

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Southern Heel posted:

Speaking of bases, does anyone have any tips for basing figures with integral bases onto mdf? Historically, I’ve used Vallejo mud, but it’s a massive pain when the area around the Integral base is quite small. Using sand and PVA results in a very prominent lip.

Use sculpting epoxy (green stuff, etc) to fill the lip gap between the integral base and the surface, and then apply basing paste over it?

I've never done this; it's just what I would do if I were in that position.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

Spanish Manlove posted:

I like the boltgun on one arm and flamer on the other.

Edit:

How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies? I did 20 of these guys at 20min a piece and had to do them all in random colors to keep it interesting, also to test out what contrast pairings I like. It's going to be for the space marine board game but really I wanted to see how fast I could paint them. Still gotta get the bases done but whatever

For me personally, when I painted 120 ork boyz, it was a combination of making sure there was a lot of variety in my models with simple sculpts. So it might be my 27th ork slugga boy, but THIS one is reloading his pistol, etc. For their time those third edition ork boy sprues were filled with gubbinz and highly customizable. Sorry, I know that doesn't help in these monopose tryanids.

I haven't assembled my leviathan `nids yet, but I plan on using organic variations between the models, like different shades and hues and stuff like that. Similarly, I used lots of different accent paintings with the orks.

So does that make Imperial Guard the worst horde army? Because of the uniforms?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Spanish Manlove posted:

I like the boltgun on one arm and flamer on the other.

Edit:

How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies? I did 20 of these guys at 20min a piece and had to do them all in random colors to keep it interesting, also to test out what contrast pairings I like. It's going to be for the space marine board game but really I wanted to see how fast I could paint them. Still gotta get the bases done but whatever


I do it by painting one color at a time across batches of ~10.
So I paint all the green, then all the brown, then all the metal. Then I do all the washes etc etc.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I keep buying units because I like their armor a lot...

I grabbed a squad of Cultists and Atalans and managed to snag some Orlock Quad bikers to go along with em and now I'm thinking of converting an ork trukk or something... And then I spent.. an amount of money on hooded cultist heads..

I also got a hand drill and it's already helped me paint so much

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

welcome 2 Clown Town posted:

Incredible work! Love the nice blends on the armor and those crispy clean hazard stripes.

Thanks! Just don't look too closely because they aren't THAT crispy. By that I mean I feel like they could have been a little crispier but I'm not mad about how they turned out.


Hive Fleet Chroma.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Spanish Manlove posted:

How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies?

i respectfully submit everyone anywhere who posts about 40K as your answer

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Spanish Manlove posted:

I like the boltgun on one arm and flamer on the other.

Edit:

How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies? I did 20 of these guys at 20min a piece and had to do them all in random colors to keep it interesting, also to test out what contrast pairings I like. It's going to be for the space marine board game but really I wanted to see how fast I could paint them. Still gotta get the bases done but whatever



Those look great: what colors were used for the top right yellow and green? Just primed my models for the same game and am looking forward to painting them in two weeks when work travel slows down.

Arcturas
Mar 30, 2011

Bucnasti posted:

I do it by painting one color at a time across batches of ~10.
So I paint all the green, then all the brown, then all the metal. Then I do all the washes etc etc.

Paint them all in glitter and the sheer glee of doing glitter Tyranids solves all your problems. You can get variations by doing different color combinations of glitter, and Target sells 6-color mixes of craft glitter for $5.

(Plus then it's super easy to do five to ten at once. Prime black, paint a dark color like dark purple or blue on all the flesh bits, feeling zero guilt if it misses the recesses because that's what the black is for, drybrush a lighter purple or blue very roughly. Then apply CA glue to any of the raised carapace sections, pushing it into crevices with a toothpick or whatever. Pour glitter over the top so it sticks to the glued sections, press lightly with your finger to smooth out any glitter particles that are on their edge. Cry because some of the glitter sticks to the mini even where you didn't glue it, and giltter is hateful but beautiful. Try in vain with a toothbrush or whatever to wipe off the glitter from other places, eventually sigh and accept your mistakes. Possibly finish with some bright yellow eyes that look dope when you look closely. Probably also do a very small handful of pallid bone highlights on rounded spots of the flesh to simulate light on a really shiny dark surface. Throw gloss varnish over the whole thing to keep the glitter in place and also protect it.)

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Ropes4u posted:

Those look great: what colors were used for the top right yellow and green? Just primed my models for the same game and am looking forward to painting them in two weeks when work travel slows down.

Imperial Fist Yellow and Warp Lightning Green. Imperial fist doesn't work much like a contrast paint, it's like a really thick ink and has amazing coverage but doesn't do the whole "instant shade, midtone, highlight" like the rest of the contrast paints. However, it's the best covering yellow paint i've ever used.

My personal favorites and accidental finds are:

Targor Rageshade and Terradon Turquoise.


Magos purple and akhelian green


Aethermatic Blue and Magmadroth Flame, aka the miami dolphins


Space Wolves Grey and Luxion Purple


Frostheart and Leviadon Blue, aka the lego ice world

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Spanish Manlove posted:

Imperial Fist Yellow

Thank you. I’m going with a purple and orange for my leviathan Nids; but I may paint my space marine Nids in a similar fashion to test all my colors.

Its a nice yellow that I should have guessed as an IF player

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Cross-posting some Demonship stuff.

Cthulu Carl posted:

I guess this is Oath Complete



Spent most of the month trying to figure out if I should mount the deck plates or try to magnetize them or something so they stay together. In the end, I just went with gluing them to some XPS foam, using Mod Podge covered masking tape to cover the edges, and also using a magnetic sheet on the bottom so I can stick it down for transport/storage, and also to set it on some 123 blocks to help keep it steady when in use.

The blood and vomit might be a little too much and the paint job itself too plain, but looks all right enough when it's got all the other terrain bits on it.



I need to revisit most of the terrain anyway because there's quite a bit of warping on the them.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Shoehead posted:

I keep buying units because I like their armor a lot...

I grabbed a squad of Cultists and Atalans and managed to snag some Orlock Quad bikers to go along with em and now I'm thinking of converting an ork trukk or something... And then I spent.. an amount of money on hooded cultist heads..

I also got a hand drill and it's already helped me paint so much

Nice work!

..I just bought 10 second-hand genestealer hybrid torsos for the same reason.

Athas
Aug 6, 2007

fuck that joker
Just finished the first models I have painted in over a decade (and I was never very good in the first place). Only big thing left is basing.



I am reasonably satisfied with the result. They look pretty decent from a battlefield distance. Up close, it's clear that my brush agility and skill at managing paint consistency leaves something to be desired. That'll hopefully improve with practice.

Apart from the obvious imperfections, I found it much more difficult to come up with a colour theme than I anticipated. I didn't want purely gold custodes, but I also wanted something that would be easy to paint (or at least look OK when painted by someone with low skill). I came up with a dark steel with gold trim, purple cloth, bone swords, and horsehair plumes and ropes and such. Basically a ripoff Lord Soth. I intend to grow a larger army, and I'm concerned about how to paint a tank or dreadnought to fit this scheme. I also think I went a bit overboard with the gold detailing, and the steel (leadbelcher with several washes of nuln oil) isn't quite as dark as I had hoped. Any advice for painting very dark steel? I could not find any suitable Citadel paints.

This was WIP:



Is there some other way I could have made them less monotonous?

I am particularly happy with how the plumes turned out.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



I was doing an airbrush priming marathon last night with my Badger Patriot and at some point the primer started bubbling out around the threads of the needle cap. I stripped the airbrush down and gave the front end a soak in Simple Green to get the primer off and have just given the needle a good once over to rid it of a little bit of dried primer so I think I've managed to get everything back to where it should be (once I reoil the needle at least) but I'm not sure what caused the problem in the first place. I did tighten the needle cap at one point last night because it was a little loose and seemed to be having a negative impact on the spray but now I'm not so sure. It's probably a really simple and common thing but I just don't have enough experience to know and while it's low stakes right now while I'm laying down black primer, as soon as I start trying to build a zenithal or base coat, that potential spattering is just not going to work.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Nice work!

..I just bought 10 second-hand genestealer hybrid torsos for the same reason.

Oooh cool, what are you pairing them with?

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
How to paint 5 different brown colors that all end up just looking like "brown": a study



(I know some highlights would help distinguish tones)

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
After messing with a bunch of contrast paints in a row, garaghak's sewer is my favorite utility brown that works for everything

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Spanish Manlove posted:

After messing with a bunch of contrast paints in a row, garaghak's sewer is my favorite utility brown that works for everything

100%, it's perfect for holsters and other miscellaneous pouches, looks fine without highlights.

Seldom Posts
Jul 4, 2010

Grimey Drawer

rantmo posted:

I was doing an airbrush priming marathon last night with my Badger Patriot and at some point the primer started bubbling out around the threads of the needle cap. I stripped the airbrush down and gave the front end a soak in Simple Green to get the primer off and have just given the needle a good once over to rid it of a little bit of dried primer so I think I've managed to get everything back to where it should be (once I reoil the needle at least) but I'm not sure what caused the problem in the first place. I did tighten the needle cap at one point last night because it was a little loose and seemed to be having a negative impact on the spray but now I'm not so sure. It's probably a really simple and common thing but I just don't have enough experience to know and while it's low stakes right now while I'm laying down black primer, as soon as I start trying to build a zenithal or base coat, that potential spattering is just not going to work.

I've had this problem too, and would love to know if there are any solutions for it. Best I've been able to do is as you have, strip the thing down clean it and start over again.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Shoehead posted:

Oooh cool, what are you pairing them with?

Whatever I have lying around. Currently, two pairs of Skitarii Ranger legs, maybe some Cawdor or push-fit Chaos Cultist legs if I feel like cutting them in half.

I'm still on the lookout for spare Sicarian Ruststalker dome heads.

Wizchine
Sep 17, 2007

Television is the retina
of the mind's eye.

Count Thrashula posted:

How to paint 5 different brown colors that all end up just looking like "brown": a study



(I know some highlights would help distinguish tones)

Looks real good to me.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Does gouache paint reactivate with water?

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Slow work day. Second dude for my Rangers of Shadow Deep is done.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Spanish Manlove posted:

Does gouache paint reactivate with water?

I think it depends - I have a few bottles of Liquitex acrylic gouache and it doesn't reactivate. At least not that I could tell the few times I've used it.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cthulu Carl posted:

I think it depends - I have a few bottles of Liquitex acrylic gouache and it doesn't reactivate. At least not that I could tell the few times I've used it.

I have the same stuff (thanks vince venturella, I'm very suggestable) and was reading about the properties of gouache paint and classically it can reactivate with water like a watercolor but I'm unsure if the liquitex stuff does.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Spanish Manlove posted:

I have the same stuff (thanks vince venturella, I'm very suggestable) and was reading about the properties of gouache paint and classically it can reactivate with water like a watercolor but I'm unsure if the liquitex stuff does.

It does not, it seems.

"Using Acrylic Gouache will negate this problem altogether – an acrylic binder results in a water-proof paint film that will not reactivate as it is layered."

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cthulu Carl posted:

It does not, it seems.

"Using Acrylic Gouache will negate this problem altogether – an acrylic binder results in a water-proof paint film that will not reactivate as it is layered."

Hell yeah, awesome.

I got 60ml of the mars black for painting bases and other stuff and was so paranoid I messed up

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Liquitex Acrylic Gouache is as far as I know indistinguishable from hobby paint except for having the pigments labeled on the bottle and almost never has problems with separating in the bottle.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




rantmo posted:

I was doing an airbrush priming marathon last night with my Badger Patriot and at some point the primer started bubbling out around the threads of the needle cap.

Beeswax on all metal-on-metal contacts in the needle assembly. Don't get any in the paint or air paths.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Teflon tape on the threads and PTFE lubricant (WD40 Dry Lube is great) on the needle will work better and last longer, without being a pain in the rear end to clean and reapply when necessary

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
The most radical heretic in the legion.


Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
lol that kicks rear end

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Electric Hobo posted:

The most radical heretic in the legion.




9/10. No purity seal that says "Do a kickflip!"

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