Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

chrisgt posted:

sweet, thanks for the suggestions!! I guess the unusual bleeding sequence sorta confirms the circuits are front/rear not diagonal.
The front brakes definitely do work, but are the rears grabbing first and doing most of the braking I don't know, that's a good thought and i'll have to ride up the road to the dirt section and go give it a try. The rear pads are worn more than i'd expect for the mileage, so it's possible whatever proportioning magic is inside the ABS pump is to blame.

I didn't know you could order a first gen tundra without ABS, i wonder if i could use that setup to eliminate the ABS poo poo from the sequoia.
The traction control threw a shitfit one day and locked up the front left wheel going 70mph on the interstate, so.... yea. i've maintained that stupid system for years but if that's its failure mode for a bad sensor input, i'm not interested.s

Doesn't traction control require the ABS pump to be working? Or was that before you disconnected the pump?

It looks like the 1st gen could be had without ABS - I'm not sure how common it is, but I'm finding references to proportioning valves for 00-06. Here's a quick "how to adjust" for one, looks like it probably sat between the rear end and the bed. https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-brake-proportioning-valve.76916/. I would think the Sequoia doesn't have one since it's heavier in the rear, but you might see if there's one hiding on the rear axle.

It looks like it just uses a lever to adjust it based on how much the rear is squatting; I would think the weight difference between an empty Tundra and a Sequoia would eliminate the need for it, but maybe not.

Found a proper 1st gen Tundra FSM online, don't know if that'll help (it's for an 03, but an 02 should be pretty similar, and I think much of it will probably be useful on a Sequoia).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

randomidiot posted:

Doesn't traction control require the ABS pump to be working? Or was that before you disconnected the pump?

It looks like the 1st gen could be had without ABS - I'm not sure how common it is, but I'm finding references to proportioning valves for 00-06. Here's a quick "how to adjust" for one, looks like it probably sat between the rear end and the bed. https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-brake-proportioning-valve.76916/. I would think the Sequoia doesn't have one since it's heavier in the rear, but you might see if there's one hiding on the rear axle.

It looks like it just uses a lever to adjust it based on how much the rear is squatting; I would think the weight difference between an empty Tundra and a Sequoia would eliminate the need for it, but maybe not.

Found a proper 1st gen Tundra FSM online, don't know if that'll help (it's for an 03, but an 02 should be pretty similar, and I think much of it will probably be useful on a Sequoia).

huh, didn't know the tundra had that, sequoia does not, though. I just replaced all rubbers back there and i would have seen that.
The sequoia has vastly different rear suspension, too. The tundra has leafs and the sequoia has multilink coil spring suspension.

edit: also, all first gen tundras have rear drum brakes and all sequoias have rear discs, so that probably accounts for the proportioning valve differences.

chrisgt fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Sep 19, 2023

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
FWIW Toyota has issues with their rear brakes on Sequoia and 4runner models of that era. In the Toyota/4runner forums, it's a plague. No amount of bleeding seems to resolve it, at least for long. It seems to be a design of the caliper itself.

I'm on my second set of rear calipers on my 08 4runner. The design sucks. I replaced everything (front and rear calipers, stainless lines, pads and rotors) at 100k about 8 years ago. I'm thinking about replacing the rear calipers again because I've got uneven pad wear and shuttering. Upon inspection they're pretty rusty and the slide pins are corroded. Honestly the thought of rebuilding doesn't seem like it will solve the problem.

I can't wait to replace this with a new vehicle from Washington with no rust. I will literally weep.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
If the rear brakes seems to be getting hot and doing most of the work, and an inspection deems everything back there to be in good working order, then maybe the problem is at the front. Are the front calipers seized? Are the slide pins moving freely?

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

If the rear brakes seems to be getting hot and doing most of the work, and an inspection deems everything back there to be in good working order, then maybe the problem is at the front. Are the front calipers seized? Are the slide pins moving freely?

Front calipers were replaced about 2500 miles ago with the rears. They are 4 piston fixed calipers and i was able to compress them by pushing on the pads with a pry bar. I can pull them apart further and do a more thorough check, though. When I step hard on the brakes it doesn't pull to one side, it brakes perfectly straight. I would hope so after replacing every pad, rotor, caliper, and bracket in the entire system so recently.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:
well i sorta lost my poo poo this morning, got up real early and went out to the garage with techstream. Why toyota didn't give you a power bleed option for an 02 is beyond me, so i hosed around and got the TRAC system working again(ish). There are still issues, but it operates again.
I did this so i could jack up one wheel at a time in AWD, open its bleeder, and force the ABS pump to cycle fluid through that brake.
I did this long enough to cycle a whole bottle through the system.

The brake pedal is still mushy like it has been for the last 150k miles of my ownership, but my short testdrive loop didn't overheat the back brakes... I had to go to work, but later i'll do a longer drive. I'm so loving angry at this poo poo lol.

EDIT: i played hooky from work to go for a ride down the road for a few miles. When I got home the front brakes were a bit warm (hard to drive home without braking at all), and the backs were a tad warmer than the front. Dunno how warm is normal honestly, never micromanaged it before. But previously the brakes were thermonuclear, so i'm going to keep a 10mm wrench, gloves, and plugs so if this happens far from home i can cap the back brakes and get home. i loving hate cars sometimes. i need this stupid poo poo working before i swap the engine in my truck.

EDIT 2: ya nope, it's still hosed. Since I got the ABS to cycle so much fluid i'd be fairly surprised if that's the problem. I'm tied up thursday night through monday morning, so i'll throw a master cylinder on the loving thing next week. It absolutely NEEDS to be working in two weeks for something specific and i'd rather not do that with the back brakes blocked off :v:

chrisgt fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Sep 20, 2023

Rosoboronexport
Jun 14, 2006

Get in the bath, baby!
Ramrod XTreme
Got some new wipers. Apparently some old goon is working for Bosch Automotive :v:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

I replaced the cooling system before it’s first track day and pumped in new brake fluid.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Rosoboronexport posted:

Got some new wipers. Apparently some old goon is working for Bosch Automotive :v:



Oh, wow.
That's instantly what I thought of when I saw the pic, before I even read your text.


ThirstyBuck posted:

I replaced the cooling system before it’s first track day and pumped in new brake fluid.



Oh, is there something about the BMW cooling systems? <ducks thrown water pump>

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Breaking my back doing a detail of my wife's old Escape while repeating to myself "clean cars sell for more and faster". Now I just wish it didn't have the typical Escape rust combined with dings of life.


nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That looks fantastic. Nice work.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


You missed a spot.
No, the other one.
:haw:

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Darchangel posted:

You missed a spot.
No, the other one.
:haw:

I should have done a before photo... It was rough. Spotshot and the carpet cleaner put in work. I did the driver footwell and improved it but the footrest area on the left was solid mat of carpet. Its toast. Good thing this car has both deep rubber winter mats and the carpet ones in the trunk, literally never used. We got this car at 1600 miles from grandma and my wife was not interested in swapping floor mats.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Heh. A joke. You do the best you can.
I've seen pros do some incredible clean ups, but DANG that's a lot of work, and thousands in tools and equipment...

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
Weirdest thing to have to run to the tractor parts store for in order to finish fixing your turn signal switch:
Cotton picker spindle grease

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

joat mon posted:

Weirdest thing to have to run to the tractor parts store for in order to finish fixing your turn signal switch:
Cotton picker spindle grease

Uhh, what kind of grease?

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
Finally got the Chevelle started tonight, and it's probably just the fact that the exhaust is full of holes but it sounds ROWDY.

Also, the fact I mixed 2-stroke oil in with the gas i was feeding it (trying to get some lubrication in it as I'd been cranking it over for the first time in I don't know how long, I also squirted a bit of oil in the cylinders when I changed the plugs) means I filled my garage with smoke faster than ever before!

:feelsgood:

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

No. 6 posted:

Uhh, what kind of grease?
Cotton pickin' cotton picker spindle grease

Those little spikes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr4Jpu8nPMI
That also spin individually in addition to rotating around the drum.

(It's just NLGI 00 grease, but it's marketed for cotton pickers)

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Got into Sick Week Florida next year. Hoping to get the Chevelle into the low 10s.

EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Sep 29, 2023

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I went to move my Ranger yesterday afternoon, and it cranked 1x and then wouldn't start.
The battery is only 18 months old, so I figured it couldn't be that, although there was a nice little pile of blue salt crystals on the terminal.

I did a push start (love manual transmissions), took it over to Autozone to see if they could test the battery.

Turns out once I cleared the acid crystals away, the terminal had a crack in it. $8 and 5 minutes in the parking lot later, it started right up without an issue.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



My NC MX-5 didn’t have the stock strut bar so I got one from GWR.



Couple more little things to come that I’m waiting to arrive; Carbon rear lip spoiler and aluminum coolant expansion tank.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Took the cheap garbage Chinese fog lights off the NC that didn’t really work anyway


BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Swapping all the poo poo from one K24 to another for the BRZ in effort to avoid windowing the block after a fat overrev

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe


Painted the dash, inner doors, and cowl. I'll finish the jambs tomorrow, and I should be about ready to put it in a booth.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Pretty!

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Sorted out a bunch of wheel weights and jammed them into an old toolbox for winter ballast.




All that work and it's only 25 lbs!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Uhhhh, I think thats upside down.

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

2.5 is a normal number

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Replaced the weak link in the NC engine bay, the coolant expansion tank.




Pretty easy install: after sucking the coolant out of the old tank, just unclip three hoses and undo four 10mm nuts. Pull old one out and replace with new tank. Refill. Dry small coolant spills. Cue OCD freak out because the cap is in a different orientation than stock.

Edit: and then I tucked the stereo wiring so it doesn’t look like poo poo

Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Oct 7, 2023

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Stopped by the guy fixing some rust on the El Camino, so *I* didn't do much except prepare to open my wallet.

Couple of days ago:


One of the before pictures:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Electric power steering coupler in the wife's Elantra. The factory one turns to goo eventually, which causes all kinds of slop and clunking noises.

They have an extended warranty out to 10 years for this, lucky me it got bad enough for my wife to complain at 10 years and 6 months :downsgun:

Interior panels pull off easily enough, then you get to unplug about 2 dozen connections and drop the column to get access to the power steering motor where the coupler lives. Took about 4 hours total, mostly on my back stuffed up under the dash. Been a while since I've had to do that, just as fun as always.







NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Oil change day ... got it all in the pan but it dumped out so fast it splashed out. Quickjack continues to be excellent.



Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NitroSpazzz posted:

Oil change day ... got it all in the pan but it dumped out so fast it splashed out

Just Porsche things. This is how it works on basically all of their stuff.

Also, quickjacks are absolutely great. Glad you're enjoying them.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Imperador do Brasil posted:

Replaced the weak link in the NC engine bay, the coolant expansion tank.




Pretty easy install: after sucking the coolant out of the old tank, just unclip three hoses and undo four 10mm nuts. Pull old one out and replace with new tank. Refill. Dry small coolant spills. Cue OCD freak out because the cap is in a different orientation than stock.

Edit: and then I tucked the stereo wiring so it doesn’t look like poo poo



Fascinating that Mazda didn't learn from the 3rd gen RX-7 and *its* expansion tank...

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Upgraded sway bars: Whiteline 30mm front, Superpro 27mm rear, both adjustable. Hopefully this improves outside edge tire wear on track: I'm out of good options to add front camber at 2.3 degrees, and want to keep ride quality reasonable for the other 95% of car usage. Stock is 26mm F / 25mm rear, so I'm looking at 60-100% more bar stiffness front, 40-65% more rear.

Rear bars, didn't get any pictures of the front:


Also failed at the project of installing Improved Racing baffling to the oil pan: I wasn't able to even see some of the bolts, let alone reach them. I haven't had any problems with oil pressure on track with 200TW tires and the 8qt pan on the SS (compared to 6qt on many other LS3 cars), but this may be worth paying a shop to do. Worst case I hold onto the parts and get them installed if, for some reason, a new engine goes into the car (I don't plan on doing this on purpose).

Also changed my oil, first time doing it myself. As long as the local Chevy dealer keeps offering changes for $40 (buy 3 for $120, any car), it's both cheaper and less of a mess to let them do it: 8 quarts of Dexos 2 full synthetic is more than $40, plus filter, and various paper towels as I spill oil in the garage.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I explored the limits of it's volume.



I'm pretty good at eyeballing stuff, but this took plugging in both tables and adjusting them a bunch to get it in.

Now i just have to remember the steps i took so i can get them out.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Did the PCV vent hose and retorqued the valve cover bolts on the M3. There was definitely a little seepage in a few spots on the valve cover, figured I'd do this before doing the VCG since I just did the valve cover earlier this year. I had used a different torque wrench when I did it and they were almost all a bit loose so hopefully that helps.



I dropped the screw that goes into the bottom part of the hose there. There's an aluminum skid plate under the whole front side of the car so it didn't make it to the ground. My magnet wasn't getting it so I ran to O'reilly to get a mirror and a bendy grabber thing to try and get it.



Found it! :negative:

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Thing I was planning on doing this weekend: swapping back to stock springs. The ride quality hit from the Pedders springs is a bit much (and may be playing poorly with the dynamic behavior of the magneride shocks), I don't care about the visual impacts of the 12mm drop, and I'm not making it to as many track days as I'd like.

Thing I found at the front of the car: I damaged one of the strut mount bearings, probably while installing it. So I taped the broken piece of plastic back in and reinstalled, Superpro is sending me a new bearing for $15.

Rear of the car: torn CV boot! GM OEM CV boot kit is $40 and is backordered until December. OEM axle is $500 and is backordered until December. So, onward to a temp fix: repacked with grease, and applied high vibration/flex silicone to try and seal the crack.
Before:

After:

I'll give it 24hr to cure and poke at it tomorrow. Waiting on a quote from the dealership to do a boot replacement, at which point I'll decide if it's worth doing myself, or paying for. If I do it myself, I'll need to get a couple tools, and either way I should decide if it's worth combining this with a new wheel bearing (at 66k miles, no problems yet) and a slightly early diff fluid change.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Some tire cleaning, got this set of Saab Areo 92s with studded winter tires (brand new looking Hakkapeliittas)


Then up on my improv tire racks, don't drive the saab in winter so I'll sell the rims and keep the tires for the mazda which uses the same tired. I need to do something about the mazda rims, rusty ugly steel rims. I mean steel rims are fine for this car, but I need to derust and repaint them.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



The back end of the MX5 looked a little weird and bubbly, so I got a little lip spoiler



  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply