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FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
I hang mine off the side of my 'greasy' garbage can. Let it drip into the mess of old oil filters and rags.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Is there a thread favorite multimeter? I just smoked my old one being dumb. Mostly auto related troubleshooting, continuity is a big one, but also voltage.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

In what price range

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

and For What Purpose.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

MRC48B posted:

and For What Purpose.



StormDrain posted:

Is there a thread favorite multimeter? I just smoked my old one being dumb. Mostly auto related troubleshooting, continuity is a big one, but also voltage.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hadlock posted:

In what price range

Contextually, I am a guy who just smoked his by being an idiot. So, I'm not a power user. Under a hundo I guess.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal
I thought the leakiness of grease guns was on the business end where any pressure left in the system would force it out over time. That's why I thought the lock n lube gun would be nice, it has that dummy zerk Bystricky fitting and the hose clamps back on itself. But I suppose I could just use a spare capped fitting on any gun with the locknlube head?


FatCow posted:

I hang mine off the side of my 'greasy' garbage can. Let it drip into the mess of old oil filters and rags.

Don't, uh, greasey rag piles have a tendency to spontaneously combust?

Er... now that I think about it, what am I supposed to do with old filters and oiley paper towels? Cat litter and trash?


StormDrain posted:

Is there a thread favorite multimeter? I just smoked my old one being dumb. Mostly auto related troubleshooting, continuity is a big one, but also voltage.

If it's going in a wall socket at any point, I like my fluke multimeter. Awhile back I lucked out and snagged an 87 iii that I found on fleabay for sub hundred bucks.

Just looking at amazon, sub fifty bucks, I'd probably get this Klein 420

Half for the name -- Klein in my mind is synomous for quality electrician's tools (and now blazing it up), half that it's Cat 3 rated and I'd trust their fuses to not explode the multimeter. I wouldn't buy a multimeter from an ALLCAPS brand on Amazon. That's just risk calculus though. It would probably be just fine, but you never know of there a downed power line and higher than expected voltages in your wall socket that might explode the multimeter because the fuse was something the manufacturer could save a few pennies per unit on by using nichrome wire or some poo poo.

It's also auto ranging, which is a nice quality of life upgrade not having to guess orders of magnitude when taking a measurement.

That's about all I know, I'm sure others here have way more knowledge and experience than my YouTube university degree

Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Sep 5, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
I'd get a cheap extech or klein from your nearest store or Amazon. I see extech as cheap as $25 that have all you'll need I think.

If you wanna splurge on a fluke get one that's exclusive for the India or China markets, no warranty but like 1/3rd the price on ebay.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

Catatron Prime posted:

Just looking at amazon, sub fifty bucks, I'd probably get this Klein 420
Have this very one and can confirm it is swell for a casual user looking for continuity and good 'nuff voltage readings. Only caveat is that I upgraded from a late 80s radio shack needle multimeter, so things like "beeps when there is continuity" are novel and magical to me.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I have an innova 3320 which is like $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA

And a hard case for it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078X7G8LS

I don't hate it. It kind of struggles with under 100mA @ 3.3 and 5v Arduino stuff, but is great for 12v stuff. I bought some different leads for it to clamp onto things. It's bounced around in the bottom of my portable tool bag for 5 years and is still kicking. The auto off thing to help preserve the battery works really well and is set to something sane like 10 min. It's got a flip out kick stand on the back that works ok. There's an elastic band I use to keep the leads organized but apparently it also doubles as a wrist strap

Display is big enough to read without needing reading glasses, but also not comically large

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Sep 5, 2023

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Catatron Prime posted:


If it's going in a wall socket at any point, I like my fluke multimeter. Awhile back I lucked out and snagged an 87 iii that I found on fleabay for sub hundred bucks.

Just looking at amazon, sub fifty bucks, I'd probably get this Klein 420

Half for the name -- Klein in my mind is synomous for quality electrician's tools (and now blazing it up), half that it's Cat 3 rated and I'd trust their fuses to not explode the multimeter. I wouldn't buy a multimeter from an ALLCAPS brand on Amazon. That's just risk calculus though. It would probably be just fine, but you never know of there a downed power line and higher than expected voltages in your wall socket that might explode the multimeter because the fuse was something the manufacturer could save a few pennies per unit on by using nichrome wire or some poo poo.

It's also auto ranging, which is a nice quality of life upgrade not having to guess orders of magnitude when taking a measurement.

That's about all I know, I'm sure others here have way more knowledge and experience than my YouTube university degree

Thanks I was trending toward that.

The one I had used a 9v battery that required a full disassembly to replace, and didn't auto off either so I did that a couple of times. Little features like kickstands and magnets are good to me. Also probably leads with alligator clips are ideal.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Catatron Prime posted:

Don't, uh, greasey rag piles have a tendency to spontaneously combust?


To the best of my knowledge that primarily (solely?) is a danger with oils such as linseed that polymerize on exposure to air, the idea is the reaction releases heat and in a pile the middle could get hot enough to ignite if the reaction is occurring all through it. Think like a flammable compost pile.

All that said I’ve no idea if this is a concern with say synthetic lubricants except insofar as it would be extra fuel for the above situation.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Just don't do it.

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Sep 5, 2023

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

StormDrain posted:

Is there a thread favorite multimeter? I just smoked my old one being dumb. Mostly auto related troubleshooting, continuity is a big one, but also voltage.

I just have cheap ones, my oldest digtal is from 2000 and is perhaps the one I like the most. It doesn't have auto ranging. I kinda like that, most of the time. So I do have one with autoranging too.

But yeah who wouldn't want a fluke. Can't justify it though. I would have more use adding a cheap analog one to my range.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

the yeti posted:

To the best of my knowledge that primarily (solely?) is a danger with oils such as linseed that polymerize on exposure to air, the idea is the reaction releases heat and in a pile the middle could get hot enough to ignite if the reaction is occurring all through it. Think like a flammable compost pile.

All that said I’ve no idea if this is a concern with say synthetic lubricants except insofar as it would be extra fuel for the above situation.

This is pretty much my take on it as well. If it's an oil or grease that will polymerize, dry, or cure such as paints and stains (etc), it's a risk. In general lubricant oils aren't supposed to do that.

RE: meters, the meter I've been daily driving since I got it for Christmas in junior high is a BK survivor 2860A, but I don't even know if they exist anymore. Great meter though.
E: $108 but discontinued

I've got a few commercial electric BMM-8132Rs around that live in vehicles for basic troubleshooting and they work I guess but I'm not very impressed with them, despite having the display digits for it they won't auto range and give you tenths of a volt for instance which makes them pretty useless for auto work as 12.1 volts means a very different thing from 12.9.
E: $17 but do not buy

I have a peaktech 1070 that was a freebie from a vendor trying to woo my business at work once, it didn't convince me to buy their crap (nothing does, I'm unbribable) but it now lives in the center console of the Honcho for roadside testing. Thanks, vendor, I can't even remember who you were representing.
E: $19 https://peaktech-rce.com/en/digital-multimeters/140-peaktech-1070-digital-multimeter-3-digits-1999-12mm.html

We have a few DT321C multimeters around that are so great their manufacturer didn't put a logo on them, just "multimeter". They're actually better than the commercial electric ones, they live in various cars as roadside testing equipment just like the peaktech does. If you can figure out where I bought these things (I think it might have been tractor supply on sale? Not sure), them or the peaktech would probably be my recommendation of "fairly useful, reasonably accurate, cheap meter to use on auto electronics for someone who might blow it the gently caress up by accident".
E: $50 https://www.amazon.com/Ismartdigi-DT321C-Handheld-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07BJM19RW

Given the price difference my recommendation is definitely the peaktech first, "multimeter" second, for sacrificial dmm

kastein fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Sep 5, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Catatron Prime posted:

I thought the leakiness of grease guns was on the business end where any pressure left in the system would force it out over time. That's why I thought the lock n lube gun would be nice, it has that dummy zerk Bystricky fitting and the hose clamps back on itself. But I suppose I could just use a spare capped fitting on any gun with the locknlube head?

The entire purpose of grease is to suspend oil in a sticky/pasty carrier. When it exceeds the temps its designed for the emulsion breaks and oil comes out of the emulsion.

I don't think anyone was talking about leaking grease. We're all talking about leaking oil when the grease emulsion "breaks" in heat.

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost

deimos posted:

If you wanna splurge on a fluke get one that's exclusive for the India or China markets, no warranty but like 1/3rd the price on ebay.

I got a Fluke 101 for $50 from Jeff's Warehouse and it's been great. Small size but still has a good sized display, autoranging, does nearly everything I need automotive wise. Does not do current measurements, but I have a couple clamps for that.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Fwiw I have the cheapest AliExpress meter that has a DC clamp ammeter and it's been pretty good for automotive use and it isn't wired to read amps using the probes so I'd be impressed if it found a way to explode.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
The Aneng AN8008/9 is pretty good for a real cheapass one, I've had one for a few years and it's good for electronics and car stuff: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000957681855.html
Brymen seems to be a decent budget option, and yeah the low-end Flukes and Keysights and what not.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
If you have a little more money, get an electrical tester like a T5-600.
As there is no Current mode, you have to try really hard to smoke it.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electr...32-63e904010ad0

I find most of the time I am looking for go/no go, so this tells you if the black wire is hot or ground, and tells you if its got a voltage.
As its a Fluke, its trustworthy enough to poke at 120V/240V stuff and be safe.

If you need to get down to 100ths of volts, get out a different meter, but I use this as a every day carry as an industrial electrical engineer.


The cheapest DC clamp meter works too because you can't mess up and blow a fuse.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Speaking of grease, this came up on my linkedin feed

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Wtf is that, a ham?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

A ham would have less grease.

It's an AC motor that looks like it has been religiously greased... even though its assembled with bearings that are not greaseable.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

mobby_6kl posted:

The Aneng AN8008/9 is pretty good for a real cheapass one, I've had one for a few years and it's good for electronics and car stuff: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000957681855.html
Brymen seems to be a decent budget option, and yeah the low-end Flukes and Keysights and what not.

Hey, I've got the Aneng ST212: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803530094502.html
I was having trouble finding a DC clamp meter for twice that from a legitimate retailer, and I really just want to know if my alternator is working, "working", or stone dead. Having a second meter for voltage, ohms, etc. so I don't need to go get my other meter (the cheapest digital meter RadioShack had when I was in highschool :smug:) is a nice bonus though.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




slidebite posted:

A ham would have less grease.

It's an AC motor that looks like it has been religiously greased... even though its assembled with bearings that are not greaseable.

"Challenge accepted."

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Better than a grease-able bearing with no zerks. 10 horse motor and they were too cheap to supply zerks.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Everybody keeps saying zerks and all I think about is animorphs

fatman1683
Jan 8, 2004
.
I enrolled in a vo-tech program at a local community college for funsies, and it turns out they're hooked into the student discount programs offered by the tool truck companies, which offer some pretty steep discounts on expensive equipment.

I'm going to be getting some stuff I need for class from them, but I'm also looking at a proper box to use at home. I have access to the Snap-On Classic and Heritage series, the Mac Tech and Edge series, and the Matco 2s and 4s series. Student prices are about half of retail.

What I don't know is how the different lines from the different manufacturers compare. None of the companies seem anxious to publish a lot of detailed information about the construction of the boxes, so it's hard to tell what's actually worth buying.

Does anyone have experience with any of these products, and would be willing to offer an opinion about which one or ones might be worth the money?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Buy a harbor freight box remove the branding on it and find somewhere/3d print some snap on, mac, matco or whatever badges and put them on.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

fatman1683 posted:

I enrolled in a vo-tech program at a local community college for funsies, and it turns out they're hooked into the student discount programs offered by the tool truck companies, which offer some pretty steep discounts on expensive equipment.
Why does this feel like a drug dealer from an 80s after school special hanging around outside the local high school?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fatman1683 posted:

I enrolled in a vo-tech program at a local community college for funsies, and it turns out they're hooked into the student discount programs offered by the tool truck companies, which offer some pretty steep discounts on expensive equipment.

I'm going to be getting some stuff I need for class from them, but I'm also looking at a proper box to use at home. I have access to the Snap-On Classic and Heritage series, the Mac Tech and Edge series, and the Matco 2s and 4s series. Student prices are about half of retail.

What I don't know is how the different lines from the different manufacturers compare. None of the companies seem anxious to publish a lot of detailed information about the construction of the boxes, so it's hard to tell what's actually worth buying.

Does anyone have experience with any of these products, and would be willing to offer an opinion about which one or ones might be worth the money?

Compare your pricing to the prices of the Harbor Freight Icon series: that series of boxes is made exactly like the high end snap ons/matcos with all the extras including gusseting and bracing under the drawers. (and in typical snap on fashion I wouldn't be the slightest bit surprised if they came out of the exact same factory in china) You probably still don't need that unless you're using your box every day AND expect to have to move it while full between shops on the back of a rollback every few years.

fatman1683
Jan 8, 2004
.

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Buy a harbor freight box remove the branding on it and find somewhere/3d print some snap on, mac, matco or whatever badges and put them on.

I don't care about the branding, I've had a US General box for years and really want something better-built. The drawers can't handle much weight and the whole thing is a little wobbly. My dream box is a Rousseau, but that's way more money than I have right now. I was hoping the student discount would let me get something better than Harbor Freight without being completely bent over by the truck tax.

stealie72 posted:

Why does this feel like a drug dealer from an 80s after school special hanging around outside the local high school?

It pretty much is, they want to get you hooked on their stuff so you keep buying it once you're out of school and in the field.

e:

Motronic posted:

Compare your pricing to the prices of the Harbor Freight Icon series: that series of boxes is made exactly like the high end snap ons/matcos with all the extras including gusseting and bracing under the drawers. (and in typical snap on fashion I wouldn't be the slightest bit surprised if they came out of the exact same factory in china) You probably still don't need that unless you're using your box every day AND expect to have to move it while full between shops on the back of a rollback every few years.

It's actually pretty close, with the student discount the truck prices are within spitting distance of the Icon series, and I do see the influence of the Masters and Epiq series in the design of the Icon boxes. Unfortunately the materials just don't seem to be comparable. According to all the information I can find, everything about the Icon is thinner, lighter, and smaller than the equivalent on the truck brands. They seem like a great upgrade in features over the US General boxes, but they don't appear to be any better built.

fatman1683 fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Sep 6, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I've always wondered if you could just make your own with a used 42" sheet metal brake and then buy the drawer slides and drawer pulls. Really time consuming but sheet metal is basically free, sheet metal boxes are dead simple to construct and you can resell the brake for close to what you paid for it. Those massive snap-on tool boxes seem like a really efficient way to go multiple $10,000s in debt pretty much instantly. Drug dealer seems like an apt comparison

Superfastmatt has a really good round up of the current marketplace of tool boxes

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hadlock posted:

I've always wondered if you could just make your own with a used 42" sheet metal brake and then buy the drawer slides and drawer pulls. Really time consuming but sheet metal is basically free, sheet metal boxes are dead simple to construct and you can resell the brake for close to what you paid for it. Those massive snap-on tool boxes seem like a really efficient way to go multiple $10,000s in debt pretty much instantly. Drug dealer seems like an apt comparison

Superfastmatt has a really good round up of the current marketplace of tool boxes

This is unhinged and honestly I think you should stop to consider if the suggestions you make are even reasonable for a middle aged person to do.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

StormDrain posted:

This is unhinged and honestly I think you should stop to consider if the suggestions you make are even reasonable for a middle aged person to do.

It shows a startling lack of any sort of understanding of the construction of a toolbox or the effort required to create one with minimal tooling....or to create anything of even moderate complexity with any method or amount of tooling.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!

fatman1683 posted:

I enrolled in a vo-tech program at a local community college for funsies, and it turns out they're hooked into the student discount programs offered by the tool truck companies, which offer some pretty steep discounts on expensive equipment.

I'm going to be getting some stuff I need for class from them, but I'm also looking at a proper box to use at home. I have access to the Snap-On Classic and Heritage series, the Mac Tech and Edge series, and the Matco 2s and 4s series. Student prices are about half of retail.

What I don't know is how the different lines from the different manufacturers compare. None of the companies seem anxious to publish a lot of detailed information about the construction of the boxes, so it's hard to tell what's actually worth buying.

Does anyone have experience with any of these products, and would be willing to offer an opinion about which one or ones might be worth the money?

The snap on heritage series is made in China AFAIK, you’d be better off buying the same box as a blue-point branded one. Masters or Epiq series are where you get the enormously overbuilt setups. Classic is pretty close to a HF Icon, I’d go with that TBH.

(I own an epiq series and it’s great but $$$$$$)

Edit: get yourself some nice ratchets and non-rebranded tools instead!

Frank Dillinger fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Sep 6, 2023

fatman1683
Jan 8, 2004
.

Frank Dillinger posted:

The snap on heritage series is made in China AFAIK, you’d be better off buying the same box as a blue-point branded one. Masters or Epiq series are where you get the enormously overbuilt setups. Classic is pretty close to a HF Icon, I’d go with that TBH.

(I own an epiq series and it’s great but $$$$$$)

Thanks, that's helpful. Do you know if the Matco or Mac lines I can buy are better than the Snap-On Classic?


Frank Dillinger posted:

Edit: get yourself some nice ratchets and non-rebranded tools instead!

Yeah I'm getting ratchets from Matco and wrenches from Mac. I have to prioritize though since there's a limit to how much I can buy with the student discount (around $10k for each vendor).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fatman1683 posted:

Unfortunately the materials just don't seem to be comparable. According to all the information I can find, everything about the Icon is thinner, lighter, and smaller than the equivalent on the truck brands. They seem like a great upgrade in features over the US General boxes, but they don't appear to be any better built.

My direct and recent experience tells me you're wrong here about the Icons. So I'd suggest taking a stumble through harbor freight again in close proximity to a time you can get near tool truck boxes, as well a literally just looking underneath the drawers of a US General and then an Icon. And then looking at the sheet metal gauges. There is no mistaking one for the other in any way shape or form. I know this because I just went through this decision making matrix, where I concluded that for my needs US General was going to be fine and then scored a 54" open box/floor model top and bottom during their parking lot sale for under $1k. I would have had to spend about $4k to get the same thing in the Icon series. And while very nice, it is also very unnecessary for a static toolbox that will never be moved loaded nor counted on as a secure storage container in some space I don't control access to.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Hadlock posted:

I've always wondered if you could just make your own with a used 42" sheet metal brake and then buy the drawer slides and drawer pulls. Really time consuming but sheet metal is basically free, sheet metal boxes are dead simple to construct and you can resell the brake for close to what you paid for it. Those massive snap-on tool boxes seem like a really efficient way to go multiple $10,000s in debt pretty much instantly. Drug dealer seems like an apt comparison

Don't let the haters get you down. This is the best idea. It's so blindingly simple, you're nuts to not do it.

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Hockenheim
Oct 20, 2022

by VG

Hadlock posted:

I've always wondered if you could just make your own with a used 42" sheet metal brake and then buy the drawer slides and drawer pulls. Really time consuming but sheet metal is basically free, sheet metal boxes are dead simple to construct and you can resell the brake for close to what you paid for it. Those massive snap-on tool boxes seem like a really efficient way to go multiple $10,000s in debt pretty much instantly. Drug dealer seems like an apt comparison

Superfastmatt has a really good round up of the current marketplace of tool boxes

Toolboxes, notably like k3s clusters or whatever tech bro poo poo you do lol

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