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CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

See you could spin up a home assistant server and put the camera on a smart switch...

Actually the smart switch might not be needed, there's an API for wyze stuff now looks like

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nomad2020
Jan 30, 2007

CloFan posted:

Actually the smart switch might not be needed, there's an API for wyze stuff now looks like

Well, it looks like I found my homework for the weekend.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

nomad2020 posted:

Well, it looks like I found my homework for the weekend.

There's a home automation and smart device thread floating around somewhere that might be able to give you some ideas. In my extensive looking 30 seconds I couldn't find it but it's out there somewhere

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

Skippy McPants posted:

Not hardware related, but I can't find another thread to ask: what're the best free e-mail options kicking around these days?

There's a Windows software thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3137721) but because I only have 2 accounts to check I use the free version of eM Client.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

Could an overheating PSU cause a computer to hard lock/freeze? I have a pc that started occasionally completely freezes during gaming (no blue screen, no errors, just completely non-responsive while the cpu/gpu fans continue to spin). My gpu/cpu temps stay pretty comfortable (typically < 60c with only occasional 65 ish peaks), memory tests fine, and haven't been able to find anything wrong. However, I noticed one such time my Corsair SF600 (it's a sff pc) was extremely hot to the touch and its fans never seem to spin though they do briefly at boot so I know they work.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

FuzzySlippers posted:

Could an overheating PSU cause a computer to hard lock/freeze? I have a pc that started occasionally completely freezes during gaming (no blue screen, no errors, just completely non-responsive while the cpu/gpu fans continue to spin). My gpu/cpu temps stay pretty comfortable (typically < 60c with only occasional 65 ish peaks), memory tests fine, and haven't been able to find anything wrong. However, I noticed one such time my Corsair SF600 (it's a sff pc) was extremely hot to the touch and its fans never seem to spin though they do briefly at boot so I know they work.

It's possible. For the PSU fan, some of them will turn off or down based on how hot they are to cut down on noise. If it never turns on that's probably an issue. Most PSUs have pretty long warranties so you might be able to get it RMA'd to corsair.

Racing Stripe
Oct 22, 2003

This is perhaps more an iOS question than a hardware question, but there's no iOS or iPad specific thread on the first two pages, so here's my question:

My grandpa died (RIP to a real one) and I got his iPad. He also had an iPhone, and both devices are logged in to his email and account stuff. My aunts are taking care of his affairs and they want to keep access to his accounts via his phone. They cautioned me, repeatedly, not to do anything on the iPad that would cause them to lose access to his emails and stuff through his iPhone. I'm 90% certain that I can do a factory reset on this iPad without affecting what goes on with his phone, but I'm not totally sure. Anybody out there 100% sure, one way or another, whether it's okay for me to do that?

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

Racing Stripe posted:

This is perhaps more an iOS question than a hardware question, but there's no iOS or iPad specific thread on the first two pages, so here's my question:

My grandpa died (RIP to a real one) and I got his iPad. He also had an iPhone, and both devices are logged in to his email and account stuff. My aunts are taking care of his affairs and they want to keep access to his accounts via his phone. They cautioned me, repeatedly, not to do anything on the iPad that would cause them to lose access to his emails and stuff through his iPhone. I'm 90% certain that I can do a factory reset on this iPad without affecting what goes on with his phone, but I'm not totally sure. Anybody out there 100% sure, one way or another, whether it's okay for me to do that?

I don't know but I wouldn't touch poo poo. I know Google accounts often request mfa confirmation on another device you've used. I don't know how Apple accounts work but I wouldn't mess with it until everyone's certain nothing further is needed. It's just an iPad.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Also unless you have his iCloud password you won’t be able to reset the iPad because it will be activation locked.

I’d leave it till they have everything they need just incase.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

Just for future reference the iPad and iOS threads are in Inspect Your Gadgets :)
https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=192

Ofecks
May 4, 2009

A portly feline wizard waddles forth, muttering something about conjured food.

I'm considering buying a webcam for Zoom/telehealth usage. Previously, if I've done those things I just use my phone, but that's not a great solution. Ideally, I'd rather use my desktop PC / headset so I can communicate better.

I've never owned or used a webcam before. What do I need to know about them? I figure I don't need anything too fancy, 1080p30 would probably be sufficient. I won't be using its built-in microphone at all, and I'll likely keep the USB unplugged when not in use for privacy concerns, so a lens cap probably isn't necessary.

Any brands I should stay away from? I would guess that the ones I don't recognize on Amazon are no-go's. I'm not the biggest fan of Logitech products but they seem to be the most prolific for cams.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Ofecks posted:

I'm considering buying a webcam for Zoom/telehealth usage. Previously, if I've done those things I just use my phone, but that's not a great solution. Ideally, I'd rather use my desktop PC / headset so I can communicate better.

I've never owned or used a webcam before. What do I need to know about them? I figure I don't need anything too fancy, 1080p30 would probably be sufficient. I won't be using its built-in microphone at all, and I'll likely keep the USB unplugged when not in use for privacy concerns, so a lens cap probably isn't necessary.

Any brands I should stay away from? I would guess that the ones I don't recognize on Amazon are no-go's. I'm not the biggest fan of Logitech products but they seem to be the most prolific for cams.
Get a Logitech webcam. They are the best quality for the price and they use actual drivers. Most of the cheap Amazon models either use MS drivers that can stop working randomly or just have awful reliability. If you just want something cheap get a C270. I'd spend a bit more for the C920s though, but I value the better image quality and better noise cancelling with the dual microphones. They also come with lens covers built-in.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

future ghost posted:

Get a Logitech webcam. They are the best quality for the price and they use actual drivers. Most of the cheap Amazon models either use MS drivers that can stop working randomly or just have awful reliability. If you just want something cheap get a C270. I'd spend a bit more for the C920s though, but I value the better image quality and better noise cancelling with the dual microphones. They also come with lens covers built-in.

Yeah this.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



future ghost posted:

Get a Logitech webcam. They are the best quality for the price and they use actual drivers. Most of the cheap Amazon models either use MS drivers that can stop working randomly or just have awful reliability. If you just want something cheap get a C270. I'd spend a bit more for the C920s though, but I value the better image quality and better noise cancelling with the dual microphones. They also come with lens covers built-in.

Alternatively, I've been fairly happy with my AnkerWork C200. Logitech is fine, but personally I hate being stuck with ultra wideangle field of view, and the Anker lets me reduce it to 65 degrees.

I mean, I'm videoconferencing - I don't need much more than my head and shoulders in the frame, and don't need acres of wasted space on either side of me.

Ofecks
May 4, 2009

A portly feline wizard waddles forth, muttering something about conjured food.

Thanks for the replies. Based on that, I think I'm going with the C920e. It currently has a small discount and is $60, which is about what I was expecting to spend.

CaptainSarcastic posted:

Logitech is fine, but personally I hate being stuck with ultra wideangle field of view, and the Anker lets me reduce it to 65 degrees.

I mean, I'm videoconferencing - I don't need much more than my head and shoulders in the frame, and don't need acres of wasted space on either side of me.

Hm, yeah, this could be an issue? The model I listed above is 78º, but I don't have a frame of reference for how that will look. I also don't know if I'll be able to change it or not. I read that there is a software config thing. We'll see!

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



Ofecks posted:

Thanks for the replies. Based on that, I think I'm going with the C920e. It currently has a small discount and is $60, which is about what I was expecting to spend.

Hm, yeah, this could be an issue? The model I listed above is 78º, but I don't have a frame of reference for how that will look. I also don't know if I'll be able to change it or not. I read that there is a software config thing. We'll see!

I think you can crop using the Logitech Capture app, but that runs in the background and used to make my work laptop heat up significantly. Maybe it's been improved in recent updates, but I appreciate that with the Anker I can set the FOV and then only open their app for stuff like firmware updates since the settings persist. It's possible that Capture and Zoom didn't play nicely together, too.

I used a Logitech C920 for work-from-home in the first year or two of the pandemic, and it was fine. I'm a bit of a weirdo when it comes to field of view, but that might be due to having a pretty serious background in photography.

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




The c920s comes with a lens cover for privacy, if that floats your boat. However, the c920 series doesn't swivel. The c615 is able to swivel.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
There are too many different types of USB connectors.

I'm trying to figure out this rechargeable flashlight connection.

I have a USB-C cord, but the connector is slightly smaller.

It looks slightly more narrow than USB-mini, but maybe?



What could that be?

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
That just looks like usb micro to me.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

That just looks like usb micro to me.

Yeah I’ve seen a few cheap devices that it looks like USBC but it’s micro

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

That just looks like usb micro to me.

Ah thanks, yeah that looks like it, loving 50 different USB connectors

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU
I can only think of 5 . . . A, B, C, Micro, and Mini.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

I don't know if you'd really call it a usb connector, but there's a square one you'll see for things like monitor hubs.

repiv
Aug 13, 2009

there's also USB3 variants of the B and micro connector which have extra pins bolted onto the side

at least they're backwards compatible with old cables, just at USB2 speeds

Hippie Hedgehog
Feb 19, 2007

Ever cuddled a hedgehog?

phosdex posted:

I don't know if you'd really call it a usb connector, but there's a square one you'll see for things like monitor hubs.

I think that’s B.

PirateBob
Jun 14, 2003
Why does my Kindle Paperwhite refuse to charge when connected to my Samsung 25W phone charger (usb-c to usb-c), using the wall adapter, but does charge (slowly) if I take the cable and connect the kindle to my PC?

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
I just saw a similar discussion with some goon trying to charge their Anbernic handheld via a USB C-C cable on their PC.

I honestly don't know why it technically doesn't work but you're better off just using a regular 5V/2A charger and a USB A-Micro cable.

PirateBob
Jun 14, 2003

DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

I just saw a similar discussion with some goon trying to charge their Anbernic handheld via a USB C-C cable on their PC.

I honestly don't know why it technically doesn't work but you're better off just using a regular 5V/2A charger and a USB A-Micro cable.

Don't know what a regular 5V/2A charger is, or why a usb-a to usb micro cable would be the right thing, when the kindle pw only has a usb-c input.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

PirateBob posted:

Don't know what a regular 5V/2A charger is, or why a usb-a to usb micro cable would be the right thing, when the kindle pw only has a usb-c input.

Oh my kindle is usb micro.

In any case, the point stands. Use a regular charging block with a simple USB-A to USB-C cable.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



PirateBob posted:

Why does my Kindle Paperwhite refuse to charge when connected to my Samsung 25W phone charger (usb-c to usb-c), using the wall adapter, but does charge (slowly) if I take the cable and connect the kindle to my PC?

I don't know, but I'd suggest searching on it. Some devices are just weird and dumb. I learned the hard way that my Ticwatch E2 would not only refuse to charge if I connected its charger to a regular power brick, but it would actually fry the Ticwatch charging cradle. I had to dig through my old USB chargers to find one that put out less than a full amp to make the replacement charger work even semi-reliably.

repiv
Aug 13, 2009

some early/bad usb-c devices where they just bodged in the connector without following the spec properly will only charge with the cable inserted in one of the two orientations when connected to a native usb-c charger

repiv fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Sep 4, 2023

Qubee
May 31, 2013




I'm thinking of buying a new GPU, price isn't an issue but I always like to go for the purchases that give me the most value for money. I have an I7-13700KF CPU and am currently rocking my very old GTX 1080 which I bought back in 2018? Mobo is Z790 Riptide. I'll also upgrade my PSU.

Reason I'm even considering the upgrade is because I've finally started to play Cyberpunk 2077 and I'm actually enjoying it, but the graphics aren't as nice as I would like due to my 1080 not being able to run it high enough without a significant FPS hit.

I'm feeling iffy towards nvidia these days due to their rather unpleasant business tactics. I don't know whether I should support them, but they practically dominate the market share so I debate whether I should put aside my scruples and get from them regardless?

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

AMD is releasing their new mid-high end cards 7700xt and 7800xt tomorrow. Wait until the reviews are out of course, but the way they are priced, there’s a good chance that they will be the best price/performance for 1440p and folks willing to spend a little extra.

Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Sep 5, 2023

PirateBob
Jun 14, 2003

repiv posted:

some early/bad usb-c devices where they just bodged in the connector without following the spec properly will only charge with the cable inserted in one of the two orientations when connected to a native usb-c charger

That was not the issue. But I think a 25W charger is simply too much for the kindle pw. I tried an older 15W charger and it works. It charges the kindle pw at around 1% per minute, which I'm happy with.

thepopmonster
Feb 18, 2014


I have a very old very crappy HP 15-ba052wm laptop that needs a new battery if it's going to retain any usefulness in it's twilight years (it's still sauntering Win10 OK so...) The part # on the battery is 807956-001, and it's also marked as HS03.

That's not the problem, I can find literal dozens of batteries that claim to be compatible.

The problem is that the existing battery is labelled 11.1V, and 99% of the HS03/807956-001 batteries I've found are 14.8V and claim compatibility.

Did I waste my time finding an actual 11.1V replacement or could I have gone with a 14.8V?

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
I moved to an area that gets a lot of thunderstorms and my power goes out quite frequently and sometimes I get weird brownouts where my power fluctuates 10-50%. I have a PC and more importantly a work laptop I'd like to protect I think I would want a UPS for this situation? My PC has a 750 watt power supply so I think the UPS would need to be able to supply at least that much power right? Can anyone recommend a good one that won't break the bank?

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Charliegrs posted:

I moved to an area that gets a lot of thunderstorms and my power goes out quite frequently and sometimes I get weird brownouts where my power fluctuates 10-50%. I have a PC and more importantly a work laptop I'd like to protect I think I would want a UPS for this situation? My PC has a 750 watt power supply so I think the UPS would need to be able to supply at least that much power right? Can anyone recommend a good one that won't break the bank?

You should be able to get something for under $200 that would suit your needs.

This is out of stock but it would be what you’d want. It would probably give about 5 (ish) min Of runtime at full load.



You shouldn’t need to spend over $200 unless you want a lot more runtime.

MarcusSA fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Sep 8, 2023

Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008

Charliegrs posted:

I moved to an area that gets a lot of thunderstorms and my power goes out quite frequently and sometimes I get weird brownouts where my power fluctuates 10-50%. I have a PC and more importantly a work laptop I'd like to protect I think I would want a UPS for this situation? My PC has a 750 watt power supply so I think the UPS would need to be able to supply at least that much power right? Can anyone recommend a good one that won't break the bank?

UPS sounds like a solid choice IMO. I bought this over a year ago and it's probably overkill but keeps my PC, router, and TV working for approximately 16 minutes when there's an outage.

APC UPS 1350VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BX1350M Backup Battery Power Supply, AVR, Dataline Protection https://a.co/d/89yxjgS

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Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
Thanks for suggestions I just ordered a APC UPS that's probably overkill but it's a $200 investment to protect my work laptop so it's worth it. If my laptop got fried my company might seriously reconsider work from home 😬

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