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bsamu posted:I recently did my first trackday in a long time (9 years!) and it's got me wanting more and also to make my bike more fun to ride. There's a few things I'm curious about. Bike is an 04 SV650, by the way. 1) Rebuild the brake calipers and maybe the master cylinder. Or if you want to get spendy 2) Buy SV1000 calipers, a rebuild kit, and the Brembo RCS BMC. My factory brakes were extremely spongey. Then I went with option 2 without rebuilding the calipers and it was still spongey. Rebuilding the calipers made the brake feels super firm. I haven't had a chance to do a trackday with the sc1k calipers rebuilt because it's been 105° for what feels like all summer and I don't like getting heat exhaustion at the track.
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Aug 18, 2023 02:06
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If the brakes are grabby and jerky you probably need to lube the lever and the caliper slider pins. The pulsation is because you have a hosed rotor, although it might just be seized rotor buttons which you can free up. The best bang for buck really depends on how much buck you have and how much bang you want. A good solution is as above, 4 piston calipers + a matching MC. A cheaper solution is braided lines, rebuild the hydraulics and the most aggressive sintered pads you can get. The ultimate solution is an entire gsxr600 front end which has the bonus of improving the handling a great deal, but then you also have to swap out the rear shock to match. Getting a second wheel set is a good idea, any wheels you buy are not likely to be buckled to the point of uselessness; if you can't see a problem with the naked eye they'll probably be fine, it's not really a thing I'd worry about. Loads of track bikes have dinged up wheels and it doesn't really matter very much. The cast alloy wheels on a modernish bike are one of the more resilient parts. Feeling what the tyres are doing comes from a holistic approach ie you have to have actually good tires that it's possible to run near the limit confidently (pilot roads are not in this category imo), suspension that lets you approach the grip limit without hitting instability first (the stock SV suspension doesn't really allow this imo), having enough understanding to break the corners up into their component parts and understanding what the bike is doing and what you need to do so you can approach the limit progressively instead of crashing through it blindly in any given part, and finally the physical skill and practice to execute all this on the bike in real time.
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Aug 18, 2023 02:28
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Slavvy posted:
It was the buttons on my 919. Clamp each with a small nut/bolt and blast with brake cleaner while spinning with a drill/impact. On mine all sorts of crud came out and they all freed up, no more shudder under braking.
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Aug 18, 2023 04:15
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Pilot roads and SVs are not the greatest combination. Am very happy that i switched away from them. Buttons on my SV were crusty too. And after 23 years the brakes were about 5 years overdue for a complete overhaul. You should check yours out for any gelatinous gunk that has accumulated over time. It's not that much newer. But that has nothing to do with the pulsing, though LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Aug 18, 2023 |
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Aug 18, 2023 08:33
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Hm, talking about the rotor buttons reminded me that I'd tried that in the past. (Which you can learn about by just checking my post history in this thread over the past decade, lol). I'll figure out how to check if the buttons are spinning freely before I attempt another clean of them so I can understand if I'm making a difference there. Re: new wheels/tires, cool. I'd love to have some flexibility to have a track-focused tire but not give up the Roads' ability to just eat up highway miles. Maybe I'll just end up not swapping back and forsake Pilot Roads forever but I'm not sure yet. And then regarding overall brake feel, I suppose I have some flexibility on price but I'm wary of dumping a bunch of money into the bike if the correct and better alternative is to just buy a different bike. I don't know if that "different bike" is something completely new or just an SV that already has a front-end swap. There are a few of those SVs on the local market that I can see... I'm also wary of the process of buying used parts from crashed bikes and being competent enough to tell when something is "too crashed" or what parts need to be replaced. I don't think I need more outright braking potential, just improved feel, so I'm leaning towards a rebuild of the existing MC + calipers or a 4 piston upgrade like the sv1000 + MC swap. One challenge with MC rebuild kits and working on a bike this old is, where do you find trustworthy parts? I don't want to trust my braking system to amazon's algorithm. If i made up some numbers, rebuilding the MC + Calipers would be like $80 in parts, replacing both (and presumably rebuilding) would be like $400 in parts. Putting new parts on the bike is way more fun than just cleaning up what's on there, though... I'll ponder that this weekend while I re-clean the rotor buttons and look for some wheels. Thanks for being a fount of helpful motorcycle knowledge, CA.
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Aug 18, 2023 13:34
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IMO if you are getting towards things like whole front end and shock replacement you may as well just get a better bike. In a similar zone I've just bought a gold back wheel for a fireblade SP off ebay, the fronts are (maybe predictably) more hard to come by so I may have to get a new OEM one. I guess I can swap over the brake discs and ABS sensor rings though that feels like a pain.
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Aug 18, 2023 15:36
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I think there is value in upgrading your existing bike because it lets you directly experience the difference and learn more about bike setup and associated dynamics. Most bikes are going to need work once you get fast enough. 60-80hp bikes are good for track because it’s enough power you can get past slower riders but not so much you don’t have to work at it. My bike isn’t even 30hp, and it’s super satisfying chasing down riders on 600s.
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Aug 18, 2023 19:08
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The seal on my fuel cap is all hard and dry, is that something I can or should kinda-sorta revive by rubbing oil of wintergreen into it, or am I looking at a new cap? Naturally Kawi doesn't list a part number for just a new seal here otherwise it wouldn't be a question, I'd just buy that. (Also lol that one of the flavouring compounds in root beer is also used as a rubber treatment)
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Aug 18, 2023 20:28
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Phy posted:The seal on my fuel cap is all hard and dry, is that something I can or should kinda-sorta revive by rubbing oil of wintergreen into it, or am I looking at a new cap? Naturally Kawi doesn't list a part number for just a new seal here otherwise it wouldn't be a question, I'd just buy that. The seal on my SV tank looked pretty dry rotted. I wound up replacing it with one of the silly track bike caps since Suzuki also did not sell replacement seals (just a complete gas cap and lock mechanism). My only complaint with the cap I bought is that there is no retaining mechanism so you need to balance the cap somewhere and not drop it or lose it when refueling. This is the wrong model year part, but this base: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/driven-halo-fuel-cap-base-suzuki-sv650-s-99-02/ And one of these caps: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/driven-halo-fuel-cap/
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Aug 18, 2023 20:36
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I've thought about disassembling a replacement cap and just taking the seal off, and transplanting that to the old cap. I seem to remember that it's possible to do this without disturbing the pins in the lock.
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Aug 19, 2023 02:49
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How important is rear shock upper and lower mounting torque? It's specced at 44ftlbs\59nm. I can see there are prevailing torque locknuts on the mounts. I have an YSS adjustable hi\lo speed shock I've been sitting on all summer due to other projects. I can get the bike on a center stand and like get a wrench in there, probably, and replace it. But there's no way I'm getting a torque wrench on the bottom without a bike lift and getting under it. 44ftlbs is kinda barely an umpf. DIY or should I just have the shop do it when I have my valves checked this winter? If I was to do it by hand it'd probably fall within 30-50. Edit: Nevermind, when I put the bike on the center stand and the swingarm stretched, the linkage moved out of the way. Edit 2: drat the Versys X 300 center stand made that the easiest swap in the world. More bikes need easy ways to lift from the center. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Aug 19, 2023 |
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Aug 19, 2023 15:52
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Centerstands were a boon on mankind and their extirpation from the bike market in North America is the reason bean counters are going to HELL aka their cozy paid-off home with loving family and comfortable retirements, sigh
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Aug 20, 2023 03:28
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The new suspension feels great on busted up upstate NY roads. My bike has always had a very weird resonance around 7500 rpm. It was a very loud, ear piercing ringing. It stops by 7800 rpm. It would happen even in neutral. I did check that the exhaust manifold seemed well attached. The new suspension is aluminum. The noise is gone. What the hell? Was my old suspension somehow transferring engine vibration to the swingarm and making it a giant tuning fork? The new suspension is aluminum which is definitely a harmonically more dead metal. Edit: There was no grease in the linkages either, one of them has a basic bearing, not a ball bearing. That to me seems weird. While the linkages had torque prevailing locknuts installed...is it possible the assembler didn't do them to spec at all, and the shock was vibrating in the mount a bit? It's completely bizarre and maybe that makes more sense, given other weird assembly issues, like air in the cooling that Slavvy pointed out. It's a 2020 but at this point the bike is out of warranty. Who the hell knows, I'm glad the noise is gone, it was terrible. Edit 2, morbid curiosity:  Absolutely this poo poo was bone dry, never saw grease. The O rings maybe had some Vaseline on them. I did remove and inspected the bearings\bushings. Dry and shiny. I lubed it assuming, shadetree mechanic 101. Didn't confirm till just now. I am actually pissed now. gently caress Kawasaki, or the dealership, or whoever put my bike together and the QA around it. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 22, 2023 |
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Aug 20, 2023 20:22
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It's been well over a decade since I played this game: I have a motorcycle to sell with good photos, a written description, and the pink slip. What's the most efficient way to lose a bike in 2023, in terms of $/time?
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Aug 24, 2023 15:06
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If you're in the U.S., Facebook marketplace seems to flip stuff way faster than craigslist, though they're both free to post so there's no reason not to use both. I found my last bike on cycletrader but pretty sure the only people posting ads there are the olds.
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Aug 24, 2023 15:30
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:It's been well over a decade since I played this game: I have a motorcycle to sell with good photos, a written description, and the pink slip. What's the most efficient way to lose a bike in 2023, in terms of $/time? Oh hey, I just sold my bike last week. It did take a little over a month to get close to what I wanted for it. I posted on craigslist, facebook marketplace, and cycletrader. By far the largest volume of traffic was on facebook, however this was also a ton of tire kickers and low ballers. The best signal to noise was craigslist and ultimately where the buyer came from, though FB could have had a buyer too if I were willing to drop $500. I would only even consider posting on cycletrader if you have a very nice condition, relatively low mile, and probably sub 10 year old bike, OR something higher end like a ducati 996 or similar. Remy Marathe posted:If you're in the U.S., Facebook marketplace seems to flip stuff way faster than craigslist, though they're both free to post so there's no reason not to use both. I found my last bike on cycletrader but pretty sure the only people posting ads there are the olds. CL charges $5 to post now, which is basically nothing when talking about a motorcycle, but it has made a significant impact on listing volume there and pretty much the reason that FB has really come on as the new largest platform. TheBacon fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Aug 24, 2023 |
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Aug 24, 2023 15:48
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the barrier to posting ads on CL also seems to have come with a massive drop in overall traffic - both sellers and people looking to buy - which SUCKS b/c FB marketplace is a goddamn cesspool. I've listed a couple of items for sale there and probably 80% of responses are organized Zelle scammers
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Aug 24, 2023 17:24
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Jazzzzz posted:the barrier to posting ads on CL also seems to have come with a massive drop in overall traffic - both sellers and people looking to buy - which SUCKS b/c FB marketplace is a goddamn cesspool. I've listed a couple of items for sale there and probably 80% of responses are organized Zelle scammers Yeah I definitely had way more scammers there, I do think it is market dependent a little now, Seattle area seemed fine, the Bay Area was definitely still popping. You are right though that overall traffic on CL is definitely down.
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Aug 24, 2023 17:34
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I've had luck with Offerup also. Seems more active than Craigslist, probably less than FB. I rate the annoyance level of Offerup as between Craigslist and FB, way more annoying than Craigslist but still not nearly as annoying as FB marketplace.
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Aug 24, 2023 18:53
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I'm trying to think of what I bought my WR from, maybe it was facebook ... Its kind of funny because I don't really look at craigslist anymore. I felt like the communication was awful exchanging emails etc and you were waiting on hearing back from someone via an email. Depending on what you're buying, some older folks weren't great at digital exchange etc. Now with smart phones, a notification or message pops right up. Most of my purchases/sales have been from offer up or marketplace. If I were selling a vehicle maybe I would also post it on craigslist to cast a wider net but its tough when facebook marketplace has pretty much taken over. Gone are the days of looking through cycle trader magazine at the grocery store.
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Aug 24, 2023 21:41
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I still cross list to CL out of habit, but I haven't sold a single thing there in years. Everyone is on Marketplace now. Which is garbage tier, especially when it comes to filters for vehicles.
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Aug 24, 2023 22:55
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I don’t think the Zelle scammers and Facebook marketplace are related. They’re just there because it’s the most popular. If CL was still the big player they’d be there
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Aug 25, 2023 23:10
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You have to admit, though, FB adding marketplace was a pretty smart move - they already had messaging, and people are already used to posting/uploading poo poo from their phones. I find it interesting how different apps (kijiji, used.com, CL etc.) are popular in different areas, but again, FB marketplace is ubiquitous because of Facebook. Want to know what's for sale in a different city/region? Set your location there, and away you go.
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Aug 26, 2023 08:15
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The big advantage for marketplace, and I would argue the main reason marketplace is killing CL, is Facebook messenger. As someone who has waited for a week for some boomer to reach their regularly scheduled email check in and then waited another week for the reply, the real-time-ness of messenger is a godsend.
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Aug 26, 2023 14:32
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Hi is this available
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Aug 26, 2023 15:39
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Beve Stuscemi posted:As someone who has waited for a week for some boomer to reach their regularly scheduled email check in and then waited another week for the reply, the real-time-ness of messenger is a godsend. Hello I’m the millennial who hates Facebook and only uses it for marketplace so I check my messages about once a week, nice to meet you. I’d rather deal with slow to respond boomers on Craigslist, they’re far more likely to actually show up and buy/sell something.
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Aug 26, 2023 15:46
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moxieman posted:Hello I’m the millennial who hates Facebook and only uses it for marketplace so I check my messages about once a week, nice to meet you. I mean, that’s fine, but that’s not how 95% of people on marketplace are using it. Goons are uniquely anti-fb, which is fine, Meta are poo poo (and so is marketplace and messenger, by the by, it’s just where the concentration of buyers and sellers are), but goons don’t represent the average
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Aug 26, 2023 20:33
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TotalLossBrain posted:Hi is this available thanks for the flashbacks opengl posted:I still cross list to CL out of habit, but I haven't sold a single thing there in years. Everyone is on Marketplace now. Which is garbage tier, especially when it comes to filters for vehicles. if you try to use it through the web instead of the phone app it won't even show you listings that are actually local most of the time, much less actually prioritize listings by your search terms. there's no way I will install a meta app on my phone so compared to CL it's incredibly frustrating to use my wife doesn't give a poo poo though, so she's the de facto FB sales manager for anything we list
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Aug 27, 2023 08:12
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https://imgur.com/a/E88Sl9K I posted in the newbie thread that my bike was knocked over the other night and doing a once over it looks mostly ok. However I'm a hypochondriac and was wondering in a scale if fine to hosed how does my radiator look? One of the bolts looks like it's bent or set wrong and I don't know if I trust it. Thanks to anyone that gives it a look!
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Aug 27, 2023 22:41
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Looks fine, OP. That bolt might be annoying if you ever have to take the rad out (some bikes you might want to unbolt it to get at spark plugs maybe) but until then I wouldn’t worry about it.
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Aug 27, 2023 22:56
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Extreme UV-ray damage has finally killed my front master cylinder (plastic). It's starting to crack to the point where it's darkening because fluid is leaking out. New master cylinder time. I wanted to order one of those little sleeves that go over the master cylinder to protect it. They're like $10 on ebay. So, aside from me being a cheapass of fine vintage, is there anything I can do otherwise to save myself from buying a $10 scrunchie.
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Aug 28, 2023 02:46
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Do you mean the reservoir? You can just put a wrist sweatband on it.
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Aug 28, 2023 03:27
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How long does this degradation take, have I just been given an excuse to put a wristband on my bike?
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Aug 28, 2023 04:12
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Slide Hammer posted:Extreme UV-ray damage has finally killed my front master cylinder (plastic). It's starting to crack to the point where it's darkening because fluid is leaking out. New master cylinder time. i have had the top of an old sock wrapped around my MC for uhhhhhh the better part of a decade  when it gets too dried out and grungy i cut the top off another old sock and replace it. cost: one old sock
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Aug 28, 2023 04:23
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Remy Marathe posted:How long does this degradation take, have I just been given an excuse to put a wristband on my bike? If you park inside it'll take decades Outside in a hot country a couple of years
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Aug 28, 2023 04:47
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Remy Marathe posted:How long does this degradation take, have I just been given an excuse to put a wristband on my bike? I last replaced this master cylinder about 7 years ago (one of the reservoir cap screws seized in the body and then snapped off when I tried to remove it). The replacement was new. This bike is always outside and uncovered. Over the years, the reservoir gradually became more and more opaque. Today, when I touched it to verify the thing was seeping, the plastic, which was pure white, crumbled. Might be worth noting that all of the paint and clearcoat on this bike is equally shot. Covering permanently-outdoors bikes can help. UV damage is real. Make sure to park them securely on their side stands though, because a cover can act like a sail in strong wind. Sagebrush posted:i have had the top of an old sock wrapped around my MC for uhhhhhh the better part of a decade Wait, it's not a special material? Wouldn't absorbent fabric retain too much water after rain, and rust the reservoir out? Edit: I mean, the master cylinder body. The reservoir is, as mentioned previously, plastic. Its retaining screws aren't, though...
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Aug 28, 2023 04:58
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The master cylinder body is aluminum so it's unlikely to rust But also the brake fluid absorbs atmospheric moisture so if your bike lives outside you need to be flushing that poo poo annually
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Aug 28, 2023 05:02
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My MT07 has oem battleax whatevers on it, its a 2019 so 4-5 years old. 4k miles on them. They lose about 3-5 psi a week. They look fine, no cracks or obvious damage. Any ideas? Valvestem issue?
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Sep 1, 2023 21:30
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Likely the valve stems but those tires are now past it anyway
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Sep 1, 2023 22:19
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Slavvy posted:Likely the valve stems but those tires are now past it anyway Yeah? They dont feel like an old tire, but I am open to suggestions for replacement at this point.
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Sep 1, 2023 22:32
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