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Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

slidebite posted:

gently caress companies and their proprietary, handcuffing you poo poo.

Yeah, it sucks. I mean, the brand name starlock blades are probably good quality from what I can tell and they're sold at my closest big box home improvement store but they're really pricy. I looked into getting an adapter to ois 12 but a well reviewed one of those cost about what I paid for the machine (it was used), so I'm probably stuck making do with what I have and possibly getting a different oscillating multitool at some point.

Cat Hatter posted:

Now if they could only just agree on a battery architecture.

That's one of those things that EU legislation could possibly force manufacturers to do. They already forced Apple and Tesla into getting rid of their proprietary charge ports, and from 2027 all electronic consumer devices from phones to EV's sold in the EU will need to have easily swappable batteries for example. You could probably argue that Apple's proprietary connector is better than USB-C, but that's what they come with now anyway, and there's value in grabbing tech companies by the ear and enforcing a standard. But yeah, it would be fantastic if all cordless tools with the same cell count battery packs could mix and match. I want a future where you could use a red charger to top off a green pack before it goes into a blue tool if you wanted to.

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fins
May 31, 2011

Floss Finder

Cat Hatter posted:

I was just thinking about those cool lasers that burn rust off parts. What would happen if you pointed one at an unclean white fiberglass bathtub? Would it do nothing because the grime isn't dark enough or sensitive to the right wavelength or whatever? Would it perfectly burn all the soap scum off, leaving behind a clean bathtub and a hell of a smell? Would it set the tub on fire like Left Eye?

I'll let you know in ~6 weeks. Have the laser, have the rust cleaning head, have the chiller, don't have the 3 phase. The rust cleaning lasers are all 1064nm ish, fiberglass itself cuts well with CO2 lasers, but the whole gelcoat/expoxy fiberglass interaction makes it hard to figure out what exactly will happen. My money says it'll be fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTgPqZUPPyI

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

fins posted:

I'll let you know in ~6 weeks. Have the laser, have the rust cleaning head, have the chiller, don't have the 3 phase. The rust cleaning lasers are all 1064nm ish, fiberglass itself cuts well with CO2 lasers, but the whole gelcoat/expoxy fiberglass interaction makes it hard to figure out what exactly will happen. My money says it'll be fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTgPqZUPPyI

Eagerly awaiting trip report.

Lol at that dude cleaning soot off an LED lightbulb and what I'm assuming was an Australian flag.

At least something positive came from me getting mild food poisoning and spending too much time staring at my shower I haven't cleaned in a week and, to be honest, I kinda half assed it too.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
How good is this style of battery tester?

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/USE95270

I understand that there might be differences in quality between a Princess Auto brand one and something from a more legit source, but aside from hooking it up and the gauge showing "yup, you got 12 volts there pal" are they really any good?

When you hit the load test button do you get a reasonably accurate reading/test result? Don't care necessarily about high precision, more about a general idea of
"yup she's good; nope, bad or Meh, its not great but not completely hosed".

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Hey, haven't seen a proper load tester in a while. My highschool auto shop teacher used to swear by them: "If you can't cook hotdogs on it, it's not really testing your battery". They're simple enough I can't imagine a company not able to build one that works. Flip side of that is I'm not sure if that's too expensive for one, but jumper cables are expensive too so who knows?

That said, I'm usually a proponent of taking your battery to the auto parts store for them to check because it's free and if your battery is hosed you'll need a new one anyway.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

How good is this style of battery tester?

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/USE95270

I understand that there might be differences in quality between a Princess Auto brand one and something from a more legit source, but aside from hooking it up and the gauge showing "yup, you got 12 volts there pal" are they really any good?

When you hit the load test button do you get a reasonably accurate reading/test result? Don't care necessarily about high precision, more about a general idea of
"yup she's good; nope, bad or Meh, its not great but not completely hosed".

That better than a quick tester by far, but still not a real carbon pile, which is the only possible way to be sure. Even the parts stores don't have them anymore/let them sit in the back broken.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

When I was a youngster working at an auto parts store, that's exactly the style we used.

Ah, the memories, loving around with the load tester burning poo poo and spilling battery acid everywhere when filling the batteries... :allears:

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Motronic posted:

That better than a quick tester by far, but still not a real carbon pile, which is the only possible way to be sure. Even the parts stores don't have them anymore/let them sit in the back broken.

Why is a real carbon pile the only way to be sure? It can't be hard to build a dummy load with a heat sink and a fan, can it?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Safety Dance posted:

Why is a real carbon pile the only way to be sure? It can't be hard to build a dummy load with a heat sink and a fan, can it?

Okay, it's the only way to know safely inside of an hour. You can absolutely do various levels of charge and then slow discharge and measure for testing, but I'm talking about a reasonable commercial application.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Safety Dance posted:

Why is a real carbon pile the only way to be sure? It can't be hard to build a dummy load with a heat sink and a fan, can it?

Motronic posted:

Okay, it's the only way to know safely inside of an hour. You can absolutely do various levels of charge and then slow discharge and measure for testing, but I'm talking about a reasonable commercial application.

I think the missing link here might be that a carbon pile does that without needing any help coping with the juice running through it (afaik)

anything else that can provide that resistive load is gonna be way more complex.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

quote:

A carbon pile resistor is made of a stack of carbon disks compressed between two metal contact plates. Adjusting the clamping pressure changes the resistance between the plates. These resistors are used when an adjustable load is required, such as in testing automotive batteries or radio transmitters.

Today I learned, thanks. I guess you could do the same thing with a decade box of power resistors, but probably not as well?

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Safety Dance posted:

Today I learned, thanks. I guess you could do the same thing with a decade box of power resistors, but probably not as well?

Lots of power resistors are carbon if I remember EE labs correctly.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

I think the missing link here might be that a carbon pile does that without needing any help coping with the juice running through it (afaik)

anything else that can provide that resistive load is gonna be way more complex.

They still need to be actively cooled.

You can do it the slow way with a heat sink on a single digit watt resistor and current shunt I suppose......

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
The problem with trying to load test a battery with a smaller load is peukerts law. The battery might support a 10 watt load fine but that cannot be extrapolated to mean it will handle a 1800 watt load like a starter motor.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

The problem with trying to load test a battery with a smaller load is peukerts law. The battery might support a 10 watt load fine but that cannot be extrapolated to mean it will handle a 1800 watt load like a starter motor.

.....an actual EE enters the chat.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Gonna be doing a fluid change on a ZF8 this week. The pan bolts require 4 Nm +45 degrees(10 Nm) torque. My 3/8" torque wrench doesn't go this low so I happily grabbed a 1/4" tekton torque wrench since I "need" one anyway. The bolts also happen to be T40. T40 sockets seem to pretty universally be 3/8" so I also got to grab a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter :v:

I still need to start grabbing M12 stuff as well but am hoping to catch some good sales for that and I haven't seen any since I started mildly looking.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fknlo posted:

The pan bolts require 4 Nm +45 degrees(10 Nm) torque.

I'm not a "snap on guy" but I've been buying their ratchets and torque wrenches forever, as an exception to this. The atech2f125 that I got a few months back is great for a lot of reasons, but the first time I had to use it for angle torque I realized there is no going back.

The particular one I have is too big for what you're doing (it's an oddball that is good for engine work with an extended range to work for most wheel lugs also) but all of that series does angle torque the same way.

I'm big on mechanical tools that you can just service and run forever, but......I don't care that this thing needs batteries. It's just so good and so accurate....way more so than even my snap on mechanicals throughout its range.

Also, why did I never think to buy a flex head torque wrench before this?



Thank you for listening to my ted talk.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

CDI makes the torque wrenches for snap on, and they are indeed nice.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Thanks for the answers Re: the battery tester. Just looking for something to do quick and dirty checks when a parts store might not be convenient like in the woods or some poo poo like that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Thanks for the answers Re: the battery tester. Just looking for something to do quick and dirty checks when a parts store might not be convenient like in the woods or some poo poo like that.

If you're looking for quick and dirty just get one of the stupid electronic only testers. They will absolutely tell you when a battery is bad, but "pass" results may not always be reliable.

Also, who the hell cares about whether a battery passes testing "in the woods". You don't have options to replace it so it is what it is.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Anything better than This lisle 8 qt dispenser for oil changes? One car takes about 7 quarts so the larger one is probably necessary.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
What are you trying to accomplish over just using a funnel?

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

eddiewalker posted:

What are you trying to accomplish over just using a funnel?

I have 4 to 5 cars I do at least a yearly change on with one getting a change every 9-10 weeks or so. That would make it nice and easy to just have the proper amount of oil ready to go instead of dicking around with 5 quart jugs and random quarts and poo poo.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

fknlo posted:

I have 4 to 5 cars

Thread title for every thread in AI

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



It’s tough to keep track of these things goddamit

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I'm actually down to 2.5 at this point. Feels weird man. My wife actually has more than I do right now, though one is technically the house, so I'm not sure if that counts or not.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

fknlo posted:

I have 4 to 5 cars I do at least a yearly change on with one getting a change every 9-10 weeks or so. That would make it nice and easy to just have the proper amount of oil ready to go instead of dicking around with 5 quart jugs and random quarts and poo poo.

That actually makes a lot of sense. Premeasure it out from a bulk storage situation. Mise en place for auto maintenence.

Temporarily we are a six car household but I really want to get down to 4.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

StormDrain posted:

Tools! - Mise en place for auto maintenence.

Good thread title material there.

I think the I have x cars always needs the and y run modifier. Like I'm currently at 3 cars and 2 run. At one point it was 5 cars and 1 runs. The ratio matters.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

fknlo posted:

Anything better than This lisle 8 qt dispenser for oil changes? One car takes about 7 quarts so the larger one is probably necessary.

Opposite end of the equation, anyone have any halfway decent drain pans they could recommend?

The last one I bought was supposed to hold oil, but the cap is super janky and poorly threaded so it always leaks in some way, the plug in the center closed itself in the middle of draining last time so I had to stick my hand into a pool of oil to pop it up before it overflowed... like I've been through 2-3 oil pans and they all universally suck. Is there anything better out there? Or should I try to find a bleeder nipple drain plug I can attach a hose to or something?

Edit after some googling: Ok, it's 195$, but this is pretty freakin slick

Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Aug 27, 2023

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

StormDrain posted:

That actually makes a lot of sense. Premeasure it out from a bulk storage situation.

Yup. Trying to get the proper oil amounts out of 5qt jugs is fairly annoying and individual quarts or packs of them are significantly more expensive. Then 2 of the cars don't even have dipsticks so you don't even get to wing it that easily.


Catatron Prime posted:

Opposite end of the equation, anyone have any halfway decent drain pans they could recommend?

The last one I bought was supposed to hold oil, but the cap is super janky and poorly threaded so it always leaks in some way, the plug in the center closed itself in the middle of draining last time so I had to stick my hand into a pool of oil to pop it up before it overflowed... like I've been through 2-3 oil pans and they all universally suck. Is there anything better out there? Or should I try to find a bleeder nipple drain plug I can attach a hose to or something?

Edit after some googling: Ok, it's 195$, but this is pretty freakin slick

I use this one. I wouldn't trust it to be completely sealed but you get a lot of wiggle room, especially if it's sitting upright. You should be able to find it at most local auto parts stores I think.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Catatron Prime posted:

Edit after some googling: Ok, it's 195$, but this is pretty freakin slick

A Fumoto or EZ Oil Drain run about $20-30 instead and both offer a hose nipple you can screw on.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

fknlo posted:

I use this one. I wouldn't trust it to be completely sealed but you get a lot of wiggle room, especially if it's sitting upright. You should be able to find it at most local auto parts stores I think.

This is what I run too, and also yeah they all kind of suck a little. This one is annoying because you get to clean it when you're done so you can take it to the oil recycler. The cap is fine but I'm not real confident in it's sealing ability.

I bought the cheapest open pan they sell so I could just transfer to a jug and it doesn't pour right. The design of the pour spout doesn't work and it creates a too wide stream and overflows funnels. I had another jug and the cap completely stripped it's threads.

So now I use that one linked above and I have another jug for overflow storage.

Also don't forget to open the breather cap before you start! It's actually super important!!

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/flotool-super-duty-24-quart-drain-container-42004mi/10658442-P

I bought one of these forever ago. I filled it with oil and left it upside down for a half hour and nothing leaked out, not even from the snap shut breather a bunch of people say is defective. When stored upright, all the oil is below the three openings anyway. They're also sold at O'Reilly's, (I think) Northern Tool, and possibly other places.

I don't know why Blitz can't make an oil pan that has threads that don't leak. Their gas cans don't leak. poo poo, even Coke and Pepsi make tons of threaded caps every day for pennies that don't leak.

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


The only one of those drain pan storage container combos I've used seemed have been specifically designed to make as big of a mess as possible. Now I just use a normal pan and drain it into a separate container which mostly works.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

Galler posted:

The only one of those drain pan storage container combos I've used seemed have been specifically designed to make as big of a mess as possible. Now I just use a normal pan and drain it into a separate container which mostly works.

This is probably the route I'd go if I had to replace the other pan. I just transfer it over to jugs to have recycled anyway. It ended up being a lot of jugs when I took them in a few weeks ago. I go through a lot of oil in a year...

In other tool talk, I bought this fluid pump/extractor to do the transmission fluid on the zf8 after one of the DIY's I watched had a guy look like he was going to die using one of the little bottle pump things. It worked great and I highly recommend. There are cheaper versions on Amazon too and it made the job so much better.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Galler posted:

The only one of those drain pan storage container combos I've used seemed have been specifically designed to make as big of a mess as possible. Now I just use a normal pan and drain it into a separate container which mostly works.

This is what I use, and it gets dumped into a 5 gallon bucket.

The biggest problem with it is that it's an open pan of dirty oil so all tools are immediately attracted to it. It's like dirty oil gives it it's own gravity or something.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Falling into the drain pan is how my tools stay lubricated, it’s just normal maintenance. Another vote for open drain pan dumped into 5 gal buckets. Get good gasketed lids.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Big Taint posted:

Falling into the drain pan is how my tools stay lubricated, it’s just normal maintenance. Another vote for open drain pan dumped into 5 gal buckets. Get good gasketed lids.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I learned the hard way that the 996 drains all 9.5L of oil so fast the drain/storage unit can't swallow it fast enough so it will overflow.

I have to use just a standard open pan and then pour it into empty milk jugs for the trip to hazmat recycling.

Big Taint posted:

Falling into the drain pan is how my tools stay lubricated, it’s just normal maintenance.
lol

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Who doesn't enjoy fishing for a drain plug after you realized you had the engine too drat hot?

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