|
a dingus posted:This sounds relevant to me since I'd like to build a basic entertainment console/record cabinet like this guy: https://wilburdavisstudios.com/shop/recordcredenza/ You can do it with a handheld planer if you have one, or you can use an electric planer, to make them flat. The wood's also gotta be dried and acclimatized to the environment it's going to be in if you want it to be as stable as possible when you're dimensioning it (ie. Let it sit in your house for a week before you start dimensioning it). Power tool wise, you wouldn't want to be dealing with cupping on a table saw or miter saw for safety and feasibility reasons, that's definitely a jointer/planer job. E: oh also a router on a sled can technically do it too with the right jigs Maybe this is the perfect time to pick up a No. 5, 6, or 7 Stanley hand plane and fix it up to work on the shelves! 
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 20:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 03:08 |
|
|
CommonShore posted:My neighbor just gave me this out of nowhere. Wouldn't even accept cash after I told him it was a sought after item. Oh my loving god you lucky SOB. I paid a good hundred bucks for one before covid, it's so useful.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 20:23
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:My father-in-law has no use for this so he'll be bringing it with him next time he visits in May, to complete my planer/table saw/jointer holy trinity Looks like it *might* be the 37-290: https://www.scribd.com/document/490070650/Rockwell-Jointer, with that exploded diagram you might be able to verify.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 20:26
|
|
|
SimonSays posted:Oh my loving god you lucky SOB. I paid a good hundred bucks for one before covid, it's so useful. You can get them for half price if you look for Craftsman branded ones.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 20:29
|
|
|
SimonSays posted:Oh my loving god you lucky SOB. I paid a good hundred bucks for one before covid, it's so useful. right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 21:00
|
|
|
I also just bought a Stanley #71, without the box or accessories (just one blade), at an antique store in Petaluma. I think it was around $75 or so.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 21:58
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:My neighbor just gave me this out of nowhere. Wouldn't even accept cash after I told him it was a sought after item. God drat dude
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 22:37
|
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:You can get them for half price if you look for Craftsman branded ones. Would that it were true in Canada. We have odd knockoff British brands sometimes but not as much of the US stuff, and the British brands weren't exporting router planes apparently.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 23:10
|
|
|
a dingus posted:This sounds relevant to me since I'd like to build a basic entertainment console/record cabinet like this guy: https://wilburdavisstudios.com/shop/recordcredenza/ The term here is "surfacing" the wood. You do it with a jointer or with hand planes. The goal is to get the board to "S2S1E", i.e. surfaces two sides, one edge. That gives you an edge that is 90 degrees to two surfaces, and the two surfaces are flat and parallel. Note that wood movement is fundamentally unavoidable. It happens as the wood absorbs and releases moisture. The bigger the piece of wood, the more it happens. However, depending on the specifics of the board you're working with, the effects can change drastically. For example, quartersawn wood is more stable than regular boards are. Part of the reason for trim pieces in woodworking is to cover any gaps created when wood moves after the piece is finished. Also, some woodworking operations will change the balance of tensions in the wood, leading to movement even in a surfaced board. Mostly this only happens noticeably if you resaw a board into two thinner boards. But if you thickness a board (i.e. reduce its thickness e.g. with a lunchbox planer), that can also lead to some cupping/twisting. It'll be less of an issue if you remove material from both sides of the board equally, but it can't be entirely avoided.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2023 23:23
|
|
|
There is an estate sale this weekend with this bandsaw for that sale that I'm somewhat interested in: Any suggestions of how much to offer and issues to look for? This would be baby's first bandsaw. The table surface looks pretty rough, but the aftermarket fence seems nice. I've seen similar bandsaws listed for anywhere between $300-$800 (CAD), but they were all newer models.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 04:42
|
|
|
I’ve got a very similar one. I’d shoot around $250-300  tops if the fence is as good as it looks. You might need to throw a set of tires on it ($40) but that’s kind of it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 11:12
|
|
|
It’s amazing what some scotchbrite and oil can do for a cast iron table.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 13:16
|
|
|
Sockington posted:I’ve got a very similar one. I’d shoot around $250-300 I would be really surprised if it went for that little! Used shop stuff like that is still inflated from COVID, I haven't seen people really start unloading their impulse covid buys of stuff like bandsaws yet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 15:03
|
|
|
a dingus posted:This sounds relevant to me since I'd like to build a basic entertainment console/record cabinet like this guy: https://wilburdavisstudios.com/shop/recordcredenza/ If you have lumber that's sat stable for a few years, I'd guess it's no longer prone to cupping any more. I'm not a fan of trying to flatten it after the fact. A planer is a really bad idea, imo, since the rollers will somewhat flatten the piece going in before the blades hit it. So, if you're using 3/4" dimensioned lumber, guess what? It's no longer that, either in the middle or the ends, depending. Some woods are stabler than others and will not present that problem, you'd want to research it. Like if you live, by chance in Central America and have access to Honduran mahogany, guess what? You're gold, Jerry. It's the king of hardwoods for stability. It's also on the protected list, I'm pretty sure. If you're using lumber which is known for cupping like red oak, glueing up manageable sizes will cancel a lot of that. Plus grain flipping, if you know what to look for. So if you're going with standard 12" shelves, you're probably not finding that available in the wild anyway. Unless, like Brother Wizard of Goatse, you happen to have a yard nearby that recycles old stand trees, etc. Glue up 3 4" pieces, time consuming, but it's a lot stabler. That's how the panels in raised panel hardwood cabinet doors are done, just from practicality.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 15:33
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:I would be really surprised if it went for that little! Used shop stuff like that is still inflated from COVID, I haven't seen people really start unloading their impulse covid buys of stuff like bandsaws yet. Yeah I was considering offering $300 but being willing to go up to $500. I wouldn't be surprised if they want more, but I don't think I can go higher than that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 15:45
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:I would be really surprised if it went for that little! Used shop stuff like that is still inflated from COVID, I haven't seen people really start unloading their impulse covid buys of stuff like bandsaws yet. My local market is flooded by $250 14” bandsaws it seems then. Edit: these are the asking prices. Usually knock some off.  That fence is what’s adding value beyond that to me. Sockington fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Sep 8, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 16:34
|
|
|
I wanna add that despite the wheel size being basically the same, old 14" bandsaws like that have a significantly lower resaw capacity than new ones from e.g. delta, because the maximum height you can raise the upper guides is like six or eight inches. My Delta cost $850 on sale a few years ago, so that was a fair bit more money, but I can get a plank over 12" wide standing on end up in there to resaw it. Sometimes you can upgrade a bandsaw to get more height by adding a block to the riser and getting longer blades, so if that matters to you definitely do a search for upgrade kits. For example, https://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Riser-Block/s?k=Bandsaw+Riser+Block. But if you're spending +$150-200 to do that, maybe you're now in the same budget range as a newer saw that is already taller. Of course you may not have any special interest in resawing lots of wider boards - people did tons of work on these older saws with just six inches of height, it's not like that was a critical feature. It was something I wanted though because I'm playing around with milling my own (smallish) logs on the saw, so the combo of enough horsepower + plenty of height was important to me. Mr. Mambold posted:If you have lumber that's sat stable for a few years, I'd guess it's no longer prone to cupping any more. I'm not a fan of trying to flatten it after the fact. A planer is a really bad idea, imo, since the rollers will somewhat flatten the piece going in before the blades hit it. I think this is at least partially a matter of technique. You can raise up the rollers to just kiss the top of the wood and take very thin slices off of the crown. I don't own a planer, I do this stuff with hand planes, but I've seen it done. I also think the key thing is no matter how dry, old, and stable, if you take a long board and cut it shorter, you are releasing tension and it can twist or cup on the spot as you sever those fibers. A quartersawn plank is less likely to do that, a rift sawn is more, and a plain or live sawn is the most likely, and as you said there's big differences in species. For building shelves, I guess the thing I'd do as a beginner is buy presurfaced (S4S) 1" nominal (actual width ~5/8") planks of pine from home depot or another big box store e.g. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Claymark-1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-Select-Pine-Softwood-Board-168CSP/327066427 that are already at or near the length I want. I've done this before, you have to sort through the stack to find the least twisty boards, there's usually a few, and they have them in several widths and lengths. An 8' board you cut down to 7' for your sides isn't likely to pick up a huge twist, and that surfaced stuff is usually much drier than the rough milled lumber in the main lumber area, which is often dripping wet. You definitely pay more, but pine is still fairly cheap and a set of bookshelves can be built for well under $100 of lumber. This avoids the need to plane the wood, although it still needs some light sanding, and makes the joinery much simpler because all the planks have the same thickness. It's not what we'd call "fine woodworking" but you can screw or nail together a nice set of shelves with this stuff in one day with nothing but a saw and a screwdriver or hammer. You need the ply back to prevent racking, and you'll be screwing in through the sides to hold the shelves so you'll have exposed screw heads. The upgrade is to cut dadoes for the shelves, so no exposed hardware on the sides, but cutting those dadoes into the S4S boards can cause them to change shape and take a bow... sometimes a pretty minor one that you can just force the board into position with clamps and it's fine. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Sep 8, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 18:50
|
|
|
I've learned to accept wood moving and changing as I work with it. Sometimes it's my fault, I'll make some cuts and then get distracted/busy with life and set the project down for a while and come back to those nice straight cuts now all twisted because the wood moved while I left it sitting and not yet assembled into the project. Sometimes the wood just moves no matter what I do, or has a hidden crack or flaw that makes what you were going to do not work anymore. I've changed plans halfway through a project and made something else because the wood decided that it didn't want to do what I wanted. It's kind of why I've never successfully made a wine rack, it keeps on turning into something else. Anyway, it's half the fun of working with wood is that it can be a bit unpredictable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 19:07
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I wanna add that despite the wheel size being basically the same, old 14" bandsaws like that have a significantly lower resaw capacity than new ones from e.g. delta, because the maximum height you can raise the upper guides is like six or eight inches. My Delta cost $850 on sale a few years ago, so that was a fair bit more money, but I can get a plank over 12" wide standing on end up in there to resaw it. That’s basically what is fuelling our cheap 14” bandsaw market. People are picking up Craftex or Laguna stuff and these older machines are hitting the sale list. I’d love to pick up a new machine in the future as I can see the limitations on my old girl. I’ve stalled it a few times resawing with only the 1/2hp. Edit: a new 14” old-style bandsaw is $1099-1599 in A 14-12 Laguna is $2100
Sockington fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Sep 8, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 19:18
|
|
|
Sockington posted:My local market is flooded by $250 14” bandsaws it seems then. You have a much better market than I do, I guess living in the middle of nowhere strikes again.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 20:32
|
|
|
Sockington posted:That’s basically what is fuelling our cheap 14” bandsaw market. People are picking up Craftex or Laguna stuff and these older machines are hitting the sale list. I’d love to pick up a new machine in the future as I can see the limitations on my old girl. I’ve stalled it a few times resawing with only the 1/2hp. you can get a new motor for a lot less than that. tbh I haven't run into any situations where a newer 14" does anything an old one can't with $20-200 in upgrades, and my main use case is jamming logs through the thing as fast as possible. The new Lagunas and stuff aren't worse, and were the prices remotely similar I'd probably get a new one, but bandsaws have got by far the most unhinged gap of any shop tool between what you're paying over an old model and what you actually get that the old one doesn't A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Sep 8, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2023 21:30
|
|
|
I have some painting/finishing questions for the thread. I’ve built two radiator covers out of poplar, and sprayed a coat of water-based primer on one of them. They will eventually be painted some form of white. 1: Should I be using oil-based instead of water-based? 2: If yes, can I use it in a HVLP sprayer? 3: If yes, can I just spray it over the coat of water-based I applied? 4: How many coats of primer would you use? I assume sand with 220+ in between coats.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 02:08
|
|
|
1. Doesn't matter 4. One if it gives sufficient coverage for your topcoat. You said the topcoat is white, that usually covers very nicely. Are you concerned about woodgrain/texture showing through? That's a separate thing from getting good adhesion and color coverage IMO.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 02:26
|
|
|
A Wizard of Goatse posted:you can get a new motor for a lot less than that. tbh I haven't run into any situations where a newer 14" does anything an old one can't with $20-200 in upgrades, and my main use case is jamming logs through the thing as fast as possible. The new Lagunas and stuff aren't worse, and were the prices remotely similar I'd probably get a new one, but bandsaws have got by far the most unhinged gap of any shop tool between what you're paying over an old model and what you actually get that the old one doesn't The downsides I see to my old one are the resaw height, lower HP, and guide blocks instead of bearings. I can easily fix two of those and don’t come across many tall resaw problems…yet. I know that day is coming though. Upside of the old machine is that I’ve become a little more familiar with the ins and outs of bandsaw stuff. I’ve changed tires, blades, and adjusted tension and alignment to get a square cut. I spent last night getting a bunch of random sized oak boards into dimensionally similar lumber. I was actually pretty surprised at the starting point quality of some of the cuts off the bandsaw. I need to make some built-in shelves below our basement TV using the last of my shop table top scraps and some of this oak I’ve milled up. A couple years ago, you tell me that I’d be spending a Friday night listening to music on some ear-protection ear buds while making lumber from oak rough cut offcuts and scraps… I’d laugh. Here I am chuffed that I’ve got some 1.5 x 2” oak to knock another to-do off my list of home projects. The planer snipe sucks but I’ve learned to just leave poo poo long and trim it off afterwards. That’s one tool I’d like to really get upgraded over this store brand 12” one. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 13:14
|
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:1. Doesn't matter A little concerned about woodgrain (poplar is new to me) as well as wood fill that I used on screw holds showing through. I've messed up pine enough times to just be wary.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 16:57
|
|
|
Depending on your model of saw you can probably get a bolt-on riser blockSchiavona posted:A little concerned about woodgrain (poplar is new to me) as well as wood fill that I used on screw holds showing through. I've messed up pine enough times to just be wary. Poplar shows through a lot less than pine, most things do A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Sep 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 17:11
|
|
|
Schiavona posted:A little concerned about woodgrain (poplar is new to me) as well as wood fill that I used on screw holds showing through. I've messed up pine enough times to just be wary. I'd use rustoleum filler primer (easy to get and cheap) and sand before topcoating.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 17:28
|
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:I'd use rustoleum filler primer (easy to get and cheap) and sand before topcoating. You may have better luck putting on a thick first coat of paint and sanding that back vs. sanding the primer back (the paint likely has higher solids and will build quicker) but it depends alot on which clogs sandpaper less and is easier to sand back. Sherwin Williams quick dry oil-base primer sands pretty well and dries fast ime. If you're going to set things on top of the radiator covers and want to stick with water based paint I'd recommend an alkyd enamel over a latex. It wears really well and has that hardness of oil paints and doesn't feel gummy like latex paint can. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Sep 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 18:53
|
|
|
For those who are resawing on a bandsaw, do you just leave your resaw blade on all the time or do you swap blades and recalibrate everything as necessary when you do regular cuts? Other option, do you just use two different bandsaws with dedicated setups?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:21
|
|
|
I have a 1/2" blade that's my daily driver, and I use that for resaws too. I'll swap blades to a smaller one if I need to cut curves, though. I'd use a 3/4" blade as a daily driver if my tensioner could handle it, but it can't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:33
|
|
|
Skunkduster posted:For those who are resawing on a bandsaw, do you just leave your resaw blade on all the time or do you swap blades and recalibrate everything as necessary when you do regular cuts? Other option, do you just use two different bandsaws with dedicated setups? Two different bandsaws would be a dream, but I definitely don't have the space. I just leave the same blade on all the time, which is a 1/2" blade, I've had good results resawwing with it, and good results with it for general purpose cutting. If I was resawwing veneers or something more critical I might rethink the set-up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:35
|
|
|
I'm still experimenting with blades. The 4tpi blade 1/2" (or maybe it's 5/8"?) that came with the bandsaw does OK, but has bogged down badly in logs, wet wood, and especially wet logs, even though I'm using wedges to try and keep them open. It also would skew wildly, I improved things by centering the gutters of the teeth on the saw's tires instead of centering on the middle of the blade, that was a trick that I just didn't know about for like, two or three years. I just got a 3tpi skip tooth 3/4" blade from Olson that I am hoping will do better with milling large pieces. I've also resawn small material using a 8tpi fine blade that did great, because the wood was dry and hard and didn't move much and it gives a much nicer finish. Changing blades is enough of a pain in the rear end for me that I avoid it. I have to wheel the saw away from the wall, release tension, get the saw blade twisted back up into a small loop, put the new blade on, tension it, and then do six guide adjustments using allen wrenches, which are a bit fiddly, and maybe mess with them once or twice more after the saw has run for a minute, especially with a new blade that will stretch a wee bit with first use. e. oh yeah and every time, the guides are all covered in fine sawdust etc. so there's a bit of cleaning needed too. But a basic 1/2" 4tpi blade is good enough at doing most jobs that I am lazy and leave it on there when I shouldn't, sometimes. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Sep 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:42
|
|
|
Skunkduster posted:For those who are resawing on a bandsaw, do you just leave your resaw blade on all the time or do you swap blades and recalibrate everything as necessary when you do regular cuts? Other option, do you just use two different bandsaws with dedicated setups? I have a range of specialty blades for different applications and change them exclusively when the one currently on the saw breaks A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Sep 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:51
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:Two different bandsaws would be a dream, but I definitely don't have the space. One day, when I go from 400sqft to 10,000sqft of shop space I'll have all the tools, set up for each purpose. No more reconfiguration. I'll ride into the shop each day on my unicorn that eats only wood chips and saw dust.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 18:53
|
|
|
Skunkduster posted:For those who are resawing on a bandsaw, do you just leave your resaw blade on all the time or do you swap blades and recalibrate everything as necessary when you do regular cuts? Other option, do you just use two different bandsaws with dedicated setups? Changing bandsaw blades is just enough of a pain in the rear end that I am just too lazy to swap blades for different jobs regularly. My bandsaw is probably the most used machine in my shop and gets used about every day and I just changed blades last week for the first time in 18 months and it's like a whole new world. Definitely the kind of thing where you don't realize how dull a blade is until you use a sharp one. And then promptly did something dumb and put a little kink in the new blade. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:16
|
|
|
where I'd really like an ATC or something is for the table saw. even before the sawstop putting on a dado stack or whatever was enough of a hassle and would trim my knuckles enough that unless I was making like 20 boxes at once or something I'd regularly just opt to do it on the standard ripping blade 1/8" at a time
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:23
|
|
|
dang, I can't imagine dealing with a 2tpi blade for all my stuff. Do you just assume you'll be running everything that comes off the bandsaw through a planer or drum sander as the next step, and cut everything 1/8" oversize?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:38
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I use a 3/4" 2TPI hook blade for most everything. If you've never tried it before, sharpening the blade while it's still on the saw is super easy with big low-tpi blades. I use a diamond wheel on a dremel, sit on a stool and just gently touch the back of each tooth. It's not technically the correct way to sharpen bands, but it does work great.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:40
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:If you've never tried it before, sharpening the blade while it's still on the saw is super easy with big low-tpi blades. I use a diamond wheel on a dremel, sit on a stool and just gently touch the back of each tooth. It's not technically the correct way to sharpen bands, but it does work great. you can set up a little jig to make it more accurate and consistent, too. I haven't used this one but it's a good quick & dirty example. https://ibuildit.ca/projects/band-saw-blade-sharpening-jig/
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 03:08 |
|
|
Leperflesh posted:dang, I can't imagine dealing with a 2tpi blade for all my stuff. Do you just assume you'll be running everything that comes off the bandsaw through a planer or drum sander as the next step, and cut everything 1/8" oversize? Hypnolobster posted:If you've never tried it before, sharpening the blade while it's still on the saw is super easy with big low-tpi blades. I use a diamond wheel on a dremel, sit on a stool and just gently touch the back of each tooth. It's not technically the correct way to sharpen bands, but it does work great. E: all this reminded me I needed to order more blades and turns out I actually use a 3tpi hook, not 2. I think I tried 2tpi when I got the big fat 1" blade tho. e2: these people weld great blades for a very reasonable price: https://sawandknife.com/services/woodcraft-bands/ Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Sep 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 19:52
|
|