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Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

MadlabsRobot posted:

VVVVVVV Well, I was hoping that I could avoid paying up for Lightroom for now and instead use stuff that is free (such as Darktable) or paid for by my work (the Affinity suite). VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

Negadoctor and Darktable?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiNlHBZE888

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bobmarleysghost
Mar 7, 2006



ah. well, check out the nlp vuescan settings anyway, could work, it would at least make your scans as raw as possible before you import into another application.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!
My suggestion for Vuescan settings is to have color balance set to “off”, which should turn off any digital gain Vuescan might apply when set to anything else.

MadlabsRobot
May 1, 2005

I see what you did there....
Grimey Drawer

Nice! That should do the trick.





VoodooXT posted:

My suggestion for Vuescan settings is to have color balance set to “off”, which should turn off any digital gain Vuescan might apply when set to anything else.

Yeah, already had to rescan a roll since I forgot about that...

wedgie deliverer
Oct 2, 2010

I got trained to use a community darkroom where I live. I'm super pumped to start making contact sheets and enlargements. Looking forward to sharing some results here.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

wedgie deliverer posted:

I got trained to use a community darkroom where I live. I'm super pumped to start making contact sheets and enlargements. Looking forward to sharing some results here.

Same - well, not community darkroom, but looking forward to setting one up in the spare bedroom at my new place.

I had to sell/give away nearly all my darkroom gear when I moved (shout out to the guy who waited until the last moment to not pay me for my MOD54 reels) so spent a hundred bucks between B&H and Photographer's Formulary to get back in business. Did not realise that the Paterson 3 reel tank didn't actually come with reels, so had to buy some more on eBay which I'm still waiting on. Got some 120 I shot a few weekends ago that I'm keen to see!

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

If I am already developing rolls of 120 in B&W at home, what is the approximate cost of entry to do B&W prints (let's say ~5x enlargement from 6x6) at home?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I got most of my darkroom stuff for cheap to free. So, as little as $0 if you keep an eye out. At least where I am getting enlargers up to 6x6 is easy, bigger than that starts to become hard. There is a darkroom thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3938540

But, fundamentally, for chemicals the only thing you'll need extra is paper developer. Paper you'll end up spending between $1 - $2 a sheet for 8x10 and for the enlarger, trays, timer and other gear you'll need if you keep an eye out and buy someones entire darkroom I'd expect to pay somewhere between $0 - $200 with patience. Up to $400 if you want right now.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

Megabound posted:

I got most of my darkroom stuff for cheap to free. So, as little as $0 if you keep an eye out. At least where I am getting enlargers up to 6x6 is easy, bigger than that starts to become hard. There is a darkroom thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3938540

But, fundamentally, for chemicals the only thing you'll need extra is paper developer. Paper you'll end up spending between $1 - $2 a sheet for 8x10 and for the enlarger, trays, timer and other gear you'll need if you keep an eye out and buy someones entire darkroom I'd expect to pay somewhere between $0 - $200 with patience. Up to $400 if you want right now.

Yeah, it very much depends on your area and luck of the draw, but if you can be patient darkroom stuff is still generally cheap or even free on up to medium format. I kinda expected prices to take off along with film cameras a few years back, but I guess it's a combination of most of the new people being Millenials/Zoomers who can't afford their own home/a spare room to turn into a darkroom*, or the fact that scanning negs is the easiest way to get those tonez to the 'gram.

4x5 enlargers are not impossible to find, but a bit more specialised. Currently contemplating a 12+ hour round trip drive to Albuquerque to bag one that has a full spread of neg carriers for $100. 8x10 enlargers are pretty rare and stupendously tall.

*neither can I, but most people overestimate how nice a space you need to do wet prints. A closet or bathroom work fine, you don't even need running water in the same room.

MadlabsRobot
May 1, 2005

I see what you did there....
Grimey Drawer
Picked up some camera stuff at a local second hand store, and among it where two "Kodak Fun Flash" disposable cameras. Since they expired around twenty years ago I figure that there is no use in trying to use them as is but maybe I could get something useful out of it if I removed the film and shot it at two stops overexposure. Anyone opened one of these up before, is the film rolled up in the cartridge before being exposed, so it's fine to open it in daylight, or is the film supposed to be wound up in the cartridge during use, so it will get hosed if I just rip into it?


Edit: What ISO would it normally be? It says "Kodak Gold Ultra", could it be 800?

MadlabsRobot fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 1, 2023

big black turnout
Jan 13, 2009



Fallen Rib
A quick Google makes it seem like it's probably in a canister: https://www.shutterjunkies.org/blog/2021/5/4/how-to-get-the-film-out-of-a-disposable-camera

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
I believe with the disposables you advance the film into the canister so the dev lab can just crack the camera open and take out the film roll. As they are made in darkness they get 27 shots, which is using the entirety of the leader in a 24 shot roll of film.

I'm open it in a darkbag or click off 25 shots AND THEN crack it open.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
Mash Buttons!
The film is loaded unwound around a cardboard tube; as you shoot, you are winding the film into the canister. Despite being 20 years old, the film is probably still fine and I would just shoot it at its standard exposure. If you want to extract the film to shoot in a different camera you can cover the lens and shoot all the shots, then use a film extractor to get the lead back out. I think all the rolls I've seen have been ISO 400, but I think the indoor cameras might by 800. In my experience, film from disposable cameras can't be used in cameras with auto-advance as the frame markers on the film aren't in the correct positions. For extra fun you can buy a $6 body cap for your digital camera, drill a hole in it, and glue the disposable lens to it.

wedgie deliverer
Oct 2, 2010

I feel like the biggest hurdle to home darkroom is space. I live in a 1BR/1 Bath, nowhere for me to set one up. If i lived out in the burbs with a more standard home I would convert a spare bathroom or something.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!
A friend of mine in film school lived in a 2br/1b apartment and had her home darkroom in her closet so it's possible but I don't know if anyone's willing to go that far for a darkroom.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

wedgie deliverer posted:

I feel like the biggest hurdle to home darkroom is space. I live in a 1BR/1 Bath, nowhere for me to set one up. If i lived out in the burbs with a more standard home I would convert a spare bathroom or something.

There's plenty of designs where you can have a darkroom cart that you can wheel in and out of your bathroom:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1_d45BFC3Y&t=17s

That Beseler that Ted has is huge, if you're just printing 35mm or up to 6x6 there are some really compact enlargers out there perfect for doing up to 12 x 16. My middle enlarger here is a Lucky and you can see just how small it is, it'll do up to 6x6.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

wedgie deliverer posted:

I feel like the biggest hurdle to home darkroom is space. I live in a 1BR/1 Bath, nowhere for me to set one up. If i lived out in the burbs with a more standard home I would convert a spare bathroom or something.

I set one up in a studio apartment when I lived in Japan, and in a closet when I was in a 1BR in Australia (as a renter in both cases); basically if you want to make it happen you can. You can buy blackout material by the yard/meter from any fabric store, a grommet punch + 100 brass grommets is less than ten bucks, just put your nails/screws in discreetly (on the top side of the moulding above doors/windows is great, nobody will be any the wiser when you move out), use painters or gaffer's tape to seal the deal as needed. A key tenet of budget DIY darkroom design I've found is that two layers of "OK" lightproofing is way easier to set up than one perfect one, and should add up to the same thing.

The Ilford Pop Up Darkroom is another option (back on sale for $200 from B&H!), if you have the room and are on a budget you can also buy a grow tent off eBay and set that up in a corner full time. (They're just as light-tight, but annoying to setup and break down). Although it's really nice to have, you don't actually need running water in your darkroom; I used one of those A4 plastic filing cabinet things for dev/stop/fix then did the rinse in the bathroom in daylight.

Heck, yesterday I literally made a darkroom out of a 27 gallon bin from Home Depot, two bungee cords, and 4 yards of blackout fabric for a collodion shoot*:





*don't use random red LED strips for a traditional silver gelatin darkroom, they're fine for wet plate but will probably fog paper.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
Note to self: orthopanchromatic means don't use a red filter. I got a roll of Rollei Blackbird and I'd wish they'd print this somewhere in the package in very clear terms for idiots like me.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

Havana Affair posted:

Note to self: orthopanchromatic means don't use a red filter. I got a roll of Rollei Blackbird and I'd wish they'd print this somewhere in the package in very clear terms for idiots like me.

Haha, yeah.

Collodion is also orthochromatic, I just ordered some ruby plexiglass yesterday that I'm hoping is close enough to rubylith to build one of these for fieldwork further from my vehicle:

Pondex
Jul 8, 2014

What's your favourite developer for kodak Tmax? I have a lot of expired (10-15 years) 100/400 to play around with but Idk if I can get better results with a different developer.

This is in HC-110. Dil. B. Shot/developed at 400. The negatives/contact-print look really soft but I was able to get an allright print.



eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I always used hc110 with tmax 400, dilution h for 9 minutes at 24c

Pondex
Jul 8, 2014

Actually I think I did the contact-print at filter 0. That's probably why it looks so grey.

Is there any benefit to developing at 24c over 20c?

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Keeps the dev time down, I think it might also increase grain, but grain isn’t a big deal with tmy, especially in 120

lollybo
Dec 29, 2008
First 6 shot on Yashica Electro GSN. I like the lens but I don't love the lack of control for exposure. Mine also seems to underexpose in all dark scenes for some reason.













Last 2 on Zorki 4k with industar 61 lens. I am impressed by how sharp this old and cheap lens is. I heard the quality control is variable, I must have received a good one. Also my first time shooting with just the sunny 16 rule.



[

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I’m currently embarking on my first foray into film since I took photography class in highschool.

I picked up a Pentax ME Super SE (I can’t figure out what makes the SE different, anyone know?) with the 50mm 1.7 lens at goodwill. The shutter wasn’t firing on it, so following a video on YouTube, I took it apart and proceeded to completely gently caress it up even more!

After spending some time meticulously combing through said repair video, I managed to get it back together, and apparently the act of just putting it together made it work again! The shutter fires just fine now and it all seems to work.

I picked up some Fuji 400 because it’s the only thing my local Walmart had and I’m not gonna stick serious money into film until I get a roll developed and at least know that the camera actually works.

Apparently the metering systems on these can get wonky with age, so I’m considering grabbing a metering app to see if it lines up with what the camera suggests. I’m hoping it works because the in-eyepiece metering is pretty neat IMO.

Also because I’m the type of degenerate who buys up old lenses and runs them on a DSLR with adapters, I think I have one or two Pentax K-Mount lenses already that I can try with this body too.

Anyway, that’s my “return to film” story.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Oct 5, 2023

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Apparently the only known difference with the SE is the focus aid is split diagonal instead of horizontal, and nice!

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




That would be the case, it’s a split diagonal focus screen, which I’ve never used before, but it works out nicely.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

Beve Stuscemi posted:


I picked up a Pentax ME Super SE

If you find your meter is hosed and you really like the camera I can vouch for this guy for repairs: https://pentaxs.com/ I sent 2 bodies to him, one with broken buttons and the other a stuck shutter. They came back working great just a couple weeks later for $300. Not a bad price to pay for 2 cameras that I can depend on now.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

a dingus posted:

If you find your meter is hosed and you really like the camera I can vouch for this guy for repairs: https://pentaxs.com/ I sent 2 bodies to him, one with broken buttons and the other a stuck shutter. They came back working great just a couple weeks later for $300. Not a bad price to pay for 2 cameras that I can depend on now.

Interesting that he doesn't do international anymore, he repaired my 6x7 years ago (I'm Canadian).

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Is the black crap on this


related to the poo poo that is going on in the rebate?


How do I fix this?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




How do you make up for the lack of exif data in film? Is it even a problem once you get your camera figured out?

What I mean is I’m keeping a log in my phones notes app of each shot, what the settings are that I used, what the cameras meter said about the exposure and any other details.

I figure once I get the film back I can troubleshoot any issues I see.

For instance, since I’m still learning this camera, I thought I had it in aperture priority mode, but I had it in manual mode, didn’t adjust the shutter speed, and took a shot that the camera said was underexposed and most likely will be. No clue if it will be salvageable or not, but when I get a black frame back at least I’ll know why

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I generally just shoot rolls and rolls of crappy pictures and hope two or three are nice.

For real though, I find as long as the camera is working well you can trust it. You might have to spend some time getting used to different film stocks. For example slide film is a lot more sensitive than negative film and you'll develop an eye for when scenes are too contrasty and when you should meter for mods/shadows/highlights.

That said I've never even attempted to keep a log of my shots and I've probably paid for it.

a dingus fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Oct 9, 2023

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Beve Stuscemi posted:

How do you make up for the lack of exif data in film? Is it even a problem once you get your camera figured out?

What I mean is I’m keeping a log in my phones notes app of each shot, what the settings are that I used, what the cameras meter said about the exposure and any other details.

I figure once I get the film back I can troubleshoot any issues I see.

For instance, since I’m still learning this camera, I thought I had it in aperture priority mode, but I had it in manual mode, didn’t adjust the shutter speed, and took a shot that the camera said was underexposed and most likely will be. No clue if it will be salvageable or not, but when I get a black frame back at least I’ll know why

I used to keep notes on the first roll through any camera but now don't bother at all. Trust your light meter to begin with, try out different methods of metering (point it at a dark spot, point it at a light spot) and play around. You'll soon get a feel for what works for you.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

All of my homies hate cinestill. There's been drama of late about Cinestill copyrighting 800T and going after small producers, sending out cease and desists on what is literally a film descriptor: original reddit post

There's a really concerning comment in there now as well, that is super shady and hosed if true. I'm going to post a link here and also quote it in full underneath in case Cinestill get lawyer happy.

A poster posted:

QWD owner here. Cinestill did everything they could to ruin me.

Edit: I hope this doesn’t get buried because it’s a ton of good info and I’ve been internalizing this for years haha. It’s a long read but I promise worth it.

They have a Non-compete in place with Kodak in regards master rolls of motion picture film. I’m not even certain it’s legal. Cinestill is the only company in world that can purchase master rolls. Most of Kodak doesn’t even know it’s in place and it’s though a faction within Kodak that has a vested interest in selling Cinestill. This is in place so no other company has access to large quantities of film so they can control the market.

They created their ECN-2 kit to intentionally make the process seem dangerous (unless you use their kit of course) and made it to be inferior and confusing so people would just use C-41.

I want to be very clear on this. They designed their kit to be inferior and confusing. So people would just use c41. They are currently selling kits that they made to not work properly.

Then they release articles on this. They basically were saying ECN-2 burns babies and caused 9/11. Kodak motion picture was pissed. Pissed. As it was not true but made them look bad. They dragged in Kodak Motion Picture without realizing it. This was directly targeted at us. I am 100% certain of that and was made aware though our distributor 6 months prior while they crudely developed an ECN-2 kit then said they have been working on it for years. It’s all a lie. They created it to “change the conversation about ECN-2”. Their words.

Then went on a campaign to kneecap ECN-2.

I took a zoom meeting with them to see what the their problem was and they laughed about it the whole time. It was the most unprofessional meeting I’ve even been a part of. Needless to say this is when other companies such as Kodak and distributors started to take notice.

Their film ages quick because its pressure fogged mechanically because their crude remjet remover machine. They blame the customer or the retailer. They have been doing this since day one.

They lie all of the time. I say lie but realistically this is called consumer fraud. 400D isn’t a custom run of film. The reason they released it was because they had a meeting with Orwo and took everything from the meeting down to the launguage used in the upcoming Orwo product and 100% ripped it off. 400D is just 250D they mess with themselves. This was confirmed and I can’t say anything specific other than it’s confirmed.

One of the biggest reasons I have stepped away was I started to resent this Industry. Sadly they are some of the leaders of this generation. It really took a heavy toll to keep waking up everyday and having to keep battling this company that went so far out of their way to destroy not me but ECN-2 as a whole.

I did this for years. Every step I took forward. They went out of their way to destroy it. Meetings with Harman. Film manufacturers. Chemical producers. Publications. They tried to burn it down every step of the way.

Cinestill is literally 2 brothers that put out incredible amounts of misinformation to cover their inherently flawed products. They have no background in film or chemistry or even motion picture.

FYI. The only thing trademarked is the word 800T. Literally. You can call it 799T. They say their remjet removal process is patented. It’s not.

I could write a book on Cinestill. This isn’t even the bad stuff.

More than anything I really wish people knew who Cinestill really is. How much damage they doing are both willfully and with intent, to this industry for their personal gain.

I will gladly contribute to a kickstarter so no one ever has to go through the above. I will happily create a separate post detailing the above.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Beve Stuscemi posted:

How do you make up for the lack of exif data in film? Is it even a problem once you get your camera figured out?

I rarely give a crap about exif data. An exception is high dynamic range scenes because I have struggled with metering them.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Do you have to adjust how you shoot film in cold weather? We’re heading into chilly weather here and my thought is since shooting film is ultimately a chemical process, does cold affect it?

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
I've shot in -20c a lot and the film has been unaffected.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
delete

Viginti Septem fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Oct 16, 2023

Cassius Belli
May 22, 2010

horny is prohibited

Megabound posted:

All of my homies hate cinestill. There's been drama of late about Cinestill copyrighting 800T and going after small producers, sending out cease and desists on what is literally a film descriptor: original reddit post

Aww, and I've really liked their 120 spooling of Kodak XX. I was going to order some today (they have a minor sale going on), but that gives me a bit of a pause.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Cassius Belli posted:

Aww, and I've really liked their 120 spooling of Kodak XX. I was going to order some today (they have a minor sale going on), but that gives me a bit of a pause.

Boycott their poo poo and help ratio their instagram. Their exclusivity contract with Kodak is why they're the only people who can sell 120 XX. I want them to lose that contract so other companies can get Kodak master rolls and do the same.

Buy some Foma 100 or FP4 if you want that more classic black and white look. They're both non-tabular grain. Or Potsdam from Lomo, that's ORWO UN54

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