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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

This sounds great in theory and I wish I was a better person and would do that but for $20 I can get a brand new blade and I have to imagine sharpening the 300500+ teeth on a 186" blade is gonna take an hour or three? I pretty much treat bandsaw blades as consumable and use the steel to make scratch stocks and stuff.

It's like 5 seconds per tooth once you get the rhythm down, so that's only a couple of minutes for your 500-tooth blade. It's comparable to the amount of time it takes to remove and replace the blade with a new one.

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah sharpening hand saws is similarly fast and easy. You just touch each tooth with the tool once and then advance the blade. Very different from sharpening chisels and plane irons. One stroke with a saw file per tooth is all you need to keep a saw sharp, and it's gotta be similar for the bandsaw.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
Does anybody else here have one of those old Craftsman style 3 wheel bandsaws? I've got one that I've used a few times but it's janky as gently caress to set up so the blade doesn't walk off the wheels, is shouty and grindy, and doesn't like to cut straight. The wheels aren't even on bearings, they're brass or bronze? Bushings on a steel spindle with a little inner well for grease :barf: . Was wondering if anyone here has managed to tune any of these up to a good level to actually be useful in the shop. I don't have the space or funds for a proper dual wheel bandsaw yet, but I'd like to get some effective use out of this unit.


Here's a video of me cutting some ply on mine, was making little triangles that were the painted as little mountain table numbers for my wedding


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz5mN_Pj8fM

Also here's some of the woodworking projects I made for my wedding, I made all the signs from lumber I reclaimed from a weathered 12' long wood crate, and I made all the wood cookies from a Birch tree my parents had cut down in their yard. The cookies were a right pain, rigged up a chainsaw for the cuts and spent 2 days feeding them through on the planer to square them up. I painted the mountains entirely by hand, and used white vinyl from a cricut for the other signs. My wife was super stoked about how they all turned out, so I was pretty happy with it :shobon: (scrubbed any identifying info from the photos)



Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I have a 3/4" 3 tpi blade without any fancy stuff (Starrett I think) on my bandsaw, and unless I do something bone-headed like leaving a guide loose or feed it wonky, the cut is clean enough that a few swipes with a lightly set plane cleans it right up.

Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Sep 11, 2023

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

does anyone actually tune their bandsaw up so tight a resawed board isn't going to need planing or sanding anyway? I can get it down to maybe 1/16" of travel when I'm cutting thin stock for inlays and can take all day about it but yeah I've never seen someone pull a piece straight off the saw and slap it in an assembly without a bunch of surfacing work that's gotta happen anyway

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Sep 11, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

does anyone actually tune their bandsaw up so tight a resawed board isn't going to need planing or sanding anyway? I can get it down to maybe 1/16" of travel when I'm cutting thin stock for inlays and can take all day about it but yeah I've never seen someone pull a piece straight off the saw and slap it in an assembly without a bunch of surfacing work that's gotta happen anyway

I was very impressed by what my old boss was doing with a NotWoodslicer (whatever fancy resaw blade Woodcraft Bands was selling at the time). It left an almost planed finish, easily cleaned up with a card scraper or DA sander. IIRC it has a pretty flat tooth without much rake or hook at all so it cut pretty slowly.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Mederlock posted:

Does anybody else here have one of those old Craftsman style 3 wheel bandsaws? I've got one that I've used a few times but it's janky as gently caress to set up so the blade doesn't walk off the wheels, is shouty and grindy, and doesn't like to cut straight. The wheels aren't even on bearings, they're brass or bronze? Bushings on a steel spindle with a little inner well for grease :barf: . Was wondering if anyone here has managed to tune any of these up to a good level to actually be useful in the shop. I don't have the space or funds for a proper dual wheel bandsaw yet, but I'd like to get some effective use out of this unit.
The 3 wheel design isn't bad per say and gives you a ton of cutting length for chip clearance and a cool blade and a really deep throat but setting up the tracking on 3 wheels is more than twice the work of setting up 2 wheels. You mostly see it on big industrial saws and meat bandsaws.

Now that Craftsman, I had one for a while because I thought it would be a cool design. The basic flaw in it is that every single thing about it was designed around being cheap as gently caress. It will never track well because even if it's theoretically possible, the construction of that little fucker won't hold it for longer than a day. Better have a blade welder too because the actual right size blades for it are an expensive bitch to get. For a while I ran close enough but not exact blades through it and that just made it run worse. Honestly I would sell it to the next sucker and get a better saw as soon as you are able.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

The junk collector posted:

The 3 wheel design isn't bad per say and gives you a ton of cutting length for chip clearance and a cool blade and a really deep throat but setting up the tracking on 3 wheels is more than twice the work of setting up 2 wheels. You mostly see it on big industrial saws and meat bandsaws.

Now that Craftsman, I had one for a while because I thought it would be a cool design. The basic flaw in it is that every single thing about it was designed around being cheap as gently caress. It will never track well because even if it's theoretically possible, the construction of that little fucker won't hold it for longer than a day. Better have a blade welder too because the actual right size blades for it are an expensive bitch to get. For a while I ran close enough but not exact blades through it and that just made it run worse. Honestly I would sell it to the next sucker and get a better saw as soon as you are able.

I had a small 3 wheel delta and I also found that because the wheels are a pretty small diameter it put lots of extra stress on the blades bending them over those wheels, which in turn meant lots of broken blades. I would break a blade per project with my small 3 wheel saw, I don't think I've ever broken a blade on my bigger saw.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

And then promptly did something dumb and put a little kink in the new blade. :negative:

I'll go one dumber. I have a 15" Grizzly bandsaw and just use a general purpose blade. Maybe 5/8" 6tpi. I decided to do a quick cut on a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod and figured out it was steel when the sparks started flying. I put on my backup blade and was back in business until I needed to cut a couple inches off the backside of one of those cutting boards that slides in under the counter above the silverware drawer to make room to run some plumbing and wiring. I got about 1/3 of the way through and saw sparks. Things got a little smoky after that and I got more sparks 2/3 of the way through, but I pressed on because there was no turning back at this point. Turns out, there were two steel strips embedded in the cutting board to keep it straight and I completely chooched that blade as well.

On a related note, does anybody have any ideas on how to repurpose chooched bandsaw blades?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Skunkduster posted:

I'll go one dumber. I have a 15" Grizzly bandsaw and just use a general purpose blade. Maybe 5/8" 6tpi. I decided to do a quick cut on a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod and figured out it was steel when the sparks started flying. I put on my backup blade and was back in business until I needed to cut a couple inches off the backside of one of those cutting boards that slides in under the counter above the silverware drawer to make room to run some plumbing and wiring. I got about 1/3 of the way through and saw sparks. Things got a little smoky after that and I got more sparks 2/3 of the way through, but I pressed on because there was no turning back at this point. Turns out, there were two steel strips embedded in the cutting board to keep it straight and I completely chooched that blade as well.

On a related note, does anybody have any ideas on how to repurpose chooched bandsaw blades?

Cut them to the length of your hacksaw handle, drill a hole in each end in the right spot, profit. If you want to be real fancy, do the same thing but make a bow saw from scratch :science:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I grind the teeth off and use them for all kinds of stuff. Scratch stocks, odd little scrapers for funny little mouldings, scraping glue out of corners. They’re good steel and one bandsaw blade’s worth will keep you in scratch stocks for a decade.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

They're pretty good spring material for retaining clips and latches in a pinch but I'm a freak who rolls his own hardware to justify hoarding crap like that

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Sep 12, 2023

Lager
Mar 9, 2004

Give me the secret to the anti-puppet equation!

I have some questions about finishing that I'm hoping have easy answers...Some context, I was born with hyposmia and I have very little sense of smell. There's only a few things that I can reliably detect by odor, and so I am very paranoid about fumes and other emissions because I can't smell them at all.

I've been doing small projects for a few months now, and usually I just let the pieces sit in the garage for a few weeks before I give them out to friends and family because I don't see them for a while anyway, but I'm currently wrapping up a table for a friend of mine that is going to hold a small terrarium for a pet frog. I'm dropping it off next weekend, but I just finished sanding last night and was planning to start applying finish later today or tomorrow and I want to make sure there's no fumes by the time I drop it off. I was planning to use water based poly since it's going inside, but there could be some water splashes that get on the wood occasionally from the terrarium so I figured the poly would help protect it. I tried searching around online but my head is spinning and a lot of sites just talked about "once the fumes dissipate" for knowing when it's safe, and obviously that does me no good. Since an animal will be living on this thing I want to make sure it's not spitting out anything toxic. Does water-based poly emit any concerning fumes? How long do those take to go away fully, to where an animal could hang out on top of the table safely?

Edit: Or is there a better finish to consider that would provide safe, fume-free protection for this use in a short timeframe?

Edit2: VVV Thanks!

Lager fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 12, 2023

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I've finished pine shelves for my dart frogs with water based poly. It's done outgassing and smelling bad within an hour or two and it's cured in 24 hours. I had fragile frogs living on top of those shelves 2 days after I applied the last coat. You'll be fine.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


That exchange right there might be one of the most remarkable posting exchanges I have ever seen in my 30+ years of being online: I have an extremely specific request about the interactions between a particular wood finish and an uncommon but sensitive pet. The woodworking thread replies within five minutes with a first-hand experience breakdown for that exact situation with those specific factors. Why settle for less?

This thread lol. It's amazing that it's not the most bookmarked thread on the whole internet.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

haha well here you go, details!

The actual shelves


the actual water-based poly I used


Three thick coats, with very light sanding between, to get a good water-resistant finish.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

CommonShore posted:

That exchange right there might be one of the most remarkable posting exchanges I have ever seen in my 30+ years of being online: I have an extremely specific request about the interactions between a particular wood finish and an uncommon but sensitive pet. The woodworking thread replies within five minutes with a first-hand experience breakdown for that exact situation with those specific factors. Why settle for less?

This thread lol. It's amazing that it's not the most bookmarked thread on the whole internet.

SA may be a dead gay comedy forum, but it's our dead gay comedy forum, drat it! :iia:

Came for the video games, stayed for the huge breadth of human experience and great discussion. :shobon:

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

CommonShore posted:

That exchange right there might be one of the most remarkable posting exchanges I have ever seen in my 30+ years of being online: I have an extremely specific request about the interactions between a particular wood finish and an uncommon but sensitive pet. The woodworking thread replies within five minutes with a first-hand experience breakdown for that exact situation with those specific factors. Why settle for less?

This thread lol. It's amazing that it's not the most bookmarked thread on the whole internet.

It reminds me of the guy that lurked for 20 years until he got his 4x4 stuck in the mountains and then posted for help, which he got within like 15 minutes

Lager
Mar 9, 2004

Give me the secret to the anti-puppet equation!

CommonShore posted:

That exchange right there might be one of the most remarkable posting exchanges I have ever seen in my 30+ years of being online: I have an extremely specific request about the interactions between a particular wood finish and an uncommon but sensitive pet. The woodworking thread replies within five minutes with a first-hand experience breakdown for that exact situation with those specific factors. Why settle for less?

This thread lol. It's amazing that it's not the most bookmarked thread on the whole internet.

Yeah, that was pretty much amazing and I am feeling much better about giving this frog a nice house that won't poison him, hahaha.

Leperflesh posted:

haha well here you go, details!

The actual shelves


the actual water-based poly I used


Three thick coats, with very light sanding between, to get a good water-resistant finish.

Awesome setup! Should be able to knock that out over this evening and tomorrow, in time to bring the console over on Saturday without any issue then. She only has the one frog, but looking forward to giving his terrarium a little more space off the kitchen table.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Oh nice! Dendrobates tinctorius "azureus," one of the more striking of the "tinks", a gregarious and bold species. I've never owned one but I've seen many at the frog meets we used to go to.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
That's a fine looking frog

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Leperflesh posted:

I've finished pine shelves for my dart frogs with water based poly. It's done outgassing and smelling bad within an hour or two and it's cured in 24 hours. I had fragile frogs living on top of those shelves 2 days after I applied the last coat. You'll be fine.

Water based Poly- It's frog safe!

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'
I’ve been poking around the web for how to make stupid simple plywood cabinet boxes and I’ve got the gist. But the guides are largely about kitchen cabinets and I’m looking to make big flat paper storage (something like 32x40 inch drawer capacity). Will the plan be essentially the same with maybe a vertical stringer or two on the back, or will it require a fundamentally different structure?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

dupersaurus posted:

I’ve been poking around the web for how to make stupid simple plywood cabinet boxes and I’ve got the gist. But the guides are largely about kitchen cabinets and I’m looking to make big flat paper storage (something like 32x40 inch drawer capacity). Will the plan be essentially the same with maybe a vertical stringer or two on the back, or will it require a fundamentally different structure?

I think probably basically the same, but the search term you want is "map cabinet" because that's basically what you're making. We have one (commercially made) that my wife got for holding flat paper stuff, like artwork. It's pretty stout, because it's mid-century modern furniture grade cabinetry designed to hold a lot of weight, stack, and not move. But I'm sure you could do it in ply.

I imagine the main challenge is keeping drawers from sagging in the middle. You might want a bit thicker drawer bottoms, well supported on all four edges by the drawer frame. Similarly, your drawer slides should probably include a center rail under the drawer for support, not just edge slides.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


dupersaurus posted:

I’ve been poking around the web for how to make stupid simple plywood cabinet boxes and I’ve got the gist. But the guides are largely about kitchen cabinets and I’m looking to make big flat paper storage (something like 32x40 inch drawer capacity). Will the plan be essentially the same with maybe a vertical stringer or two on the back, or will it require a fundamentally different structure?

Is that 32"wx40"D or 40"Wx32"D deep? Are you looking at face frame construction or frameless? If face frame, I don't think you would have any problem, for frameless you may want to add a reinforcing strip horizontally to the top and bottom, front and back. Are you going to have horizontal drawer dividers and wood on wood drawers or just drawer slides mounted to the side of the cabinet case? Looks like the Blum Movento line of undermounts comes in a 30" length max, but there are ways to make those work on a longer drawer. It would only open 30", but it's pretty easy to remove the drawer if you need access to the full depth. Downside is they are reasonably expensive as that is Blum's heavy duty line, but Blum drawer slides are a pleasure to use and install. I'd stay away from side-mount drawer slides because they are much, much more finicky.

I'd worry more about the drawers than the cabinet itself. I would make the drawer bottoms out of 1/2" ply instead of 1/4," 1/2" drawer sides should still be fine. Are they going to hold alot of weight or just like prints and stuff? If just prints, that's probably all you need to do, if it's like, a whole ream of paper you may want something under the middle of the drawer bottom to keep it from sagging.

Plz post whatever you come up with because I need to build something similar for my drawings.

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'
Oh yeah map cabinet is a good term, I’ll dig around there.

This is my inspiration and roughly what I’m aiming for



I haven’t put thought into making it pretty and probably won’t too much, but if full face helps with strength that sounds cool.

40” wide 32 deep, somewhere around workbench height. I figure I don’t need full extension so 28-30” slides would probably be good enough.

I don’t think I’ll be loading the drawers too much. I might make one or two deep strong ones for mat board, but I don’t usually have a lot of paper laying around.

Really my big concern is that I gotta do it all with a circular saw so that’ll be fun. Although I could probably buy a track saw and still come out on top over buying cabinets.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Build a track for your circular saw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbTvzViDZmo

You can make crosscut jigs too

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'
I’ve got that kreg track thing, it’s good just have to be studious about it

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

dupersaurus posted:

Oh yeah map cabinet is a good term, I’ll dig around there.

This is my inspiration and roughly what I’m aiming for



I haven’t put thought into making it pretty and probably won’t too much, but if full face helps with strength that sounds cool.

40” wide 32 deep, somewhere around workbench height. I figure I don’t need full extension so 28-30” slides would probably be good enough.

I don’t think I’ll be loading the drawers too much. I might make one or two deep strong ones for mat board, but I don’t usually have a lot of paper laying around.

Really my big concern is that I gotta do it all with a circular saw so that’ll be fun. Although I could probably buy a track saw and still come out on top over buying cabinets.

That's a plotting table or map cabinet yeah

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


dupersaurus posted:

Oh yeah map cabinet is a good term, I’ll dig around there.

This is my inspiration and roughly what I’m aiming for



I haven’t put thought into making it pretty and probably won’t too much, but if full face helps with strength that sounds cool.

40” wide 32 deep, somewhere around workbench height. I figure I don’t need full extension so 28-30” slides would probably be good enough.

I don’t think I’ll be loading the drawers too much. I might make one or two deep strong ones for mat board, but I don’t usually have a lot of paper laying around.

Really my big concern is that I gotta do it all with a circular saw so that’ll be fun. Although I could probably buy a track saw and still come out on top over buying cabinets.
Hmm building a cabinet with a bunch of skinny drawers is absolutely do-able with only a circ saw, but its probably not gonna be a whole lot of fun. Making cabinets (and especially drawers) is pretty easy if you can make consistently sized parts in batches, but circ saws really aren't great at that. If you had access to a table saw to make all your rips a very consistent width, that would make this much more pleasant. Same deal for a chop saw + stop block for conistent lengths. Maybe someone has come up with a clever circ saw jig for doing that. Similarly, ripping narrow stuff for a face frame could get fairly unsafe with just a circ saw, so frameless might be a better option and is easier to build anyway. If you use a 1/2" back screwed or nailed onto the back of the case it should be strong enough, doubly so if you can attach one side to a wall or it is part of a desk unit like your picture. Instead of a drawer bottom captured in a groove like normal drawer construction, it'll probably be easier to just nail/screw/staple the bottoms to the bottom of the drawer sides. Downside of that is you might have to do some hijinks to make undermount drawer slides work, but sidemounts would work fine. Undermounts also eat up a decent bit of vertical space, so sidemounts might be better overall even tho I hate them and think they're a PITA. You could also make pretty simple wood on wood drawers where you screw runners to the case sides. Make them tight to the top and bottom of the drawer to keep the drawer from tipping. Again tho, you're losing 3/4" of vertical space every time, but its definitely the cheapest option (tho without a table saw, maybe not the easiest). Pocket screws are totally fine for joinery if you already have a jig but if you don't screwed butt joints are stronger and easier.

e: this might work for the drawers too-leave the drawer bottom protruding by a certain amount and capture that with grooves (either cut into the case sides or made via applied runners).

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 14, 2023

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Go check your local woodworking/lumber shop, they will might have 60” long birch drawer sides for sale. I bought some 5/8” thick ones with a dado and a rounded top. Even if don’t you probably pay them a few bucks rip down a sheet of plywood for you.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
Been puttering away making a built in below our basement TV from some oak bits I’ve got.


Put some oak faced 1/4” panels to close in the sides to hide the drywall.


Got the panels roughed up.


I’ve got undermount drawer slides to figure out for a first time.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I did some auction bidding this week and went to pick some stuff up from a cabinetmaker's retirement sale - I didn't win anything good, just a few of the extras I bid on while going after lots of wood, but the guy chatted me up for a while and gave me a tour of his shop. He had a setup which had a door making machine and a big CNC (neither of which sold... more on that in a minute) as the centrepiece. This door maker is like a shaper with a modular, customizable cutting head and a bunch of other work holding features, the equivalent of a cabinet saw but for a shaper. It can basically instantly switch between tools to do all of the cuts necessary for a 5-piece cabinet door. With his glue station he claimed he could make 70 doors from prepped stock through cutting, fitting, and gluing in a day of work.

Anyway, some of his big machinery didn't sell (because he (and I agree) feels that the auction company was incompetent), and there's enough there, with all of the dust collection and 3-phase infrastructure, to basically have a business running in the space tomorrow. There's still the door maker, the CNC, two cabinet saws, and I think the edge bander, all in place ready to go. He's wanting to sell everything, up to and including the building and the land. I told him that I'd tell my internet weirdo friends about his stuff, so if you are seriously interested in this equipment (which is worth tens of thousands, to hundreds of thousands of dollars, depending on the piece, and very much worth shipping even internationally), or at the prospect of buying a setup for making cabinets with no competition within 200 km in rural western Canada, DM me and I'll send you his info.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

yeah I see auctions like that all the time, you can get spectacular deals if you're the one person willing to deal with it but if you can't move it with two dudes and a box truck nobody's going to bid on it, and there's a reason he's got no competition in 200km; dude really needed to start lining up a buyer or train up an apprentice to take over the business a few years ago

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

yeah I see auctions like that all the time, you can get spectacular deals if you're the one person willing to deal with it but if you can't move it with two dudes and a box truck nobody's going to bid on it, and there's a reason he's got no competition in 200km; dude really needed to start lining up a buyer or train up an apprentice to take over the business a few years ago

Pretty much. The kind of person in a position to take over a shop like this is already running a full shop. 3-phase means you are running a business and you probably have all the real equipment you need. Hobbyists won't have the capacity for or ability to even move the big equipment. Also depending on where the shop is, good luck getting a CO to put your own business in there. Unless you can inherit his CO along with his full business the local city council will have plans to redevelop that area and that does not include manufacturing things 100% of the time.

Meanwhile, moving something like that CNC router is going to cost you $10k from the riggers and then if anything goes wrong you are looking at the CNC local rep charging $15k to send someone out for repairs. Even if you can fix the CNC yourself, it's often a nightmare to get the company to send you documentation.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Yeah it's all a shame. The set up is quite grand, with the phase converters and everything, which is why he'd love to sell the business and his house as a unit for someone to take over. His big drum sander and planer are going about 2000 km, and when I was in there he was in the process of trying to sell the CNC to the same buyer.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Sockington posted:

Been puttering away making a built in below our basement TV from some oak bits I’ve got.
I’ve got undermount drawer slides to figure out for a first time.


I feel less crappy about my projects once they get a coat of Danish Oil. Then it’s “okay, not terrible I guess”


I’m on nights for a month, so finding daytime motivation to make my drawer will be low for the next bit.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I wanted about 1/2 bf of spalted or ambrosia maple for a box top. My lumberyard only has it in 5/4 and 6/4 full length boards.

Now I have 10 1/2 bf of ambrosia maple. This is gonna last a while.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I can relate to this, especially with veneers. This zebrawood is nice and would make good borders, it comes in a 2' x 10' sheet, that should only last a lifetime or two.

My ladderback chair is pretty much done. My wife seemed interested in trying some weaving, so I'm letting her tackle the seat. Overall it was a fun build, I wasn't sure how it would all go together. The back legs are curved and splayed out and the seat is trapezoidal, and all the parts are round, so getting the holes for the rungs to line up took some headscratching. I only miss-drilled 4 rungs that I had to plug. It seems to be a pretty forgiving form though as the other holes didn't seem to line up perfect, but it managed to all go together. The back legs and back slats are bent laminations.

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

well, that looks amazing

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