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Dr. Red Ranger posted:So Death Guard got new debuffs attached to their Nurgle's Gift aura making it much nastier, but we didn't necessarily get any tougher if we aren't hitting anyone with the -1 WS/BS version. Am I dumb to just jam Rhinos with Plague Marines, Bloat Drones, and deep striking Blightlord/Deathshroud bricks at the enemy as fast and broadly as possible like a stinky World Eaters army with the Skullsquirm debuff? I haven't played much of 10th but it looks like I'm going to struggle with enemy tanks. I feel like 95% of the time you’ll want either -1ws/bs or -1 save but it’s going to take experimentation to figure out what one into what matchups. In either case getting into people’s faces seems like a good idea. Tanks do feel like they’ll be a problem for death guard but -1 sv might make it possible to chew through them and -1bs becomes -2 to hit if they’re tagged in combat so that should neutralise most vehicles.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:09
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I use super glue instead of plastic glue because it binds quickly and it’s sometimes convenient to just snap off an arm clean at the joint. Plus it’s multipurpose.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:16
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My list is basically that, and I'll be trrying it soon. Morty and 2 terminator bricks to push forward, a shooty War Dog to help open vehicles and clean chaff, 2 rhinos with plagues to take the midfield, 2 Crawlers to hold the back and put pressure on objectives before they get assaulted, and a bloat drone to zoom around where that little bit of extra pressure is needed.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:16
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Edgar Allen Ho posted:I use super glue instead of plastic glue because it binds quickly and it’s sometimes convenient to just snap off an arm clean at the joint. Plus it’s multipurpose. These days I use plastic glue for bodies and superglue for arms and heads. Considering I also paint them in parts I can't really use plastic on primed and painted pieces either way.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:30
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Cooked Auto posted:These days I use plastic glue for bodies and superglue for arms and heads. For arm and bodies with flat spaces I would hand drill out a dimple on each side and put a small dollop of plastic glue in.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:47
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Guys... i did it... i accomplished the impossible... i have scaled a mountain no other warhammer player has scaled before... I have included a new member to my warhammer group...Next weekend... i will be teaching warhammer 40,000 combat patrol... .. to a GIRL
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Sep 16, 2023 17:56
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Al-Saqr posted:Guys... i did it... i accomplished the impossible... i have scaled a mountain no other warhammer player has scaled before... I know you're from the Middle East but women are allowed to like things and go to game stores now (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 16, 2023 17:59
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Crab Dad posted:For arm and bodies with flat spaces I would hand drill out a dimple on each side and put a small dollop of plastic glue in. Hm, good to know if I'm having assembly issues.
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Sep 16, 2023 18:12
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Spanish Manlove posted:I know you're from the Middle East but women are allowed to like things and go to game stores now Im making a joke about nerds and stuff
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Sep 16, 2023 18:13
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Cooked Auto posted:Hm, good to know if I'm having assembly issues. Yeah it’s nice because it removes the paint in a very controlled manner as opposed to scraping with a blade or sand paper.
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Sep 16, 2023 18:25
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So taking a deeper look at the Tyranid codex and I think it brings bad portents for the future of 10th edition. The codex is mostly copy and paste from the previous codex, including the cover art, which is sure to be confusing to new players. GW just removed the Tyranid datasheets from Warhammer Community, so now there is no free access whatsoever to any Tyranid rules with the exception of combat patrol list and rules. The majority of the data sheet cards you could buy at purchase are invalidated, but they have been nice enough to release new ones, but for 15 dollars more than the previous release. The complaints in 9th edition about too many Stratagems is going to come up again because it looks like each codex is going to have 6 detachments with 6 stratagems, which mean over 950 total stratagems in the game by the time the final codex is released. Unfortunately you cannot read up on your opponents stratagems ahead of time because as the codex gets released the free rules are pulled. So the goal of 10th edition to have free rules and limited stratagems and complexity to make it accessible is just a little bit bullshit. Looks like we are just going to end up with 9th edition except no wargear options, which was not the area of unnecessary bloat and complexity that were driving the complaints. I would recommend everyone download all the free pdfs from Warhammer Community while you can still get them, even though they will be slightly outdated when the codex releases, it can at least give you an idea of what you are playing against. In good news Wahapedia is rolling out 10th edition content, so we will still have free rules, luckily.
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Sep 16, 2023 19:35
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Geisladisk posted:Yeah speed paints are extremely useful as heavy washes or as glazes even if you have no interest in using them as advertised. They're amazing filters run through an airbrush as well. Underspray of Garaghak Sewer ftw.
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Sep 16, 2023 19:42
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 my first squad built  I honestly can't wait to get to painting, though man it's gonna take some practice because the details are so tiny, you don't appreciate it until you hold them in your hands I think. That's roughly half the combat patrol, so I'm thinking I can probably finish the other half tomorrow. I've got some more stuff up to 1k afterwards, so my goal is to try and get stuff built over the next week to try it out next Saturday at a super casual freeplay thing (I've seen people play unpainted stuff, and even just like, placeholders so it should be fine). After that it's time to prime and start the fun part of painting everything, though building things has been fun too (the little tiny "second arms" that hold the gun up front are awful though, I feel like I can't get them to look right) One weird thing that happened though is some of the unit halves didn't quite fit right. Like there's a gap along a few parts of the model itself. I'm not sure if it's something I did wrong or just general manufacturing tolerance stuff? Is there a good way for me to fix that before painting? Otherwise I'm gonna have to like layer paint or something so that they don't show.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:05
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Weird Pumpkin posted:
Congrats! Can you take a picture showing some of these gaps you are talking about? Don't try and fill gaps with paint, if you want to try and fill gaps you want green stuff and/or milliput, of which there are multiple techniques for depending on gap size. You can sometimes also fill/erase a gap just by using tamiya extra thin and brushing back and forth over the gap.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:27
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tangy yet delightful posted:Congrats! Can you take a picture showing some of these gaps you are talking about? Yeah sure:   They mostly look fine, but for some reason some of the shoulder pads didn't quite line up. There was some other places further down the model that looked a little weird, but a lot of those actually seem a little better when I went up and checked on them after curing a bit longer. I tested the fit and was pretty careful about holding them. The first model I built was the cannonness and I didn't use quite enough glue on the shoulder pads (just a few little dots), so there's a tiny bit of a visible seam there but that's probably pretty easily fixable I wager.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:36
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Your first picture has been uploaded in 10mm scale I think  Looking at it best I can, plus the second picture, that appears to be clipping/assembly error. Possibly GW underfilled on the casting but I doubt it. It looks like you also have some sprue on the top of your boltgun in the second picture. When you clip the pieces from the sprue are you then cleaning up those clipped connections with the Mold Line Remover Tool TM? Or your hobby knife (don't cut yourself - says that guy who has cut himself many times) - cut on a cutting mat, scrape but away from your body I use the front or backside of the knife depending. My assumption, not having assembled those exact models, is that you had a bit of extra material after clipping which didn't let the parts fully come together. That is a fairly big gap in the second picture, will probably need greenstuff work to fill it in and create a new strip of shoulder pad essentially. Do you have anyone local that you might be able to get some sculpting tips from? Otherwise we can hit you with youtubes and whatnot for tutorials.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:45
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tangy yet delightful posted:Your first picture has been uploaded in 10mm scale I think Definitely might be the case, I'll have to check  . I tried to file down some of the sprues, but couldn't find a knife to cut it so I'll have to revisit it to clean up before paintingsorry about the weird scaling on that picture! I must've copied the thumbnail somehow from the upload It's probably going to just end up looking weird, but I'll ask around and see if someone can give me tips to get the gap filled at least! All a learning process. Fwiw as well the rest of them look pretty decent for a first try, I picked the ones that got messed up as an example lol
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Sep 16, 2023 20:50
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Razor blades can also work for cleaning up some the sprue attachment areas, just have to be pretty careful in the application.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:52
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Weird Pumpkin posted:Definitely might be the case, I'll have to check Oh and I should say that for a first run you did quite well. At this point I have probably 7-8? years of model building experience and just 6 months back I ended up with a 1/8" gap on a Kruleboyz shoulderpad because I hosed up during assembly. Keep at it!
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Sep 16, 2023 21:00
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tangy yet delightful posted:Oh and I should say that for a first run you did quite well. At this point I have probably 7-8? years of model building experience and just 6 months back I ended up with a 1/8" gap on a Kruleboyz shoulderpad because I hosed up during assembly. Keep at it! It's definitely tricky! When I'm assembling the next set I'm going to take a picture if there's a weird fitting and see if I can figure out what's going on
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Sep 16, 2023 22:00
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If you don't have one already, an Xacto Knife is an invaluable multitasker for hobbying, great for cleaning mold lines, shaving down back connection points, or cleaning sprue join bits. I also really like the Citadel Mold Line Cleaner, which is completely unnecessary but also I will never be without one.
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Sep 16, 2023 22:36
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Got my first Necrons painted thanks for the tips goons! Family bought me the paint set and the other set where you get three Necron warriors. I went with black primer then lead belcher. I thought mccrag blue would be fine but I really didn't care for it. Also my Necron crystal sucked cuz I didn't have a pen knife.  2nd time around I bought a pen knife and turquoise paint, got the crystals better and dropped the blinged-out gun casing. Tried out a bass rim on the bottom but hated it!  Picked up some striking scorpion green and dropped the green glow on the bayonette and got turquoise on the base hated that more. Decided I needed a new shade of blue.  And I've landed on my scheme for my army! 1. Black primer over astrogranite base 2. Leadbelcher 3. Argax earthshade wash 4. Dry brush rune fang silver 5.white on stuff that needs to be green (eyes, cables, blades) 6. striking scorpion green on the white parts 7. Base: bugman's glow brown, then drybrush mephiston red, then drybrush averland sunset yellow 8. weird 3rd party blue on the shoulder pads and retributior gold on the face and extremities. 9. Argax on the gold and blue 9. gold stripe on the blue bits, edge with turquoise. 11. Striking scorpion, then tessaract glow on the green bits again 12. tufts! 13. Brass rim is actually great cuz it makes the gold pop better!  Thanks everyone. I need to go buy more necrons!
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Sep 16, 2023 23:06
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rantmo posted:If you don't have one already, an Xacto Knife is an invaluable multitasker for hobbying, great for cleaning mold lines, shaving down back connection points, or cleaning sprue join bits. I also really like the Citadel Mold Line Cleaner, which is completely unnecessary but also I will never be without one. A good quality boxcutter with a metal body (Olfa) is a good alternative to an Xacto if you want something that feels a bit more sturdy - especially useful if you ever get into cutting up bigger pieces of plastic.. I've also heard of people using Stanley knives as well but those feel a bit too brutal.
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Sep 16, 2023 23:36
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I have an X-Acto knife and a Tamiya hobby knife and they work functionally about the same, which is very well. Buy a bunch of blades (#12 I think?); they dull out quicker than you'd think (or at least they do for me) just because you end up getting paint or glue on them. I also recommend Tamiya Plastic Cement, but also Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is the same solution but you can buy more of it more cheaply. So just grab a thing of Plastic Cement and then use the Cleaner to refill it. Also if you have any push-fit models, make sure to cut the little bars diagonally so there's an easier fit. Toothpicks and little pointed q-tips are also pretty handy for different small tasks, like holding something in place or getting rid of a tiny bit of paint.
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Sep 16, 2023 23:47
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Tamiya Extra Thin is loving magical but I would also keep Loctite Gel on hand for times when I am not 100% certain about gluing pieces together because once you get Tamiya on, that's the game for that plastic. Tamiya's also not as good, in my experience, for things like gluing feet to bases or other things where you want a glue with a little more body. The right tool for the right job and all that.
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Sep 17, 2023 00:02
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On push together models I found that snipping the peg by half would really help the models snap together completely without gaps so I’d give that shot.
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Sep 17, 2023 00:32
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Oh yeah superglue is way better for attaching feet to bases, I agree, if only because with superglue models tend to break off bases instead of ripping off if and when you drop them. Superglue is also handier for customs or for when a piece is especially heavy or awkward, like a lance or something.
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Sep 17, 2023 01:04
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I have a box cutter out in my toolbox, I'll grab it tomorrow and give it a go against the remaining sprues
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Sep 17, 2023 01:25
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BBQ Dave posted:Got my first Necrons painted thanks for the tips goons! Family bought me the paint set and the other set where you get three Necron warriors. Those look great!
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Sep 17, 2023 03:11
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Weird Pumpkin posted:Yeah sure: Having recently assembled about 20 of these for a friend, they have a tendency to gap across the pauldrons unfortunately. If the legs aren't perfectly positioned, it can throw the whole thing off. I keep a bottle of Vallejo plastic putty on hand for gaps (better than green stuff for most gaps, in my opinion) and also a jar of "sprue glue", which is where you dissolve sprue plastic in a half full jar of Tamiya cement until it's a little thick. Makes a great gap filling glue.
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Sep 17, 2023 05:26
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https://www.eurogamer.net/how-pokemons-arrival-in-the-uk-changed-games-workshop-forever Here's an interesting read that just dropped about how Pokemon in the UK had an effect on GW. quote:Still, though, Prentice faced division from within. There remained those among the Games Workshop higher-ups who believed a younger audience really was the way to go. "We certainly had one strong faction that would have argued that reducing the age profile was an entirely good thing," Prentice says, "capturing them earlier, keeping them longer, producing Junior Warhammer, let's call it - an easy clip-together version with different colour armies playable right from the box. Rather than the more complicated building models, painting... The more sophisticated hobby. And that was a tension that was in the business certainly the whole time I was there." So we got spared a more kid focused GW, although I wonder where this lies in the general timeline of things.
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Sep 17, 2023 10:13
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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.eurogamer.net/how-pokemons-arrival-in-the-uk-changed-games-workshop-forever Probably around the time they released the colored plastic kits and the Warhammer Fantasy children's books.
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Sep 17, 2023 10:36
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The kids books are post-Kirby era though. That whole thing happened during the Kirby era in the early 00's when Pokemon first came to the UK.
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Sep 17, 2023 10:55
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Pokemon arrived in 1999, during 3rd edition. The kids books were in 2018.
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Sep 17, 2023 11:44
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Cato Sicarius I choose you!
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Sep 17, 2023 11:47
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Another tip for cheap plastic cement - you can buy MEK/butanone/methylethylketone from chemical suppliers for a fraction of the price of Tamiya extra thin and their airbrush cleaner and its the actual "hot" ingredient in the glue that does the melting. If you find yourself getting into the hobby a big way buying the solvent by the litre is much more cost effective. Tamiya Extra Thin 40ml £4.75 Tamiya Airbrush Thinner 250ml £10.75 Methylethylketone 1000ml - £12.00 Most solvent glues are some combination of methylethylketone + acetone to make it easier to handle but I've found plain MEK to be excellent. Particularly when I use to melt mold lines and have to use lots of it. I do keep some Mr Cement SP and Tamiya Extra thin on standby for special occasions.
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Sep 17, 2023 12:22
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40ml of Tamiya Extra Thin honestly goes a long way. A bottle lasts me more than a year of moderate to heavy hobbying easy. I think its great the info is out there but I do worry new hobbyists are getting scared into buying litres of MEK straight away. I've also never been able to find the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner in stock in the UK without having to import it. I have been converted to acrylic floor polish as a gloss varnish though.
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Sep 17, 2023 13:03
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Had an extremely fun 1,500 points crusade game last night, my Grey Knights vs. Chaos Knights again. I finally got the hang of scoring via teleporting bullshit, finally learned to ignore the big knights, and had a solid points lead for the first 3 turns. Turn 4-5 I got tabled, but could have still won were it not for bad luck on the mission rolls. Empty the Vaults, the first 2 objectives to disappear at random were the ones near my deployment zone. Welp! Close even so. BUT: holy poo poo, crusade upgrades on big knights are dumb. Might be mangling the specifics, but his Knight Tyrant had something like: +1 damage and +2(?!) AP on Darkflame Cannon, +1 attack +precision on crit on its Warpshock harpoon, and some other horrifying re-roll or battleshock related things. Napkin math tells me it went from ~2 expected TEQ kills per turn to 5+, changing it from "hurts a bit" to "RIP a character and/or terminator squad each turn." Also that no deepstrike within 12" aura... Basically a hundred foot tall unkillable "gently caress You" to my army specifically chilling on the center objective. Really fun to play against a centerpiece that scary, but uh, maybe I'll try a non-crusade match next  Aaaand now half my drat army has Deep Scars (auto-wounded on critical hits) in the crusade. Lol. Lmao.
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Sep 17, 2023 13:08
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I was putting together all my Gants and Gaunts from the Leviathan box and they're so cute and full of character I want to run a horde army now Someone stop me from making a terrible mistake
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Sep 17, 2023 13:10
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Cooked Auto posted:So we got spared a more kid focused GW, although I wonder where this lies in the general timeline of things. I imagine that the Assault on Black Reach period was dipping a toe into this. There were a bunch of associated easy-build kits in kid-friendly packaging, and the rules started leaning on symbols. IIRC there was also a display standee, with the starter box and some easy-builds. Which they planned to put into seemingly random US stores like Ace Hardware. They were definitely trying to branch out, but it was unclear as to where. Eej posted:
You can stop yourself by painting 20 of them at once!
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Sep 17, 2023 13:16
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