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Yeah, you are basically slowly sandblasting the inside of your nozzle with some filaments.
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Sep 4, 2023 21:55
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kid sinister posted:Will I get smoother results with a tiny nozzle then? Like 0.2mm? I noticed quite the difference in Cura slices. I had it set on 0.2mm, yet had a 0.4mm nozzle in. I assume that smaller nozzles will result in longer print times? It sounds like you're conflating layer height and layer width? So long as your printer can melt effectively, layer width isn't related to nozzle diameter. And layer width only sort-of is, but it's easier to accurately print lines wider than the nozzle diameter than smaller (though modern slicers know how to do it, at least). You may want to stop, take a second, and look at how the printer actually prints--maybe slow it way down so you can watch it. Doing so helped me develop an intuitive understanding to answer the questions you're asking.
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Sep 4, 2023 22:07
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Unperson_47 posted:Yeah, you are basically slowly sandblasting the inside of your nozzle with some filaments. All filaments with maybe TPU as the exception. They're all at least mildly abrasive and enough that brass can't hold up over extended use. There are also filaments that have things like Strontium Aluminate, which is used in a lot of glow in the dark filaments, and are extremely abrasive. These require hardened nozzles to get more than a few prints and still chew through them quickly.
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Sep 4, 2023 22:10
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kid sinister posted:Will I get smoother results with a tiny nozzle then? Like 0.2mm? I noticed quite the difference in Cura slices. I had it set on 0.2mm, yet had a 0.4mm nozzle in. I assume that smaller nozzles will result in longer print times? Yes to your questions, a smaller nozzle means the capacity for greater detail at the cost of longer print times. Cura also has a setting for Ironing (if you set your Settings to at least Advanced) in the Top/Bottom category. Ironing is basically the act of running the heated nozzle through your top layer, re-melting it to smooth it out. But again, this will make your prints take longer and you'll want to have your printer dialed in well before loving around with it.
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Sep 4, 2023 22:11
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I have never ever saw a case where ironing looked or worked better then a properly configured printer with the settings correct for flow/speed/top layer But I honestly could be proven wrong, but I have seen a lot of prints. Also PSA If you are going to post your make of a print to show off to the maker, JFC tune your printers. Lots of show off prints are just downright HORRIBLE
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Sep 4, 2023 22:46
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My Sovol SV07 came with an accelerometer. What's that for?
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Sep 4, 2023 22:52
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kid sinister posted:My Sovol SV07 came with an accelerometer. What's that for? Tuning input shaping. You attach it to the head, run a test, then the bed and run another test - check the Klipper docs for the exact commands.
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Sep 4, 2023 22:59
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AlexDeGruven posted:All filaments with maybe TPU as the exception. They're all at least mildly abrasive and enough that brass can't hold up over extended use. Ehhhhhhhhh. Yes, all of the filament materials are technically abrasive and will wear away the nozzle over time, but for regular plastics, the rate is infinitesimal. You can put hundreds of rolls of PLA through a brass nozzle and see effectively no wear. It really isn't a concern if you aren't using filled material. Filled material, on the other hand, can chew through a nozzle astonishingly quickly. Carbon-filled, glass-filled, or metal-filled filament will ruin a brass nozzle in less than half a roll. Glow-in-the-dark filament, with the phosphorescent minerals in it as you mentioned, is a little less abrasive but not much better. Woodfill is the least abrasive of the filled materials, but it's still at least an order of magnitude worse on the nozzle than a pure polymer. If you never plan to use filled materials, the stock brass nozzles are fine. If you do, a hardened steel nozzle like the E3D NozzleX is a mandatory upgrade. I have had one on my household printer for a good four or five years and have gone through a lot of rolls of carbon PET and it still prints as well as new. Roundboy posted:I have never ever saw a case where ironing looked or worked better then a properly configured printer with the settings correct for flow/speed/top layer Yeah proper settings with monotonic infill looks great. e.g. that picture i just posted (and that's with an old spool of noticeably wet filament too!) kid sinister posted:My Sovol SV07 came with an accelerometer. What's that for? Don't bother with it until you get the printer printing correctly as-is. There is no need for accelerometer input shaping. All it does is let you get improved quality at very high speeds. If you can't pull off a good print with the default slow settings, input shaping will not help. I recommend that you download PrusaSlicer and slice a model with their default 0.2MM QUALITY profile and see how that works out. The PrusaSlicer profiles are extremely well-tuned, particularly for cartesian machines like your SV07, and using them as a starting point should guarantee a good print if your printer's mechanicals are working properly. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Sep 5, 2023 |
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Sep 5, 2023 00:28
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I'd just like to say thank you to everyone here. I've had a zillion questions over the past few pages and you guys have answered them all. Thanks.
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Sep 5, 2023 00:47
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This thread is awesome, and another reminder of how goons are helping to build a good community on these dead gay comedy forums. People in the hobby generally seem very cooperative and this thread is no exception.
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Sep 5, 2023 02:23
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So I am in the very early days of even looking into getting a 3d printer, but I noticed something about using CAD software to make 3d models earlier in the thread. Humble bundle has some CAD software on their website currently, wondering if it would be a good idea to grab it up to have on hand for the future? https://www.humblebundle.com/software/dream-it-design-it-build-it-software
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Sep 5, 2023 02:58
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I have literally never heard of that software package
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Sep 5, 2023 03:04
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I don't think there's anything in there that would produce usable models for 3D printing for you
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Sep 5, 2023 03:14
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Their website does appear to have trial versions of things. https://www.ashampoo.com/en-us/free-downloads If any one of those things can poo poo out an STL it's probably worth $25 but I'd figure if it was any good it would already be in the solidworks/fusion/onshape discussions
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Sep 5, 2023 03:26
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The Pi2 running klipper for my Ender 3 V2 is probably starting to die so I bought a P1S to replace it... Now to figure out who would want to buy a modded Ender 3 V2
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Sep 5, 2023 03:40
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I've never heard of Ashampoo and I teach 3D modeling professionally. From a quick look on the website, it appears to be sort of an AutoCAD knockoff that is specific to doing home renovations and stuff. Probably fundamentally 2D drafting with some 3D extrusions, probably a lot of pre-built models, probably expects you to be making things out of 2x4s. I wouldn't buy it. If you are a newbie and you want to do mechanical designs with precise dimensions, download Fusion 360. Yes it's AutoDesk and they suck, yes it has a lot of stupid nitpicky restrictions on what you can do with it, but those don't matter when you're getting started. It's free and it's a powerful parametric modeler that is eminently capable of doing the sorts of things any hobbyist would want to do. The solid modeling technique you will learn is directly applicable to the big-boy CAD programs like SolidWorks, Creo, and NX, should you eventually choose to go that way. If you are a newbie and you want to do organic modeling like figures and artistic pieces, download Blender. It's overwhelmingly complex software, but there are a zillion tutorials on how to do anything with it, and its sculpting and poly-modeling tools are certainly the best of any free application. If you choose, you can go far beyond just pushing triangles around and get into rendering, animation, procedural modeling, and all kinds of other wacky stuff.
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Sep 5, 2023 03:46
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ZRM posted:So I am in the very early days of even looking into getting a 3d printer, but I noticed something about using CAD software to make 3d models earlier in the thread. Humble bundle has some CAD software on their website currently, wondering if it would be a good idea to grab it up to have on hand for the future? That’s like, architecture type CAD software. No idea if it’s any good for that kind of use case but it doesn’t look very usable for 3d printing. If you’re hard up, FreeCAD is kind of a pain in the butt sometimes but it works well enough and even has some quite impressive features. Hopefully the topo naming fix will be out by the time you’re ready to get into that, then I’ll be able to recommend it without much reservation.
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Sep 5, 2023 04:25
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Roundboy posted:I have never ever saw a case where ironing looked or worked better then a properly configured printer with the settings correct for flow/speed/top layer Matte PLAs for embossed signs. I always iron them because otherwise the light can catch on the tool paths. Otherwise, I don't think it matters much.
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Sep 5, 2023 04:51
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Appreciate it everyone. Sounds like a no go. I'll probably be pestering you all about 3d printers in a few months!
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Sep 5, 2023 05:21
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Bondematt posted:The Pi2 running klipper for my Ender 3 V2 is probably starting to die so I bought a P1S to replace it... That....escalted quickly lol
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Sep 5, 2023 12:37
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Is there a good DIY toolchanger route? Seems like a fun project and frankly I'm sure I can do better than whatever prusas gonna charge me to do 5 toolheads
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Sep 5, 2023 15:17
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the best way to get rid of an old 3d printer is to gift it to a friend who wants one but would never buy it for themselves with the caveat that it is a project, not a turnkey device.
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Sep 5, 2023 15:23
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Also the best way to get rid of an unwanted friend.
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Sep 5, 2023 16:11
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all i'm saying is that trying to sell them is usually more trouble than its worth, and you're far more beholden to 'fix' it if something goes wrong. 'here's a project to tool around on for fun, mileage may vary' will get you a lot farther
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Sep 5, 2023 16:57
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I have a working, lightly modded ender, and was gifted a second one that looks fine but is in an unknown state of repair. I haven't started messing with it yet, and may never do so because I want to get an X1C or a P1S. I'll probably give it half a day one upcoming weekend to see if I can get it running, but if it needs more than that it's just not worth my time.
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Sep 5, 2023 17:05
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Alternative use for a retired 3d printer: break it down for project parts. Motors, control board, rods, etc are all generally useful for random projects. I wouldn't reclaim every M3 screw, but the major parts are solid.
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Sep 5, 2023 17:31
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I'm in the process of designing a camera slider based on an old printer frame and board, as it happens. The uprights and base 2040s of a CR-10 Smart can go further than any affordable slider on the market, and I want to repurpose other axes for pan and tilt of the camera.
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Sep 5, 2023 18:11
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Deviant posted:all i'm saying is that trying to sell them is usually more trouble than its worth, and you're far more beholden to 'fix' it if something goes wrong. Yeah, I may just break it down and throw it in a box. I do not want to tech this thing at all. Also since it has some custom wiring on the power I'd rather not be liable for someone loving with it and burning their house down. mattfl posted:That....escalted quickly lol I've been on the, "fuckit, just get a P1S", train for a while, and the thought of having to get to in and replace it was enough to tip the scale. Also jeeze I did some test slices and this thing is like 1/5 to 1/4 the print time according to the slicer.
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Sep 5, 2023 18:19
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:I wouldn't reclaim every M3 screw, but I would. Send em to me
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Sep 5, 2023 18:26
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w00tmonger posted:Is there a good DIY toolchanger route? Seems like a fun project and frankly I'm sure I can do better than whatever prusas gonna charge me to do 5 toolheads Jubilee had a lot of good going on the last time I looked at it, which was admittedly a couple years ago at least. E3D had a platform but they're discontinuing it.
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Sep 5, 2023 18:40
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I think I've learned enough to offer my own tip now! If you're designing an existing part, a digital caliper is your friend. Also, if the part is broken, use super glue to hold it together long enough to measure it. I officially like the Sketcher tool in FreeCAD. I fixed another radio with your guys' help.
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Sep 5, 2023 19:56
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Alternative use for a retired 3d printer: break it down for project parts. Motors, control board, rods, etc are all generally useful for random projects. I wouldn't reclaim every M3 screw, but the major parts are solid. This is the best use of an old printer. It doesn't take a lot to have enough parts to build something like a Rook, or a Voron Legacy, or.. one of the plastic bottle filament machines.
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Sep 5, 2023 20:42
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There is zero reason to get rid of a working ender (or other) printer. especially if it prints good. Sure everything else is faster, but i can tell you printing is 100% better with 2 printers vs 1 quick one. Having some single color prints jus chugging along on the ender is a great time while other stuff comes out on my other printers. Slow it down if you need to. If you absolutely have zero room for the printer then give it to a buddy (to learn) or donate it to a school so they can start a 3d printing club. Bonus if your kid goes there and can use it (and be the president of said club). Kids can also get a kick learning about the ender and its print limits. you already spent the money on it, its worth next to nothing online, and if its broken or problematic, pull the motors, switches, extrusions off for another project.
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Sep 5, 2023 20:49
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Roundboy posted:There is zero reason to get rid of a working ender (or other) printer. especially if it prints good. Sure everything else is faster, but i can tell you printing is 100% better with 2 printers vs 1 quick one. If you have room... yeah, it doesn't hurt.
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Sep 5, 2023 21:01
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Roundboy posted:There is zero reason to get rid of a working ender (or other) printer. especially if it prints good. Sure everything else is faster, but i can tell you printing is 100% better with 2 printers vs 1 quick one. Having some single color prints jus chugging along on the ender is a great time while other stuff comes out on my other printers. Yeah, space is at something of a premium in my case here as well. If I can get it working with little effort, then great. If it's going to take more time and potentially money, then I'll just get a new printer instead. I hadn't really considered keeping it for parts.
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Sep 5, 2023 21:26
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Has anyone seen a prusa style magnetic bed for enders like this one for cheap on aliexpress?
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Sep 5, 2023 21:29
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mewse posted:Has anyone seen a prusa style magnetic bed for enders like this one for cheap on aliexpress? https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/coll...=39979294982226 - not Ali, but significantly cheaper. (I have one, it’s decent.)
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Sep 5, 2023 21:46
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I'd like state for the record that I got made fun of in here a couple of years ago for getting mad when someone threw a whole-rear end Ender 3 in a dumpster. And posted pictures of it. Not gonna lie, I'm still kind of salty.
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Sep 5, 2023 22:08
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Acid Reflux posted:I'd like state for the record that I got made fun of in here a couple of years ago for getting mad when someone threw a whole-rear end Ender 3 in a dumpster. And posted pictures of it. In one of my 3d printing discords there's a dipshit with a YouTube channel who didn't understand why I got pissed that he posted a video doing this when he moved cross country. Trashing a bunch of working hardware for clicks? gently caress off.
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Sep 5, 2023 22:19
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That said there could be a working but hosed ender in that dumpster. If a extrusion is bent, or the bed heater is bad, or the bed is warped, then it would cost infinite time to troubleshoot and get it working again. Especially since microcenter has enders for $99. Or all the other mentions in this thread about sovol(?) Being a working , tuned ender out of the box
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Sep 5, 2023 22:30
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