|
kid sinister posted:What's the best slicer to use in 2023? OP hasn't been updated in a year and a half. Cura has been working great for me!
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 02:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:09 |
|
|
kid sinister posted:What's the best slicer to use in 2023? OP hasn't been updated in a year and a half. The answer for general slicers hasn't changed. Prusa or Cura and Chitubox or Lychee. Some printer brands like Bambu you are locked to using their sliced file formats, which neither of the above support. I think Voron still recommend superslicer for their design.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 03:10
|
|
|
People have been pretty high on OrcaSlicer but I haven't really seen much reason to use anything over PrusaSlicer
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 03:11
|
|
|
A4 Steak Sauce posted:You probably should avoid driving and sitting around campfires, it's in those emissions too, and in higher dosages. We all die, so what's the point in worrying? Advocating for not sitting in the same room as an active 3D printer if it can be avoided isn’t necessarily worrying. In the scheme of things it may not be a major contributing factor to negative health outcomes, but that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea to do, and newcomers to the hobby should be informed of best practices. There’s nothing wrong with trying to avoid stacking risk factors. And like I said, in my particular case, with the last filament I printed with, it was causing me nose/throat irritation which indicates to me that whatever was coming from my printer on that occasion is probably not great to expose myself to repeatedly or for long periods of time. 🤷🏻♂️
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 04:43
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:And like I said, in my particular case, with the last filament I printed with, it was causing me nose/throat irritation which indicates to me that whatever was coming from my printer on that occasion is probably not great to expose myself to repeatedly or for long periods of time. 🤷🏻♂️
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 05:19
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I got 2 kids in grade school. Nose/throat irritation is the norm now that school started up again. Schools are germ warfare labs and no one can convince me otherwise. Children are a disease vector.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 05:30
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:Regardless of smells, I’m pretty sure it’s understood at this point that even FDM 3D printing is probably not great to be around due to PM2.5 emissions, regardless of filament? Since my n3p is sitting directly next to my desk where I spend 60 percent of my day at, and the open window is on the other side of the room, this made me worry a bit about emissions. Reading on the net seems to imply that while pla and fdm is not the worst, it is a non negligible risk in the long term. Now I'm wondering at a solution, would putting it in a tent like the one from enders plus a proper filter be a good solution? I've seen some printable designs that have both carbon and hepa filters included. There's also a bunch of cheap household air purifiers on ebay, I could plop that one next to it, we also have use for one in general due to allergies. Anybody have a similar setup? I don't wanna overly worry about this, but as said currently it's running right next to me for more days than not, so if it's a risk I can easily minimize I'd prefer to do that. Son of Rodney fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Aug 31, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 08:40
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I got 2 kids in grade school. Nose/throat irritation is the norm now that school started up again. Schools are germ warfare labs and no one can convince me otherwise. I have 3 kids in 3 different levels of school. Lockdowns were the healthiest we've been as a family in years. I didn't get a single cold for a solid 18 months when everyone was home all the time. It was glorious in a way. Anyway, is there a way to get Cura-style rafts in Bambu/Orca? I don't often have occasion to use them, but I really don't like the Slic3r version that Prusa/Super/Bambu/etc use.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 11:47
|
|
|
Son of Rodney posted:Since my n3p is sitting directly next to my desk where I spend 60 percent of my day at, and the open window is on the other side of the room, this made me worry a bit about emissions. Reading on the net seems to imply that while pla and fdm is not the worst, it is a non negligible risk in the long term. Filtering any specific thing out of the air that isn't particulates of a given or greater size usually ends up requiring a degree in chemistry or listening to someone who has one. Far easier to follow the trail blazed by resin; grow tent with extractor and vent out a window or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 12:42
|
|
|
armorer posted:Children are a disease vector. i got the most potent colds and flus when my kids entered grade school. It's like how can all these little tots carry around such world ending disease?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 13:21
|
|
|
mattfl posted:iiidmax is running their usualy holiday sale. 10% off their bundle packs. A 30 pack of PLA comes out to $9.89/roll. Do these spools work well in the AMS?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 13:35
|
|
|
What's the over/under on expensive filaments? Thinking of doing the Protopasta subscription but at $75 for three 500g spools it seems pretty dang steep. Compared to something like the IIIDMAX sales, that's quite the difference per kilo of PLA. I know Protopasta does more unique stuff like HTPLA and conductive PLA, but I feel like there are diminishing returns at that price point for sure. Worst comes to worst I'll sub for one period, get one shipment, and just cancel it anyway 
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 13:44
|
|
|
Tremors posted:Do these spools work well in the AMS? They work perfectly in the AMS.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 14:09
|
|
|
Macichne Leainig posted:What's the over/under on expensive filaments? Thinking of doing the Protopasta subscription but at $75 for three 500g spools it seems pretty dang steep. They have some really badas colors but, man their poo poo is expensive. Like when I think of expensive filament I'm thinking Atomic/Fusion/KVP at $30-40 for a 1KG roll, Protopaste with their 500g rolls for $30 is just ridiculous, IMO.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 14:15
|
|
|
Yeah I mean it's every 2 months and 1.5kg is going to be plenty for me so I'll just try one period and see what it's like. Better to only throw away $75 once than $450 yearly on 9 kg filament 
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 14:38
|
|
|
yeah or you can buy $120 in filament get the IIIDmax stuff 10KG for ~12 a roll.. (Is the $75 for a year of the sub.. or every month)? Bambu P1P question with AMS.. If I decide this is how I want to blow my dollars in the next bit of time... I don't really have a "back of table" for whee it sits.. my printer is on a workbench with a wall behind it, and a rail around the bench except the front. Poop chute can't really poop can it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 14:54
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:yeah or you can buy $120 in filament get the IIIDmax stuff 10KG for ~12 a roll.. (Is the $75 for a year of the sub.. or every month)? $75/mnth lol The poop chute will always poop, just where it's pooping is up for you to decide. If it's a straight drop behind the printer to the floor, put a box on the floor and let it fall into that. I have a chute that wraps around the printer to the side, you need like 4" behind the printer for something like that though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 15:59
|
|
|
mattfl posted:They work perfectly in the AMS. The spools do, but the winding can be suspect.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 16:03
|
|
|
mattfl posted:$75/mnth lol nah son I'm out 150- for 3 500g random filament is um.. reall real bad. Cool I'll have space behind my printer (espcially that it's not slinging the bed) if it's high enough I can have it drop down a chute into a bucket/bag that I have in front of my workbench for all my failed prints and scraps
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 16:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:What's the best slicer to use in 2023? OP hasn't been updated in a year and a half. I like Prusa Slicer or BambuStudio/Orca Slicer (fork of bambustudio) Both have their own strengths.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 16:21
|
|
|
tracecomplete posted:The spools do, but the winding can be suspect. Ya it can be, thankfully in the 10+ rolls I've gone through so far I haven't had any issues.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 16:21
|
|
|
Where has everyone been getting most of their .STL's? I have purchased mine from myminifactory.com, I know about cults3d and thingiverse, are there any other sites that are good marketplaces for .stl's?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 17:20
|
|
|
Tythas posted:Where has everyone been getting most of their .STL's? yeggi.com will search pretty much all of the websites you'll find models Except Etsy. Etsy you gotta go searching yourself.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 17:34
|
|
|
Tythas posted:Where has everyone been getting most of their .STL's? Between yeggi.com and https://www.printables.com/model/510524-print-in-place-helicopter-no-supports/comments you've got basically all of the big ones. Then you gotta get into the weeds and search etsy / patreon / etc on your own.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 17:45
|
|
|
Rad-daddio posted:i got the most potent colds and flus when my kids entered grade school. It's like how can all these little tots carry around such world ending disease? I remember a tweet along the lines of "Before I had kids I used to think I had a pretty good immune system, but it turns out I just wasn't constantly around the kinds of people who sneeze directly into your eyeballs while telling you a story"
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 18:53
|
|
|
Moving a bunch of my printers to my garage on a rack and want to make sure I have fire safety covered. Any recommendations on smart fire systems, power bars etc to cover myself? I'll be running them only while I work from home but want to be properly alerted if the worst case scenario happens. Thinking about going this direction for fire safety. -big metal rack for 9-12 printers, fire resistant backing on it, some "semi enclosed" setup broadly -google nest for fire alarm, would integrate into my phone, googles around the house etc if poo poo goes down. Not sure if there's a better/cheaper solution -some smart switch at the wall that can hard cut the power to the wall if there's a fire. Have a kasa but happy to go to a more robust solution if there's something out there -cameras for monitoring things. Not sure what I want directly monitoring the printers, probably a security camera for the garage generally adwell. -wham bam makes extinguisher pucks for enclosures that explode when him by fire. Thinking of grabbing 1 for every printer -anything else I may have forgotten about, will verify my fire extinguisher etc
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 21:17
|
|
|
Hmm. My bed adhesion is TOO good. What's going wrong that my print bottom looks like this? ps the little dude himself looks great:  
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 21:39
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Moving a bunch of my printers to my garage on a rack and want to make sure I have fire safety covered. At that level, would it be possible to consider enterprise-level fire suppression? I'm not even sure what that would look like, aside from those automatic halon extinguishers that server farms use. I wonder what all those bitcoin mining operations were using.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 21:48
|
|
|
StrixNebulosa posted:Hmm. My bed adhesion is TOO good. A bit of rubbing will buff that whitishness out. It's something that can happen with dark filaments.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 22:13
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Moving a bunch of my printers to my garage on a rack and want to make sure I have fire safety covered. So what you are looking for is something called a small scale fire suppression system. When you get involved in the fire protection and safety world you learn that there are two unique parts; fire detection and fire suppression. Typically they work together, but detection alerts you or a system that a fire or heat condition exists and the suppression system applies some sort of agent to extinguish the fire. For detection, assuming the shop is in a single room, and you will be in house during operation any standard smoke head will probably work for you, a Nest will be more than sufficient. For suppression it depends on how much you want to spend but the best solution for you is a purpose built system. I am unsure if the Wham Bam kit, while helpful, would constitute sufficient fire suppression for an insurance claim should they fail and there is damage. I recommend a fire suppression system that is commonly used in small electronic cabinets or CNC machines; that is a tank of agent, typically CO2 with a rubber hose that goes above the equipment to be protected. The hose is attached to the extinguisher but is filled with Nitrogen. What happens is when there is a fire the tube melts and when it melts the nitrogen is purged and then the extinguishing agent sprays out of the hole that was created. Give me a bit and I will try to find a link to one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 22:21
|
|
|
Ok, so after looking around for stuff that is for sale, most of the applications would require you to get a quote and you are probably looking at a few grand to get the highest quality system installed. A potential less expensive option that I think would still be very function would be to use a product that is similar to what I described earlier but is just the tube and the tube is full of agent. It turns out they sell these in various lengths for the car enthusiast market. The only drawback is that they work best in an enclosed space, so I don't know if your shelf will have enclosures or lids or whatnot. Anyway, you could mount them above the printer and they come in various lengths so you could do a tube per printer or a group of printers per tube. The drawback is, again, insurance may not deem this an adequate solution if there was a claim. As for something that interrupts power when a fire is detected.... that is kind of a tough area. Anything purpose built for that has to be built to NFPA standards and there will be considerable cost. So you are probably going to have to utilize a system not exactly designed for this purpose. If you hire an electrician to do any of this work for you, you may need to be a little obtuse about the intended use. Say "I want a switch outside the garage that is wired in series with this circuit so that when I open it the circuit is dead" or something like that because if you say "I need an emergency disconnect in case of a fire" the cost and requirements are going to be different. Do you have a rough budget you are looking at spending? https://www.amazon.com/BlazeCut-T-S...08HJG7YDH&psc=1 Edit so I don't triple post: Here is an extinguisher that works in the same manner as sprinkler heads, that is there if a fusible link that melts at a certain temperature and deploys the agent. : https://www.amazon.com/BlazeCut-T-S...08HJG7YDH&psc=1 These ones might be better even, but are kind of expensive : https://amfe.pro/product/68c-fire-extinguisher-amfe-novec/ You might also have to decide if you would prefer to use CO2 as the agent or Novec. 3M will discontinue production of Novec in the future due to PFAS concerns, but even then it still might be a safer option than CO2 depending on application. Given this will be in a contained space CO2 would probably be fine. IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Aug 31, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 22:43
|
|
|
I'll dig through all of this, bit I guess the gist of "budget" is whatever gets me in the clear for an insurance claim should something come up. A few grand is t horrific given a grid of 9-12 p1s's costs a decent chunk already, and I'd obviously prefer not to burn my garage down I had spotted those fire suppressant tubes and they seem pretty similair in execution to the Wham Bam cloud pucks. Probably a more professional setup. I'll be running some sort of enclosures, not quite sure on the final execution though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 23:14
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Moving a bunch of my printers to my garage on a rack and want to make sure I have fire safety covered. The nice thing about a 3d printer fire is that it's most likely just burning plastic, which is a pretty simple class A fire. Downside to that is most class A extinguishers are either water or a chemical agent, which will be really messy. Total constructive loss of everything it soaks tier messy. A CO2 extinguisher system could work, since 'electrical fire' is the 2nd most likely thing to be burning, but if the filament is lit it'll have a harder time putting it out. It would be entirely possible to cobble together something that's able to detect the fire, sound the alarm, cut the power and dispense the extinguishing media via smart devices and consumer/prosumer tier goodies. Depending on your specific homeowners or small business insurance, your non-UL listed A real deal commercial fire system would have all of the sensors and relays needed to do all of that, plus the UL listings needed for the insurance companies to be happy with you, and actually cover the damage the fire system does to all the printers. The downside to those systems is they're not cheap. Step 1 is going to be talk to your insurance company. Explain to them what you're doing, and what your concerns are (3d printing for business purposes causing a fire). Homeowners insurance often times does NOT cover loss due to home business risks. Depending on the specifics that could include your entire house if they can show the business' printer causing it. On the plus side, a lot of times they will discount your insurance if you have a fire protection system in place to mitigate that specific risk. Step 2 is going to be sizing and placing the steel racking and cement board box in such a way that even if a full spool of filament started burning, there isn't anything it can spread to. Step 3 is going to depend on your budget, risk profile, insurance requirements and whatnot. DIY Edition: Nest fire alarm hooked up to a smart switch on some google home automation logic that kills the power to the printers when the alarm sounds. A puck for every printer seems like cheap peace of mind, but could also be a false sense of security. Cash Money Edition: Get one of the local fire protection places in town to come see what you need and give you a quote. Redact it and share it with us. Then get several quotes and get whatever system they designed installed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 23:31
|
|
|
There are more advanced air filtration options if you want to print more nasty stuff (do not print POM lol) or if you print a ton of styrene plastics. But also? If you want a quick and easy solution for occasional ABS and mainly PLA, a simple portable air filter can get a lot done. With the added benefit that you can throw it in a room after you dust or do a deep cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2023 23:44
|
|
|
I am going to strongly recommend against any DIY implementation of smart switches and Nest fire alarms to secure power. But if you do, you must make sure that the printers are on a separate circuit from everything that would be actuating the fire detection and suppression because in the case of an electrical fire or incident it is possible the associated equipment on that circuit may not function correctly. Assuming you have adequate and audible detection it is pretty likely that you would be able to respond in a timely manner to the alarm, and a switch in series with the associated circuit located on the wall where the garage meets the house, on the house side, would allow you to operate and open the circuit entirely without needing to enter the garage during the fire. If you are worried about bumping or flipping the switch you could get a cover and use a mushroom button instead of a switch. The downside of that is you have an ugly e-stop button in your house. If you want a professional set-up done by a licensed and bonded fire suppression specialist every aspect of the job they perform must meet the NFPA and NEC requirements, along with UL requirements for automation equipment. While the Nest is a good detector it does not meet the requirements for use in automated suppression and detection. Bringing in automation adds a lot of expense. Another potential solution is one that is commonly used for small and medium kitchens, an Ansul fire hood system. This would be more expensive, but it would not matter if it was enclosed. It would also be way more messy if it triggered. They basically work by having agent in a canister attached to pipes that go above the area to be protected. The valve for the agent is kept closed against spring pressure by a fusible link. When the heat gets hot enough it melts the fusible link and the spring pushes open the valve allowing agent to flow and extinguish the fire. The problem here is that they are designed for grease fires which burn pretty hot, so I am not sure the fusible link would work in your use case. As for fire class, a CO2 extinguisher will put out a class A fire, but it removes and displaces oxygen to do so. So you may have concerns if you have a big tank of CO2 if it goes off while you are in the room you may become incapacitated. That is why Novec is often a better choice, it removes heat, not oxygen, and stops fires as quickly, or quicker than, water or CO2 agent. In addition it leaves no residue so adjacent equipment will not be damaged in a discharge. The Wham Bam system uses Monoammonium phosphate which is propelled by Nitrogen upon release. That agent works by smothering the flame, so I am interested to see the efficacy of their unit in different positions in relation to the fire. Monoammonium phosphate is also a dry chemical agent (as can be seen by their videos) which will create residue and dust on adjacent equipment when deployed, but I am unsure the amount of damage that would cause.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 01:23
|
|
|
God, I'm just realizing that I don't actually have space in my workshop anymore for a Prusa XL. Like, not anymore I don't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 02:11
|
|
|
Posted about this project over in the CAD thread, but I thought I'd bring this here for some more exposure. I'm putting together a "I suck at art, but here's an interesting gimmick" 3D printed Settlers of Catan set. I decided to go with a generic 80's no-name brand aesthetic of black lettering on white background. Once the set is finished, the only color on the 3d printed pieces will be the colors of the player pieces and the red for the 6 and 8 tokens. Now now I'm trying to decide on the best font for the project. Pictured below Left to Right, top to bottom: Arial Narrow Lower Times New Roman Bold Upper Arial MT Rounded Bold Upper Times New roman Bold Lower Arial MT Rounded Bold Lower These were picked from searching various 80s generic no-name brand labels and making matches where we could. Interestingly enough, there are very few of the labels that are mixed case from those days. Most of them are all upper or all lower. Occasionally, there would be some mixing of serif and sans-serif fonts on different parts of the packaging, but even that was still singularly cased.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 03:31
|
|
|
I’m leaning towards Times New Roman lowercase personally. It really nails the default word processor, all lowercase, “I’m doing the bare minimum to make this design functional” feel
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 03:58
|
|
|
https://twitter.com/waxpancake/status/1002568447140622336
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 04:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:09 |
|
|
There was some pretty fun stuff back then. I found the packaging in Repo Man to be interesting using mixed case serif font in blue. Where a lot of the packaging I remember was straight up black single case lettering on white.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2023 04:14
|
|