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What's a good alternative to Citadel Technicals for cracked desert bases that doesn't involve spending £5 on a thimble of paint?
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Sep 11, 2023 16:08
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I painted my first ultramarine a few weeks ago and just eyeballed colors for the armor. The recipe I used was: Proacryll blue  AK ducat blue  Vallejo sky blue  And here's a bad picture of it:  As you can see, it's way brighter than the boxart and current GW recipes even though that initial color looked like it would be suitable.
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Sep 11, 2023 16:10
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Roller Coast Guard posted:What's a good alternative to Citadel Technicals for cracked desert bases that doesn't involve spending £5 on a thimble of paint? Crackle medium or white glue: https://tangibleday.com/how-to-paint-a-cracked-base-in-5-minutes-tutorial/
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Sep 11, 2023 17:00
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Roller Coast Guard posted:What's a good alternative to Citadel Technicals for cracked desert bases that doesn't involve spending £5 on a thimble of paint? It's not exact, but I like basing with paint + Mod Podge (or white glue) + fine sand + baking powder, all stirred together into a paste. The baking powder gives it a bit of crackle.
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Sep 11, 2023 17:15
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Count Thrashula posted:It's not exact, but I like basing with paint + Mod Podge (or white glue) + fine sand + baking powder, all stirred together into a paste. The baking powder gives it a bit of crackle. Alternately the stuff you want to make your own proper crackle paste is diatomaceous earth. There's a really good tutorial out there on youtube about using it to make your own crackle paste.
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Sep 11, 2023 18:05
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Spanish Manlove posted:I painted my first ultramarine a few weeks ago and just eyeballed colors for the armor. The recipe I used was: This reminds me, I still have these guys sitting on my desk from weeks ago, I should get around to finishing them up   In the image they're a bit brighter, but in person they look a lot closer to the box art/reference photos of Ultramarines that GW uses. My recipe is something like this: -Prime in black -Basecoat in blue (either VMC Prussian Blue or VGC Heavy Blue, though be warned I think the latter color is being discontinued. But they're both relatively close to each other in terms of similarity) -Wash with dark blue shade (been using a 10:1 mix of Pledge Floor Care and a Daler-Rowney FW indigo ink) -Drybrush with a very light blue -(optional) If desired, use the light blue with a traditional edge highlight method to further emphasize some edges -Carefully reapply the basecoat blue so that you end up "faking" the edge highlights from your drybrushing, as well as covering up any splotches/tide marks you might have gotten from the shade wash -Glaze all over with a 4:1 mix of glaze medium (been using the Vallejo glaze medium for this) and GW Contrast Talassar Blue. Apply a second glaze once the first is completely dry -Marvel at how blue your paint water has become, before getting some clean paint water and picking out the rest of the details on the mini
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Sep 11, 2023 19:02
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Does anyone have any good resources or help on painting camo? I'm looking to do a two pattern stripe but I'm painting up T-80UDs which have a ton of detail and ERA plates so it feels a little daunting.
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Sep 11, 2023 19:16
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Shoehead posted:
Where did you get those heads from?
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Sep 12, 2023 02:23
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I painted some Shatterpoint tiny plastic people.   
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Sep 12, 2023 03:01
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Those are all great! The fabric on the Clan Kryze Mandalorian is especially well done
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Sep 12, 2023 04:37
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Mr Teatime posted:Am I being incredibly dense or is macragge blue significantly darker than the blue depicted in gws photos of their modern ultramarine range? personally i use Vallejo Mecha Blue 69.019 and then just beat the poo poo out of it washes and weathering, but my main application for this is dead ultramarines
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Sep 12, 2023 04:59
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hooman posted:Where did you get those heads from? Anvil Industries https://anvilindustry.co.uk/plague-doctor-masks-7 I also got a bunch of their hooded and masked cultist heads. They're pretty good. I actually ended up ripping this lad's arms off and regluing them. I'm having the worst time getting the arms to align on a lot of my models atm..
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Sep 12, 2023 11:53
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Flipswitch posted:Does anyone have any good resources or help on painting camo? I'm looking to do a two pattern stripe but I'm painting up T-80UDs which have a ton of detail and ERA plates so it feels a little daunting. https://www.youtube.com/@SonicSledgehammerStudio Sonic Sledgehammer has a lot of camo tutorials. Basically the trick I find to camo is knocking a lot of it back with a wash. At a 28mm scale from gaming height it shouldn't be "readable" it is camo after all! I'll try and get a pic of one of my Kasrkin up today.
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Sep 12, 2023 11:55
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Mr Teatime posted:Am I being incredibly dense or is macragge blue significantly darker than the blue depicted in gws photos of their modern ultramarine range? I know they often fudge the exact colours when they put out guidance because the studio painters often use blends but even the ex eavy metal guys are insisting that in this case it’s straight macragge blue. I honestly double checked I hadn’t pulled out a pot of Kantor blue by mistake. Remember that all the photos are in bright light and doctored slightly with post processing, most images are
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Sep 12, 2023 12:09
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Count Thrashula posted:It's not exact, but I like basing with paint + Mod Podge (or white glue) + fine sand + baking powder, all stirred together into a paste. The baking powder gives it a bit of crackle. Tester base I did yesterday by the way. Just Steel Legion Drab mixed into the paste and then a dry brush of light grey. I guess it's not really as "crackle"y as I remember it, but a good cheap basing paste. 
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Sep 12, 2023 15:00
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I haven't tried it myself, but I hear that the golden crackle medium works well for that purpose and comes in a large tub that's like 10x the size of the GW stuff and is the same price https://www.jerrysartarama.com/gold...z0aAkFIEALw_wcB Lol at "Jerry's art a rama" being the first Google result for the stuff. Idk if Vallejo has crackle paste but their other basing tubs that I've tried (fine grit, coarse grit, mud, water, snow) have all been stellar for the price.
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Sep 12, 2023 15:19
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sorry if posted already but this is an excellent video on the subject (goes into detail on the golden crackle medium) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3b8qq9Mjpc
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Sep 12, 2023 16:08
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Spanish Manlove posted:I haven't tried it myself, but I hear that the golden crackle medium works well for that purpose and comes in a large tub that's like 10x the size of the GW stuff and is the same price Jerry's is fantastic, great source for a ton of stuff
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Sep 12, 2023 16:14
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I love their name and it's going to stick in my head as a place to shop
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Sep 12, 2023 16:26
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Can confirm Jerry's is legit, if goofily-named. GW technical paints are generally a bad buy. They're either worse, cost more, or both than Golden or Vallejo, and sometimes they outprice AK.
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Sep 12, 2023 21:41
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grassy gnoll posted:Can confirm Jerry's is legit, if goofily-named. After messing around making my own texture paste with acrylic mediums I can safely say while GWs texture pastes are overpriced they have done something to the mix that makes it both opaque and levels very well. The W&N artist acrylic pastes I was using had the same rough consistency but if used neat it tended to form lots of unwanted textures (peaks/troughs/brush strokes) and thinning it down mean rhe spread of particles became a lot more sparse. Stirland mud just goes on and works right away. I can see from the Vallejo paste samples that their stuff behaves like the W&N sguff.
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Sep 12, 2023 22:02
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Although I generally agree that GW techincals are overpriced, I have yet to find a crackle paint that gives the same results as Agrellian Earth. It creates tons of tiny little crackle pieces that look great at scale, every other type i've tried either won't crackle at all on such a small base, or just has a couple big cracks.
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Sep 13, 2023 04:16
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Shoehead posted:Anvil Industries Thank you!
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Sep 13, 2023 05:11
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Roller Coast Guard posted:What's a good alternative to Citadel Technicals for cracked desert bases that doesn't involve spending £5 on a thimble of paint? The Green Stuff World crackle paint works pretty well. They have different colors than GW though
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Sep 13, 2023 06:14
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x-post from the battletech threadMistaken For Bacon posted:I've never played battletech before, but I liked the minis. Dragon-Con's paint & take crew were offering invasion salvage boxes for $5 so I bit. I painted up this little guy knowing nothing about anything, and I thought it looked cool so I entered into the competition they were running. The yellow mechs were so fast to paint and incredibly fun. Yellow ink over a white-pink zenithal prime, blocked in the weapons and canopies and hit them with black-brown tamiya panel liner. The other mechs were supposed to be white, but I forgot I had sprayed them in proacryl, so they sucked up big pools of enamel. Do they kinda look like camo? I guess what I'm saying is painting 6mm scale is cool and fun. Mistaken For Bacon fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Sep 13, 2023 |
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Sep 13, 2023 06:20
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What do you use to clean up Vallejo's polyurethane varnish? It seems to gunk up brushes if I just water wash it
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Sep 13, 2023 11:36
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i use brush soap no matter what I’ve had in my brushes. also i only varnish with my shittiest brushes but i’ve always got it out just fine with the soap
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Sep 13, 2023 12:40
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For that reason I use absolute trash brushes that cost $0.05 a piece
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Sep 13, 2023 12:40
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Is Huge Miniatures a good company? The prices and quality are great but I don’t want to be supporting a nazi or anything.
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Sep 13, 2023 14:16
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I recall reading someone say that they met the family behind Huge Minis at a con and that they seemed really friendly and pleasant, which isn't conclusive or anything, but is not nothing at the very least.
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Sep 13, 2023 14:36
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I'm having trouble deciding when a model is done. I'm a novice painter, so I don't think it's a good idea to just continue adding more paint to details. For that matter, I also have a hard time deciding which details to pick out, and how. Do people normally have a complete picture of the end result when they start painting? I guess I could return to the models and add finer details when I have more experience, but I also want to try out varnishing them.
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Sep 13, 2023 15:45
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It's done when it looks good in your play or display setting. You can, of course bring it to a degree of doneness more doner than that
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Sep 13, 2023 15:50
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Athas posted:I'm having trouble deciding when a model is done. I'm a novice painter, so I don't think it's a good idea to just continue adding more paint to details. For that matter, I also have a hard time deciding which details to pick out, and how. Do people normally have a complete picture of the end result when they start painting? Do you not feel like painting the model anymore, and does it look pretty good? Congratulations, your model is done. Put it away and paint something else. You can always come back to it if you ever feel like painting it more.
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Sep 13, 2023 16:40
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Athas posted:I'm having trouble deciding when a model is done. I'm a novice painter, so I don't think it's a good idea to just continue adding more paint to details. For that matter, I also have a hard time deciding which details to pick out, and how. Do people normally have a complete picture of the end result when they start painting? Frank Herbert, Dune posted:“Arrakis teaches the attitude of the knife - chopping off what's incomplete and saying: 'Now, it's complete because it's ended here.' It's done when you say it's done, so pick a point, say "It's done, because I stopped painting." and resolve that if you do another mini like it, you will do it better. That's all you can do.
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Sep 13, 2023 17:19
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The words of Frank Herbert inspire me to gouge out the eyes on my Sisters of Silence so I don't have to paint them.
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Sep 13, 2023 17:35
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Athas posted:The words of Frank Herbert inspire me to gouge out the eyes on my Sisters of Silence so I don't have to paint them. That could be the coolest thing I've seen anybody do to their GW minis.
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Sep 13, 2023 17:38
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Athas posted:I'm having trouble deciding when a model is done. I'm a novice painter, so I don't think it's a good idea to just continue adding more paint to details. For that matter, I also have a hard time deciding which details to pick out, and how. Do people normally have a complete picture of the end result when they start painting? Sometimes I have a solid idea of the entire colour scheme when I start, sometimes I have a vague notion of the general vibe, sometimes I'm painting with a colour, have some left on my palette and go "You know what else would look good this colour? That one guys pants" and fish a figure out the pile o' shame. And just because I have a solid idea doesnt mean i always stick to it either. Sometimes the idea just doesnt work when you put it down, what you thought would be striking turns out to just not work on the figure and you pivot to something else. As for picking out details, mainly by making them a contrasting colour to the surrounding material if that would make sense (so a pouch might be a different brown than the belt its attached to, a hilt or pommel might be gold or brass next to the steel blade, that kind of thing) or by highlighting them (this can be a drybrush or a painted on highlight depending on what it is and how much effort you want to expend). Some video I watched years ago suggested something like one round of highlights for everything below the waist, 2 rounds for the middle of the figure, and 3 rounds for faces and the highest points which I'd say is not to take as a hard and fast rule but is worth bearing in mind as a starting point if you arent sure how much you want to do. If you've highlighted the face and weapon then honestly thats 90% of what people notice anyway. And as everyone else says, its done when you say it is, its your figure. Personally my basic workflow is "If it has basecoats, a wash and at least one round of highlights then its good enough. Anything I add after that is because I want to." And I find I usually do want to, but some figures I have called done at that point either because I'm not feeling it or because they actually look good enough that spending more time wouldnt improve them that much. Sometimes good enough is. If you arent sure then put it down for the night and come back with fresh eyes, does it look good, and do you want to do more? Generally when I start thinking "Is this finished?" it means it more or less is tbh, but that might be something you kind of get a feel for as you paint more. I'll also point out you can 100% add to a model even if its been varnished, it just means you'll probably have to varnish it again to even out the finish when you are done. Not a big deal. So if you decide its done varnish it, put it with your finished figures. If, a year from now, you decide that you want to go back and add or change whatever you absolutely can do that. So calling something done isnt something I've ever really worried about because I can always change my mind.
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Sep 13, 2023 18:17
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It is done when you are no longer enjoying painting it further.
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Sep 13, 2023 18:25
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Lumpy posted:It is done when you are no longer enjoying painting it further. This. It happens faster for GW minis for me since they have all sorts of crap to paint but I’ve mostly just taken to painting only a couple bits and doing a general highlight or shadow for the rest of it. One other thing to remember is that you’re not trying to paint the perfect mini. You have a lot of plastic to cover, so move on after you’ve seen the mistakes of the current mini. Even if it’s a competition piece.
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Sep 13, 2023 18:34
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Lumpy posted:It is done when you are no longer enjoying painting it further. Ah, so all my primed backlog counts as painted. Cool.
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Sep 13, 2023 18:42
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