Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Turmoilx posted:

whats the secret to finding a stash of bike screws? hardware stores suck for me so far. i'd like to have spares for crank/brake calipers/stem

For weird bike specific stuff it's gonna be bike shops or keeping leftovers whenever you upgrade bikes parts or fix up old bikes.

For normal non-bike specific stuff Ace Hardwares usually have a good selection of stainless metric stuff with cap and button heads. At least in the PNW, they might use a different distributor elsewhere.
Home Depot has a tiny selection of metric stuff that might work in an emergency but the selection is smaller and the finishing is uglier/heads are larger so they may not work for crank pinch bolts or stem bolts if they're recessed at all

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Coxswain Balls
Jun 4, 2001

https://boltsupply.com/

See if you have a place like that in your industrial area. Just rows and rows and rows of bins of every fastener you can imagine.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Ebay has a vast selection, monsterbolts is one of the bigger sellers - at least I've wound up buying from them a dozen times purely by coincidence and still have a jar full of m5/m4 bolts in various lengths.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I would be very worried about using eBay bolts on things like a stem. It's more than likely okay but if you're riding aggressive stuff and your stem goes you could easily have a life changing accident.

Back it up Terry
Nov 20, 2006

kimbo305 posted:

Take pictures and explain your reinstall methodology.

Ended up recording myself putting on 2 different kinds of pedals. At that point I took it into the local shop and they confirmed the threads on the crank were shot.

Sucks. It’s a brand new canyon grail 6. Both the RX 600 and “equivalent” are out of stock or backorder. So I’m likely going to go with a 48-34T Tiagra.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
ended up not needing a brake caliper bracket for my front fork i learned.. and these 30mm screws i kinda borrowed from the bike shop that i return tomorrow are about ..5mm to long i guess.
they have a weird thing on the end of them too, like stoppers for inside the caliper holes

maybe tomorrow ill have them finish up my project getting the right screws for that and do cables for me, i have yet to take it in i was just ..wingin everything to my best. hopefully it won't be too painful of a payment

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Sep 7, 2023

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I found a chain by the side of the road today.

Guess how worn it was. It’s for eight speeds or less.

It had an elongation of a little over one point nine percent.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Sep 7, 2023

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Turmoilx posted:

ended up not needing a brake caliper bracket for my front fork i learned.. and these 30mm screws i kinda borrowed from the bike shop that i return tomorrow are about ..5mm to long i guess.
they have a weird thing on the end of them too, like stoppers for inside the caliper holes

maybe tomorrow ill have them finish up my project getting the right screws for that and do cables for me, i have yet to take it in i was just ..wingin everything to my best. hopefully it won't be too painful of a payment
Shimano use a split pin on those bolts to stop them backing out. I would just buy a couple of bolts, you now know the right length and they are just a standard M5 thread, if you can't find the right length easily you can always go slightly longer and use a couple of washers.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
oh i didn't think of washers for situations like that, noted. ill get some things done to it today hopefully.

didnt end up going yet waiting for them to get in my downtube adjusters so they can do it all in one go

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Sep 8, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
In desperation once, I flat filed the tip of the bolt down and blunted the leading edge of the thread. And took extreme care in hand threading it in to start.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

kimbo305 posted:

In desperation once, I flat filed the tip of the bolt down and blunted the leading edge of the thread. And took extreme care in hand threading it in to start.

Protip: put a nut on the bolt before filing or cutting. When you screw it off, it will force the threads into shape.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Yeah, and if you forget, you can still thread it through the sacrificial nut to clean things up a bit.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

one of these guys can help recover threads that are totally hosed, best for axles where it isn’t the part under load but just preventing you from getting the nut to where it needs to be.

https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/general-tools-177-8-metric-thread-repair-file-75-10-125-15-175-20-25-30-mm-threads.html

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Why did no one ever bother to agree upon which orientation the tapered square hole in cranks should exist at?

Seems kinda silly.

Krogort
Oct 27, 2013
My ultegra discs are driving me mad, help please.
Somehow I have slightly bent my rotor and every now and then it rubs against a pad.
Sometime it stops and start again after a big descent.

I bought a park tool truing tool DT-2 and tried to true the disc, it stops for a while then come back eventualy.

Oddly enough, if I put the bike upside down, there is no rubbing ! as if the pad clear more or some other magic happens.


Any advice beside "get a new rotor" ?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Krogort posted:

My ultegra discs are driving me mad, help please.
Somehow I have slightly bent my rotor and every now and then it rubs against a pad.
Sometime it stops and start again after a big descent.

I bought a park tool truing tool DT-2 and tried to true the disc, it stops for a while then come back eventualy.

Oddly enough, if I put the bike upside down, there is no rubbing ! as if the pad clear more or some other magic happens.


Any advice beside "get a new rotor" ?

Get rim brakes, road disc's only point was a successful op to create value for the shareholders at Shimano and the carbon bike manufacturers

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Krogort posted:

My ultegra discs are driving me mad, help please.
Somehow I have slightly bent my rotor and every now and then it rubs against a pad.
Sometime it stops and start again after a big descent.

I bought a park tool truing tool DT-2 and tried to true the disc, it stops for a while then come back eventualy.

Oddly enough, if I put the bike upside down, there is no rubbing ! as if the pad clear more or some other magic happens.


Any advice beside "get a new rotor" ?

This just appears to be how it is with discs. I imagine tiny variations in the seating off the axle, flex in the wheel and normal clearance in the bearings are what does it.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Krogort posted:

Oddly enough, if I put the bike upside down, there is no rubbing ! as if the pad clear more or some other magic happens.

Yeah, that means the hub has enough play (not necessarily abnormal) and the wheel is crooked enough in the dropouts such that the rotor tilts over more into the pad. Rotors can distort under heat, which I assume explains the descent part.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

SimonSays posted:

Get rim brakes, road disc's only point was a successful op to create value for the shareholders at Shimano and the carbon bike manufacturers

:agreed:

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Anything that rubs if you ride it long enough it'll go away :shuckyes:

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Krogort posted:

My ultegra discs are driving me mad, help please.
Somehow I have slightly bent my rotor and every now and then it rubs against a pad.
Sometime it stops and start again after a big descent.

I bought a park tool truing tool DT-2 and tried to true the disc, it stops for a while then come back eventualy.

Oddly enough, if I put the bike upside down, there is no rubbing ! as if the pad clear more or some other magic happens.


Any advice beside "get a new rotor" ?

The rotors warp when they heat up. The expensive Shimano models with a layer of aluminium inside the steel are worse for this apparently, and are much more fragile generally.

Some have suggested using cheaper full steel rotors to avoid this, get better longevity and save money, at the cost of a few grams in weight.

Campagnolo ones are good.

Krogort
Oct 27, 2013
Yes those are two part rotor with a steel disc riveted on an aluminium chassis.
I don't have this problem on my commtuer bike with full cheap steel disc, neither did I have it on my gravel with fancy discs but GRX brakes that spread the pads more.

The wheel has to have some play that I can't feel, in any case this is very annoying !

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:
I need to get a new chain for my bike. It's about 10 years old and I just want to replace it. I went and looked and this looks like the chain that's on it, but I'm having a hard time finding this exact chain. Is there something comparable? I don't really know where or how to look for it.

I have a 41cm Jamis Ventura Comp 9 speed with shimano parts on it, if it makes any difference.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Shnooks posted:

I need to get a new chain for my bike. It's about 10 years old and I just want to replace it. I went and looked and this looks like the chain that's on it, but I'm having a hard time finding this exact chain. Is there something comparable? I don't really know where or how to look for it.

I have a 41cm Jamis Ventura Comp 9 speed with shimano parts on it, if it makes any difference.

Any nine speed chain is fine if you can't find a z9. You may need to change your cassette too at this point though, they tend to wear each other out. Unless you've been using the bike only two weekends a year this whole decade.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:

SimonSays posted:

Any nine speed chain is fine if you can't find a z9. You may need to change your cassette too at this point though, they tend to wear each other out. Unless you've been using the bike only two weekends a year this whole decade.

It's got a good amount of miles on it and then it kind of sat around for 5 years. I was thinking that I should probably change the cassette, too. I like the bike enough that I want it to last a while.

I know the z9 chain says its "super narrow", is that just a selling point or any 9 speed chain should work?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Shnooks posted:

It's got a good amount of miles on it and then it kind of sat around for 5 years. I was thinking that I should probably change the cassette, too. I like the bike enough that I want it to last a while.

I know the z9 chain says its "super narrow", is that just a selling point or any 9 speed chain should work?

It's super narrow compared to an 8-speed, not other nine speed chains. Nine speed all works together. You can even use a 10sp chain on your 9sp cassette if you feel like it.

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
My wife picked up a bike online and I put it together for her.


Everything went fine until I was getting the rear brakes set up. Shimano GRX Hydraulics for reference.


Getting rubbing on the caliper housing (not the pads it seems like). See the potato photo:


I've already tried to loosen the bolts, actuate the brakes, then tighten. As the bolts tighten the caliper gets pulled back to this position. Put the wheel on and off, rotor doesn't look warped or anything and it's a constant rubbing on that point.

I did take some sandpaper and took off some paint on the face of the mount and that didn't help any.

Thoughts? Do I need a shim? Do the mounts themselves need to be faced or something?


Edit: the axle is for a burley attachment. Still happens with the stock axle.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



If you loosen up the bolts, can you move the caliper into a position where there isn’t any rub? Sometimes you just have to get it lined up by eye and tighten up the bolt that way.

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
Yeah, I can but it doesn't sit flush with the mount. As you tighten the bolts it brings it like 1-2 degrees clockwise. That's why I'm wondering if it was something with the mount on the frame itself.


Would it be fine to shim with some thin rubber?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mr Newsman posted:

Yeah, I can but it doesn't sit flush with the mount. As you tighten the bolts it brings it like 1-2 degrees clockwise. That's why I'm wondering if it was something with the mount on the frame itself.


Would it be fine to shim with some thin rubber?

Flat mount frame bits need facing using an expensive tool, basically at a well-tooled-up shop. It's an added cost that conveniently gets invisibly passed onto you when buying an online bike.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Mr Newsman posted:

Yeah, I can but it doesn't sit flush with the mount. As you tighten the bolts it brings it like 1-2 degrees clockwise. That's why I'm wondering if it was something with the mount on the frame itself.
If, when the pads are retracted, the caliper body is so tilted over that the rotor is hitting the inside edge of of the caliper, then yeah, it probably is a problem when the mount shaping.

quote:

Would it be fine to shim with some thin rubber?
I don’t know if that would be an effective use of your time to tune the shim thickness until you got the caliper vertical. Moreover, the give in rubber might make the caliper flex under braking and make it pretty weak. Not ideal even in the rear.

I’d take a more telling picture and send it to the vendor for a possible replacement or at least coverage for a shop doing the facing (and possible extra washers to compensate list material).

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
Yeah, that was what I figured wrt to rubber and why I hadn't tried it yet.

I am planning on reaching out to the vendor today and then scheduling a refacing somewhere nearby.

Thanks everyone!


Edit: I did briefly entertain the thought of buying the tools to do it myself. Couldn't do enough mental gymnastics to justify that though.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Centering calipers is generally finicky and I have the best results just doing it by eye. Maybe you just need to like, hold the caliper better while you tighten the bolts? and alternate between them.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Doesn't help in the above issue, but my recent discovery was that centering calipers is best done with light to medium pressure on the brake lever vs hard. Tighten the bolts very lightly then switch back and forth between them to snug up tightly.

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
I'll give it another go but I definitely tried many different permutations of eyeballing, levers, and tightening strategies.

I did reach out to the vendor and they will file a warranty claim and reimburse the cost of facing, so that's good.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
loving crank bolts.

I’m going to have to drill this one out.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Sep 13, 2023

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Platystemon posted:

loving crank bolts.

I’m going to have to drill this one out.

Have you tried heating it with a torch and hitting it with a hammer(after penetrating oil ofc)

That's always my last resort before pulling out the drill ,

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Tried both. Used an impact wrench after the manual wrench cammed out a few times, but it just finished the rounding.

Drilling it out went smoothly enough, but I hosed up and bought a replacement of the same size at the local bike shop. It turns out that the new cranks need a longer one. Whoops.

The difference wasn’t severe enough for a dry fitting on the old spindle to catch, but it puts the chainline just barely too far inboard for the derailleur to function.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
The shop did a flat exchange on the parts even though I was upfront about fitting it to the bike. :evilbuddy:

Bike works great now. It shifts more smoothly than it ever did on the old rings, but I don’t know how much of that is new rings and how much is that I adjusted the derailleur properly instead of considering it “good enough” for the past however long.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Anyone have a favorite 130bcd single speed chainring, ideally around a 54t? The beefier the better.

Had a little incident where someone ran into me and my chainring is now bent pretty good. I got it into roughly the right shape to get home but it’s pretty obviously done.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply