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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

kimbo305 posted:

Specialized has a bar that has 15mm of rise if stem aesthetics bother you a lot

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/hover-expert-alloy-handlebars--15mm-rise/p/156001

There’s also steerer extenders, though I can’t recommend those for serious riding. That and they don’t extend just a little bit like 40mm.

Velobike makes a quality one with choices between 10 and 18mm.

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Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

The Fool posted:

I need to raise my bars, at least 20mm maybe as much as 40mm

I have this bike: https://bikes.com/products/solo-c50-23?variant=43474991120619

as far as I can tell, the stem is already at the top of the steerer tube, and the tube is carbon

what are my options?

Completely dumb obvious question but have you already flipped the stem or is it angled downward like in the photos on that website

The Fool
Oct 16, 2003


Dog Case posted:

Completely dumb obvious question but have you already flipped the stem or is it angled downward like in the photos on that website

lmao no

According to a calculator I found that should make a 16mm difference so I'm going to go get some torque wrenches and try it before buying a new stem

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

CopperHound posted:

I simply live with my mistake and feel shame every time I see it. Ask me about my wheels with the spokes crossing over the valve stem.

Well the universe has prevented me from just living with it as the rear wheel is fine but the front deflated overnight anyway. Flipped the tire this afternoon, pumped it up and there was sealant pissing out of where the valve exits the rim. Pulled the tire off again, pulled the valve out, seems like I might have damaged the conical rubber seal on the valve from tightening it too much (there's a cut where it jammed into the valve hole in the rim).

I rotated it 90 degrees, re-assembled everything and it's not gushing now but there still sounds like a slow leak that I can't find on the opposite side of the rim. When I had a look at the rim tape there were one or two spots that looked like they could cause issues too, like a slight tear in one spot under where the tire bead would sit. So I'm seeing if the tire goes down again overnight but I'm probably going to get a new valve and more rim tape on the weekend even if it does stay inflated as I don't trust it anymore.

Edit: Also I swear to god I become the joker every time I look at the website of one of the local bike store chains, they have a bunch of shop locations but it seems like 99.99% of stuff they have on their website is only available mail-order from their warehouse and they only seem to sell whole bikes and clothes in their shops. Sometimes you just want to go to a fkn shop and get something now, even if that means paying more for it, but you don't even have that choice any more it seems.

Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Sep 28, 2023

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Finally got that bloody wheel to seal up. Tried just replacing the valve first and it was still pissing sealant out, not sure exactly where it was leaking from but once it gets into the inside of the rim it can come out from basically anywhere. Eventually replaced the rim tape and that seems to have done the trick, also deburred the valve hole at the same time because it was pretty sharp which I think is how the first valve seal got cut up.

As a side note I've not tried to use Stans rim tape before and at first it would absolutely not stick to the rim, even though I'd cleaned it thoroughly with IPA. I eventually had to use a heat gun to heat the tape and the rim up a bit first and that got it to work, but it's about 11 degrees Celsius here which is hardly abnormally cold. Even so I noticed that as everything cooled down while I was taping I started to get more bubbles etc. really I think I should have done the whole job in a heated room or spent a lot more time pre-heating the rim and tape, which is kinda poo poo.

Either way hope it seals this time, gave it two wraps of the tape just to be sure.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
Speaking of tubeless, I was able to get hold of orange seal for not insane money, so can stop using the terrible sealant I have already Stan's :ssh:

Am I ok just dumping the orange seal in there with the old sealant or do I need to clean it out?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You’re on your own with most sealant mixtures, but Stan’s and Orange Seal happen to be compatible.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

If it is latex based, the dregs of whatever bottles I find will end up in my tires. People go overboard with the FUD

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




I got a read of the official 'how to inspect a shimano death crank' dealers/mechanics guide yesterday

I'm sure someone will put it on the internet soon enough, but it's basically just a visual check of a few highlighted spots after disassembling and cleaning

There's no mechanical testing involved

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Skarsnik posted:

I got a read of the official 'how to inspect a shimano death crank' dealers/mechanics guide yesterday

I'm sure someone will put it on the internet soon enough, but it's basically just a visual check of a few highlighted spots after disassembling and cleaning

There's no mechanical testing involved

https://youtu.be/HZLc3Ml4TXQ?si=wFk__-q7oY68efd4

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass
I am off to the National Road Bike timetrial championship in a couple of hours. We are taking part in the tandem event for shits and giggles. I will just be happy to get round.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!





There we go then

Had a quick look over both my pairs last night and guess I'll be getting a new crankset :confuoot:

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
Gonna save everyone some time from my stupidity: don't bother trying to take the clipping mechanism of XTR pedals (or any SPD 's I guess) apart, even if the dirt is annoying, because they are a massive pain in the arse to put back together.

I almost managed to get them in place levering the mechanism open with a 6mm hex and my entire body but the thing snapped shut as I was screwing it in. This is in the lowest tension setting ofc lol

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
Does the clip hold itself together enough that you can assemble it around a shoe to use it as a vise/handle?

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
Having just whined a load I managed to do it :v:

I braced the L of the hex on the floor with my foot then used my body to pry the mechanism open enough to push the plate in.

I don't think you could use a shoe to do it if both plates are off because you need the plate to properly clip in, and not sure there's enough contact otherwise.

I'm just gonna get a vice to avoid similar situations in future, like this guy used: https://youtu.be/8b_RvW9jblM?si=c0X_OAlf_KMFr07S
(I only found this video after I took them apart)

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry dumb question but whether or not a rear hub is 'boost' shouldn't change anything about the freehub right? Freehubs would be interchangeable between the same hub in boost and non-boost form? Thanks.

Lord Rupert
Dec 28, 2007

Neither seen, nor heard
Should be yeah, unless the interface between the hub and free hub is different between boost and non-boost models.

Weembles
Apr 19, 2004

I had a fall today and now for some reason my rear hydraulic brake is either 100% on or 100% off. A little squeeze is enough to lock up the brake and I need to pull the lever out manually even though the spring in the lever still feels like it's there.

Anyone seen something like this before or have an idea for how to debug it?

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Weembles posted:

I had a fall today and now for some reason my rear hydraulic brake is either 100% on or 100% off. A little squeeze is enough to lock up the brake and I need to pull the lever out manually even though the spring in the lever still feels like it's there.

Anyone seen something like this before or have an idea for how to debug it?

I wonder if the pistons in the brake caliper are jammed/stuck somehow? That might cause the brakes to be hard to modulate and slow to return. Or maybe the hydraulic hose has been bent and crimped partially closed, might also explain poor modulation and slow release of the brakes.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Hi bike repair thread, I recently swapped out the tires on my bike and now when I'm riding it I get random snap-crackle-pops through the drivetrain and it's really annoying, is the chain too tight or something?

For reference it's a single speed Surly 1x1

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Sounds possible. Chainrings, especially cheaper ones, aren’t perfectly round. Spin the crank around and see how tight it gets at various points in the rotation. You want a little slack in the chain throughout the rotation.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
Is it too tight? You should be able to move it easily up and down a bit.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Also is the wheel in straight

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

this is obv but make sure theres a tiny bit of sag in the chain, not a lot but a little. if its on too tight you can push the wheel forward in the drop out a smidge

mystes
May 31, 2006

A MIRACLE posted:

this is obv but make sure theres a tiny bit of sag in the chain, not a lot but a little. if its on too tight you can push the wheel forward in the drop out a smidge
Yeah if it's single speed and has adjustable dropouts I'm betting on this

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Seems like there's enough slack in the chain and the wheel is straight so this is kinda weird.

I also put new pedals on, could it be the pedals?

Wifi Toilet
Oct 1, 2004

Toilet Rascal

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Hi bike repair thread, I recently swapped out the tires on my bike and now when I'm riding it I get random snap-crackle-pops through the drivetrain and it's really annoying, is the chain too tight or something?

For reference it's a single speed Surly 1x1

Check spoke tension? New tires might be constricting the rims a bit more decreasing tension on the spokes?

Baconroll
Feb 6, 2009
Newb question - I've just changed a tyre for the first time. I got the inner tube in fine, and using the cable-tie trick I managed to get the tight wire bead over the rim.

There was about 12 inches where the bead wasn't seating properly and it was near the center of the rim rather than the edge where it needed to seat. I did try massaging it but really didn't want to move.

So I slowly pumped up the tyre and at 30 psi there was a TWANG noise and it the bead seated properly. The tyre is 30-60 PSI rated.

Is this normal/ok ?

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
Sometimes beads can seat pretty violently so don't let that worry you as long as you made sure there weren't any spots where the tube got stuck between the tire and rim. The noise could have also been from your spokes, go around the wheel squeezing pairs of spokes near where they cross to see if any feel super loose or super tight compared to the others

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
yeah the twang is just the spokes reverberating, it's fine

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Baconroll posted:

Newb question - I've just changed a tyre for the first time. I got the inner tube in fine, and using the cable-tie trick I managed to get the tight wire bead over the rim.

There was about 12 inches where the bead wasn't seating properly and it was near the center of the rim rather than the edge where it needed to seat. I did try massaging it but really didn't want to move.

So I slowly pumped up the tyre and at 30 psi there was a TWANG noise and it the bead seated properly. The tyre is 30-60 PSI rated.

Is this normal/ok ?

Yeah this is normal. The less aggressive tires without insane DH casings are a lot easier to mount btw.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
I've got an old steel road bike that's got a 7 speed freewheel on it, but the smallest cog and chain is a bit tight in the rear dropout and the hub has a spacer in there to turn a 126mm into ~128mm to make a bit of room. I was thinking about getting a used 6 speed off ebay so that the chain doesn't get caught in there while shifting off the smallest cog. This happens in the stand, but I think while I'm actually pedaling it just gets yanked through, possibly scratching the dropout a bit, though I can't see any actual damage down there yet.

Additionally, one of the rear wheels I built for back there needed to be dished a bit extra to that side and I'm a little worried the spokes are at kind of the edge of acceptable tightness to get the wheel centered. I'm not sure if this is something I really need to worry about though.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
What size is that small cog? Could you get a different 7 spd freewheel with a smaller cog, and would that get you more clearance?

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
Before I take my bike to a shop to get it checked what do people here think about the small cuts/voids in the fork of my Aspero:



I circled the biggest one, but there's also one on the upper side near the screw for the flip chip thing.
I'm pretty sure it's just where the resin had a small void and not a sign of progressive damage but don't really know. The other side of the fork is fine.

There's also some scoring from the hub flanges, so will sand those down a bit to remove any sharp edges.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

I wouldn't personally stress those at all but hell if the bikes under warranty, make the shop decide that instead of the internet. That peace of mind is part of the point of shelling out for such a spendy bike, right?

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

kimbo305 posted:

What size is that small cog? Could you get a different 7 spd freewheel with a smaller cog, and would that get you more clearance?

That's a thought. The smallest is 13, but I'm hoping to keep the same style and it doesn't look like Sachs made any freewheels with 12t. Is there another brand to look for that did/does make freewheels with a cog that small?

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

bicievino posted:

I wouldn't personally stress those at all but hell if the bikes under warranty, make the shop decide that instead of the internet. That peace of mind is part of the point of shelling out for such a spendy bike, right?

Yeah good point, will just take it to the shop this weekend to get it checked out

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Mauser posted:

That's a thought. The smallest is 13, but I'm hoping to keep the same style and it doesn't look like Sachs made any freewheels with 12t. Is there another brand to look for that did/does make freewheels with a cog that small?

What’s the big cog? Does 11-28 work?

https://www.amazon.com/DRIFT-MANIAC-Freewheel-11-28T-11-34T/dp/B09WBWPNC6

The rise of cheap e-bikes has perhaps reinvigorated the 7-spd freewheel market.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
bike shop dude said im missing a part that, he showed me on a bike they have there and its just like a rubber casing that goes around the wire right before it connects to the hub (alfine 8 hub) i don't understand this .. i never got this part and it wasn't in the alfine 8 small parts kit i had to buy
i double checked what comes in the small parts kit and that type of part is not on there

haven't been quoted yet since i just took it in but im getting closer :D ..hopefully they figure out that piece isn't needed.. or find one

thinking about it now, i guess it is needed so the wire doesn't fray from sliding back n forth on the metal thing that holds it.. guess ill leave it to them to find one

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Oct 20, 2023

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Turmoilx posted:

bike shop dude said im missing a part that, he showed me on a bike they have there and its just like a rubber casing that goes around the wire right before it connects to the hub (alfine 8 hub) i don't understand this .. i never got this part and it wasn't in the alfine 8 small parts kit i had to buy
i double checked what comes in the small parts kit and that type of part is not on there

haven't been quoted yet since i just took it in but im getting closer :D ..hopefully they figure out that piece isn't needed.. or find one

thinking about it now, i guess it is needed so the wire doesn't fray from sliding back n forth on the metal thing that holds it.. guess ill leave it to them to find one

Is this an ebike thing because I have no idea what you're referring to?

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