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What is the melting temp of the silver solder compared to normal lead-free solder (~230 C)? At higher temps, rosin may burn. I don't think you need very active flux if you clean the brass well first.
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Aug 20, 2023 18:33
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Are there any hard to replace items on a south bend 10 or comparable clone? You just swap out the bearings, new belt and touch up any particularly egregious rust spots and you're good to go for another 20 years of hobbyist use? Seems like they trade hands on local Craigslist at least fairly regularly
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Aug 20, 2023 21:53
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Hadlock posted:Are there any hard to replace items on a south bend 10 or comparable clone? You just swap out the bearings, new belt and touch up any particularly egregious rust spots and you're good to go for another 20 years of hobbyist use? Seems like they trade hands on local Craigslist at least fairly regularly I have a 9 and you most definitely don't swap out bearings on the reg. They should be fine. Lash on the cross feed......that's one you're likely to run into, you can get used to it and be fine, but you probalby want to find some parts and fix it. Same with the feed if you intend to thread with it (lol).
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Aug 20, 2023 21:57
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IDK about clones but our main toolroom lathe is a South Bend heavy 10 from the 60s, or earlier, and it's an extremely solid machine. Headstock bearings are still in perfect shape as far as I can measure, even after decades of student use. No runout. Crossfeed backlash is the big one, yeah. I really need to get a new nut for ours because it has like .150" lol. If you hook up a DRO or just are good with your technique, and use the crossfeed lock, it's not a huge deal though. The idlers to engage the gearbox tend to wear and get noisy. You can replace them, or just do the secret stupid trick I did, which is swap the forward and reverse idlers. The forward one may be worn but the reverse is likely almost untouched so that's a quick fix that quiets it right down. The stock lantern-style toolpost sucks, they all suck no matter what lathe they're on, so get a QCTP instead and don't look back. I can't think of any other problems. Keep oil cups filled (I use gear oil for the gearbox and Vactra everywhere else) and it should run for centuries
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Aug 20, 2023 22:54
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Sagebrush posted:I can't think of any other problems. Keep oil cups filled (I use gear oil for the gearbox and Vactra everywhere else) and it should run for centuries I actually have a chart and the 5 different kinds of oil. I know it's totally unnecessary, especially for my three times a year usage. But I like it anyway.
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Aug 20, 2023 23:32
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I would also like to have this chart! Can you take a picture? We have at least 5 different kinds of oil in the storage closet
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Aug 20, 2023 23:34
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Sagebrush posted:I would also like to have this chart! Can you take a picture? We have at least 5 different kinds of oil in the storage closet I did one better and found the source crappy jpeg I printed it from, in my "lathe" folder:  There used to be people/someone on ebay the repackaged these oil into sensible sized containers for a hobbiest because some/all are only available in 5 gal pail minimum but that doesn't seem to be a thing anymore. All I'm stting are $100+ kits with oils that include felt rebuild kits, which I definitely do not need but might be useful for other people at that price. E: Also in that folder:  I just think it's super cool that southbend was able to pull the build card for my lathe. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Aug 20, 2023 |
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Aug 20, 2023 23:45
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Motronic posted:I did one better and found the source crappy jpeg I printed it from, in my "lathe" folder: hmmm even the oil vendors seem to imply people are overthinking it, mobil's product page for Vactra Medium Heavy, one of the "Type C" oils on that chart calls it "an economical blend for reservoir and flow through applications where contamination and leakage is unavoidable and wear additives are unneccessary" which I am reading as "We're not worrying about the spec too much because it's going to fall out of the machine before it goes bad anyway" shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Aug 21, 2023 |
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Aug 21, 2023 03:23
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That is alarmingly cool that not only were they able to pull the build card for your lathe, but also that they were able to do so for one built in goddamn 1945. Jesus Christ. Ok sounds like a 9 might be fine too. Just didn't want to buy something that's an unrecoverable piece of junk In other news, I can't tell if the drill doctor 750x is a sham-wow/flex seal product, or actually good? Or do I need to just learn to sharpen my drill bits by hand or buy the $50 jig
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Aug 21, 2023 07:48
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shame on an IGA posted:"We're not worrying about the spec too much because it's going to fall out of the machine before it goes bad anyway" That's probably entirely accurate.
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Aug 21, 2023 13:24
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Hadlock posted:That is alarmingly cool that not only were they able to pull the build card for your lathe, but also that they were able to do so for one built in goddamn 1945. Jesus Christ. learn 2 grind it isn't that hard and pays many dividends when you need a really weird lathe tool and can just pull an $8 HSS blank out and make it
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Aug 21, 2023 13:45
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Big thanks to ryanrs for recommending Alan Steel. Went there today and picked up everything I was looking for. I managed to get all the sheet metal and plate stock I need from their cutoffs inside of $100. Also the cat is excellent, 10/10
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Aug 21, 2023 22:34
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Aug 21, 2023 22:37
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So apparently 3003 aluminum sheet is half the price of 5000 or 7000 series aluminum. That's what they said anyways. 4x10 of 0.040 was $110, but it's special order so couple days turn around. Fine for hobbyist timeline Moose was out of 20' sticks of thin wall 0.5" square tubing but had plenty of pre cut 10' sticks so they just waived the cut fee 
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Aug 22, 2023 02:15
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I need to cut ~9 cookie sheet sized pieces out of my 0.040 aluminum, plus a number of hand+ strips and joining plates (12? 15?) etc In a drawer I have a pair of metal shears I last used when I was 9, as well as a decent selection (6?) of metal files. Do I need to spring for the $65 metal nibbler from harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/5-amp-14-gauge-metal-shears-64609.html Or just use the hand tools and struggle through it
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Aug 22, 2023 05:53
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Hadlock posted:I need to cut ~9 cookie sheet sized pieces out of my 0.040 aluminum, plus a number of hand+ strips and joining plates (12? 15?) etc Give it a try? Alternatively, for $13 on eBay or a lil more on Amazon you can get a metal nibbler drill attachment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295059035965
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Aug 22, 2023 10:29
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Anyone going to FabTech in Chicago?
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Aug 22, 2023 14:20
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Yooper posted:Anyone going to FabTech in Chicago? I'm gonna try this year.
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Aug 22, 2023 15:19
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Don't hit reload people. It's dangerous.
Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Aug 22, 2023 |
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Aug 22, 2023 15:19
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Yooper posted:Anyone going to FabTech in Chicago? Aiming for it, work should get me in for free
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Aug 22, 2023 15:49
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Cool, I might be there too, juggling my schedule. Maybe we can meet up for an overpriced McCormick Place slice of lukewarm pizza.
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Aug 22, 2023 15:59
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Hadlock posted:I need to cut ~9 cookie sheet sized pieces out of my 0.040 aluminum, plus a number of hand+ strips and joining plates (12? 15?) etc A circular saw with a metal specific blade is my go-to for cutting up aluminum sheet. I have cut 5/8ths aluminum plate with a circular saw but that was pushing it a bit.
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Aug 23, 2023 13:55
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found why the power feed isn't working
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Aug 25, 2023 02:26
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Your mechanical computer is smooth brained.
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Aug 25, 2023 02:46
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Metal supplier today: "Uhh your sheet aluminum arrived, but it's got a giant dent in the middle and a big crease down one side is that ok?" "Well I'm gonna trim it to fit and rivet it on as the final body work so it needs to look really good and clean" "Oh so you're gonna run it through an English wheel first, this is fine?" 
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Aug 25, 2023 05:58
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Sagebrush posted:found why the power feed isn't working Nothin some braze and file won’t fix!
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Aug 25, 2023 10:10
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arguably true. also ain't nobody got time for that poo poo
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Aug 25, 2023 14:28
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Questions that make you go  Can you rivet through bondo? I have a hoop of 1/4 square tubing with a single low spot (about 1.5" long) and the sheet metal will probably do weird crinkly things without a lot of extra work
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Aug 29, 2023 20:06
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Bondo doesn't take compression loads, like, at all. The rivet will crack it.
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Aug 29, 2023 20:42
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Some kind of epoxy/JB Weld might work, especially if I understand correctly and the rivet head won't be bearing directly on the epoxy but rather on the sheet metal on top of it.
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Aug 29, 2023 20:46
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I'd second a jbweld/epoxy or shimming the area under the rivet head up to the right height, might be easier to work with than epoxy. Also if you aren't using clicos/skin pins they're super helpful as temporary fasteners and checking fitment before doing your permanent rivet.
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Aug 29, 2023 21:05
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Super glue a washer or shim. The rivet will hold it there later.
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Aug 29, 2023 21:12
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Hadlock posted:Questions that make you go IIRC Bondo is a combo of polyester fiberglass resin and talc. So no, no you can not. Nthing using some 2-part epoxy. It takes long to sand but you dont look like a dick for using it.
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Aug 30, 2023 04:29
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Is it actually possible to "heat treat" a piece of steel with a torch by heating it red hot and then either dumping it in water or letting it air cool? There's probably a lot of questions that smart goons will ask about it so I'll try to answer what I can. Trying to make a piece of steel in to a yet to be determined shape and grind and/or file some teeth in to it. Hoping to do something that will help those teeth keep an edge. Its likely going to be a one off piece so sending it for commercial treatment isn't likely an option. Item is going to get dropped in to some SCH40 pvc pipe and will hopefully (via the teeth) wedge itself in there so the pipe can be pulled from the ground. A while back I asked about a similar thing and was told that Mild, cold or hot rolled steel can;t be heat treated so what, if any types of steel can be treated by torch?
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Aug 30, 2023 13:23
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Carbon steels like C45 can be heat treated, tool steels like O2, lots of other stuff I can't name.
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Aug 30, 2023 13:29
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1084 is probably the easiest
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Aug 30, 2023 13:31
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Is it actually possible to "heat treat" a piece of steel with a torch by heating it red hot and then either dumping it in water or letting it air cool? I've watched a lot of forged in fire, so clearly I'm an expert. Water quenching will crack the poo poo out of your steel unless you brine it to hell. You want to make a jig or hold it so it doesn't crash into the bottom and shatter, then just pull it out of the pipe. Heating your metal over open flame can get it hot enough, but you risk it getting too hot and destroying the steel. E: you can heat specific elements with a blow torch and quench them just fine leper khan fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Aug 30, 2023 |
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Aug 30, 2023 13:32
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:A while back I asked about a similar thing and was told that Mild, cold or hot rolled steel can;t be heat treated so what, if any types of steel can be treated by torch? To be explicit, it's the fact that it's mild steel, not the hot or cold rolling that matters. The hopefully thorough enough but still brief enough answer: Technically, every steel can be heat treated, even mild steel; there will be changes in the structure and hardness and ductility and all that bs. But the composition of mild steel means there's really no point, you don't really gain much from it. The suggestion of 1084 is a good one for ease of heat treating, and I'd say 4140; it's a great catch all, also easy to heat treat, durable, good for hammers, punches, tools that will be taking an impact and need to hold up and aren't going to be heated. Seems like a nice match to something I'm imagining your hammer into a pipe and then drag out. It's also hard to damage during the heat treat, unlike other steels that as mentioned can crack or shatter if you handle them badly. Ignore every bit of youtube crap about "under a full moon I'll quench in oil, but if it's humid outside I quench in water;" each individual steel has a spec sheet that'll tell you how it wants to be quenched. As rough categories most steels you run into will be oil, water, or air hardening, relating to the speed of the quench. Some can be quenched in different ways: s7 for example, we use for hot work struck tooling, can be cooled by interrupted oil or air, it's on the slower side. There is a cooling curve that you need to beat and faster is technically "better," but some steels crack if cooled too quickly which is why they quench in oil or air instead of water or even faster, brine. Then there's weird poo poo like molten salts and cyanide heat treating and crazy stuff that's in the ASM book but only comes up at industrial scale. For your purposes, as long as your torch can get the steel hot enough (around 1500-1550 for a lot of common steels, 1730 for stuff like s7, as always check the sheet) you can quench. Steel will be hot and have color in it, everything always says "cherry red" but with a laser thermometer we always feel 1550 is more of a low orange/high red so your eyes may vary. Cherry red has always been around mid/low 1400s to my eyes. Best practice will tell you to hold a piece at temp for x minutes, with +minutes extra for larger volumes, but for your requirements just get the whole thing even and at correct temperature and it'll be fine. If you're throwing this together then it may be worth seeking out a water quenching steel. You can quench in vegetable oil or other easily obtained oils, but if you don't expect to quench anything again it may not be worth buying and then storing or disposing however the several gallons you may need; guess it depends on the size of the part. Tempering is also really important to heat treating, so look that up. You can torch temper but it takes some skill to gauge the timing and not overdo it. If your part fits in a toaster oven that's a great way to be accurate and even. As always, look up the spec sheet. With a good temper you're reducing brittleness/gaining ductility with a minimal reduction in hardness. edit: Based on your use case you don't have to be super accurate with this. An optimal quench has full conversion of your material for maximum hardness, but you don't really need that: you're not making a tooling die going through 100k operations a day year round, you're making something that just needs to be durable and at minimum a bit harder than whatever you're hitting it into. So while a metallurgist might scream, you really just need to pick a tolerant material and get it close enough. vvvv cryogenic hardening is technically not the same as quenching  But you're 100% it's a cool way to heat treat and hell yeah there's some fun poo poo with some crazy chemicals. One day I want to go to an industrial site and see/learn more some of the more wilder processes. I'd have to find the specifics but in the ASM heat treating manual there's funny lines like "be cautious when using lithium salts then placing your material in a cyanide bath, explosions could occur." As well as heating/tempering environments consisting entirely of explosive gases.
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Aug 30, 2023 |
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Aug 30, 2023 14:10
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LN2 is the most fun quench fluid
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Aug 30, 2023 14:19
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I like the processes for stainless steels and super alloys. Some of the CPM knife steels have some really crazy steps too.quote:Solution anneal at 1900-1950°F followed by rapid cooling, usually in water, plus precipitation hardening at 1400°F for 10 hours, furnace cool to 1200°F, hold at 1200°F for a total aging time of 20 hours, followed by air cooling.
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Aug 30, 2023 15:03
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