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Panzeh
Nov 27, 2006

"..The high ground"
I have some primed urbanmechs, some paint, and i am going to post my first timer paint jobs sometime.

I figure if i mess them up, they're trash cans anyway.

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Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Cease to Hope posted:

or ever. this is not calling out NDB, i just do not want anyone to innovate new goony ways of causing yourself brain damage. cadmium or cobalt or any other traditional toxic pigment does not go in the airbrush. azo dyes are fine, you do not care about your colors fading in 2063. this is never a thing you need to worry about with craft paints or hobby paints that are not 20 years old though

Not true. There are a couple of Vallejo paints with little "DO NOT AIRBRUSH" logos on the bottle.



I have no idea what pigment they've put into Vallejo Panzer Aces 70.305 Light Rubber (because hobby paints don't have to do material safety disclosure sheets for some reason) but I assume that warning isn't there for shits and giggles. It's not the only bottle I have with it, either.

Stephenls fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Sep 17, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Stephenls posted:

Not true. There are a couple of Vallejo paints with little "DO NOT AIRBRUSH" logos on the bottle.


would you believe the old vallejo hobby paints were exactly the ones i was thinking of when i said "as long as they're not really old"

but yeah don't airbrush with those if they have that warning

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Apparently the answer is cadmium, to comply with California Proposition 65 regarding heavy metal content of various things.

The Air ranges are apparently free of anything that isn't the usual plastic particles and medium.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Please watch this YouTube video to see the most egregious misuse of an airbrush. You will look at the title and say, "Is this for real?" and the answer is yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OziH3Y2ySNo&t=773s

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Please watch this YouTube video to see the most egregious misuse of an airbrush. You will look at the title and say, "Is this for real?" and the answer is yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OziH3Y2ySNo&t=773s

I feel like the comments on that video used to be enabled. In fact I think I remember watching it when it was first released and seeing the horrified reaction.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Please watch this YouTube video to see the most egregious misuse of an airbrush. You will look at the title and say, "Is this for real?" and the answer is yes.

Cease to Hope posted:

please do not innovate new goony ways of causing yourself brain damage

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Please watch this YouTube video to see the most egregious misuse of an airbrush. You will look at the title and say, "Is this for real?" and the answer is yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OziH3Y2ySNo&t=773s

I can’t even see the embed because I’m on satellite internet in the middle of the ocean, but I already know in my heart that this is the video of the guy advocating airbrushing uv printer resin with zero protection.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

Springfield Fatts posted:

Finished a Leto II as a gift for a friend.



This is so yonic, I never realised the original illustration made him a fat hog with a clit at the top.

Also nice work!

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Stephenls posted:

Not true. There are a couple of Vallejo paints with little "DO NOT AIRBRUSH" logos on the bottle.



I have no idea what pigment they've put into Vallejo Panzer Aces 70.305 Light Rubber (because hobby paints don't have to do material safety disclosure sheets for some reason) but I assume that warning isn't there for shits and giggles. It's not the only bottle I have with it, either.

welp better check on my vallejo paints.

I picked up some of the Golden So Flats in their brief period of hype and sharpied don't spray on all the ones with toxic metals.

It's a lot more prevalent in artists paints.

Ironically airbrushing helps mitigate a lot of the reasons why heavy metal paints are used so there really is no reason to use them at all in that way.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

If I have one of those pop-up booths with an extractor fan and a conduit leading outside, is it reasonable to expect I won’t have any dust in the room? I am thinking of moving my airbrush set up from my garage to my workshop, but the workshop has a bunch of stuff I’d rather not get covered in paint dust.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Southern Heel posted:

If I have one of those pop-up booths with an extractor fan and a conduit leading outside, is it reasonable to expect I won’t have any dust in the room? I am thinking of moving my airbrush set up from my garage to my workshop, but the workshop has a bunch of stuff I’d rather not get covered in paint dust.

No. There will still potentially be some because of backwash. Maybe if you had a large high pressure fan vs the small tinny ones usually in airbrush hoods

Panzeh
Nov 27, 2006

"..The high ground"
Trip report from painting my first urbanmech using army painter speedpaints over a colored primer:

works great for little details, fast, not good for large scale colors, but this is my first time painting seriously so idk, going to try this 'wash' technique.

Should get me at a level where i'm not embarrassing anyone by putting these on a table and having a picture taken though.

Psyber Spine
Jan 18, 2019

I recently started working full time and my old work buddies got a bunch of Battletech goodies as a leaving present for me. I don't have a lot of time for painting these days so I've been experimenting with the slapchop technique to do the bulk of the work and then adding some little details.
I'm not really sure the effect is much different or even as good as painting a mid colour and doing a dark wash but I've enjoyed doing some colouring in anyway.
When they're all done I need to give them a varnish and add some gloss to the canopies.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Psyber Spine posted:

I recently started working full time and my old work buddies got a bunch of Battletech goodies as a leaving present for me. I don't have a lot of time for painting these days so I've been experimenting with the slapchop technique to do the bulk of the work and then adding some little details.
I'm not really sure the effect is much different or even as good as painting a mid colour and doing a dark wash but I've enjoyed doing some colouring in anyway.
When they're all done I need to give them a varnish and add some gloss to the canopies.



looking good. The small details really pull everything together. The green looks really good, love those mechs.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Just absolutely did not feel up to painting a space wolf, so much so that I didn't touch a brush for months, but I finally did it, thanks to a cult of paint video on speedpainting space wolves coming up in my YT feed



I was rusty and pretty sloppy, but considering that I pulled this guy together in a third of the time that the rest of my marines took, I'm pretty happy with the results.

Got a new phone since I last took pictures, so I messed around a bit with both camera settings and lights, and grabbed a group shot and new pinups for everyone





Now that I've painted up all the loyalists, I should probably decide on an actual colour scheme for the rest of my marine models. Very tempted to do ravenguard for the tacticool looks, but painting green and blue is just more fun

Panzeh
Nov 27, 2006

"..The high ground"
First stab at a wash was mixing in the speedpaint black and some medium but i think i didnt put enough medium in because it dried a little 'lumpy' in spots. Next try i'll probably use a proper wash paint, also getting a conventional white acrylic paint for dry brushing.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Panzeh posted:

First stab at a wash was mixing in the speedpaint black and some medium but i think i didnt put enough medium in because it dried a little 'lumpy' in spots. Next try i'll probably use a proper wash paint, also getting a conventional white acrylic paint for dry brushing.

i use golden acrylics heavy body neutral grey n8 for my drybrushing and i love it, surprisngly not chalky for a white paint.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Started playing Mice & Mystics with my kid and she's absolutely enthralled so I guess I'm painting cute adventure mice now

The models are... passable quality, but cute with a ton of character

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Really pleased with this, although my army may end up looking pretty inconsistent from all the adjustments I've made to my method, but this is also faster. Rather than using Skeleton Horde contrast over a white base this is a mix of grey and sepia shades. Also got a bit better at applying contrast to the pauldrons.



Does the gold trim look okay?

hoiyes
May 17, 2007
The gold looks great, what color is that? It really pops on the white armour.

Douche Phoenix
Oct 25, 2014
It took forever and I'm still not quite happy with the highlights, but another space dwarf is in the books.


That just leaves checks notes a horde of boys and tonka trucks.:scrunt:

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

hoiyes posted:

The gold looks great, what color is that? It really pops on the white armour.

Nazdreg Yellow contrast, NMM in a pot.

hoiyes
May 17, 2007
Nice. I like metallic gold on darker colours but against pale armour, that seems much better.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I've been muddling by with Vallejo Game Colour washes and I just don't like them. The density of pigmentation is bad and they have a high surface tension. I'm sure this wouldn't be an issue on larger figures but since I'm painting 10mm figures, it's a right pig.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't get Coat D'Arms Inks (Chesnut, Brown, Black, etc.)? I had considered GW Washes (Agrax, Nuln, Seraphim) but I don't want any random formula changes and they don't fit in my paint cases. I understand that the GW Washes can be applied neat and dry super-matte, while the CDA Inks need a little dilution and can try more satin.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Southern Heel posted:

I've been muddling by with Vallejo Game Colour washes and I just don't like them. The density of pigmentation is bad and they have a high surface tension. I'm sure this wouldn't be an issue on larger figures but since I'm painting 10mm figures, it's a right pig.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't get Coat D'Arms Inks (Chesnut, Brown, Black, etc.)? I had considered GW Washes (Agrax, Nuln, Seraphim) but I don't want any random formula changes and they don't fit in my paint cases. I understand that the GW Washes can be applied neat and dry super-matte, while the CDA Inks need a little dilution and can try more satin.

A large percentage of my paints are Coat D'Arms (I like the 90s GW style pots, plus for the longest time they were most of what my FLGS sold) but I only have a couple of their washes ("Ink Wash Armour" and "Super Wash Black") and I like them, with the caveat that they are ink washes and behave a little differently from a regular wash. (as you say, they can take a little thinning, and the flow just "feels" different when applying it). If you let it pool then it will dry hella dark in those spots, so be a bit careful. Also with a gun to my head I'm not sure I can tell the difference between the armour wash (its black) and the super black wash (also black) so probably dont buy both.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

SiKboy posted:

A large percentage of my paints are Coat D'Arms (I like the 90s GW style pots, plus for the longest time they were most of what my FLGS sold) but I only have a couple of their washes ("Ink Wash Armour" and "Super Wash Black") and I like them, with the caveat that they are ink washes and behave a little differently from a regular wash. (as you say, they can take a little thinning, and the flow just "feels" different when applying it). If you let it pool then it will dry hella dark in those spots, so be a bit careful. Also with a gun to my head I'm not sure I can tell the difference between the armour wash (its black) and the super black wash (also black) so probably dont buy both.

My understanding is that the 'Super Washes' are formulated like the current GW wash range (i.e. no dilution). I think Armour Wash has blue in it, while Black wash is derived from brown/green pigments ultimately?

I'm not so fussed about there being sharp contrasts, almost nothing I'm painting these days has surface area big enough to need a gradient. I think I'm going to take the plunge and just see where it gets me - after all, if the inks were good enough for us from '88 to whenever GW switched to their in-house style they can't be all bad!

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Southern Heel posted:

My understanding is that the 'Super Washes' are formulated like the current GW wash range (i.e. no dilution). I think Armour Wash has blue in it, while Black wash is derived from brown/green pigments ultimately?

I'm not so fussed about there being sharp contrasts, almost nothing I'm painting these days has surface area big enough to need a gradient. I think I'm going to take the plunge and just see where it gets me - after all, if the inks were good enough for us from '88 to whenever GW switched to their in-house style they can't be all bad!

Yeah, absolutely pick up a pot and see how you like it, end of the day its just a paint and even if you dont love it you'll find a use for it somewhere.

Roller Coast Guard
Aug 27, 2006

With this magnificent aircraft,
and my magnificent facial hair,
the British Empire will never fall!


Paint stripping question: I've dunked some miniatures in Dettol and brushed off the bulk of the old paint, now they have dried off they've been left with a bit of paint in the recesses which is fine, but they've also come out a little bit glossy (which isn't really showing up on this picture, but here you go anyway).



Are they going to be safe to paint over now, or is the slightly glossy surface a sign that I still need to dunk them for a bit longer or scrub a bit harder? I'm wary of painting over a surface that still has traces of paint stripper on it but if it's just how they are supposed to look like whatever is left on the surface has dried then I'll get the primer out.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Roller Coast Guard posted:

Paint stripping question: I've dunked some miniatures in Dettol and brushed off the bulk of the old paint, now they have dried off they've been left with a bit of paint in the recesses which is fine, but they've also come out a little bit glossy (which isn't really showing up on this picture, but here you go anyway).



Are they going to be safe to paint over now, or is the slightly glossy surface a sign that I still need to dunk them for a bit longer or scrub a bit harder? I'm wary of painting over a surface that still has traces of paint stripper on it but if it's just how they are supposed to look like whatever is left on the surface has dried then I'll get the primer out.

Scrub them with soapy water and a toothbrush, let them dry, and they are still glossy, matte varnish them before painting.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Lumpy posted:

Scrub them with soapy water and a toothbrush, let them dry, and they are still glossy, matte varnish them before painting.

I never would have thought to matte varnish it, I do a lot of stripping on vostroyan rescues and have run into that. Thanks!

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I've got some old metal minis I need to strip. I've had some soaking in Simple Green for two days and it's done a little but not much. I'm trying 99% Isopropyl Alcohol next. If that doesn't do it, what's my next steps? To complicate things, I don't actually know if these were painted with acrylics. I think they were, since they don't have that shiny finish you get with enamels, but I can't be positive.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!

Funzo posted:

I've got some old metal minis I need to strip. I've had some soaking in Simple Green for two days and it's done a little but not much. I'm trying 99% Isopropyl Alcohol next. If that doesn't do it, what's my next steps? To complicate things, I don't actually know if these were painted with acrylics. I think they were, since they don't have that shiny finish you get with enamels, but I can't be positive.

If it's acrylic paint, soaking in IPA should loosen it up enough to scrub most of it off. I've had minis that were soaked in Simple Green, Purple Power, etc., that barely had any paint budge, and then a soak in IPA basically took the paint almost completely off. Just remember you may have to scrub and then re-soak the mini a couple of times in IPA to get all the paint loosened up.

E: missed the part about the minis being metal ones! :v: You can also use acetone or Pine Sol (if it's available where you live) to strip the paint off them without damaging the minis. Metal minis can stand up to much harsher chemicals than plastic or resin ones (just make sure you take the proper safety/disposal precautions, depending on what you use).

Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Sep 18, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Roller Coast Guard posted:

Paint stripping question: I've dunked some miniatures in Dettol and brushed off the bulk of the old paint, now they have dried off they've been left with a bit of paint in the recesses which is fine, but they've also come out a little bit glossy (which isn't really showing up on this picture, but here you go anyway).

use isopropyl and a soft brush if you want the rest off

it's always good to wash with soap and water if you're worried about any residue but the odds are they're glossy because whatever you were doing to get the paint off also polished them

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I finished a model, had it glossed varnished to protect it while I assembled it and ended up dumping a huge glob of superglue all over its shoulders :negative:
It immediately crusted and crystallised.

I've it fully stripped, all the glue off and it's got all the base colours on again now, so it's not a total loss. But man I had to get up from my desk and take a little walk after that

E: forgot I took a photo of it. I think I'd done a real good job on her too!

Shoehead fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Sep 18, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Alright some WIPs with some test colors that came in

Example of left with Celestra Grey over black primer, and right is same black primer with grey drybrush as before, with bold titanium white on top of that, so you can see the difference the white adds


To clarify, the above minis looked IDENTICAL before adding color, i merely was showing what white adds (then added white to the left one)

Then, tried two sets of colors:


Left and right respectively:


Anyways, it's clear from this test that, the Speedpaint colors for these two (was trying to get as close as the two ranges can do, I didn't test other colors because Citadel doesn't really provide an adequate blue or pink, Talassar Blue or Frostheart maybe, but there's no adequate pink) was perfectly the color I wanted. Looking again at https://taleofpainters.com/2023/06/top-tip-visual-comparison-of-all-61-contrast-23-speedpaints-24-gsw-dipping-inks/ it looks like maybe instead I should have picked up "Mystic Blue" instead of "Caribbean Turquoise", but that is too close to "Magic Blue" I already have.

Anyways my complaint here with the speedpaints, is that, they are very very light, and even more transparent than usual. Unfortunately, something is up with the "Pastel Indigo" because it is entirely too wet, whereas I don't have this problem at all with Princess Pink. I hit these with the vortex mixer so it may just be how Pastel Indigo works. Because of that, this blue might be a pain to use for detail work.

Vallejo's Cardinal Purple and Caribbean Turquoise as you can see has fantastic coverage....it just isn't the colors I wanted.

The skeleton itself is using Skeleton Horde, and the Skull is using Pallid Bone (I think the right mini's floating skeleton was still a bit wet when i took the photo) because I wanted to more directly compare which one I wanted to use for exposed weathered bone, and honestly it's a hard sell. Either look good.

Of course I haven't finished with the model, these were test sacrifices, but I'm tempted to paint with the vallejo blue but use the princess pink, at least for the midtone

edit: the Cardinal Purple by Vallejo is arguably actually "Dark Fuchsia", there's more red than there is blue for me to quantify it as a purple. The Caribbean Turquoise certainly seems on brand, though. That's just me being pedantic tho

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Sep 19, 2023

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Hello...there?



Blending without my wet palette is more difficult. :smoobles:

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Have you tried wet blending? It's scary to think about at first but it's so freeing and fun once you actually give it a shot.

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Spanish Manlove posted:

Have you tried wet blending? It's scary to think about at first but it's so freeing and fun once you actually give it a shot.

Yes, that's what I mean when I say it's more difficult when I don't use my wet palette. The available paint dries quicker and I have to adjust it more often and the resulting paint can leave rings. There's two different pink/purples in there. So the result can be more like layering but I'm fine with it

Also part of me getting back into things is experimenting and remembering the thicknesses and paint properties I used to work with. The difficult thing is I never took notes, some brands or specific colors are easier to blend with than others

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I struggle with wet blending. Either it dries before I can figure out how to manipulate it, or I get it too wet and ruin all the work I just put into it

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