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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

down1nit posted:

It's still around

Thanks, wow. I'm in Concord now, getting to the crucible upon an evening is sort of a pain in the rear end for me, and my wife does ceramics and runs a ceramic studio in SF and is pretty overwhelmed with the work that involves right now. And also we're dealing with family stuff. But I know a few names here and there, she does too, including former Crucible people, we could help get the word out if you're serious about getting something going. Hit me up with a PM and we can chat.

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Someone should go on there and post "Wear something to cover your dick too cause I had a grinder wheel break and well, you know".


Yooper posted:



You want the steel to "grow" on one side, and "shrink" on the other. Doing that right at the weld joint won't get you much. I'd head one side, and then cool the opposite side. That should cause it to get longer on the inside and shorter on the outside, slightly arcing it. It's been awhile since I've done this, but it should work for that distance.
Got ya. I'll try that.

My thinking behind heating at the joint was something like: Jack it till they're 22" apart, heat the joints to make them uhhhh, pliable and then the metal will "relax" and when it cools, it would (hopefully) be at 22".

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

down1nit posted:

I'm a computer toucher and very far from metalworking most times, but every horror story I've heard has either been from bench grinders or angle grinders. Launching stuff, wires going through eyes, stone or fiberglass shattering, sparking fires etc, all from grinders... just... dust from them even...

Is grinding the worst?

I've lit myself on fire, more than once, with an angle grinder. Also don't use a wire wheel when wearing shorts. These problems are avoidable if you're not lazy.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Someone should go on there and post "Wear something to cover your dick too cause I had a grinder wheel break and well, you know".
I would recommend against most metalworking while naked, welding will give you a terrible sunburn/flashburn.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

down1nit posted:

I'm a computer toucher and very far from metalworking most times, but every horror story I've heard has either been from bench grinders or angle grinders. Launching stuff, wires going through eyes, stone or fiberglass shattering, sparking fires etc, all from grinders... just... dust from them even...

Is grinding the worst?

Angle grinders are pretty dangerous as handheld tools go, but it's easy to mitigate the dangers if you're careful and not doing dumb or careless poo poo. A full face shield, gloves, denim over boots, rigid workholding, using the handle, and not using stupid poo poo like chainsaw wheels will manage like 90% of the accidents that can happen. Knowing how the work will move as you cut through it, knowing the reaction forces from cutting, and managing the swarf and people walking by deals with most of the rest.

Hadlock posted:


Weld.com has a great video on grinder usage by an OSHA type safety instructor and in a nutshell his advice was "gloves and face shield 100% of the time" with the comments filled with stuff like "I wish I'd seen this before I lost an eye"

I've heard a 50/50 split on using gloves with bench grinders. Gloves protect you from swarf, sharp edges and heat, but if you're working on a small workpiece close to the wheel and the wheel grabs your glove, it's gonna be a Very Bad Time. Idk. I'm personally a "no gloves when your hands are working close to a spinning tool" person. Though if this is about angle grinders, then yes I'm unequivocally 100% on gloves and face shield.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah sorry I specifically meant for angle grinders. I missed the bit about bench grinders

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Got ya. So do you think it'd be good for some 1/16" wall tube?

idk I only really do TIG and always DCEP and turn down amps for thin stuff, I don't know the first thing about stick welding thing stuff, sorry.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

idk I only really do TIG and always DCEP and turn down amps for thin stuff, I don't know the first thing about stick welding thing stuff, sorry.

No worries, I tried and burned through a bunch of times so I busted out the flux core welder. After I got it dialed in, things went better.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

File under: decisions I'll regret later



In blue, bench mount, off brand Chinese version of what appears to be the global standard for eyeball-grade bender. If another manual design exists I don't know about it. The guy I know has the harbor freight version and stores it outside, rusting away and he makes great bends with it. I oiled all my dies and plan on storing them inside in a box. I guess true pipe benders exist too but I primarily plan on bending almost exclusively 1/2 thin wall square tubing mild steel with it and everyone has great success with these for that specific task

In black, Chinese knockoff, with deeper throat, of the Eastwood vice mount "elite mini English wheel". Eastwood only makes it in a 8" throat, this knockoff comes in a 15" throat version for less than what Eastwood charges for their 8" model. The biggest panel I plan on doing is like, 14" x 24" at the absolute maximum. Construction is two pieces of 1/4" steel plate, separated by 4cm heavy duty aluminum, uh extruded T track looking stuff. The anvils (rolling wheels, the precision part that actually matters) are probably garbage but I can buy official Eastwood ones for $15 a pop. Surface finish looks adequate for my personal projects at this time

Anyways ttyl I'm off to shape ruin $200 worth of sheet metal and 1/2" square tubing

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I've been turning some brass and running into some issues. It's screeching and spraying chips everywhere, which is my usual experience with it. More worryingly, when running a form tool or parting it's been what I can only describe as 'grabby', trying to yank the tool out of its holder it feels and diving into the material, even with a very light infeed. I know my lathe is a wet noodle, but this feels weird even for it, no chatter, an excellent surface finish, and then, blam, it does that, and I can't figure out why as there does seem to be a discernible pattern to it.

mjan
Jan 30, 2007

Just Winging It posted:

I've been turning some brass and running into some issues. It's screeching and spraying chips everywhere, which is my usual experience with it. More worryingly, when running a form tool or parting it's been what I can only describe as 'grabby', trying to yank the tool out of its holder it feels and diving into the material, even with a very light infeed. I know my lathe is a wet noodle, but this feels weird even for it, no chatter, an excellent surface finish, and then, blam, it does that, and I can't figure out why as there does seem to be a discernible pattern to it.

Possibly a dumb question, but is it a machinable brass alloy? IIRC, there are a number of different brass grades, and only some of them are suitable for machining (due to lead content, I think).

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
It's Ms58/CW614/CuZn39Pb3 brass, an alloy with very good machining properties. Which it certainly has, it's turning like butter, until it suddenly isn't, that's what's stumping me.

Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Sep 29, 2023

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Just Winging It posted:

I've been turning some brass and running into some issues. It's screeching and spraying chips everywhere, which is my usual experience with it. More worryingly, when running a form tool or parting it's been what I can only describe as 'grabby', trying to yank the tool out of its holder it feels and diving into the material, even with a very light infeed. I know my lathe is a wet noodle, but this feels weird even for it, no chatter, an excellent surface finish, and then, blam, it does that, and I can't figure out why as there does seem to be a discernible pattern to it.

I've had this if your tool is not centered on the work. Especially if your slide is not square to the plane of the cut, then you start out on the center and as you traverse closer your tool is now above center or below center. On one hand the work dives above the tool and on the other it wants to ride up onto it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Yooper posted:

I've had this if your tool is not centered on the work. Especially if your slide is not square to the plane of the cut, then you start out on the center and as you traverse closer your tool is now above center or below center. On one hand the work dives above the tool and on the other it wants to ride up onto it.
I had this exact problem on my wood copy-lathe last week and it drove me crazy until I figured out what it was. It also explained why it wasn't accurately duplicating the template which had been a big :iiam: for me. Turns out reading the manual helps :derp:

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
That's something I hadn't considered. I'm guessing the lack of rake on the tools I ground for this, unlike the ones I have for steel, is bringing out this problem. I'll go and have a look when I get the chance this weekend if there's something slightly out of square going on with the slide/toolpost.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
IIRC you want a neutral/negative cutting edge for brass as its soft enough you don't need a positive edge to get it to cut and you want it to push out of the material vs grab.

An off-center tool will effectively increase your rake if you're below center and decrease it if you're above, exacerbating the issue.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Speaking of machining brass, how does 260 brass cut on a cnc router? I'm used to cutting 360, but I have a bunch of 0.090" 260 sheet I got for making jewelry, and I'd like do shallow engravings and maybe cut profiles for pendants.

I know it doesn't have the lead content of 360, so I don't have high hopes, but I'm curious nonetheless

Dance Officer
May 4, 2017

It would be awesome if we could dance!

Just Winging It posted:

I've been turning some brass and running into some issues. It's screeching and spraying chips everywhere, which is my usual experience with it. More worryingly, when running a form tool or parting it's been what I can only describe as 'grabby', trying to yank the tool out of its holder it feels and diving into the material, even with a very light infeed. I know my lathe is a wet noodle, but this feels weird even for it, no chatter, an excellent surface finish, and then, blam, it does that, and I can't figure out why as there does seem to be a discernible pattern to it.

My experience with machining brass is that chips flying everywhere is just what brass does. Screeching also happens when you drill it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
It does fly everywhere and it gets stuck on all kinds of surfaces. It's easy to machine but it's not that much fun anymore because of all the cleanup. I still have brass shavings all over despite turning it last spring.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
How can I put a bend in some 1/8" or 3/16" diamond plate without a brake? Try and heat it with the torch, score a line with the cutoff wheel and run a weld bead after I get my bend, or order the fixture from Eastwood for the hydraulic press and do it in a few weeks?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

For that thick I'd just cut and weld if it's an option. Depends on how long it is though. If it's short then heat and a vise will work.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I considered that, if it was a 90 deg bend thats how I would have done it.

I posted before the coffee kicked in and should have explained what I was trying to accomplish. I need a 15-20 degree bend at the top of the ramps I half built for getting cars in a shipping container I have sitting on some blocks. In reality I have until a few hours before the first snowfall to do this but have time today.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Adam Savage has a new video up about fixing his lathe.

I will preface this by saying that I love Adam Savage. I think he's an incredible science educator, Mythbusters is one of my favorite shows of all time, he's always so cheerful and energetic and obviously loves what he's doing, and he also seems to have very little ego. He freely admits when he doesn't really know what he's doing and he keeps the mistakes in his videos and talks about why they happened.

That said...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_KF3n3oo08

(Summary since it's 45 minutes:)

- Lathe isn't cutting the proper thread according to the settings on the gearbox chart. He discovered this after cutting the same screw multiple times and finding that it didn't fit in its application, having apparently never checked the work with a thread gauge.

- He checks a couple of other threads and discovers that every thread he cuts is wrong, according to the chart settings.

- He infers that this means something inside the machine must have slipped into the wrong position and everything is offset. He then further recognizes that of the eight different controls that affect the screw-cutting, seven of them are large levers that obviously and positively lock into place, while the last is a rotary dial with ten positions, and it is possible that the dial somehow got misaligned with its internals. This is a leap, but it's a smart one and a reasonable place to start.

- He begins exhaustively checking dial settings to try to figure out what is going on. He probably could have saved time by just looking at what thread he was getting for a given configuration and comparing the intended and actual gearbox settings. But it's okay, brute force works too.

- He eventually discovers through this that the dial is 180 degrees out of alignment. Setting 0 on the dial is actually producing thread 5, 8 is producing 3, etc. Problem located! He verifies that this is the case by putting stickers over the dial numbers and demonstrating that it now cuts the correct threads. Just gotta flip the dial over!

- ...no, the dial is actually keyed and can only be installed one direction, probably to prevent this exact problem. That means that probably someone once installed something on the other end of the dial shaft, deep inside the gearbox, 180 degrees out. He doesn't want to take this apart right now. Fair enough. Just leave the stickers on it and leave it for later?

- There's a cut and he announces that actually he is going to fix it properly. Okay sweet! Gonna dig into the gearbox?

- NOPE! He's going to drill a second hole for the roll pin so that he can install the dial upside down. :shepface: By doing this he is

1) creating an ambiguity that the machine manufacturers thoughtfully designed away, causing problems for future users
2) not actually fixing the loving problem inside the machine!!

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Yes, you can often compensate for one error by adjusting some other part of the system out of spec. It's what all the previous owners of my motorcycles did and it drives me bananas. Why wouldn't he just leave the goddamn stickers on the dial and use it that way until it could be fixed correctly??

- While doing this job he fails to mark which hole is the original and which is the new one, so inevitably while reassembling the machine he runs into exactly the ambiguity that he has just created and cuts the first thread wrong again. :manning:

In the end his lathe works perfectly fine. There's probably nothing wrong with the inside other than a shaft installed upside down or whatever, so I doubt it's a ticking time bomb. It can stay this way for the next 100 years and cut threads just fine with the dial reading correctly. But it's not right.

Someone -- could have been someone in this thread, or it might have been Adam himself in another video -- once pointed that Adam comes from the TV/hollywood/special effects world where your design drivers are

- it only needs to look good on camera
- it only needs to work once
- it must be as cheap as possible
- it must happen RIGHT NOW

and that has influenced his thinking on how to approach a problem. I know that ultimately this is a pretty nitpicky little thing to get all steamed about, but it just drives me insane when people "fix" things this way instead of fixing them right. Like of course I've kludged things together before but it gnaws at me, dammit, and it bothers me until I go back and take it all apart again and do it properly. aaaaaaaaaaaagh

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 9, 2023

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Sagebrush posted:


Someone -- could have been someone in this thread, or it might have been Adam himself in another video -- once pointed that Adam comes from the TV/hollywood/special effects world where your design drivers are

- it only needs to look good on camera
- it only needs to work once
- it must be as cheap as possible
- it must happen RIGHT NOW

and that has influenced his thinking on how to approach a problem. I know that ultimately this is a pretty nitpicky little thing to get all steamed about, but it just drives me insane when people "fix" things this way instead of fixing them right. Like of course I've kludged things together before but it gnaws at me, dammit, and it bothers me until I go back and take it all apart again and do it properly. aaaaaaaaaaaagh

Did he ever get halfway serious about safety? I remember him as being very crafty and good at finding which corners to cut and making ambitious projects happen, but having absolutely piss poor safety practices. He's good at stoking enthusiasm in young crafters, but modeling bad safety practices for kids gets you written off in my book.

CBJamo
Jul 15, 2012

I know that phenomenon as "technical debt", and I hate it too.

Samuel L. Hacksaw
Mar 26, 2007

Never Stop Posting

Sagebrush posted:

- He eventually discovers through this that the dial is 180 degrees out of alignment.

I would have just re-painted the chevron on the thread indicator that was wrong.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

I also love Adam, but I saw the length of that video and knew he was going to drive me insane, and it looks like I was right.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Just Winging It posted:

Adam Savage is an amusing fellow for sure, but on some level I'm wondering whether the lifetime of prop making or if you're feeling ungenerous, bullshit artistry, where it just has to be convincing, has affected him. A plastic doodad just has to look the part on camera, but you can't bullshit spinning metal. It's just wildly irresponsible.

I dug up what I said a while ago about one of his videos, and it still applies. I could only watch a bit of this video, cringing at his explanations, clicking through it to see when he'd crack open the gearbox. Except nope, just butcher the dial instead of trying to figure out what's really wrong.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Just Winging It posted:

I dug up what I said a while ago about one of his videos, and it still applies. I could only watch a bit of this video, cringing at his explanations, clicking through it to see when he'd crack open the gearbox. Except nope, just butcher the dial instead of trying to figure out what's really wrong.

There are a lot of people giving "advice" that isn't any good but are popular because of their personality or style. This is rampant in way more than just metalworking.

One of my least favorites who's still out there is "Scotty Kilmer", who purports to be some kind of auto mechanic but routinely makes videos that get made fun of so badly that he deletes them. Some are just harmless and dumb, like the one where he show you how to mix up something to "wash" your catalytic converter and make it magically work again (fundamentally misunderstanding the multitude of the most common reasons why these things fail along with their method of operation). Some are active harmful where he demonstrates how to use compression fitting to patch up brake lines. This is 100% unsafe, and one of those pesky federal motor vehicle standard no-nos, so it's not okay even if you're in a no inspection state.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I love Adam's videos about workshop management and mostly his videos about individual unusual tools that he likes.

His videos about retrofitting or modifying stuff are atrocities that should be scrubbed from the internet.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Motronic posted:

There are a lot of people giving "advice" that isn't any good but are popular because of their personality or style. This is rampant in way more than just metalworking.

Oh I know, I see the garbage in my recommended videos from time to time. Absolutely atrocious and wrong yet has hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of views. Tiny house/"off-grid" crap that sprung up during covid lockdowns to name one particular genre.

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

Motronic posted:

There are a lot of people giving "advice" that isn't any good but are popular because of their personality or style. This is rampant in way more than just metalworking.

One of my least favorites who's still out there is "Scotty Kilmer", who purports to be some kind of auto mechanic but routinely makes videos that get made fun of so badly that he deletes them. Some are just harmless and dumb, like the one where he show you how to mix up something to "wash" your catalytic converter and make it magically work again (fundamentally misunderstanding the multitude of the most common reasons why these things fail along with their method of operation). Some are active harmful where he demonstrates how to use compression fitting to patch up brake lines. This is 100% unsafe, and one of those pesky federal motor vehicle standard no-nos, so it's not okay even if you're in a no inspection state.

hey don't forget also Scotty's nails-on-chalkboard voice and aggresive style of editing that frequently leads to jump cuts mid-sentence

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Sagebrush posted:

Adam Savage has a new video up about fixing his lathe.

I will preface this by saying that I love Adam Savage. I think he's an incredible science educator, Mythbusters is one of my favorite shows of all time, he's always so cheerful and energetic and obviously loves what he's doing, and he also seems to have very little ego. He freely admits when he doesn't really know what he's doing and he keeps the mistakes in his videos and talks about why they happened.

That said...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_KF3n3oo08

(Summary since it's 45 minutes:)

- Lathe isn't cutting the proper thread according to the settings on the gearbox chart. He discovered this after cutting the same screw multiple times and finding that it didn't fit in its application, having apparently never checked the work with a thread gauge.

- He checks a couple of other threads and discovers that every thread he cuts is wrong, according to the chart settings.

- He infers that this means something inside the machine must have slipped into the wrong position and everything is offset. He then further recognizes that of the eight different controls that affect the screw-cutting, seven of them are large levers that obviously and positively lock into place, while the last is a rotary dial with ten positions, and it is possible that the dial somehow got misaligned with its internals. This is a leap, but it's a smart one and a reasonable place to start.

- He begins exhaustively checking dial settings to try to figure out what is going on. He probably could have saved time by just looking at what thread he was getting for a given configuration and comparing the intended and actual gearbox settings. But it's okay, brute force works too.

- He eventually discovers through this that the dial is 180 degrees out of alignment. Setting 0 on the dial is actually producing thread 5, 8 is producing 3, etc. Problem located! He verifies that this is the case by putting stickers over the dial numbers and demonstrating that it now cuts the correct threads. Just gotta flip the dial over!

- ...no, the dial is actually keyed and can only be installed one direction, probably to prevent this exact problem. That means that probably someone once installed something on the other end of the dial shaft, deep inside the gearbox, 180 degrees out. He doesn't want to take this apart right now. Fair enough. Just leave the stickers on it and leave it for later?

- There's a cut and he announces that actually he is going to fix it properly. Okay sweet! Gonna dig into the gearbox?

- NOPE! He's going to drill a second hole for the roll pin so that he can install the dial upside down. :shepface: By doing this he is

1) creating an ambiguity that the machine manufacturers thoughtfully designed away, causing problems for future users
2) not actually fixing the loving problem inside the machine!!

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Yes, you can often compensate for one error by adjusting some other part of the system out of spec. It's what all the previous owners of my motorcycles did and it drives me bananas. Why wouldn't he just leave the goddamn stickers on the dial and use it that way until it could be fixed correctly??

- While doing this job he fails to mark which hole is the original and which is the new one, so inevitably while reassembling the machine he runs into exactly the ambiguity that he has just created and cuts the first thread wrong again. :manning:

In the end his lathe works perfectly fine. There's probably nothing wrong with the inside other than a shaft installed upside down or whatever, so I doubt it's a ticking time bomb. It can stay this way for the next 100 years and cut threads just fine with the dial reading correctly. But it's not right.

Someone -- could have been someone in this thread, or it might have been Adam himself in another video -- once pointed that Adam comes from the TV/hollywood/special effects world where your design drivers are

- it only needs to look good on camera
- it only needs to work once
- it must be as cheap as possible
- it must happen RIGHT NOW

and that has influenced his thinking on how to approach a problem. I know that ultimately this is a pretty nitpicky little thing to get all steamed about, but it just drives me insane when people "fix" things this way instead of fixing them right. Like of course I've kludged things together before but it gnaws at me, dammit, and it bothers me until I go back and take it all apart again and do it properly. aaaaaaaaaaaagh

I FEEL this post in my bones. I love getting to the bottom of things, shame he's trained himself not to (in this case anyway).

Unrelated, but this post coming from you makes me happy. My repair business bears your name, and it feels good to see what looks like me making a huge nerdy fuss about some guys youtube video.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Sagebrush posted:

and that has influenced his thinking on how to approach a problem. I know that ultimately this is a pretty nitpicky little thing to get all steamed about, but it just drives me insane when people "fix" things this way instead of fixing them right. Like of course I've kludged things together before but it gnaws at me, dammit, and it bothers me until I go back and take it all apart again and do it properly. aaaaaaaaaaaagh

There's my way, your way, the wrong way, and the right way. And now I guess Adam Savage's way.

I wonder if in decades prior someone replaced a gear and installed something backwards, or if it was done intentionally to allow some weird threading case? I have totally "fixed" things only to realize someone fixed the actual problem by making some weird change to a machine.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Leperflesh posted:

Thanks, wow. I'm in Concord now, getting to the crucible upon an evening is sort of a pain in the rear end for me, and my wife does ceramics and runs a ceramic studio in SF and is pretty overwhelmed with the work that involves right now. And also we're dealing with family stuff. But I know a few names here and there, she does too, including former Crucible people, we could help get the word out if you're serious about getting something going. Hit me up with a PM and we can chat.

The area around the Cru is getting worse (crime, gentrification) but better (more housing) at the same time, they may not be around in that spot forever, given all the new housing developments in the area. I'd imagine their real estate is going to be worth a lot soon and the sound of power hammers are going to come up at meetings. That drive is absolutely awful, I dont blame you. I wonder if our wives know each other, mine hasn't been too active in ceramics since 2018 or so but her net is wide!

Give Clay and Steel a shout on insta or tiktok and she'll likely hand you a hammer to swing (and shout at you to swing harder), if you're there. I am telling everyone I know to attend, maker faires are incredibly fun, there is so much happening.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I've been recommended a few Scotty Kilmer videos and glad to know my instincts were right about him. Just gave me the vibe of a guy who posts click-bait instead of useful or reliable information.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Can someone explain to me like I'm five, why I want to use a #10 drill (which is slightly larger than 1/8") for 1/8" pop rivets

I went ahead and bought some #10 bits, I'm just curious why. Even the packages of rivets say "use a slightly larger hole" or something

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Hadlock posted:

Can someone explain to me like I'm five, why I want to use a #10 drill (which is slightly larger than 1/8") for 1/8" pop rivets

I went ahead and bought some #10 bits, I'm just curious why. Even the packages of rivets say "use a slightly larger hole" or something

Rivets work by getting squished into the hole you set them into. All types use slightly different ways of accomplishing this but they all work p much the same way. The rivet is either hot worked or cold worked into a shape that tightly fits the inside of the hole.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Ok thanks. Can someone explain it to me like I'm 12 why I need a #10 #30 drill bit which is 0.1285 for a 0.125 rivet? Why does 3 thousands (and a half) of an inch matter? Seems inconsequential but it's printed right there on the box of ace hardware grade aluminum rivets so clearly it matters A Lot

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HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Hadlock posted:

Ok thanks. Can someone explain it to me like I'm 12 why I need a #10 #30 drill bit which is 0.1285 for a 0.125 rivet? Why does 3 thousands (and a half) of an inch matter? Seems inconsequential but it's printed right there on the box of ace hardware grade aluminum rivets so clearly it matters A Lot

*shrug* best guess, it permits the optimal amount of deformation to achieve maximum hold. Next best guess, it permits the maximum amount of hole placement tolerance between the two workpieces without compromising hold.

e: I had a project at my last company where I used rivnuts in 6061 L-channel, and they were finicky and depended a lot on clean holes. In holes that were cut oversized or with bad geometry, the rivnuts tended to loosen and spin in place.

HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Oct 11, 2023

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