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Any opinions about the best truing stand for professional use? The park tool whatever is the baseline.
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Sep 22, 2023 17:59
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 19:35 |
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Same question for home use, any good park knockoffs?
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Sep 22, 2023 18:09
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I bought the $12 Wheelbuilding book by Roger Musson and made his version of a truing stand out of wood. Actually quite sturdy, but definitely nothing fancy. I 3D printed the 'jaws' at the local libary. Speaking of: I'm super proud of my first wheel build. I had some issues with a basic 26" wheel that I got used for my wife's bike. First, it broke a spoke with normal riding. Then, after I had a shop replace the spoke, I noticed the dish of the wheel was way off, so I attempted to fix it by tightening up one side of the wheel to pull it back over. Boom, yet another spoke popped and the rim was now wavy. I ended up finding a NOS XT hub and got some basic Sapim 2mm spokes and DT brass nipples. I was super worried about my spoke length, so I measured the hub like 4 times and checked ERD by hand before ordering my spokes (even though I found this rim's ERD listed in a database). I stupidly rounded down on spoke length which was one of my primary 'lessons' in this first build. The other lesson was to get the spokes on the correct side when lacing.  Would recommend - way more fun than DIY suspension servicing. I've decided that I'll only do 50 hour services. Bleeding a damper wasn't fun and I'm not sure I got it fully bled...
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Sep 23, 2023 01:58
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Havana Affair posted:Any opinions about the best truing stand for professional use? The park tool whatever is the baseline. The new one that abbey is making looks sweet
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Sep 23, 2023 02:59
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I've built three sets of wheels just using the bike to hold them and a homemade wooden thing for dishing. I might get a truing stand for home use at some point though because it's a bit of a pain to do it this way, especially if you don't want to take fenders off and on
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Sep 23, 2023 08:26
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Havana Affair posted:Any opinions about the best truing stand for professional use? The park tool whatever is the baseline. For professional use the main difference is you're looking for things that speed you up. The simultaneous x/y runout gages on a P&K Lie, the no-adapter-necessary thru-axle solution on the Abbey, etc. I don't know anyone who has gotten their mitts on the Abbey so hard to say how good it really is.
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Sep 23, 2023 21:31
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first time with a tubeless setup and my rear tire has a slow leak I have a plug kit, would it be reasonable to find the leak and plug it and keep riding on it or should I just be replacing the tire or looking for something else?
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Sep 23, 2023 23:34
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How slow are we talking?
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Sep 23, 2023 23:44
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from 40psi to 20psi in 2-3 days it seems to level out at 20
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Sep 24, 2023 00:01
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If you can find the leak, sure, plug it, but IME you often won't be able to find a puncture with tubeless. The first thing I try with a slow leak (days not hours) is to top off the sealant if it seems low then go for a 20-30 mile ride, which usually fixes it
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Sep 24, 2023 00:06
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Is there even a point in going tubeless? The only benefit I see people calling out is running at a lower psi. It feels like the fat tire bike trend all over again
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Sep 24, 2023 00:26
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Sentient Data posted:Is there even a point in going tubeless? The only benefit I see people calling out is running at a lower psi. It feels like the fat tire bike trend all over again Yes, no pinch flats and small punctures seal themselves before you even know they happened.
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Sep 24, 2023 00:30
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Sentient Data posted:Is there even a point in going tubeless? The only benefit I see people calling out is running at a lower psi. It feels like the fat tire bike trend all over again Thisisbait dot gif
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Sep 24, 2023 00:36
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Sentient Data posted:Is there even a point in going tubeless? The only benefit I see people calling out is running at a lower psi. It feels like the fat tire bike trend all over again No it sucks. Stick to slime-filled, thorn-resistant tubes. Definitely no benefit to almost never flatting and finding 3-4 pieces of radial wire or broken off staples in a worn-out tire.
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Sep 24, 2023 00:41
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SimonSays posted:Thisisbait dot gif I do it for the lower rolling resistance. 
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Sep 24, 2023 00:42
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The Fool posted:from 40psi to 20psi in 2-3 days 20psi over two days should at least leave a damp spot on your tire and would probably have obviously bubbling. Are you sure you have liquid sealant in the tire? Do you have enough? Have you checked around the valve and the valve itself for leaks? Lather up that part of the rim with soapy water.
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Sep 24, 2023 00:44
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Sentient Data posted:Is there even a point in going tubeless? The only benefit I see people calling out is running at a lower psi. It feels like the fat tire bike trend all over again the fat tire bike "trend" varies widely by region
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Sep 24, 2023 00:48
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Clark Nova posted:If you can find the leak, sure, plug it, but IME you often won't be able to find a puncture with tubeless. The first thing I try with a slow leak (days not hours) is to top off the sealant if it seems low then go for a 20-30 mile ride, which usually fixes it TobinHatesYou posted:20psi over two days should at least leave a damp spot on your tire and would probably have obviously bubbling. Are you sure you have liquid sealant in the tire? Do you have enough? Have you checked around the valve and the valve itself for leaks? Lather up that part of the rim with soapy water. thanks, i'll mess around with it a little but I have tubes and may just pop one in if it turns out to be too much of a hassle
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Sep 24, 2023 00:53
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Plugs are mostly for holes that are too large for the sealant to work on. A leak that takes days to flatten the tire should be small enough for the sealant to handle. I’d add sealant and put in a new valve core. It’s possible that the core is at fault for the slow leak, and cores are too cheap to be cleaning and reusing them.
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Sep 24, 2023 01:07
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SimonSays posted:Thisisbait dot gif No, and these kind of unhelpful dismissive replies are why I had to ask in the first place. Go back to trolling a Linux forum with that attitude  Guinness posted:Yes, no pinch flats and small punctures seal themselves before you even know they happened. Haven't had a flat in 1k miles after switching to marathon tires with standard tubes, at least this is good to know if problems crop up eventually Platystemon posted:I do it for the lower rolling resistance. I thought the opposite was true? I knew it as lower psi for more grip but needing to spend more energy, higher psi for lower rolling resistance Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Sep 24, 2023 |
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Sep 24, 2023 01:08
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Sentient Data posted:I thought the opposite was true? I knew it as lower psi for more grip but needing to spend more energy, higher psi for lower rolling resistance
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Sep 24, 2023 01:36
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Uhhhh hmmm 
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Sep 24, 2023 02:15
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e: ^^^wrap some electrical tape around that all tidy and it's good as new Tubeless is awesome, no more pinch flats. It is the opposite of a fad.
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Sep 24, 2023 02:27
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Sentient Data posted:No, and these kind of unhelpful dismissive replies are why I had to ask in the first place. Go back to trolling a Linux forum with that attitude It's more accurate to say you can use less pressure for the same rolling resistance as tubes, or less rolling resistance at the same pressure. Going to tubeless on my gravel bike I am able to run about 5psi less than tubes and it still rolls faster
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Sep 24, 2023 03:22
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Sentient Data posted:Haven't had a flat in 1k miles after switching to marathon tires with standard tubes, at least this is good to know if problems crop up eventually Not trying to be snarky.. since switching to tubeless over 5 years (~20k miles) ago, the only 2 flats I've had were 1. a dozen discarded rusty razor blades in the gutter shredded both tires instantly and 2. took about 50 goat head thorns in both tires all at once on a bad trail - one tire got a slow leak and needed a tube. Running light/fast tires without suffering flats does it for me. (but my shopping bike has tubes, because I like grabbing it any time without needing to pump more air in)
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Sep 24, 2023 05:04
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Blackhawk posted:Uhhhh hmmm Did you drop your chain while spinning at 5,000 rpm? That’s deep
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Sep 24, 2023 08:38
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bicievino posted:For professional use the main difference is you're looking for things that speed you up. I've been kinda thinking the best solution would be two stands, one for truing and one for wheelbuilding, but there's really only space for one. The park tool one is pretty good for truing - wheel goes in quick and eyeballing the true with calipers is often good enough. Ours is just losing the dish adjustment constantly despite a complete clean and regrease and numerous centerings. It gets annoying when building a wheel and you have to take it out constantly to check the dish with the separate gauge. There's a rebuild kit available that I might still give a go. The way the hub mounts to the p&klie and having to zero the gauges etc. would probably be extra steps and overkill for just correcting a few spokes but really nice for building a wheel. I guess the Abbey could be the best of both worlds but that's a lot of money for something no-one's ever used yet.
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Sep 24, 2023 09:02
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Did you drop your chain while spinning at 5,000 rpm? That’s deep This is where I reveal that I've probably been riding with at least half that damage for ~10 years lol. I think most of it was a pretty bad dropped chain that got sucked up and wedged in there years ago when I started riding, but it's happened a few times since which I'm sure has only added to it. It's through the outer cosmetic layer and then maybe two more layers of carbon, the whole area still feels solid but having had a good look at it I'm not going to ride it any more as it is. Given it's a 12 year old generic carbon frame I'm not sure if it would be worth trying to get it repaired at this stage vs. just getting a new frame and swapping all the parts over.
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Sep 24, 2023 09:20
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You’ll pay a couple/few hundred for a basic repair without any paint. Considering you can get a modern open mold frameset for $500-$600 I wouldn’t sink any money into it unless there’s sentimental value. Alternatively repairing carbon yourself isn’t a terrible difficult prospect, although a straight tube section would be easier to learn on
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Sep 24, 2023 10:41
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Sentient Data posted:No, and these kind of unhelpful dismissive replies are why I had to ask in the first place. Go back to trolling a Linux forum with that attitude Fine but these arguments never go anywhere and come up regularly hence "this is bait": tubeless is a fad because it's pointless for most riders (like most so-called improvements to bikes where you need to buy a new frame or wheelset or transmission to take advantage of it), it makes a simple five-minute tube replacement into a gross mess of cleaning up the gunk when you do wind up needing an emergency tube, and it's more expensive to do right than tubes. If you're mountain biking in thorn country go tubeless, that's what it's for, but most people are perfectly well served by using tubes and the appropriate tires for the riding they do.
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Sep 25, 2023 03:18
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SimonSays posted:If you're mountain biking in thorn country go tubeless, that's what it's for This is the best succinct way to put it, and that info surprisingly isn't as clear when googling that's why I asked thanks
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Sep 25, 2023 03:45
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It’s not clear because that use case is encompassed by most modern mtb riding, where riding with more grip and control is worth any maintenance differences.
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Sep 25, 2023 03:52
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sometimes if my psi is too high I’ll ride over a bunch of shards of glass in the shoulder to let some air out. can’t do that with tubes
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Sep 25, 2023 04:07
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:You’ll pay a couple/few hundred for a basic repair without any paint. Considering you can get a modern open mold frameset for $500-$600 I wouldn’t sink any money into it unless there’s sentimental value. Turns out the manufacturer I got the frame from doesn't make one for QR wheels and rim brakes any more, and going to disc brakes and thru axles would make trying to re-use my existing parts kinda pointless. I'll look into the repair option as I just bought a whole bunch of replacement parts for my current groupset, and the wheels are nice and have plenty of life left in them yet.
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Sep 25, 2023 07:15
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Hey prestailures, good luck replacing* valve cores without losing† air pressure‡ in your tires.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsLZE5SG0EY * I only need to replace them because they clog so readily.  † I only need to keep pressure in the tire because it’s a janky setup on rims not designed to be used without tubes. The beads unseat if the tire comes close to atmospheric pressure.  ‡ I can actually just pressurize the tire to max, unscrew the core quickly, plug the stem with my thumb, unplug and quickly insert and tighten the new core. The tire loses a lot of pressure but not enough to unseat the bead. The tool is cool but ultimately unnecessary.  Platystemon posted:Someone should make a bottle to hold sealant with a hose to screw onto a tire valve stem coming out of the bottom and a valve on top to connect to a pump. I did make one of these because of the aforementioned problem, that the tire unseats at low pressure, so I can’t simply remove the valve core and squirt in sealant. So I inject it under pressure. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 08:10
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The clogging thing is really annoying and it sucks that the only proper solution is paying $100 for fucken special valves. I have to say I've gone from loads of punctures to zero after switching to tubeless, and what off-road riding I do is on pretty coarse, rocky gravel that makes me feel bad for my bike and rims + country roads covered in garbage. My rear tire has like twenty self-sealed holes in it which were all present before I went tubeless. I've never gotten a puncture big enough to need any kind of plug, idk how that even happens outside of mtb tbh but anecdote isn't data. I would never, ever bother with tubeless on a road bike or commuter though. The extra hassle isn't worth it. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 08:20
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Slavvy posted:I would never, ever bother with tubeless on a road bike or commuter though. The extra hassle isn't worth it.
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Sep 25, 2023 09:08
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There’s this interesting commercial solution to adding sealant under pressure that uses special valves with flexible wipers that act as check valves so that when the Presta core is removed, the wipers air in. You can then slip a straw through them to inject sealant under pressure with a syringe or to withdraw it and measure its quantity. It’s kind of neat, but whatever, simply topping it up regularly works fine, and you can remove the core and use a dip stick unless you have evil unseating beads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV3ENoc02wE Platystemon fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 09:33
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I commute in foul weather with it being dark on both ends of the commute for 6 months out of the year. Tubeless is well worth the annoyances for that application - saving even one ordeal of fighting with trying to find the tiny piece of wire or glass that is too small to see in the dark but still big enough to puncture the tube is worth it. For folks with well groomed roads who don't deal with that - I'm jealous! I'd probably stick with tubes if I could.
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Sep 25, 2023 09:55
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I've not ridden on a tubed bike in 5 or 6 years now at least, across summer/winter/commuter bikes If you do it properly, not hacking it, and using good sealant it's absolutely worth it on the road I've had to put a tube in once, on a 2 inch glass cut that nothing would have prevented
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Sep 25, 2023 14:29
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