|
I feel like this is a dumb question and maybe I'm just being anal, but Im new to this: Im gluing up 8 inch wide boards to create shelves that are 9.5 inch wide, 11.5 inch wide & 14.5 inches wide. Is there anything wrong with just glueing a 1.5inch strip of wood to a 8 inch board to create a 9.5 inch, glue a 3.5 inch to another 8 inch for the 11.5 etc. Or should I put the seam in the middle? ie glue 2x 8 inch boards together and rip material from both sides? I'm building the shelves out of cherry & want them to look nice but also don't want to waste material so I can build other cool stuff later. I arrived at this question after trying to figure out how to make a miter cut. Somehow now I have $1500+ worth of new tools, a subscription to Fine Woodworking and a bunch of cherry boards.
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 02:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 16:54 |
|
|
You don't need to put the glue joint anywhere in particular, at least not for strength reasons. A properly-glued joint is stronger than the wood itself.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 03:02
|
|
|
a dingus posted:I feel like this is a dumb question and maybe I'm just being anal, but Im new to this: Im gluing up 8 inch wide boards to create shelves that are 9.5 inch wide, 11.5 inch wide & 14.5 inches wide. Is there anything wrong with just glueing a 1.5inch strip of wood to a 8 inch board to create a 9.5 inch, glue a 3.5 inch to another 8 inch for the 11.5 etc. Or should I put the seam in the middle? ie glue 2x 8 inch boards together and rip material from both sides? I'm building the shelves out of cherry & want them to look nice but also don't want to waste material so I can build other cool stuff later.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 03:09
|
|
|
Cool, glad to hear I don't need to be as anal as I thought might be expected. I guess as long as I can match the grain up nicely it wont look like theres a seam there. I don't think I have the expertise or time to rip them all into 3/4" boards but I did think about that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 17:26
|
|
a dingus posted:
Welcome to the club
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 17:39
|
|
|
a dingus posted:Cool, glad to hear I don't need to be as anal as I thought might be expected. I guess as long as I can match the grain up nicely it wont look like theres a seam there. I don't think I have the expertise or time to rip them all into 3/4" boards but I did think about that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 18:42
|
|
|
That Works posted:Welcome to the club Im a computer toucher so I feel like it was inevitable. It seems like we all end up doing it. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There is a very broad spectrum from 'It's fine' woodworking to 'fine woodworking' and really most stuff works. You can kind of go way deep down the rabbithole and get lost in the details of doing everything exactly to conform to the laws of wood movement and fancy joinery or you can screw some plywood together and they will both make a strong and good cabinet. Just depends how much time and energy you want to sink into any particular part of any particular project. I always err on the side of "fine" anything even when I don't have the expertise (or time as well in this case) and it bites me in the rear end. I glued up a panel this afternoon and used the trick you mentioned with the cauls and it looks a lot better than the first one I did without. Definitely a nice tip. Im just trying to fancy up some Rubbermaid dual track shelves since I quickly realized reproducing some cado shelving unit was way too much for me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2023 21:50
|
|
|
Something to remember about any artform: it's all well and good to try to do your best, but at the end of the day, doing it is the most important thing. You'll progress faster by getting practice, including the occasional fuckup, than if you spend ages arrested by anxiety because you want this piece to be perfect. Plus, even a flawed piece will look great once it's sanded and finished.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2023 01:17
|
|
|
True! I think I needed to hear that about it being more an art form than an engineering endeavor. Ive never built furniture before but I've finished a couple gunstocks for flintlock building kits and they've come out really nice. I'll post a pic later but I really enjoyed inletting and carving a patch box with hand tools. It didn't come out perfectly but I learned a lot. I'd like to get more into hand carving. Edit* figured out how to post a pic on mobile. Excuse the poo poo looking screws. I didn't spend enough time rusting them to complete the look.  
a dingus fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Sep 24, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2023 02:38
|
|
|
Sockington posted:I need to get a good set of sharpening stones and make a little angle guide base for that next. I’ve freehanded my chisels the odd time as they’ve needed it - and seen benefit - but I won’t touch my planes until I have something better than whatever random stone I have on my bench. I delayed buying any of that sharpening stuff and eventually just grabbed the three-pack of the Diamond credit card sized sharpeners to get the job done. I had some spare time on the night shift tonight, so quick cut some rough angles on the miter saw and brought my crap to work.  I just hadn’t used these planes since they were in such dull shape.  Not perfect by any means, but they can shave the hair off the leg with a gentle pass.  Picked up the bow for the bandsaw. Took a second to get used to but works pretty well.  Also some yard sale finds of a Bailey #5C and a Stanley #78 plow/rabbet plane.  Edit: the 78 was a bundle deal, but that Bailey tosses really nice compared to my existing lighter Stanley #5. Put the blades in just now and the tools work properly and smoothly now. The other two blades had big gouges out of them so it took quite a while to bring all three ‘round. I actually have useable hand planes and can’t wait to tackle the chisels next. Sockington fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Sep 24, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2023 09:08
|
|
|
Anyone used Sherwin Williams’s for wood stain matching? The guy in shop mentioned that they don’t just use the cheap min max stuff for stain matching.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 17:33
|
|
|
Calidus posted:Anyone used Sherwin Williams’s for wood stain matching? The guy in shop mentioned that they don’t just use the cheap min max stuff for stain matching. You can also get your own oil soluble dyes from Lockwood and play with it yourself. Universal colorant/pigments are easy to find too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 17:46
|
|
|
I really like General Finishes products for stains and topcoats these days. Had too many bad experiences with the cheap ones, thick clumpy pigment, uneven dye, etc
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 18:28
|
|
|
Real Milk Paint co. has good oil finishes especially the very convenient 50/50 mix of tung oil and citrus solvent. Can't comment on their paint.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2023 21:08
|
|
|
Pretty much finished up my little side project of building a rifle rack. I found a nice piece of curly maple at home creepshow and finished it with iron nitrate and danish oil. It made the curl pop a lot better than I expected. I think the danish oil did a lot of the heavy lifting because the 2nd flintlock form the top has a ton of character in the wood & also finished with iron nitrate but I sealed it with permalyn sealer instead. Now that I see the toasty brown I wish I'd done it differently. All I need to do is cut some 1/2inch dowel and make some plugs for the screw holes I probably should have done that before but eh..  
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 00:11
|
|
|
Hey everyone, what’s a good option for a shop heater that I can leave on overnight? I work in my garage, which is partly insulated but has no heating, and I’m going to be working this winter with epoxy that needs to be about 60F to cure properly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 00:56
|
|
|
a dingus posted:Pretty much finished up my little side project of building a rifle rack. I found a nice piece of curly maple at home creepshow and finished it with iron nitrate and danish oil. It made the curl pop a lot better than I expected. I think the danish oil did a lot of the heavy lifting because the 2nd flintlock form the top has a ton of character in the wood & also finished with iron nitrate but I sealed it with permalyn sealer instead. Now that I see the toasty brown I wish I'd done it differently. Apollodorus posted:Hey everyone, what’s a good option for a shop heater that I can leave on overnight?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 01:15
|
|
|
DIY heat pump mini split would be my approach. Probably more expensive than you want but also meant to stay on for long periods of time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 01:53
|
|
|
Thread title is fitting for me this week. Picked up some of the knockoff Woodpeckers tools from the local Busy Bee. I noticed these on my last trip through and wanted a few to try.  And holy poo poo I have wanted one of these for a bit.  This Milescraft pushstick can fuckoff now. I’ve had it slip when pushing stuff through feather boards and that was unpleasant. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 09:00
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You have anymore info on the iron nitrate process? I love using chemicals to color wood. It's really easy to apply, just wipe it on with a rag enough to wet the wood and then hit it with a heat gun after 15-20 minutes. When you first apply it you'll think it looks like rear end because it turns the wood this grey-green color but then it turns brown almost as soon as the heat gun hits it. This is the before and after heating:  I can't find much information about what it's actually doing but I think the curl absorbs more of the iron & water solution than the other parts of the wood so when you heat it the iron rusts and adds the brown color. I've never tried it on anything but maple & if it gets applied to inlets & areas with direct contact with metal it can promote rust unless it gets neutralizes really well. https://youtu.be/knSI5R5prxI?si=I8cMwCPFBmpNDqTB
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 10:00
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You have anymore info on the iron nitrate process? I love using chemicals to color wood. deimos posted:DIY heat pump mini split would be my approach. Probably more expensive than you want but also meant to stay on for long periods of time. There's enough space in my garage that I could put it on the concrete floor without it being close to anything flammable, I think. Really I just need a way to ensure my workshop doesn't get below freezing overnight, so as long as it can stay about 45-50F overnight that would be fine. Realistically, I probably won't have time to do more than one coat of epoxy per day anyway. A mini-split would definitely be my first choice, of course ... maybe I can find the budget for one before it gets really cold here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 10:45
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:There's enough space in my garage that I could put it on the concrete floor without it being close to anything flammable, I think. Basically I don't think anyone here wants to specifically advise you because the particulars matter. If your garage looks like mine, then it's an absolute hard-stop NO to putting an unattended heat source, but nobody would know that because you haven't seen my garage. Which has sawdust and shavings strewn around, my wife's cardboard box collection, an oxyacetylene rig, rags, piles of random nicely dried lumber, drier lint, it's already not great oh and this week we are rehabbing a cat out there so there's a live cat too. We just can't trust that <random goon> isn't unintentionally leaving out a detail. So do what you want but please don't set your garage on fire.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 17:06
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Basically I don't think anyone here wants to specifically advise you because the particulars matter. If your garage looks like mine, then it's an absolute hard-stop NO to putting an unattended heat source, but nobody would know that because you haven't seen my garage. Which has sawdust and shavings strewn around, my wife's cardboard box collection, an oxyacetylene rig, rags, piles of random nicely dried lumber, drier lint, it's already not great oh and this week we are rehabbing a cat out there so there's a live cat too. Yeah, people sometimes forget that the average wood shop is just a collection of fuel, explosives, and accelerants.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 17:40
|
|
|
The junk collector posted:Yeah, people sometimes forget that the average wood shop is just a collection of fuel, explosives, and accelerants.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 17:44
|
|
|
quote:We just can't trust that <random goon> isn't unintentionally leaving out a detail. So do what you want but please don't set your garage on fire. This is more or less how it looks at the moment. It’s about 25’ long (ie from where I’m standing to the far back wall) by 10’ wide. 
Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Sep 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 18:09
|
|
|
It occurred to me to look it up and apparently some portable ACs can also do heat. That's also a possibility since I think I see a window. This is the highest BTU one I could find https://www.midea.com/us/air-condit...eat-map14hs1tbl There are cheaper ones. poo poo, a window unit may also work since you don't really have to worry about constant use efficiency.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 18:37
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:This is more or less how it looks at the moment. It’s about 25’ long (ie from where I’m standing to the far back wall) by 10’ wide. I'm not saying to go ahead, but if you do, I would get rid of the rusty cans of thompson water seal that might be leaking vapor, walk around looking for any other sources of flammable vapor, I'd install a smoke alarm, and I'd worry that given the garage door isn't insulated and the exhaust fan is open to the outdoors that I'd need a lot of BTUs to keep it warm out there. But I also would just not do it, and prefer to cure something indoors, or during the day, or wait till summer or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 18:46
|
|
|
You know what puts out a surprising amount of heat? A decent size dehumidifier. I have no idea if it would be nearly enough to keep a garage from freezing, but it's very safe. ETA: I went through a similar period when trying to heat my own (similar size) garage, and decided to add a couple circuits. I added a couple of 220v and hooked one up to an electric heater. It eats $, but it's very safe. SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Sep 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 19:40
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I'm not saying to go ahead, but if you do, I would get rid of the rusty cans of thompson water seal that might be leaking vapor, walk around looking for any other sources of flammable vapor, I'd install a smoke alarm, and I'd worry that given the garage door isn't insulated and the exhaust fan is open to the outdoors that I'd need a lot of BTUs to keep it warm out there. But I also would just not do it, and prefer to cure something indoors, or during the day, or wait till summer or whatever. I’m going to insulate the garage door, and the water seal cans are long gone already. The fan isn’t open to the outdoors since it’s actually a recirculating air filter. deimos posted:It occurred to me to look it up and apparently some portable ACs can also do heat. That's also a possibility since I think I see a window. That’s probably the best solution since there are actually two windows. Neither of them is necessary for light, since I have a ton of overhead LED strips. Thanks for the suggestion—I did not know about these. Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Sep 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2023 22:17
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nitrocellulose lacquer is very nearly gunpowder dissolved in gasoline. It's more literally guncotton.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 01:15
|
|
|
SouthShoreSamurai posted:You know what puts out a surprising amount of heat? A decent size dehumidifier. I have no idea if it would be nearly enough to keep a garage from freezing, but it's very safe. Dehus stop working in cold temperatures, unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 01:39
|
|
|
Oil filled electric radiator might put out enough heat to keep the chill away and is pretty safe in a no exposed elements or flames way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 07:18
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:That’s probably the best solution since there are actually two windows. Neither of them is necessary for light, since I have a ton of overhead LED strips. Thanks for the suggestion—I did not know about these. The AC/heat unit is nice because it also can be used as an AC during the summer, which makes working in a partially insulated garage much nicer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 10:10
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nitrocellulose lacquer is very nearly gunpowder dissolved in gasoline. If he was using nitrocellulose, I don't think he'd have to worry about it freezing overnight. Y/N? But, then he'd have other issues to deal with. If I never have to deal with that stuff again ever, I'm okay with that. Stultus Maximus posted:It's more literally guncotton. It's loving hot as a solvent and toxic, I think we can all agree.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2023 15:11
|
|
|
Are there any brand recommendations as alternatives to Woodpeckers? I don't mind paying for quality, but $255 for a square is past the line for me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 15:56
|
|
|
Harbor Freight
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 16:34
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Are there any brand recommendations as alternatives to Woodpeckers? I don't mind paying for quality, but $255 for a square is past the line for me. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/search#q=Square&t=product-search-tab&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=25 E: Starrett is always a great choice
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 16:51
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Are there any brand recommendations as alternatives to Woodpeckers? I don't mind paying for quality, but $255 for a square is past the line for me. What kind of square do you need? These are totally fine: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/precisioncombinationsquare12.aspx. Get a starrett if you really want one, but I don't think you will see any practical difference. Whatever large framing square I have gotten at any big box store has always been square enough too. Woodpeckers has always seemed to exist in the 'great marketing that promises to solve your problem but really you don't actually need this and oh btw it costs 3x as much as it should' area of the woodworking world, but I've also never used any of their stuff so maybe it really is just bees knees. If you're stuff is consistently coming out not square, it probably isn't because your square isn't square enough.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 16:54
|
|
|
The swanson speed square is the standard for carpenters, it's cheap and effective for quick 90 and 45 cuts, and if you pore over the tiny booklet or watch a few videos, it's not bad at helping you get pretty close to other angles too. For a combination square I think Irwin is a fine choice. Irwin is better known in woodworking circles for having well-priced entry-level chisels, but the combo square is functional, has all the parts, and works, and is vastly cheaper than a starrett or especially something from lee valley. I own this 12" Irwin, and its 6" cousin, and they do their jobs perfectly. Perhaps a square costing 8x as much will feel nicer in the hand and look better hanging from a peg but I bet it's not meaningfully more precise. For a framing square, I think you can pick literally anything. As long as the numbers don't wear off or something, it's going to be fine. I've got one I found at a garage sale or something. I checked it against my combo square for squareness and it's square. I also have an old, antique try square, and it isn't square, it's off by maybe a half degree, I've been meaning to try and fix it. I suspect it was just banged around in a tool chest a lot. So do actually check any used or cheap square for squareness. That said, I would guess that the Spear & Jackson try square, at under $15 for the 9" and about $12 for the 6", is square and fine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 17:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 16:54 |
|
|
Yeah I should amend that by saying I only actually own one Starrett product, their dividers. The rest of my work squares are Empire and Stanley, anything more expensive and they get stolen out of the crew's gang-box. For combo squares ALWAYS get the all-metal ones, with a metal tightening screw. Avoid the plastic thumbscrew ones like the plague.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2023 17:14
|
|