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Lumpy posted:I already told you: you do it wrong 57 times, then it clicks and it's easy from then on out. This is so true. I can do NMM faster than I can do nice looking metal now, but the first ohhh.... hundred times were brutal. Priming a bunch of leftover sword arms and practicing on them was really helpful. Also learning that adding scratches to metal hides mistakes and makes everything look so much better.
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Oct 2, 2023 21:26
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Bo-Pepper posted:Pulled out an old bag of minis lurking in a closet. Thinking of painting some and stripped them. Tons of old Ral Partha and Grenadiers from the 70s and 80s! Holy poo poo, that's ral parthas not-Thrud https://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Thrud_-_Collectors_Guide "Zoid, the Pinhead Barbarian"
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Oct 2, 2023 22:33
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Now I understand why the head of the space marine on the cover of the Black Templar codex is so small.
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Oct 2, 2023 22:45
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Anyone recommend a good white paint? I'm about to do a lot of white helmets.
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Oct 3, 2023 03:09
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wins32767 posted:Anyone recommend a good white paint? I'm about to do a lot of white helmets. ProAcryl Titanium white, Golden Titanium White. But you should only use actual white for the tiniest highlights.
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Oct 3, 2023 03:12
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Lumpy posted:ProAcryl Titanium white, Golden Titanium White. But you should only use actual white for the tiniest highlights. What's a good off-white? I've been using a bone shade, but it's not white enough for these helmets.
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Oct 3, 2023 03:20
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wins32767 posted:What's a good off-white? I've been using a bone shade, but it's not white enough for these helmets. Ivories. Very pale skin tones like VMC Light Flesh. For a cooler off-white I really like Ulthuan Grey from Citadel.
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Oct 3, 2023 03:38
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Citadel Contrast Apothecary White is great. Pro Acryl Bright Ivory or Bright Neutral Grey.
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Oct 3, 2023 03:46
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wins32767 posted:What's a good off-white? I've been using a bone shade, but it's not white enough for these helmets. 
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Oct 3, 2023 03:48
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Thanks folks!
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Oct 3, 2023 04:01
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I think u mean 
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Oct 3, 2023 04:04
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Reaper pure white's my personal favorite.
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Oct 3, 2023 04:52
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I'm fond of Vellejo Model (Air) Signal White.
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Oct 3, 2023 05:10
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Lumpy posted:But you should only use actual white for the tiniest highlights. speaking of which, i've been using VMC verdigris glaze 70.832 almost exclusively as my highlight mixer of choice and it's been incredible into anything that isn't primarily yellow. Bucnasti posted:I'm fond of Vellejo Model (Air) Signal White. signal white is a specific RAL color but i don't think vallejo sells a paint with that name Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Oct 3, 2023 |
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Oct 3, 2023 05:18
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How do you weather steel/gunmetal? I painted some parts gunmetal metallic, and did a thin black wash. Is there anything else I can do? It just looks rather plain.
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Oct 3, 2023 05:47
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Saint Celestine posted:How do you weather steel/gunmetal? assuming we are talking about guns specifically: extremely lazy answer: gloss black, drybrush your favorite bronze if you want to make it look like an in-universe piece of poo poo, drybrush your favorite metallic for the metal it is, call it a day. a thinned black, blue, or brown contrast paint or multiple coats of a wash can take it down if it's too shiny or uniform. you can add bright silver/brass nicks for wear too. long and complicated answer: Firearms aren't like most steel objects and weather in a counterintuitive way. Steel parts on a gun that will be exposed to the elements are generally plated with a mostly non-reactive metal, or else chemically treated to passivize and increase the hardness of the steel parts. This means, despite still looking metallic, they wear more like a painted metal object, because they have a coating that can abrade, nick, wear down from friction, etc. You see much faster wear in any place the firearm is held, under the aiming finger, and any surface that rubs against the user or a holster. In particular, the inside - the side facing the chest - of a longarm will be significantly more worn because it's the side against the body when the weapon is slung over the back. Holster wear tends to abrade the end of the barrel and/or forward end of the slide, the front sight, the sides of the slide ahead of the trigger, and the front of the trigger guard. For pistols in particular, this holster wear goes both ways, since the parts of the firearm inside the holster are more protected from the elements. Nicks or scrapes are bright shiny silver immediately, then accumulate dirt and (orange) rust, or else black tarnish. Wear depends on the finish, but once the layer is worn away then you start to see rust, pitting, etc. The usual weathering of metal exposed to the elements. However, even if the gun's owner is an ork and doesn't give a poo poo, the high-friction areas will still generally be worn smooth even if they show the telltales of rust clusters. Only very degraded metal would be rough under the shooter's palms. Which of the two protective coatings a firearm would have depends on the vibe you're going for. Hardened steel is ubiquitous and cheap in the 20-21c IRL, while nickel plating was common in the latter half of the 19c, especially as guns moved from actual gunmetal (a bronze) to steel. Chemical treatment in the 19th century is fancy, while by the 20th century electroplating is only common as a purposefully nostalgic design or to decorate a firearm ostentatiously. You've almost certainly seen hardened steeguns. The most popular treatment today is a matte black finish that does not read as metallic, although there are other colors (mainly a reddish brown), almost all of them matte. This wears by slowly losing the surface, getting more metallic and shinier in a patchy way. The color change is the opposite of the way a coin or jewelry acquire tone over time, since a layer of intentional tarnish is being destroyed rather than deposited. In addition to the actual friction, the pattern of the wear is similar to the way any rolled steel plate wears. At 32mm, this should not be super noticeable unless this is meant to be an heirloom, centuries old, etc. Older finishes would be brassy, bluish, translucent or satin black, or even brownish or purplish. Even older bluing methods might even have swirls or clusters of these colors. These older treatments are often polished to a shine, matting down with wear almost immediately. This layer wears off the same way as the modern finishes, but it's less obvious because they're less even. I'm glossing (heh) over like a century of practical and decorative styles here so it's hard to make general statements beyond the basic nature of all passivization treatments. Sponging with the underlying metal color (probably dull grey) and rust orange looks good for wear on passivized finishes. Avoid streaking or textured corrosion unless the gun is meant to be scrap metal, like something used by undead, a 40K ork, a Nurgle worshipper, etc. If the firearm is plated, plating metals are generally shiny to begin with, matting down with wear. plating is prone to chipping or, in extreme cases, peeling. These will generally expose the duller, grayish underlaying metal (possibly as a shiny nick in an extreme case) but quickly turn black or orange from oxides and filth. These finishes won't rust (although they can certainly tarnish!) except where the plating has been physically scraped, but the plating can tarnish or corrode, or even be peeled or bubbled by chemical reactions or extreme temperatures. Plated guns just tarnish until they're so abused that they're pitting or peeling. This doesn't mean they don't acquire wear, it's just generally in the form of accumulating filth and black tarnish except where extreme wear or deep gouges get into the underlying ferrous metal. Think of the guns as literally being covered with metallic paint in bright silver/brass/gold, then wear them the way a high-wear painted metal object would wear. Just don't do the usual weather-streaking unless the gun is meant to have been found on the ground, or else is owned by a zombie or something.
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Oct 3, 2023 09:33
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nightstar mech from battletech  
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Oct 3, 2023 13:31
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wins32767 posted:What's a good off-white? I've been using a bone shade, but it's not white enough for these helmets. Golden N8 Neutral Gray, Titan Buff, and Titanium White, in various combinations.
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Oct 3, 2023 14:18
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For a warm off-white I like Pro Acryl Bright Ivory. My favorite cool off-white is VGC Ghost Grey. It's what I use for a base color on stormtroopers and clone troopers for Star Wars Legion and Shatterpoint.
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Oct 3, 2023 14:30
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Cease to Hope posted:speaking of which, i've been using VMC verdigris glaze 70.832 almost exclusively as my highlight mixer of choice and it's been incredible into anything that isn't primarily yellow. You're correct, I meant Insignia White.
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Oct 3, 2023 14:44
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I get VGC ghost grey and wolf grey confused and don't know which one's brighter so I basically flip a coin whenever I highlight stuff.
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Oct 3, 2023 15:10
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I like VMC White Grey as a base layer with pure white edge highlights. It's the combo I used for my white-armored Shasvastii. 
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Oct 3, 2023 17:18
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Hey guys. I'm currently painting up some Celestial Lions and I want to model them post Spear of the Emperor where they are extremely stretched thin and losing the fight for survival but still proud and fighting. As such I want to paint the gold on their armor as if they have been polishing it and maintaining it as much as they can, but are also embroiled in battle. I've got the first part down(the polished regal gold power armor) but I am at a loss on how to weather and damage the gold to represent the marines being in the field mid campaign. (Beyond adding dust) Does anyone have any tips or ideas on how to represent battle damage and weathering on gold armor?
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Oct 3, 2023 17:21
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jadebullet posted:Hey guys. I'm currently painting up some Celestial Lions and I want to model them post Spear of the Emperor where they are extremely stretched thin and losing the fight for survival but still proud and fighting. You should first decide. It the armor gold (as in a gold colored material all the way through) or is it painted/plated in gold. If the later, then standard sponge weathering will work, or chipping medium. If it's the former, I'm not sure.
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Oct 3, 2023 17:57
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Also note that gold does not really tarnish (which is why it is such a good jewelry material!) so doing verdigris like you would other materials would not be a thing. Dents, scratches, etc. are all good ways of showing what you are after.
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Oct 3, 2023 18:03
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Bucnasti posted:You should first decide. It the armor gold (as in a gold colored material all the way through) or is it painted/plated in gold. If the later, then standard sponge weathering will work, or chipping medium. If it's the former, I'm not sure. Electroplated ceramite so you're right, regular chipping methods would probably work and would probably look pretty interesting since, like has been pointed out, gold itself doesn't corrode.
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Oct 3, 2023 18:53
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Impacts spall plated metal (and paint!), much wider than it visibly affects the underlying metal. So you can have an impact dent, a much larger spalled area where the plating has been broken and chipped away, then tarnishing/rusting steel with a rim of stubborn rust following the inside edge of the spalling.
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Oct 3, 2023 20:01
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jadebullet posted:Hey guys. I'm currently painting up some Celestial Lions and I want to model them post Spear of the Emperor where they are extremely stretched thin and losing the fight for survival but still proud and fighting. oh wow, I've just started on a Celestial Lion kill team. I haven't gotten to the weathering stage yet but I'm starting with necro gold as my base for the armour and planning to add chips with a bright silver
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Oct 3, 2023 20:51
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Muir posted:First stuff I've painted up for 40k in a while, it's been mostly Warhammer Underworlds and Star Wars Shatterpoint lately. I might come back and do some edge highlighting later, I had trouble finding the right blend and the edges were either coming out too subtle or too bright. I had a lot of fun doing all the conversion/kitbashing to make them Space Wolfy, but man that adds a bunch of fiddly junk to paint later. Worth it, though, that conversion work is my favorite part of the process. Muir posted:Revisiting my Space Wolves colors. I was going for retro but they were a bit too light before. So I went all the way and ordered the original color equivalents from Coat D’Arms. Need to smooth the transition between the edge highlights and the base color a little more in places but the colors are true and I am very happy. Done with re-doing the whole squad:  Happy overall. I think a bit too heavy-handed with the edge highlights but I'm out of practice on power armor. Any feedback is welcome. Edit: the third guy from the left's chest scroll now reads "HULK" as he has been aptly named Brother Hogan by SuperKlaus. Muir fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Oct 3, 2023 |
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Oct 3, 2023 21:44
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Not a great picture, but I've been practicing slapchop for doing big groups and I was real happy with how this guy came out. 
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Oct 4, 2023 15:55
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Looks good to me.
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Oct 4, 2023 16:06
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Looks great! What did you use to base it?
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Oct 4, 2023 18:29
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Sharing with the class (Xpost from HH thread).Major Spag posted:Classic loadout, for classic dudemans.
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Oct 4, 2023 21:08
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Major Spag posted:Sharing with the class (Xpost from HH thread). They look good and grim!
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Oct 4, 2023 21:17
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Quick question about oil paints, or rather, mineral spirits: are they safe for synthetic brushes, or should I go get an animal hair one?
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Oct 4, 2023 21:23
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question about oil paints, or rather, mineral spirits: are they safe for synthetic brushes, or should I go get an animal hair one? They are fine for synthetics.
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Oct 4, 2023 22:01
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Super, thanks!
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Oct 4, 2023 22:12
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Settled on my Leagues of Votann color scheme. Now to do the Kill Team first and the whole army eventually.
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Oct 4, 2023 23:58
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Finished up my Terminator squad and therefore my backlog of stuff I had built and ready to paint so it felt like an appropriate time to stop and see what I've gotten done in the last year and few months of being into the physical part of the hobby. This thread and the main 40k thread have been instrumental in keeping me going and improving from my first squad of Legionaries that have entire unpainted bits, no highlights, and nuln oil slapped on randomly to models that I would feel pretty proud of seeing on a table against another army. First models I painted:  Most recent couple squads:   I really thought I'd hate the painting phase and want to just get to the actual game as quickly as possible but here we are a year later and I still only play Kill Team and painting models is basically my favorite way to spend my time, so ye thanks thread
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Oct 5, 2023 06:37
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    Starting a Custodes kill team, wasn't sure how I wanted to do the not-gold stuff, couldn't pick between red or purple so burgundy was a decent compromise. Dunno if I want to go lighter on the cloak or keep it as is and not gently caress it up
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Oct 5, 2023 08:14
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