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Tyres are regarded as expired at 5 years old regardless of mileage, gotta use em or lose em. There is a DOT date code on them somewhere, it'll have a 4 digit code in a little oval, the last two digits are the year the tyre was made. It will probably be older than the bike itself. As for recommendations, I will always say pirelli angel GT's, they're just the best street tire imo
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Sep 1, 2023 23:46
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I've had a T32 on the back for 4500 miles now. I like it? As you can see, it leans over just fine but it's starting to square off. 
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Sep 1, 2023 23:48
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Slavvy posted:Tyres are regarded as expired at 5 years old regardless of mileage, gotta use em or lose em. There is a DOT date code on them somewhere, it'll have a 4 digit code in a little oval, the last two digits are the year the tyre was made. It will probably be older than the bike itself. I never wait for my questions to be answered and just pulled the trigger on a set of rosso 3's
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Sep 2, 2023 00:15
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Those are great but also pretty short lived, you'll have fun though
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Sep 2, 2023 00:44
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Slavvy posted:Those are great but also pretty short lived, you'll have fun though Sweet. Planning to hit the track next season so I wanted something that would work well for that too. Got a set for 261 bucks from revzilla, seemed like a solid deal
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Sep 2, 2023 01:11
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Overseas tyre prices make me weep, a set of those is ~700 here
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Sep 2, 2023 01:22
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700NZD is a pretty crazy price for Rosso 3s, but 261USD is also a very good price. Seems like all the Pirelli tires are on clearance at Revzilla. I still need to decide if I should just buy a new rear since my front looks OK, buy a new set of something entirely different, or just put on the RS10s I took off preemptively but are probably fine for another day or two. 
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Sep 2, 2023 02:10
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PaintVagrant posted:I never wait for my questions to be answered and just pulled the trigger on a set of rosso 3's I’ve got rosso 3s on my MT03 and they transformed the bike from the stock meh tires. So fun and tippy.
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Sep 2, 2023 06:31
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I've put Angel GTs on both the 919 and Zero and have nothing but good things to say about them. I very much want to put a set of the A specs on the FJR but they are OOS everywhere in my size. Still need to figure out what I'm putting on the 390 for track days next season, the M5s it came with are so-so on track and are gonna be spent soon anyway.
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Sep 2, 2023 14:24
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Toe Rag posted:700NZD is a pretty crazy price for Rosso 3s, but 261USD is also a very good price. I was gonna say, two street tires that aren’t Shinkos for under $300 is a really good deal
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Sep 2, 2023 14:41
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Is there a general rule for when to apply loctite to a bolt and when to apply anti-seize or grease?
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Sep 5, 2023 03:53
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Do you want it to come off or nah?
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Sep 5, 2023 05:39
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Both, depending on the circumstance I suppose I was adjusting the chain tension on my bike and was wondering whether I should be doing anything to the threads on the axle and the adjusters. I don't want them to rattle loose but I also don't want them galled, seized, or rusted in place. Just wondering if there's a rule of thumb.
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Sep 5, 2023 16:57
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Those have nuts to lock the adjuster bolt in place so I think you'd use anti -seize if anything
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Sep 5, 2023 17:12
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Stop using anti seize. Just stop. You don't need it. No, not even there, just put it away. I know, I know, you think it's a good idea, but it isn't! Just don't use it. Number of times I have seen anti seize stop something seizing that would otherwise have seized: single digits Number of times I have seen anti seize gently caress things up because the concept of a make-things-better-goo is utterly irresistible to the human psyche: at least once a week T Zero posted:Both, depending on the circumstance I suppose Put grease (GREASE not anti seize) on your axle so it doesn't get stuck in the wheel. The adjusters will be fine. Maybe if you really really care you might take the adjuster blocks out of the swingarm, if present, and put some grease on those. The adjuster screws won't gall or seize because they aren't made of Suzuki fairing fastener metal.
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Sep 5, 2023 20:09
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While still running, if I turn the key off and the engine briefly dies, then fires 1-2 times before fully stopping, what's that telling me? It's rare, but it happens from time to time, usually after a long ride. If the key is off, wouldn't that mean my plugs can't be firing? If so, I'm still getting combustion off compression alone (like a diesel)? Is the engine running way too hot/lean? Edit: Some more info: stock carb, stock exhaust, stock jets, a/f screw is 2.5 turns out, idle screw set to 950 rpm. No problems at idle or WOT. Plugs are maybe 3 months old. Gas is 91 octane. epswing fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 01:16
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It's kicking over because it's particularly hot and the last cycle would've dragged a little bit of fuel in, the mixture when this happens is particularly lean and will auto ignite. I wouldn't worry about it unless the bike is actually running really lean or something.
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Sep 6, 2023 03:56
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It's called 'dieseling'. 9 out of 10 times harmless. Some carbs have a fuel shutoff solenoid (many old cars have one) and if that one is sticky or intentionally removed because of unreliable action, it can cause the effect you describe. Do check your plugs for carbon deposits, they make the effect worse. In especially bad cases with especially hot engines it can keep running for as long as the engine's properly hot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOzo1gIs9dU&t=23s Of course, you can easily shut off the engine by throwing it in gear. It usually doesn't have the power to keep running under load.
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Sep 6, 2023 07:58
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No bike carb I have ever seen has had a fuel cutoff. Harleys are inefficient and they do run hot, they're definitely the bike with the most old-car-like engine. They also have big heavy flywheels that want to keep the motor turning. I'd be interested to know if old bmw's do it too.
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Sep 6, 2023 08:12
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epswing posted:While still running, if I turn the key off and the engine briefly dies, then fires 1-2 times before fully stopping, what's that telling me? It's rare, but it happens from time to time, usually after a long ride. If the key is off, wouldn't that mean my plugs can't be firing? If so, I'm still getting combustion off compression alone (like a diesel)? Is the engine running way too hot/lean? TL;DR: Something in your top end is staying hot and it should be checked out. Something is still hot enough to burn some fuel. In very broad strokes, this is usually carbon or some other deposit in the cylinder head area. Amusingly, this can come from not running an engine hard enough, so it doesn't get hot enough to burn off deposits. Or your spark plug is dirty, and could probally be a heat range or two warmer. Or your spark plug is to hot, and the plug itself is auto-igniting the fuel. Or, your exhaust valves aren't closing all the way, so are overheating. So, in the short term, you're probably fine, whatever is wrong, has already done the damage if it's going to damage anything. The big problem is if this happens during normal running, is now your ignition timing is "weird". You could be looking at piston or crank damage, or even exhaust valve damage. Lean is "late". Overall engine temps are lower, but the exhaust gets warmer than normal because it's a slower/later burn. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 14:36
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Has anyone used one of the fork seal tools with any success on a leaking fork? There seems to be one branded one SealMate that is everywhere, and KTM also has their own orange flavored version 
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Sep 6, 2023 23:08
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Yes, twice on two different goldwings. It worked fantastic for about two weeks until they started leaking again, both times. I think this is less the fault of the seal mate and more the fact that I was cleaning crud out of shot seals and giving them a two week extension on life.
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Sep 7, 2023 01:25
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Has anyone used one of the fork seal tools with any success on a leaking fork? There seems to be one branded one SealMate that is everywhere, and KTM also has their own orange flavored version Yes, but mine is a bootleg made out of some random clear plastic. It gave me a couple extra thousand miles on the seals on my Buell, and I just had to do it again this weekend. It will at least last me to the winter when I change them for real.
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Sep 7, 2023 01:41
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Made it myself from some transparent plastic sheet. Same experience - worked for a couple rides, then started leaking again.
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Sep 7, 2023 07:53
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Thanks! Thought it might be a stopgap for the most part, and sounds like that's the general experience. Got one leaking on the Ninja 400 now but it's been a good 3 years and 10k miles in a dry, hot environment so probably time for new seals and fork oil.
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Sep 7, 2023 14:45
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I adjusted my chain and all looked perfect, I put it back together and checked the slack one more time and somehow it was not perfect, I am too tight by a bit. The spec calls for 2.01–2.20 in, and right now it is at about 1.8in. Is this something I should fix right away? I am fairly light if that matters, about 140lbs. I'll do it if I have to just want to see what people think, my first time doing this so looks like somehow in the process I messed the measurement up at the end.
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Sep 7, 2023 21:58
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That is almost certainly because you didn't check for the tight spot. The chain slack won't be the same in every sprocket position, you need to turn the wheel until you find the tightest spot and adjust it there.
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Sep 7, 2023 22:53
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That makes sense thanks, I am going to try again I guess.
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Sep 7, 2023 23:21
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How different are the tightest and loosest spots? I’ve done this before on a bunch of my bikes but pretty much every time I question whether I’m finding the tight spot or just fooling myself. I can’t tell if I’m horribly undiscerning or if the difference is minuscule.
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Sep 8, 2023 00:31
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 it varies, sometimes it's very small and sometimes it's make or break
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Sep 8, 2023 00:37
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Remember the oval shaped chain rings on some bicycles in the 90s?
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Sep 8, 2023 01:27
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TotalLossBrain posted:Remember the oval shaped chain rings on some bicycles in the 90s? Unfortunately this is still very much a thing today But yeah it's the same principle to a lesser magnitude
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Sep 8, 2023 01:29
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Okay, I redid it, a lot easier the second time, and got it right at 2.1 this time.
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Sep 8, 2023 01:43
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Slavvy posted:Stop using anti seize. Just stop. You don't need it. No, not even there, just put it away. I know, I know, you think it's a good idea, but it isn't! Just don't use it. I put some anti-seize on some bolts on my bike because I read that dissimilar metals have a tendency to do weird stuff. (Galvanic corrosion?) But, as I've shared previously I think, I swapped those SV1000 brake calipers on to my SV650 and I was paranoid about bolts in the adapter brackets backing out. The only bolts I could find that were pre-drilled for safety wire in the sizes I needed were titanium, so I applied a very small amount anti-seize to the bolts that thread into the calipers and aluminum brackets, and then I safety wired the bolts.
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Sep 10, 2023 23:07
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If you're worried about galvanic corrosion just use grease If you're worried about bolts backing out use loctite or use nothing and just safety wire
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Sep 10, 2023 23:12
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What about spokes and spoke nipples? That's the only place I've ever used anti seize
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Sep 11, 2023 05:05
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Grease My problem with anti seize is that it is basically an abrasive paste, you use it on fire and forget stuff which on bikes is basically only exhaust header studs
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Sep 11, 2023 05:14
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Does anyone know a way to make the google maps navigation speed camera alert noise louder? Can barely hear it through my headset, all the other maps audio I can hear fine.
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Sep 13, 2023 19:57
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I appreciate that Swedish speed cameras only take pictures from the front. fake edit: but I also actually rarely speed these days.
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Sep 14, 2023 15:47
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I had problems with my front brake master cylinder reservoir being damaged by UV light to the point of cracking. I installed a new one recently, bleeding the brakes as best I could. Now I have a stupid problem: My front brake lever pull is too hard. Typically, it's bad when the pull is too soft, and people want a harder pull. But I think that there's too much pressure in the lines now. My front brake had a period where it was dragging a little today. How to introduce a tiny amount of air? This also happened to me many years ago, back when I owned a 1978 GS750. With that bike, it turned out that the little return hole in the reservoir that relieved pressure in the lines was getting clogged with gunk. Replacing the innards of the front master cylinder (new piston and seals, cleaning it out) fixed it. I thought about this problem with my bike now, but, this master cylinder is brand new.
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Sep 16, 2023 03:28
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