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I'd say around 60f/15c or so. It'll still work but you'll need to change your exposure settings and everything's going to take longer.
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Sep 22, 2023 08:12
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It is somewhat resin dependant, each one/type is going to have a point at which they don't work quite as well, but if you have a temperature controlled space 68f is as low as I would go.
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Sep 22, 2023 18:20
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For the record, after the hell summer, I have found no upwards bound on temperature. My Mars 2 with sunlu ABS printed exactly as well at 70 when I started in April as it did in July when it was 105. (Mine's in an un-insulated garage)
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Sep 22, 2023 19:25
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Rad-daddio posted:do you run a .4 nozzle or a .6? .4, I didn't notice much if any of a speed gain on my p1ps with a 6
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Sep 22, 2023 20:34
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is there an upper limit on resin print temperature? I need to move my units to the garage and Florida summers do what they do. edit: i read good Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 22, 2023 |
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Sep 22, 2023 21:25
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Deviant posted:is there an upper limit on resin print temperature? I need to move my units to the garage and Florida summers do what they do. I forget if it was in this thread or the general 3D printing one, but I remember some goon talking about how they had their printer in a shed or something over this past summer, and the weather got hot enough for prints to start failing.
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Sep 22, 2023 21:30
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Deviant posted:is there an upper limit on resin print temperature? I need to move my units to the garage and Florida summers do what they do. Two posts up, Texas reporting in. I had temps of 105 on the thermometer above my print station, and I didn't notice any misbehavior.
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Sep 22, 2023 22:05
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I've been printing up some roads and other bits for this Mordhiem event. Today I finally got a chance to pop some paints on the roads to see how they come up.   Pretty stoked. 9 hours per piece on my old ender 3s, but pretty happy either way.
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Sep 23, 2023 12:13
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X-post gon' give it to yaCommunist Thoughts posted:To celebrate the buffing of deathguard I printed an up to date version of an old custom character i made as a little kid out of a cobbled together ork, coldone rider, abaddon and an avatar arm (no idea where i got the avatar hand from).  bonus pic of the head, nurgle heads are really fun to sculpt. his teeth fell out but i think that kinda works Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Sep 23, 2023 |
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Sep 23, 2023 13:49
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Are those the flagstone roads from printable scenery? They look awesome
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Sep 23, 2023 13:49
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tehsid posted:I've been printing up some roads and other bits for this Mordhiem event. Today I finally got a chance to pop some paints on the roads to see how they come up. The occasional dash of dry grass flocking adds a ton, good work!
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Sep 23, 2023 16:27
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tehsid posted:I've been printing up some roads and other bits for this Mordhiem event. Today I finally got a chance to pop some paints on the roads to see how they come up. This is exactly what I wanna print and I just got my ender 3 back yesterday from my friend who fixed it. Could you share where you got the files? Unless that's 
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Sep 23, 2023 19:43
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crime fighting hog posted:This is exactly what I wanna print and I just got my ender 3 back yesterday from my friend who fixed it. Could you share where you got the files? I think it's these! https://www.printablescenery.com/product/roads-of-ruin/
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Sep 23, 2023 23:11
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Count Thrashula posted:I think it's these! That's exactly what they are!
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Sep 23, 2023 23:22
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What's the best resin for small, highly detailed items? Game pieces, thinking 6mm - 30mm or thereabouts. I've been gathering a hoard of stl files for a long time now and I finally worked up the nerve to fire off a test print and  My first attempt is with "Anycubic ABS-like V2" and I have not a clue if this is a good type of resin for this use or not. My printer is an Anycubic Photon Mono M5s, and I'm using the Anycubic slicing software, although I've read the names Chitubox and Lychee and will switch to one of these if they're better. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Sep 24, 2023 |
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Sep 24, 2023 01:43
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I used to do an 80/20 mix of siraya blu and siraya tenacious. Gave the prints a tiny bit of flexibility while still being rigid.
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Sep 24, 2023 02:02
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We're big fans of SUNLU/Jayo ABS-Like resin around these parts.
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Sep 24, 2023 02:22
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Kylaer posted:What's the best resin for small, highly detailed items? Game pieces, thinking 6mm - 30mm or thereabouts. I've been gathering a hoard of stl files for a long time now and I finally worked up the nerve to fire off a test print and If by game pieces you mean miniatures, ABS like resins tend to be the most popular because they have a high level of detail while maintaining some small amount of flexibility. The types of resin to avoid for miniatures would be water-washable and eco/plant like resin. Water washable being significantly worse than eco, eco resin being marginal to ok based on manufacturer and type of object. If you start printing things that are "large" in the resin world, pieces say the width/size of a phone, especially ones that need to fit together well, then shrinkage becomes a critical factor in the resin, as resin prints are not nearly as precise as FDM prints can be. Large pieces can warp easily. They can warp based on type of resin/shrinkage, cure time, support layout and type of supports. If you are printing mostly miniatures you should be fine with that resin. The smaller stuff is actually sometimes more difficult to print. For really small items don't be afraid to go with smaller layer height, longer rest times, slower speeds, etc.... One of the key thought processes to take onboard with 3d printing is that a slower print that produces a finished product the first time is faster than a fast print that takes multiple attempts to get a good finished item. Also, for your first couple prints, ignore the urge to completely fill up the plate. Not because the printer cannot handle it, but because your first 10 or so prints are when you are still "warming up" and are most likely to make an error and have a failure.
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Sep 24, 2023 02:39
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Yes, miniatures, thank you all for your input! I'll look into those brands and try their stuff. The ABS-like that I'm using is water washable so I specifically want one that isn't water washable for best performance, is that right?
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Sep 24, 2023 03:04
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Kylaer posted:Yes, miniatures, thank you all for your input! I'll look into those brands and try their stuff. The ABS-like that I'm using is water washable so I specifically want one that isn't water washable for best performance, is that right? Yeah go for an abs like, possibly blend it with 20% of some flexible resin. I like sirayatech and esun lately The water washable stuff is trash, not exactly sure why. Pretty brittle and hard to work with
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Sep 24, 2023 03:30
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Water washable has a tendency to Crack as well. Some brands are probably better than others though. Seems like disposal would be much harder as well.
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Sep 24, 2023 07:21
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I did notice the stuff I printed seems very brittle, and removing the supports is really difficult (although that may be a slicer/autosupport issue?). I'll order some Siraya and Jayo resins and see how they do, thanks  The washing specifies 95% isopropyl, is 99% also okay? That's what the local hardware store carries in gallon jugs it looks like.
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Sep 24, 2023 12:05
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I have only used water washable resins so far, and been generally amazed at the detail I could get out of it, once I learned how to clean things properly. I only printed 28mm scale minis as the smallest so far though, I have no idea if 6mm would come out well - tbf I have noticed some shrinkage, like some swords or rods come out really thin, but no cracking, with everything printed solid. I learned you should never try to do hollow with water washable resin at least, as it's harder to flush out uncured stuff from inside than with standard resin. To clean it I use a small ultrasonic jewellery cleaner I got for 20 bucks and my system is, run them in it for 2 minutes straight out of the vat, then change the water and do it again another 2 mins, and it seems to clean them really well. I then use that water for the first run of the next batch so it is pretty efficient in the amount of lovely resin water to deal with afterwards. An ultrasonic cleaner seems ideal for water washable resin because it doesn't have the tendency to explode when heated like a vat of IPA, and it gets stuff out of every cranny. Also! I posted a while ago I was having trouble with my prints failing and warping in weird ways on Mars 3 Pro. I suspected it was the flex plate magnet losing adhesion to the build plate so I removed it. However, while doing this I noticed that even though I was tightening the plate bolts really well afrer relevelling, the one on the right hand side would always be loose after printing, such that it was easy to move by hand. This seems weird because everything online says you should only need to relevel your plate once every few months, I had to do it after every print because the thing would move usually just from removing the flex plate. As it turns out, the Mars 3 Build plate will spin freely when the bolts are loose, but there IS a right way and wrong way to orient it. At some point mine got spun around the wrong way I guess, I rotated it 180 and tightened it, and now on my 3rd print without needing to retighten it. I don't see this mentioned anywhere on the official docs, but it seems like theres an 'S' brand on top of the plate (or it's a sideways infinity sign from the Elegoo logo) and it should be on the LEFT side, not the right. I wish I had found that out and tried it before removing the flex plate, because I forgot how annoying it is to chip stuff off with a chisel. But on the plus side, models are coming out nice again! I'll probably get another flex magnet, or just another plate soon. Tiocfaidh Yar Ma fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Sep 24, 2023 |
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Sep 24, 2023 12:15
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I have only used water washable resins so far, and been generally amazed at the detail I could get out of it, once I learned how to clean things properly. I only printed 28mm scale minis as the smallest so far though, I have no idea if 6mm would come out well - tbf I have noticed some shrinkage, like some swords or rods come out really thin, but no cracking, with everything printed solid. I learned you should never try to do hollow with water washable resin at least, as it's harder to flush out uncured stuff from inside than with standard resin. Oh my loving god. I just assumed something was off and I just had to level my plate every other print.
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Sep 24, 2023 22:10
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i just saw these the other day on myminifactory and im addicted, such an awesome idea for dungeon tiles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVSzSTlcn0s i oprinted a little test room for myself to see the FDM quality and its great.  i showed them to one of my big buyers on etsy and the dude bought $700 worth, he loves them too. gonna make a big starter set style thing and a bunch of little expansion rooms to add on
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Sep 25, 2023 17:58
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Ah yeah, Dungeonblocks are rad. I'm also kind of amazed at how fast they're rolling them out, they have a crowdfunder/frontier on MMF with 90-100+ pieces every couple of months it seems. Very satisfying to build, but I wouldn't know where to start with what should be in a starter set, considering the variety of pieces even in the Dungeon one. (4 3x3s, a border, then just a couple walls, corners, and flats? I guess you could find a decent bunch you could print on 2 P1/X1 plates.) I really like that they're scaled a bit up compared to a classic 25mm grid, they can actually fit a mini on the tiles, even if there's some stuff (like a bench) present. One thing I feel is missing are inverted corners for the frames I suppose, but you can get a ton out of 6 or more 3x3 frames. (Excuse the unfinished salamander.) 
SubNat fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 20:59
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Is there any particular reason to choose Lychee versus Chitubox? I want to try a different slicer than the Anycubic included one, even the thinnest autosupports seem awfully thick for the tiny things I'm trying to print.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:02
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The Lychee site doesn't look like a Malware delivery system.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:12
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SubNat posted:Ah yeah, Dungeonblocks are rad. holy poo poo. awesome. i floated the idea of using openlock dungeon tiles for frostgrave but between the material requirement and the finnickyness of snap locks and/or magnets i was put off. not to mention the classic "is a wall on a tile or a separate tile?" problem. these look to solve all but material requirement (which admittedly isn't really all that much a problem, just an investment)
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Sep 25, 2023 21:12
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SubNat posted:Ah yeah, Dungeonblocks are rad. Seem like a cool system, but requires more plastic that openlock no? Is the main advantage the somewhat built-in support for building levels?
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Sep 25, 2023 21:22
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i like the tile size, not losing the corner squares in a room is nice. also as far as like, commercially selling they just seem "funner" than standard open or dragonlock, which is pretty huge for advertising them and stuff. edit: also im gonna magnetize the grid squares so you can snap em together.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:46
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Level support, I like the design and tiles, and since you just drop them in you don't jostle stuff around when snapping together or whatnot. Just slotting them in instead of dealing with clips or magnets, etc. Super easy for a dm to just drop in another 3x3 or two without much faff to unveil a new room. No system is perfect, but I quite like Dungeonblocks.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:51
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i just played around in a slicer and wow does fdm take forever compared to sla. at least modern sla with an lcd screen. material is about half the price of resin and build plates are larger on average... but that build time. if i wanted to print a whole fuckload of those dungeon blocks, would it be worth getting an fdm printer? i have a saturn 4k right now
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Sep 25, 2023 22:56
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My p1p is pretty drat fast, can rip out 10 tiles in like 4 hours. I have 7 of them so I can bang out a ton fast. They look great in FDM which is nice
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Sep 25, 2023 23:02
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:i just played around in a slicer and wow does fdm take forever compared to sla. at least modern sla with an lcd screen. material is about half the price of resin and build plates are larger on average... but that build time. Bought an Ender 3 for exactly this reason. Resin is quite an expensive way of doing bulky stuff and though the detail of SLA is way better the precision of FDM is similarly much better for multi part and fiddly parts. Having only just gotten used to FDM the build time is reducible by a lot, 60 hours for a cargo container to 21 by reducing infill and increasing layer height with no appreciable difference.
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Sep 25, 2023 23:37
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I have an FDM arriving on Wednesday, and it's going to be my "just print stuff every day while I work" machine since I don't have to clean things, cure things, wear protective gear to take a pint off and start a new one. The trade off for "slow" is "easy" (for some values of easy) for terrain. And now apparently Dungeon Blocks, because those look super cool.
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Sep 26, 2023 00:09
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Lumpy posted:I have an FDM arriving on Wednesday, and it's going to be my "just print stuff every day while I work" machine since I don't have to clean things, cure things, wear protective gear to take a pint off and start a new one. The trade off for "slow" is "easy" (for some values of easy) for terrain. And now apparently Dungeon Blocks, because those look super cool. yeah. word. okay yeah i think that trade is worth it. queeb posted:My p1p is pretty drat fast, can rip out 10 tiles in like 4 hours. I have 7 of them so I can bang out a ton fast.  lol k well i wont be buying 7 of those much as id like and even just 1 is a bit pricey for my budget atm but what else is good on the market? ender 3 i saw mentioned and have heard of in the past as well. good pick?
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Sep 26, 2023 00:36
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Just sell poo poo on Etsy I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm on track for at least 80k in revenue this year
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Sep 26, 2023 00:54
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:yeah. word. okay yeah i think that trade is worth it. I got the ender 3 because it's basic as hell and a good one to learn the theory on. Getting it running at all was a pain in the rear end and getting it into decent shape was more of a pain still. If you can afford anything with auto bed levelling I would go in that direction, that will be my first upgrade.
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Sep 26, 2023 01:03
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If you want an FDM printer that Just Works and prints stuff for you, don't buy an Ender 3. I would even say don't buy anything from Creality.
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Sep 26, 2023 01:07
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