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IOwnCalculus posted:If for no other reason, I'll keep shilling for Ecobee because of beestat.io. Same. If you don't already, consider donating to the guys patreon too.
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Sep 2, 2023 00:06
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:41 |
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I have a question about fans and ducting for a portable, wheeled AC unit. Wall mounting isn't allowed here, it has to be portable. I live in a studio apartment that's above a garage. It has two windows. My large front window opens in front of my neighbor's doorway. I also have a very small window in a small bathroom. That large window is only a few feet from a neighbor's doorway, and it's right in front of a narrow walkway. So I'd want to avoid blasting the hot air into her apartment or into the faces of people walking past my place. Putting the AC in the bathroom doesn't let me feel the AC in the rest of the apartment. And if I want to place it out of the bathroom and past the bathroom/closet doorways I'd need to basically double the hose length to something like 20 feet. Are there any options that'd keep me from blowing hot air into my neighbor's place or that would let me use extra long hoses for the air vents?
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Sep 2, 2023 01:48
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get a 90* duct piece of the appropriate size so the air is directed up or down. no air in people's faces.
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Sep 2, 2023 02:14
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How do I angle it if I can't have it jutting out of the window?
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Sep 2, 2023 11:52
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nwin posted:
Coming back to this. Maybe a month ago or more I noticed some water dripping from the air ducts upstairs (2 out of 4 ducts would drip). People Mentioned there was probably a gap in the insulation causing condensation to accumulate. I had the ac guy out for annual service and he said he didn’t see anything wrong. It was cooler with no humidity when he was out so I’m guessing he didn’t crawl back there to the duct locations. Welp, one of the ducts dripped yesterday so I went up this morning to look. The two vents which have dripped in the past had about one foot of no insulation near the drywall. I didn’t take a picture but the ac was a non retrofit. There was rolled insulation against the drywall in the attic and instead of cutting it to fit around the new ductwork, the installers just moved it to the side, installed the ductwork into the drywall, and left the rolled insulation rolled on top of itself. I sprayed some expanding foam around the duct boot and fixed the rolled insulation so it actually insulates. It’s going to get hot here this week so we’ll see how effective it is. One question: the insulation that goes around the ductwork-the bottom part of it (at least the three inches or so I could feel) was soaked. I squeezed out some of the water like a sponge but I’m not sure what to do next. Should I try and get a 3 or 4 foot piece and replace it or will it likely dry out on its own? It looks kinda like this. There’s nothing wrong with the duct itself, just the bottom part of insulation being wet: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R8-Silver-Jacket-F8IFD4X300/202562739 Located in Connecticut so we’ve got some dry weather coming after this heat wave.
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Sep 2, 2023 15:06
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Only just realized my filter rack has a pre and post filter spot, of which I have neither. Do they help enough to justify the expense? It's otherwise a 16x25x5.
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Sep 4, 2023 21:33
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Jenkl posted:Only just realized my filter rack has a pre and post filter spot, of which I have neither. Depends on what you have going on. If you have a lot of pet hair and are using very expensive filters maybe a cheaper prefilter will help?
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Sep 4, 2023 22:00
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Do not recommend pre, post, or more than one filter in general, except on very specific commercial applications. Most residential systems will not be able to take additional flow resistance.
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Sep 4, 2023 23:22
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Yeah, that's a good point. I was referring to blue nothings in front. Not a real filter. Even that probably isn't a good idea.
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Sep 4, 2023 23:24
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At x5 depth I would be surprised if you needed anything other than that. You would need some seriously dusty pets. Ours comes out once a year looking gross as hell but I also live in wildfire land.
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Sep 4, 2023 23:45
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Great feedback thanks y'all. I don't think we have anything to warrant needing one. I'm pretty hairy but we should be ok.
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Sep 4, 2023 23:56
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Well I appear to have found the HVAC company I want to work with - suggested by my realtor no less. They did the pre-purchase inspection of the duct in the attic (via photos) and gave me straight answers. Now I had them out to quote a replacement and they have been by far the most thorough. Responsive to questions, not just spitballing unit sizing etc. Took a bunch of measurements before even being willing to discuss what I needed, etc, and yesterday when I called to get something minor changed on the bid he turned it around in 30 minutes. Then in a bit called and told me to hold off signing it because he wants to come out and re-do some return air volume calculations because he doesn't feel confident in them anymore after another job he did. Second vendor is who I used for my current houses replacement and they were the next best, and likely would be totally fine. Third is a company that ripped off the my inlaws several times over my objections so I brought them out to waste their time. They did have transparent pricing in that he had a binder of models and their standard rates to install them. Then they wrote in the bid they would reuse the existing (OLD, BEAT, R-22) lineset. Neat.
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Sep 9, 2023 18:42
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I just disassembled and cleaned all the blowers and parts of my ductless units. It was basically growing a forest in there. I noticed there's a lot of products that you put a tablet or something in the condensation tray and it keeps mildew down. Any of them worth it?
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Sep 12, 2023 18:44
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Super-NintendoUser posted:I just disassembled and cleaned all the blowers and parts of my ductless units. It was basically growing a forest in there. I noticed there's a lot of products that you put a tablet or something in the condensation tray and it keeps mildew down. Any of them worth it? They keep the slime from growing in the drain lines, they aren't going to address stuff on the blowers/coil.
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Sep 13, 2023 01:12
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mini splits are notorious for becoming fungus farms. various people make a kit that you hang under them to allow you to blast em with a hose.
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Sep 13, 2023 01:52
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devicenull posted:They keep the slime from growing in the drain lines, they aren't going to address stuff on the blowers/coil. Makes sense, wouldn't I still want that too?
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Sep 13, 2023 02:42
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MRC48B posted:mini splits are notorious for becoming fungus farms. various people make a kit that you hang under them to allow you to blast em with a hose.
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Sep 13, 2023 02:42
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Super-NintendoUser posted:I just disassembled and cleaned all the blowers and parts of my ductless units. It was basically growing a forest in there. I noticed there's a lot of products that you put a tablet or something in the condensation tray and it keeps mildew down. Any of them worth it? https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-42...&sr=1-1-catcorr We use these ridiculous Daikins that have a styrofoam condensate pan so I tossed one of these in a bucket of water with a piece of styrofoam to test and it seems safe. One of our guys used traditional coil cleaner that ate the drat pan and caused a bunch of problems. So far these have worked great, though.
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Sep 15, 2023 13:09
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Just bought a house, 1970s construction, finished basement, it has abandoned in slab ducts. This morning the finished basement smelled 'wet'. Looking around for excess moisture, it looks like the A/C condensate line is draining into the abandoned slab ducts? This doesn't seem right.   I don't have a drain nearby, I am thinking I should go buy one of these guys and have it drain into the utility sink.  I already have a dehumidifier that is set to 50%. Is this a sane plan? Is this a larger problem than just slapping in a condensate pump?
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Sep 19, 2023 16:33
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Don't drain condensate to the sanitary sewer system. It should be going outside.
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Sep 19, 2023 16:41
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Speaking of condensate lines, the line of my mini-split clogged and the unit started dripping water yesterday. I took my shop-vac with a very small attachment to it and sucked everything and it's fine now, but I'm wondering if there's something more I should be doing? Looking into the hose there were some kind of fatty-looking deposits, my first instinct being to call them AC boogers. The shop-vac pulled out the ones at the end that I could see, but any idea what that build up could be? Is there something I can put in the condensate tray to keep that from building up? Do I just need to take a vacuum to the hose as part of annual maintenance?
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Sep 19, 2023 17:18
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Ok, should be easy to run the ac condensate outside. Thanks.
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Sep 19, 2023 17:21
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Motronic posted:Don't drain condensate to the sanitary sewer system. It should be going outside. Why? I mean obv. don't plumb it in, but aren't they usually drained into a floor drain or utility sink?
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Sep 19, 2023 17:40
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Motronic posted:Don't drain condensate to the sanitary sewer system. It should be going outside. Why? My HVAC systems drain to the bathroom vanity drains using a wye branch tailpiece. It's up to code and how most of the newer construction is done around here. The hvac condensate overflow pan drains outside, right in front of my front door so it's easy to see if there's an issue. Draining HVAC condensate to a utility sink is specifically allowed in the IPC. Obviously you don't want to directly connect the line to the sewer system so you don't pull sewer gasses into your hvac system, but it seems perfectly acceptable to discharge ac condensate to the sewer system
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Sep 19, 2023 17:49
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I was also wondering about dehumidifier condensate. At the moment it gravity drains into a floor drain. If I replace the thing I'll get one that pumps outside, but for the moment I hope to leave it alone.
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Sep 19, 2023 17:53
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Gravity draining to a floor drain or utility sink is perfectly fine. I've only seen draining to the outside done when the unit is right on an exterior wall. Just make sure it's an indirect connection and you'll be fine.
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Sep 19, 2023 18:21
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Slanderer posted:Why? I mean obv. don't plumb it in, but aren't they usually drained into a floor drain or utility sink? It's specifically disallowed by code in most places. Do not trust looking up the generic version of the IPMC 2008 or whatever your municipality is on: you have to actually look at how your municipality adopted it and what changes they made. It's typically going to be listed in the ordnance adopting it originally or perhaps the addendums for code update adoptions (yes, I know it's ridiculous) and it's a very, very common variance. Your code enforcement department should know this if you ask. If you live somewhere that it's allowed then go for it per code. But it's one of the most commonly changed-on-adoption things from the I-codes I've ever seen.
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Sep 19, 2023 19:27
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Motronic posted:It's specifically disallowed by code in most places. Do not trust looking up the generic version of the IPMC 2008 or whatever your municipality is on: you have to actually look at how your municipality adopted it and what changes they made. It's typically going to be listed in the ordnance adopting it originally or perhaps the addendums for code update adoptions (yes, I know it's ridiculous) and it's a very, very common variance. Your code enforcement department should know this if you ask. What's the rationale for disallowing it assuming it is done through a sink/drain, or other 'appropriate' method?
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Sep 19, 2023 19:43
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ROJO posted:What's the rationale for disallowing it assuming it is done through a sink/drain, or other 'appropriate' method? I know that, at least in my municipality, part of what you are paying for in your water bill is the cost to treat the water on the other end. So any water that enters the sanitary sewer that didn't come out of your tap is water treatment that isn't getting paid for. For instance, I believe it is not uncommon practice in my area for unpermitted sump pumps to drain into the sanitary sewer, but this is not up to code. The sump pump example also has other consequences in times of really bad rains.
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Sep 19, 2023 19:48
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Danhenge posted:I know that, at least in my municipality, part of what you are paying for in your water bill is the cost to treat the water on the other end. So any water that enters the sanitary sewer that didn't come out of your tap is water treatment that isn't getting paid for. For instance, I believe it is not uncommon practice in my area for unpermitted sump pumps to drain into the sanitary sewer, but this is not up to code. The sump pump example also has other consequences in times of really bad rains. It's both this and limited sanitary sewer capacity. It also makes it difficult to predict required sanitary sewer and treatment capacity. My municipality and all those around me amend the sewer connected sumps and condensate drains out for those reasons.
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Sep 19, 2023 19:51
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horse_ebookmarklet posted:Just bought a house, 1970s construction, finished basement, it has abandoned in slab ducts. Where's the green garden hose go? It almost looks like there's a sump pump down there? It would not surprise me if your sub-slab ducts had water in them (speaking as someone who also has sub-slab ducts). I would advise capping those ducts too, you aren't doing yourself any favors letting the moisture/radon up from them (they're actually kinda perfect for radon system if you need one)
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Sep 20, 2023 00:07
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Motronic posted:It's specifically disallowed by code in most places. Do not trust looking up the generic version of the IPMC 2008 or whatever your municipality is on: you have to actually look at how your municipality adopted it and what changes they made. It's typically going to be listed in the ordnance adopting it originally or perhaps the addendums for code update adoptions (yes, I know it's ridiculous) and it's a very, very common variance. Your code enforcement department should know this if you ask. i checked the code for Pittsburgh and it seems to be allowed, if there's an air gap or air break. They make a big fuss about not returning water using for cooling to the supply but they're fine with normal condensate entering the drainage system edit: got bored and checked Chicago too and its explicitly allowed 18-28-307.2 Evaporators and cooling coils. Condensate drain systems shall be provided for all equipment and appliances containing evaporators or cooling coils. Condensate drain systems shall be designed, constructed and installed in accordance with Sections 18-28-307.2.1 through 18-28-307.2.5. 18-28-307.2.1 Condensate disposal. Condensate from all cooling coils or evaporators shall be conveyed by gravity, vacuum or pumped from the drain pan outlet to an approved place of disposal as follows: 1. Units larger than 6 tons (21.1 kW) nominal capacity shall discharge to a sanitary sewer drain, storm sewer drain or a French drain constructed in accordance with Section 18-28-307.2.1.1. If condensate is discharged to a sanitary sewer, such drains shall be indirectly connected in accordance with the Chapter 18-29 of the Plumbing Code. 2. Units 6 tons (21.1 kW) and smaller nominal capacity shall discharge in accordance with Item 1, or shall discharge to a gutter, roof drain or other approved location. 3. Condensate drains from rooftop units shall discharge in accordance with Item 1 or 2, or shall discharge onto rooftops constructed to prevent the condensate from discharging into a street, alley or other areas so as to cause a nuisance. 4. Condensate may be pumped or conveyed by vacuum as long as no other systems are connected to the condensate removal system. edit 2: in philly you can discharge AC condensate into a laundy sink, but only 1 or 2 family residences can discharge it outside onto the grass Slanderer fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Sep 20, 2023 |
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Sep 20, 2023 01:38
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devicenull posted:Where's the green garden hose go? It almost looks like there's a sump pump down there? Yeah on the disclosure they mentioned the house flooded about 3 inches in the basement. They installed a pump in the ducts, installed a second pump in the sump pit, regraded the yard, and removed the basement walkout the water came in. The whole block flooded, the city came in and provided home owners with tie ins to the municipal storm sewer for discharge of sump water. I hadn't heard of this before, at first I was concerned it was an illegal connection. I've been wondering about capping them as a moisture source. Primarily the registers in the rooms are still there. I was thinking if I cut back the sheet metal, put some sort of blocking in, and dumping a bag of cement down it would be sufficient in the rooms. Maybe a radon mitigation person can do all that. Only part of the house has these slab ducts, the addition has proper drain tile
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Sep 20, 2023 03:25
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Crossposting from the Plumbing thread, I probably should have put this here in the first place  I've got a radiator that I'd like to remove. The room has 2 rads and is usually too hot, also I need the space for a new couch. The radiator is the lowest one in the house (one of two in the basement). I'm planning on having a company come in and cut/cap the pipe from the main line down to the rad. The main line is near the ceiling in the basement, but still exposed. To get all this done, and to take 2/3rd the cost off the quote, I want to drain and fill the system myself. I have a Viessmann Vitodens 100 boiler (not a combi). I've been through the installation/operating manual and I can't find a procedure to drain/refill the system, it mostly shows how to initially get the boiler system online and filled. Can I just turn off the boiler, wait until it's cold, close the fresh water inlet that feeds the system, open a valve on the bottom of the boiler, and drain all the water out? Should I open the bleed valves on all the rads in the house to help the water drain? When the work is done, to refill the system, just do everything in reverse? https://imgur.com/a/7WyoZue
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Sep 21, 2023 17:29
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Is that a steam or hot water boiler? I know with my steam boiler it's pretty easy, when it's off, all the water condenses and drains back into the central unit where I can easily drain it, but I'm not sure how it would work if it's just hot water. I don't know if they've got water in the pipes at all times or if they end up "draining" like my steam pipes do.
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Sep 21, 2023 19:25
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FISHMANPET posted:Is that a steam or hot water boiler? I know with my steam boiler it's pretty easy, when it's off, all the water condenses and drains back into the central unit where I can easily drain it, but I'm not sure how it would work if it's just hot water. I don't know if they've got water in the pipes at all times or if they end up "draining" like my steam pipes do. It's a hot water boiler.
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Sep 21, 2023 20:40
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epswing posted:It's a hot water boiler. You need to let air in from the highest point in the system or it won't drain completely / well.
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Sep 21, 2023 20:57
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Yes, open up a vent at the top to let air in as you drain. You need to do the reverse when you fill. I'd go to each radiator and open the vent as you fill. Assuming you're filling from the bottom, once you get water coming out the vent, you can close it off and then move up to the next level. You should vent out air at each radiator to be sure. Once it's completely full, turn on the pumps, and I'd go back to the highest vent in your place and crack that vent open and make sure you still don't have air in your system. One of the biggest pains in filling is getting all the air out, you may have to go back a few days later and crack that high vent again as air will start migrating to the top.
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Sep 21, 2023 22:07
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before you go through all that, be absolutely sure they didn't pipe in service isolation manual valves between the main and that radiator.
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Sep 21, 2023 22:31
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:41 |
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H110Hawk posted:You need to let air in from the highest point in the system or it won't drain completely / well. Cool, thanks. Bird in a Blender posted:Yes, open up a vent at the top to let air in as you drain. You need to do the reverse when you fill. I'd go to each radiator and open the vent as you fill. Assuming you're filling from the bottom, once you get water coming out the vent, you can close it off and then move up to the next level. You should vent out air at each radiator to be sure. Once it's completely full, turn on the pumps, and I'd go back to the highest vent in your place and crack that vent open and make sure you still don't have air in your system. One of the biggest pains in filling is getting all the air out, you may have to go back a few days later and crack that high vent again as air will start migrating to the top. I wrench on motorcycles and getting air out of hydraulic systems like brakes sounds like a similar type of pain. MRC48B posted:before you go through all that, be absolutely sure they didn't pipe in service isolation manual valves between the main and that radiator. The main loop is exposed all the way around the house, no valves I can see, other than in the boiler room, and, curiously, on the left side of the one radiator I plan to remove. But I can't turn it in either direction at all. I thought for a minute this was a drain valve for the whole system, but it doesn't seem like it (there's no place to put a hosepipe). 
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Sep 21, 2023 22:53
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