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litany of gulps
Jun 11, 2001

Fun Shoe

Bottom Liner posted:

You can get upwards of 1500 shots on an R7 on one battery (burst high FPS, but still). There's a lot of little tricks that can get you 30-50% more shots per battery on these. The main thing is that the EVF uses significantly more battery than the LCD which is counterintuitive. Also, high refresh rate on the LCD sucks battery.

Right, my experience with the R5 has been that it has enough battery life to never be an issue. It uses the same battery as the R7. But the RP and R8 use a smaller battery, and I have consistently found that that particular battery just doesn't quite last long enough. If I'm taking pictures at a soccer game or a dance or wildlife on a hike, the larger battery will always finish out the event or whatever with some juice to spare. The smaller battery always runs out just before the thing ends or I'm ready to quit.

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Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna

litany of gulps posted:

Right, my experience with the R5 has been that it has enough battery life to never be an issue. It uses the same battery as the R7. But the RP and R8 use a smaller battery, and I have consistently found that that particular battery just doesn't quite last long enough. If I'm taking pictures at a soccer game or a dance or wildlife on a hike, the larger battery will always finish out the event or whatever with some juice to spare. The smaller battery always runs out just before the thing ends or I'm ready to quit.

Yeah, wasn't trying to say otherwise, just making them aware that there's a lot of ways to squeeze out comparable battery life to DSLRs with similar battery sizes. It's come a long ways from the early mirrorless or DSLR live view days.

Grand Fromage
Jan 30, 2006

L-l-look at you bar-bartender, a-a pa-pathetic creature of meat and bone, un-underestimating my l-l-liver's ability to metab-meTABolize t-toxins. How can you p-poison a perfect, immortal alcohOLIC?


yoohoo posted:

That certainly makes the R8 a lot more enticing. Does Canon still offer a discount for trading in your old camera like they used to?

They do unless it was eliminated recently, I used it last November (before immediately ditching it for Fuji). You don't have to send the old camera in or anything, just give the serial number and you get a discount.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
I’ll give them a call on Monday, I’ve been reading that some people have had luck getting 20% off new, while others were only offered 10% off a refurb.

Appreciate all the advice - I think I’m going to pick up an R8. It seems to be the right camera for my purposes. I’ll probably end up selling my cheaper lenses and see about one of the nicer RF lenses. What is money anyways.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
You'll love it. The jump from mid gen DSLR to modern mirrorless is really unbelievable. The RF lens line is equally great.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
I picked up an R8 and a used 24-105L from a local shop on Monday. I cannot get enough of this camera, it is lightyears better than the the T2i. It is just insanely impressive and I haven’t felt this kind of joy shooting since I first got interested in photography when I was like 15. Thanks everyone for letting me poo poo this thread up for a few days.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
First full frame too? Yeah, you're going to have a blast. :blastu:

Dr.Smasher
Nov 27, 2002

Cyberpunk 1987

yoohoo posted:

I picked up an R8 and a used 24-105L from a local shop on Monday. I cannot get enough of this camera, it is lightyears better than the the T2i. It is just insanely impressive and I haven’t felt this kind of joy shooting since I first got interested in photography when I was like 15. Thanks everyone for letting me poo poo this thread up for a few days.

I went from a T6i to an M50 Mk2 and that has felt like going from a base Ford Escort to a new Ford Mustang. I can't imagine the leap from a T2i to an R8. jesus christ.

All being said, I really like my M50 (aside from the grippy texture around the Menu and Play button coming off, which is a common problem on that body). It can snap some good shots!

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Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry

BeastOfExmoor posted:

You have a few options:

To me it really depends on what kind of stuff you like to shoot, but if I wasn't so focused on wildlife and birds I'd move to full-frame RF.

was coming to find this thread after a long time away from the hobby, thank you for this pretty comprehensive solution before I even asked!

I'm taking a once in a lifetime trip to south africa/botswana and am going to pick up another body to complement my 50D so I can both not have to swap lenses, and so my sister can shoot too. When not on fabulous trips I'm usually shooting macro photos and my lens collection is pretty old but still functional:

17-50 Tamron DXii
Sigma 30/1.4
Canon 100mm Macro non-L
70-300L

Again I'm a decade out of serious hobby indulgence and I"m pretty surprised by how cheaply I can get a 5D MarkX or the 7D Mark II. The weight savings of the mirrorless thing is compelling but... eah. money.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
Couple months in with the canon r7 as mainly a video camera and second body for my r6 and I'm really loving it. The sigma 18-35 1.8 is a killer lens, and paired with the 70-200 2.8 on the r6 I have basically 24-200 range at 1.8-2.8 at hand which has been amazing for wedding and concert gigs. Throwing the 200 on it for extra reach has also been more useful than I imagined, and I could definitely see getting a 400-600 for even more reach on it. No real complaints other than the ibis not working with the sigma (it introduces a ton of shake and wobble, apparently firmware fixable with sigmas dock).










ThePopeOfFun
Feb 15, 2010

Forgot there was a Canon thread! A sign I need to post in the Dorkroom more. I have received a 5DmkII from a friend. Quite the upgrade from a T2i. I'm looking for some budget-ish glass I can take to the woods to document the various flora and fungi I come across. The EF 50mm f1.8 isn't quite up to the task for smaller (< 2") subjects. I have seen the 50mm f2.5 Macro praised for filling the gap for folks who don't want to go full macro, but I haven't bought glass in years and am very out of date.

ThePopeOfFun fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Sep 4, 2023

echinopsis
Apr 13, 2004

by Fluffdaddy

Bottom Liner posted:

Couple months in with the canon r7 as mainly a video camera and second body for my r6 and I'm really loving it. The sigma 18-35 1.8 is a killer lens, and paired with the 70-200 2.8 on the r6 I have basically 24-200 range at 1.8-2.8 at hand which has been amazing for wedding and concert gigs. Throwing the 200 on it for extra reach has also been more useful than I imagined, and I could definitely see getting a 400-600 for even more reach on it. No real complaints other than the ibis not working with the sigma (it introduces a ton of shake and wobble, apparently firmware fixable with sigmas dock).












good poo poo op

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Tell me thread, do I actually want an R10?

I currently have an 80D which I've been using for a few months and while I'm happy with it most of the time, I am tempted by the sorcery of all the 'detection' AF modes and 15fps drive. I like to shoot birds, landscapes and occasionally entry-level motorsports for my friends, so the upgrades could actually be quite useful for me. What I'm most worried about is switching to an EVF, and secondarily the battery life though I guess I can just get spares. I've played with the R10 a few times in showrooms and while the size and lack of buttons put me off at first, it's beginning to grow on me.

For reference, I'd be buying body only and adapting my EF lenses (24mm STM, 50mm STM, 15-85mm USM, Sigma 100-400 C) and selling off my 80D to offset some of the cost. I've looked at the R7 as well, but I can't quite justify the extra cost and I'm not too bothered about the 2nd card slot or 32~MP as features.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
If you shoot moving subjects like birds and races, the mirrorless line is a huge jump in auto focus capabilities. It feels like cheating. The R10 does have people/animals/vehicles for tracking as well.

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

I was so "scared" of the battery life of my R6 when I took it to Norway for aurora photos that I brought two extra batteries and two power banks just in case.

I didn't even use half a battery the entire 5 days.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

The R10 is a extremely good body, and with the way canon is dividing up their body line the differences from the R7 are very nitpicky. I feel like they've overdone it with their options but they get to make the call, not me.

The R7 has 8 more MP, one more stop of dynamic range, a faster mechanical shutter, IBIS, a bigger buffer, and a beefier battery.

If none of that matters to you the R10 is the superior choice because you save a wad of cash.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



ThePopeOfFun posted:

Forgot there was a Canon thread! A sign I need to post in the Dorkroom more. I have received a 5DmkII from a friend. Quite the upgrade from a T2i. I'm looking for some budget-ish glass I can take to the woods to document the various flora and fungi I come across. The EF 50mm f1.8 isn't quite up to the task for smaller (< 2") subjects. I have seen the 50mm f2.5 Macro praised for filling the gap for folks who don't want to go full macro, but I haven't bought glass in years and am very out of date.

Can you rent glass? Rent the Canon 100mm 2.8L
It's my favorite portrait and macro lens, we'll worth the investment.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Bottom Liner posted:

If you shoot moving subjects like birds and races, the mirrorless line is a huge jump in auto focus capabilities. It feels like cheating.

That's what I'm hoping for! I've mostly got the 80D down but it can still take some persuasion to find and stay on the right target.


gschmidl posted:

I was so "scared" of the battery life of my R6 when I took it to Norway for aurora photos that I brought two extra batteries and two power banks just in case.

I didn't even use half a battery the entire 5 days.

The official shot ratings on the mirrorless models feel ridiculously low so it's nice to hear that they can last much longer in real life.


xzzy posted:

The R10 is a extremely good body, and with the way canon is dividing up their body line the differences from the R7 are very nitpicky. I feel like they've overdone it with their options but they get to make the call, not me.

The R7 has 8 more MP, one more stop of dynamic range, a faster mechanical shutter, IBIS, a bigger buffer, and a beefier battery.

If none of that matters to you the R10 is the superior choice because you save a wad of cash.

As far as the sensor/image output of the 80D goes, I'm very much satisfied so if I could get that same kind of sensor in a body that can push a little further on burst and AF, that would be fantastic and that sounds like what the R10 is. The beefier battery is a little tempting but I'm sure I could live with the R10 with an extra battery or two.

Thanks thread, looks like I've made up my mind. Now to see how my September bonus shapes up... :sweatdrop:

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

September bonus came in good, I bought the R7 and I bloody love it.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

RillAkBea posted:

September bonus came in good, I bought the R7 and I bloody love it.

I got one for my wife because she's gotten interested in photography and it'd be a good backup for me. Love the size of it but I despise where they put the scroll wheel on the back. I don't know why they have to reinvent the controls for every single camera but putting the wheel where it is on the R5 would have been way more comfortable. I do love where they put the power switch though, way better than the R5. And thank god the 'rate' button is gone. Most useless button in Canon history.

I have noticed the shutter is way noisier than the R5. It sounds like someone digging around for a pen.

That said it's the best prosumer crop camera I've ever held. It's light, the subject tracking is a huge improvement, and it uses the same lenses.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
Probably better for the canon thread but while we’re on them here, what are folks using the RF control ring for? I only use it for exposure comp in concerts where lighting can change metering so drastically really quickly, so combined with exposure preview it can be useful for dialing in the shot (especially forcing silhouettes against strong backlight). But I am curious of other ideas for using it.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

This is the canon thread though. :v:

The control ring is a pretty dumb feature but I put picture style on it so I can switch between color and B&W without menu diving. It's not as slick as I'd like it (no way to delete all the standard color profiles) but I guess it works.

The worst part is the control ring is in a different spot for every lens so muscle memory is not possible. The 24-105 has it near the front element. The 100-500 puts it near the body mount. :iiam:

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna

xzzy posted:


The worst part is the control ring is in a different spot for every lens so muscle memory is not possible.

This is pretty awful yeah. Still easier for me than having completely different dial layouts on my bodies.

I almost exclusively use the three custom modes these days with the following setups on both bodies:

C1 - Aperture priority, defaults to wide open on lens. low-high speed release, eval metering. Shutter button does zone-eye/object tracking, back button does point focus. This is what I use for wedding days where I may need to go between people and details constantly.

C2 - Shutter Priority, defaults to 1/250, high speed release, spot metering. Shutter button for all focusing. This is my concert setup where I run and gun 2 bodies a lot including an awkward left hand under the camera shooting wide angles while also holding the 70-200 at eye level in the right hand.

C3 - Landscapes - Backbutton point focus, manual exposure for everything. Single shot release. Pretty simple.

Don't know why I thought this was the general gear thread :lol:

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Bottom Liner posted:

It feels like cheating.

I went out on my break today with my 100-400 to catch some birbs and planes, and yep, this is definitely cheating. I love it!


xzzy posted:

I got one for my wife because she's gotten interested in photography and it'd be a good backup for me. Love the size of it but I despise where they put the scroll wheel on the back. I don't know why they have to reinvent the controls for every single camera but putting the wheel where it is on the R5 would have been way more comfortable. I do love where they put the power switch though, way better than the R5. And thank god the 'rate' button is gone. Most useless button in Canon history.

I have noticed the shutter is way noisier than the R5. It sounds like someone digging around for a pen.

That said it's the best prosumer crop camera I've ever held. It's light, the subject tracking is a huge improvement, and it uses the same lenses.

I was weirded out by the scroll wheel position at first, but the more I use it, the more I like it! And yeah, it's not the most pleasant sounding shutter. I sorta miss the gentle thwack of the 80D but at least it's a lot quieter.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

And today I took the R7 out for a proper run around down by the river and now it's pissing me off.

I got some absolutely fantastic pictures... of the sand behind the birds I was trying to photograph. :argh:




This is pretty ridiculous. These kind of shots should be super easy?

litany of gulps
Jun 11, 2001

Fun Shoe

RillAkBea posted:

This is pretty ridiculous. These kind of shots should be super easy?

They should be regardless of your autofocus settings, but the autofocus can get pretty specific. I’m not sure if the menus are the same on the R7 as my R5, but open your menu, then go to AF 1. There should be a toggle that tells your autofocus to focus on animals.

BetterLekNextTime
Jul 22, 2008

It's all a matter of perspective...
Grimey Drawer

litany of gulps posted:

They should be regardless of your autofocus settings, but the autofocus can get pretty specific. I’m not sure if the menus are the same on the R7 as my R5, but open your menu, then go to AF 1. There should be a toggle that tells your autofocus to focus on animals.

Kind of disagree that this is necessarily an "easy" situation. I mean, it's better than a bird in the middle of a bush but you have a somewhat complex background that's not super separated from the subject.
There's a non-zero chance that the AF could grab sand instead of a pencil-necked bird head. The wagtail is so small in frame that there's a reasonable chance it won't get identified as a subject. Not sure what your settings are but for something like this you probably need to use a small cluster of points rather than a big zone, and then watch the AF squares that light up to make sure that it's grabbing the right thing and not some high contrast dirt in the background.

Re: AF settings-- That may be for eye detection? These birds may be too far away for that to work.

The more you shoot with your camera the more you'll recognize when it will work perfectly and when it won't. And there's a reason why we shoot a bazillion photos on an outing...

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Sorry, I should have mentioned. The camera appeared to have the birds properly locked on, sometimes even on the eyes, but the actual focus was behind or sometimes in front.

I didn't even notice most of the focus issues until I went back to check the photos later. Hence the frustration.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
What lens?

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Sigma 100-400mm Contemporary

I know the 150-600 had issues but I was lead to believe 100-400 should work fine.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
What adapter as well? Long lenses more often have back and front focus issues, especially third party, and especially especially on an RF adapter.

I would do some manual focus testing with focus peaking on at 10x zoom and check to make sure you’re not having front and back focus problems with that setup.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Bottom Liner posted:

What adapter as well? Long lenses more often have back and front focus issues, especially third party, and especially especially on an RF adapter.

I would do some manual focus testing with focus peaking on at 10x zoom and check to make sure you’re not having front and back focus problems with that setup.
It's the genuine Canon adapter, so no problems there.

I'll have to try the manual focus testing tomorrow. I hope you're on the money, because I'm literally losing sleep over this darn camera now.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
Can that sigma be updated with the sigma dock? I know they have some weird things with the canon ref adapter like IBIS not working and making the image super wobbly unless you update the lenses that have the problem.

When you test, shoot a comparison shot with single point focus on the same thing so you can A/B it as well and see if they give the same result. Try it at a bunch of focal lengths too, some big zooms can perform better or worse at certain lengths.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

If you can't fix it I do know some wildlife photographers do dual back button focusing. One for AI animal detection and the other for center point focus when the detection tosses its cookies. Might be a useful workaround until you find the real solution.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

It's probably not an issue with the lens. I've had similar problems with the RF 100-400 and the RF 70-200 2.8

Duade Paton has done a few videos on the subject including this one where he got a response from Canon, demonstrates the issue with the RF 100-500, and goes over a few possibly helpful settings:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsmY4f1J0t8

Personally I have the back AF button set to single point/single shot focus and the DOF button on the front to do full frame eye detection and usually tapping one of those or just slightly moving the camera to mix up the autofocus points will do the trick. Rarely if it's off by a lot it will just refuse to try and refocus the subject and I have to manually get the subject into focus, and then it will stay locked on

I also wonder if turning off eye detection might help in your particular situation as it may have a tendency to see the small black rocks in the background as eyes

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
That’s not exactly a mystery as to what’s causing the YouTubers issue, he’s shooting in servo focus tracking at a long focal length/shallow dof and shooting high burst. Of course he’s going to get focus shifts because the camera and lens are constantly hunting focus while he’s shooting in burst. For that kind of shooting, eye/subject tracking focus on a back button and shutter only for the shutter release will serve you better. Hold the back button when your subject moves, but otherwise focus, let go, release shutter.

I took OPs issue as the focus missing all the shots but the camera saying it had the subject locked, which is different than it shifting between shots or registering a rock in the background as an eye. I’ve never had my 70-200 back or front focus while showing it had the focus point I wanted.

Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Oct 2, 2023

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

I have had at least a few completely missed shots where the R7 + RF 70-200 2.8 (and RF 100-400) focused on the background behind the subject when a) subject detection put a square directly over the blurry subject I was pointing at, servo marked it as locked, and it started taking shots as if it were in focus and then b) pressing back button single shot focus where the point displayed on the screen was completely inside of the blurry subject yet the camera continued to focus on the background and act as though it had autofocused successfully

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Fellatio del Toro posted:

I have had at least a few completely missed shots where the R7 + RF 70-200 2.8 (and RF 100-400) focused on the background behind the subject when a) subject detection put a square directly over the blurry subject I was pointing at, servo marked it as locked, and it started taking shots as if it were in focus and then b) pressing back button single shot focus where the point displayed on the screen was completely inside of the blurry subject yet the camera continued to focus on the background and act as though it had autofocused successfully

Yes, this is exactly what it's doing! Nice to know it's not my lens and it's not me going crazy.

I played around with it more today and setting to single point/single shot does help a lot. It's a shame that the detection/tracking is so unreliable seeing as that's the entire reason I bought it, but oh well, it's a learning curve I guess?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

RillAkBea posted:

Yes, this is exactly what it's doing! Nice to know it's not my lens and it's not me going crazy.

I played around with it more today and setting to single point/single shot does help a lot. It's a shame that the detection/tracking is so unreliable seeing as that's the entire reason I bought it, but oh well, it's a learning curve I guess?

I get this as well occasionally with my R5 + EF500 f/4 II + 1.4x III

Like the cameras is saying its locked and I can see it actually is not.

What I find is that like everything with wildlife is when you are close enough and the light is good for the shot to be decent the tracking eye detect AF works reliably most of the times when it seems to fail is when the shot would be too far and / or the light not good you know the situation you are out and you see something, you know really it's too far and / or the light is bad but you take an id shot, focus on it anyway just in case it starts doing something/getting closer etc.

So I do find that when I need it most is when the shot would be a keeper and that's when it works best, so it doesn't let me down at the crunch.

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Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

RillAkBea posted:

Yes, this is exactly what it's doing! Nice to know it's not my lens and it's not me going crazy.

I played around with it more today and setting to single point/single shot does help a lot. It's a shame that the detection/tracking is so unreliable seeing as that's the entire reason I bought it, but oh well, it's a learning curve I guess?

I'll say that completely whiffing a shot has been fairly rare, with focus pulsing being a bit less so. Can't speak from experience but what I've seen online is that these issues are more prevalent on third party EF-adapted lenses

Someone can correct me here, but my understanding is that it's still using discrete autofocus points and subject detection is really just selecting which points to use. It seems to me like sometimes it's selecting enough points that are just around the subject that when the background comes into focus it decides "this is good enough that it's not worth hunting around more". Usually if I just quickly pick a point the same distance as the subject (or manually refocus) it will then see the subject in focus and correctly track it

Single point/single shot back button focus is definitely a lot more consistent and preferable if the subject isn't moving though

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