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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Partycat posted:

I have what I believe is a 2015 Felt F85X CX bike I use for exercise , commuting , whatever really except winter . Felt seems to have sort of imploded since it was released , and I know there’s a possible ancient recall on the frame I am probably out of luck on.
Felt is alive and kicking. Is it an issue of finding a bike shop that will process the recall for you?

quote:

How do I begin to ID the components for maintenance ?

Do you mean determine what model a component is? If the parts are original to the bike, you can look at catalog specs, or other sources that’ve aggregated the specs.

https://www.feltbicycles.com/documents/archive/2015_FELT_Catalog.pdf
pg 144 has the spec. You should confirm with the picture, first.

Multiple places I found have the brakes as Tektro Miras, so maybe your bike has some aftermarket parts.
In those cases, a picture and asking here might be your best bet.

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SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
If you clean the parts you can usually find a product code.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

a loathsome bird posted:

What do people think about chainstay repairs on steel frames? My Xtracycle Free Radical is cracked on both sides past the dropouts (front of the bike is to the left, the crack is on the cargo extension part of the chainstay). I got a quote locally for $160 which seems fair but not sure how wise it would be to repair vs replace, especially with a toddler on the back.



I had a chainstay replaced on my tandem. Replaced the whole tube rather than just re-welding.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
Are the Novatec SL hubs that Light Bicycle use good enough to be worth rebuilding a wheel around? I bought a second hand front wheel and the seller threw in the rear as well because it had a damaged rim. I can get an exact replacement from LB if the spokes are ok to re-use.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Never had a problem with Novatec hubs, they're nothing special but are reliable.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
My rear rotor had as loud as the second coming of Christ, but I ignored it because it’s the rear brake and it’s never rubbed the pads when my hand was off the lever.

Suddenly it’s quiet. Too quiet. :goofy:

I’m just going to continue ignore it. I’ve always been careful around it, but maybe it was contamination somehow.

Withnail
Feb 11, 2004
I'm connecting up some new hydraulic brakes on a road bike, should I be connecting into these couplers or just run the line directly into the shifter?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Withnail posted:

I'm connecting up some new hydraulic brakes on a road bike, should I be connecting into these couplers or just run the line directly into the shifter?



Wouldn't those be so you can remove bars more easily?

jet sanchEz
Oct 24, 2001

Lousy Manipulative Dog
I have a nice 10 speed Campagnolo group that I was thinking of using on a bike with disc brakes

It'll be mechanical, obviously, since 10 speed Campy is so old

Are there any compatibility problems that I need to worry about if I use TRP Spyre brakes?

I've got a lot of road bikes but I'm new to disc road bikes

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Campy does have a different, shorter brake pull. It might or might not be a problem for Spyres.

Here's the Paul Klamper arms for normal road vs Campy:


So if it doesn't pull far enough, you might have to choke up on the Spyre brake arm a bit.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
i'm using a surly disc trucker fork on my build and i noticed where the front caliper goes there is no threading in the two mounting holes whats the deal with this (i was also confused because through the hole to the caliper is like 40mm distance very long)

i'm just used to seeing threads in brake mounting holes nevermind i guess it will all come together when i get the flat to flat mount adapter thing


is what its supposed to look like, helped me out shortly after makin this post

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Aug 26, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Turmoilx posted:

i'm just used to seeing threads in brake mounting holes nevermind i guess it will all come together when i get the flat to flat mount adapter thing


is what its supposed to look like, helped me out shortly after makin this post

You juuust missed the discussion about how the FM mount holes work
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933901&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=90#post533766968

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
oh.. ironic ill go check it out

Hotbod Handsomeface
Dec 28, 2009
What's up? I'm that person. I feel like I opened a door to needing to adjust my brakes a lot more often with that one. It's pretty annoying!

I had some chatter or something on the front brakes on my last right so I looked at my brakes and both front and rear looked like the disk to pad spacing was no longer as even as I had set it up. One side was contacting the rotor first and then flexing the rotor a little even. The assemblies were still tight on the frame, so that wasn't it. I made adjustments so that I didn't notice and rotor flex and the pads ~evenly spaced from the disk so I'm hoping that works for another bit.

Is it normal to need to make small adjustments to your brakes in like 30-50 mile intervals? How often do you have to adjust your bike brakes? This is like the first time I've ever had to worry about them.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
What model brakes do you have?

Hotbod Handsomeface
Dec 28, 2009
TRP Spyre C. I went for a quick ride yesterday and I had to readjust the pads right before because it's as if the positions just changed while sitting. It's interesting though I was stopped at a light and then squeezed the fronts while watching and at 1 light they would deflect the rotor to one direction and at another it was like they were roughly centered, so there was no disc flexing. It's really odd. The chatter or pulsing in the front was much less but I feel like I still felt something. So I think my quick adjustment before did something.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Hotbod Handsomeface posted:

at 1 light they would deflect the rotor to one direction and at another it was like they were roughly centered, so there was no disc flexing.

Do you always lean the bike at the same angle? Does the Disc Trucker have thru axles? If yes, do the same squeeze test all the way around the wheel at regular intervals, using the valve stem as an index. See if the rotor wanders left-right.

If no, see if the wheel is tight in the fork.

kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Sep 1, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Platystemon posted:

My rear rotor had as loud as the second coming of Christ, but I ignored it because it’s the rear brake and it’s never rubbed the pads when my hand was off the lever.

Suddenly it’s quiet. Too quiet. :goofy:

I’m just going to continue ignore it. I’ve always been careful around it, but maybe it was contamination somehow.

Yeah it’s loud again. :unsmith:

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

I have Spyres on my bike with QRs, and they can be a little finicky but not that finicky. They were a little frustrating to learn the quirks at first, especially since I have low tolerance for noise/vibration and like really tight and responsive brake feel, but I've got them figured out now and think they are pretty great for what they are.

Because they are mechanical cable-actuated, they are not self-adjusting so as the pads wear you do need to adjust them to take out cable slack, but not every 30-50 miles. They just need a half turn of the barrel adjuster every few hundo miles to keep them nice and taught.

Assuming the caliper is mounted and aligned well on the fork/stay, then here's a few things I can think of.

Is your bike QR or Thru-Axle? The downside of QRs and disc brakes is that each time you loosen and tighten the QR the axle (and therefore the rotors) will sit in the dropout ever so slightly differently. Fractions of a millimeter matter in this case. If you do have QRs, are you certain that they are secure enough? Even a little bit too loose can allow micromovement of the axle in the dropout and change pad-rotor alignment.

How old are your cables? If they aren't moving completely smoothly maybe there is friction there preventing the pads from retracting consistently and fully?

Much less likely would be a loose rotor bolt or something weird there, but again that is probably unlikely unless someone has fiddled with them.

Also the type of pad you're running can absolutely affect noise. The metallic pads it came with would honk and vibrate horribly if wet or dirty or even the slightest bit misaligned (and had poo poo brake feel), so I switched to resin pads and they don't make any noise and feel better, too. Trade off is they don't last as long, I get about 1500 miles out of a pair of pads since I live in a rather hilly region and am not afraid to brake hard. But they are like $10-15/pair for Shimano B01S pads and take 10 minutes to swap out so that's fine with me.

I also put a tiny dab of copper grease on the back of the backing plate which may or may not help reduce pad vibration and movement within the caliper, but I feel like it helps so I dunno I keep doing it, YMMV. Just don't get any on the pad or rotor.

Guinness fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Aug 31, 2023

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Found my crank arms creaking when I took my bike out for the first time after a ~120 mile ride and ran over to the bike shop and they said it needed to be tightened. They still creak after tightening and I'm thinking they got loose and the threading might be hosed. Haven't taken them off yet, but is this going to be a problem with the crank arms, the BB or both?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

Found my crank arms creaking when I took my bike out for the first time after a ~120 mile ride and ran over to the bike shop and they said it needed to be tightened. They still creak after tightening and I'm thinking they got loose and the threading might be hosed. Haven't taken them off yet, but is this going to be a problem with the crank arms, the BB or both?

Make sure your saddle and seatpost aren't creaking

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Nah this is me standing on the pedals

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mauser posted:

Nah this is me standing on the pedals

Usually it's not the threading that gets hosed but the actual mating surfaces of the crank and BB that get damaged when a bike is ridden around with a loose crank. If the crank was actually loose and they tightened it, and it's still creaking, it could be the BB creaking or the crank/bb interface creaking. I say it could be the BB because it's possible your BB is just shot and you noticed the creaking, and incidentally the cranks were slightly loose but this wasn't causing the creak.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Girlfriend has an old japanese made Raliegh that's been her toodling around the city bike for years. She left it outside last winter (!!!!!) and I finally got around to looking at it. Cranks were completely seized, but it's just old cottered cranks and normal 1/4" bearings.



It's going to get a nice chain soak, a little cleanup, new bearings and cotters and it'll be okay.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

VelociBacon posted:

Usually it's not the threading that gets hosed but the actual mating surfaces of the crank and BB that get damaged when a bike is ridden around with a loose crank. If the crank was actually loose and they tightened it, and it's still creaking, it could be the BB creaking or the crank/bb interface creaking. I say it could be the BB because it's possible your BB is just shot and you noticed the creaking, and incidentally the cranks were slightly loose but this wasn't causing the creak.

Yeah threads seem fine. I tried a new screw just for fun and both original bolt and new one, when I tighten it to around the right amount of torque, they'll do a click/pop and jump forward on the drive side. I think I'll try replacing the BB first since that's the cheapest option.

I wasn't able to get the crank arm off, so I guess I'll finally pick up a crank puller and a new BB once I get back from work travel with that all that per diem money :homebrew:

Mauser fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Sep 1, 2023

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mauser posted:

Yeah threads seem fine. I tried a new screw just for fun and both original bolt and new one, when I tighten it to around the right amount of torque, they'll do a click/pop and jump forward on the drive side. I think I'll try replacing the BB first since that's the cheapest option.

I wasn't able to get the crank arm off, so I guess I'll finally pick up a crank puller and a new BB once I get back from work travel with that all that per diem money :homebrew:

Lots of cranks have integrated 8mm Allen pullers, make sure that's not the case before you try to use an old fashioned puller!

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
I had to look up what that looks like and nope. all my bikes are relatively old fashioned.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mauser posted:

I had to look up what that looks like and nope. all my bikes are relatively old fashioned.

Is it a square taper BB? If it is, my suspicion for a hosed interface between the crank and the bb is much higher.

Back it up Terry
Nov 20, 2006

My pedal fell off, and it won’t go back on. Is there an easy way to tell if it’s the crank vs the pedals? New bike, 3rd ride on the pedals.

Edit - I have another pair of pedals I can try and put on. I suppose that should tell me if it’s the crank?

Back it up Terry fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Sep 2, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Back it up Terry posted:

My pedal fell off, and it won’t go back on.

Take pictures and explain your reinstall methodology.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Back it up Terry posted:

My pedal fell off, and it won’t go back on. Is there an easy way to tell if it’s the crank vs the pedals? New bike, 3rd ride on the pedals.

Edit - I have another pair of pedals I can try and put on. I suppose that should tell me if it’s the crank?

Are you threading it on the right way? The pedal on the left side is threaded in a different direction than the right side pedal to the cranks

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

VelociBacon posted:

Is it a square taper BB? If it is, my suspicion for a hosed interface between the crank and the bb is much higher.

Yeah, square taper. I'm hoping that the crank arm is ok and just need a new BB, otherwise this'll get a bit more expensive

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

Picked up some chatter in my drivetrain and trying to fix it. I have a new chain on a sram 1x setup. The tallest 2 gears have a grinding noise.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

A MIRACLE posted:

Picked up some chatter in my drivetrain and trying to fix it. I have a new chain on a sram 1x setup. The tallest 2 gears have a grinding noise.

It’s not interference from the jockey wheel, right? Twist the B screw in some and see if the noise goes away. Sometimes the tension is fine, but the pivot needs oil.

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!

Sentient Data posted:

I'm getting close to 1k miles and I usually ride heavy and fast, so I'm planning to replace my pads and do brake fluid exchange. Brand suggestion for high quality pads to put in a tektro hydraulic setup? Humid area for now, but I'm also game for suggestions for a desert climate for later. I'd prefer quieter and don't care about super long life, I just don't want to sacrifice stopping power

Got overlooked in the ebike thread, any suggestions on this side for disc brake pads for heavy/fast riding?

vvv:
I'm not particularly unhappy with stock, I just figured a scheduled swap is the perfect time for an upgrade since better-than-oem usually exists in one form or another

Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Sep 5, 2023

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

swissssssstop makes decent upgrade pads if you're not happy with whatever you have.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sentient Data posted:

Got overlooked in the ebike thread, any suggestions on this side for disc brake pads for heavy/fast riding?

vvv:
I'm not particularly unhappy with stock, I just figured a scheduled swap is the perfect time for an upgrade since better-than-oem usually exists in one form or another

Are you already at max rotor size? That's a better upgrade before pads IMO. I would also make sure you're using the metallic version pad for whatever system you're using, but if you're riding an ebike it probably came with those already.

If you're not having issues with fade or power I wouldn't change anything!

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
I don’t think pads make much difference to stopping power, they’ll all provide enough force to lock your wheels reet quick. Resin pads tend to be quieter but last less well than metal.

Plenty of people I know changed to off-brand resin pads during COVID and had no issues.

The one exception is when you’ve contaminated your pads.

For heavy riders potentially doing a long descent, heating the rotors / calipers / brake fluid is the most significant problem. That can cause warping rotors, and worse can boil your brake fluid and make you lose stopping power entirely.

Bigger rotors helps, dual pot calipers helps, but if you just brake in short bursts, use both brakes and don’t drag the brakes down a long hill you’ll have no issues.

I feel strongly that brake pads with cooling fins attached are nonsense. They make it harder to fit the pads and do very little else other than cost more. I have them on 2/5 bikes though somehow.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
whats the secret to finding a stash of bike screws? hardware stores suck for me so far. i'd like to have spares for crank/brake calipers/stem

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Spending the previous year or two hoarding and dismantling lovely bikes did the trick for me

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