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5-Headed Snake God
Jun 12, 2008

Do you see how he's a cat?


Mederlock posted:

How are the Army Painter speed paint 2.0 paints? I currently just use craft store and mid grade artists acrylics, heavily watered down with good quality acrylic medium added for my limited mini painting, but there's just so many steps to do it right :negative: . Wish I had an airbrush but I don't have the space or ventilation to set that up in my current living space

A few of the colors (notably Bony Matter) are awful, but most of them seemed pretty good when I experimented with them.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
They're pretty decent, no reactivation issues so far and a good amount of them have nice solid coverage. I prefer GW and Vallejo over them but I'm not disappointed in them

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Got a big set donated for a local makerspace and I'm a big fan. No reactivation issue which is a big positive vs the 1st ones.

Reactivation has its uses but pushes it away from the generalist territory I initially hoped to use them for

I do think I probably like Vallejos stuff more. Citadel is nice for color range, but I only have a couple as they're pretty pricey and 90% of the colors can be found elsewhere

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Caw!

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017


That's heckin rad. I have a kill team of those dudes just because they look rad and you're killing it.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Mederlock posted:

How are the Army Painter speed paint 2.0 paints? I currently just use craft store and mid grade artists acrylics, heavily watered down with good quality acrylic medium added for my limited mini painting, but there's just so many steps to do it right :negative: . Wish I had an airbrush but I don't have the space or ventilation to set that up in my current living space

It's fine. I haven't seen any reactivation issues

Devorum
Jul 30, 2005

Mederlock posted:

How are the Army Painter speed paint 2.0 paints? I currently just use craft store and mid grade artists acrylics, heavily watered down with good quality acrylic medium added for my limited mini painting, but there's just so many steps to do it right :negative: . Wish I had an airbrush but I don't have the space or ventilation to set that up in my current living space

I like them a lot. There's a few stinkers, but on the whole it's a great set with a good color range.

Personally, I rank them above Citadel Contrast (too many issues with inconsistent thinness and coverage), but slightly below Vallejo Xpress (which has a very limited color range).

The SpeedPaint Metallics are also pretty good.

Here's a model I did completely with 2.0 SpeedPaints (with 2 small exceptions, the Squig's eyes and a cable on the leg). I'm not the best painter, by any means, but I knocked this out pretty quick and I think it looks decent.

EDIT: I actually really like Bony Matter, but it dies take a bit of prep to look good. The two big fang/tusks on this backbanner are Bony Matter.



Devorum fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Sep 30, 2023

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I like that squidrider thing and the two-tone blue you got going on.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Squig is smooth as hell.

Angry Lobster
May 16, 2011

Served with honor
and some clarified butter.

Devorum posted:

I like them a lot. There's a few stinkers, but on the whole it's a great set with a good color range.

Personally, I rank them above Citadel Contrast (too many issues with inconsistent thinness and coverage), but slightly below Vallejo Xpress (which has a very limited color range).

The SpeedPaint Metallics are also pretty good.

Here's a model I did completely with 2.0 SpeedPaints (with 2 small exceptions, the Squig's eyes and a cable on the leg). I'm not the best painter, by any means, but I knocked this out pretty quick and I think it looks decent.

EDIT: I actually really like Bony Matter, but it dies take a bit of prep to look good. The two big fang/tusks on this backbanner are Bony Matter.





It's pretty good, what's your method with the 2.0 sp?

Devorum
Jul 30, 2005

Angry Lobster posted:

It's pretty good, what's your method with the 2.0 sp?

Pretty standard black primer, followed by a warm grey drybrush all over, a lighter warm grey drybrush at around 30-40 degrees, then a light Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White drybrush on the highest bits.

For the painting, I go in order from largest areas to smallest details, but generally do all of a single color at once if I can, careful to keep the paint from flowing to where it doesn't need to be. In my experience, AP is way better about that than Contrast. I get a lot more pooling and running with the Citadel line.

Depending on how lazy I'm feeling, I'll go back and add acrylic highlights.

I've been tempted to try a full en grisaille prep.

tangy yet delightful posted:

I like that squidrider thing and the two-tone blue you got going on.

SiKboy posted:

Squig is smooth as hell.

Thanks! I was going for a sharky vibe, like the box art...but I didn't like the box art colors at all.

hmm yes
Dec 2, 2000
College Slice
Vallejo Xpress has about 40 more colours being released on October 5 - here is the colour chart: https://www.vallejoacrylics.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/CC266-Game_Color-NewIC-Rev01-1.pdf

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

I think I'm going to do a test on oil washes. Anyone got a guide they really like, or some helpful tips? I oil paint, so I have everything I need, but I'm honestly pretty nervous about just how many ways this could go wrong. I paint my minis very slowly, and don't want to accidentally strip them or something fun like that.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Virtual Russian posted:

I think I'm going to do a test on oil washes. Anyone got a guide they really like, or some helpful tips? I oil paint, so I have everything I need, but I'm honestly pretty nervous about just how many ways this could go wrong. I paint my minis very slowly, and don't want to accidentally strip them or something fun like that.

Are you oil painting the miniatures? That probably changes things quite a bit.

Cult of Paint have a lot of good stuff with oil washes.

I think the main tip would be is be gentle with the removal and rely more on the thinners than the friction of whatever implement you're using to pull off excess.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Devorum posted:

I like them a lot. There's a few stinkers, but on the whole it's a great set with a good color range.

Personally, I rank them above Citadel Contrast (too many issues with inconsistent thinness and coverage), but slightly below Vallejo Xpress (which has a very limited color range).

The SpeedPaint Metallics are also pretty good.

Here's a model I did completely with 2.0 SpeedPaints (with 2 small exceptions, the Squig's eyes and a cable on the leg). I'm not the best painter, by any means, but I knocked this out pretty quick and I think it looks decent.

EDIT: I actually really like Bony Matter, but it dies take a bit of prep to look good. The two big fang/tusks on this backbanner are Bony Matter.





How'd you get the fuzzy line on the blue skin areas?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Virtual Russian posted:

I think I'm going to do a test on oil washes. Anyone got a guide they really like, or some helpful tips? I oil paint, so I have everything I need, but I'm honestly pretty nervous about just how many ways this could go wrong. I paint my minis very slowly, and don't want to accidentally strip them or something fun like that.

It kinda depends on what you want out of the washes. If you thin them down to Nuln Oil consistency you can do pin washes by just touching crevices and allowing the paint to get pulled in via capillary action. Then you clean up with a Q Tip with thinner. This is usually best done over a layer of acrylic gloss varnish.

Alternatively you can leave the wash a little thicker and slap it all over your model on top of your acrylic paint layer as an overall filter. Usually you leave it on for 5-10 minutes then use a makeup sponge to wipe off the model leaving behind a thin oil layer over everything. Q Tip to reach hard to reach places and thinner lets you fix areas that have gotten too darkened. This is one way people blend together the dotting that airbrushing leaves behind.

If you already oil paint then subtractive painting on a model shouldn't be that hard to figure out. The worst thing that can happen is staining a pure white layer with some burnt umber and having to repaint it white again.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Black is hard - very good job.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Devorum posted:

I like them a lot. There's a few stinkers, but on the whole it's a great set with a good color range.

Personally, I rank them above Citadel Contrast (too many issues with inconsistent thinness and coverage), but slightly below Vallejo Xpress (which has a very limited color range).

The SpeedPaint Metallics are also pretty good.

Here's a model I did completely with 2.0 SpeedPaints (with 2 small exceptions, the Squig's eyes and a cable on the leg). I'm not the best painter, by any means, but I knocked this out pretty quick and I think it looks decent.

EDIT: I actually really like Bony Matter, but it dies take a bit of prep to look good. The two big fang/tusks on this backbanner are Bony Matter.





:drat:

That's really good!

Hm. Maybe I'll hold off till Vallejo's expanded color palette is out so the reviews and comparisons come in and then settle on one

Devorum
Jul 30, 2005

GreenBuckanneer posted:

How'd you get the fuzzy line on the blue skin areas?

Mixed the two colors, then thinned them the SpeedPaint Medium and did kind of a stipple glaze thing until it looked how I wanted

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
If I'm getting the colour of my Space Marines armour from a shade wash, is that going to work right at vehicle scale? Dunno I'm just concerned something about big flat panels will make it not work right.

That's probably not my next big challenge though

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finished a squad for Majestic 13.

Field Intervention Team MOUSETRAP ready to blast some aliens (And probably get cloned a lot)

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Terminator champion finished up tonight and I tried to go for a "he JUST cut this guy's head off" look using a spare helmet I had, with that I've got 1 left for the squad and my back log will be done and I'll need to go buy some more models I suppose. Some things after the fact I'm not happy with on him, but he's more than tabletop ready.


Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Somehow I fat fingered my bookmarks and deleted this thread? Anyway, here’s a Nob I finished

Professor Shark posted:

Did an Ork Meganob for KT, inspired by old Eavy Metal stuff:



I need to do a bit of edging on some of the metal. The model I was looking at used such heavy washes that the metal looked black, but I think I need to make the edges stand out more.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Finished the veteran guard kill team finally. Mostly just laziness on my part and doing one a month.

edit: BTW the color choices were from a grimdark take on the trans pride flag











Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Oct 1, 2023

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Black is hard - very good job.

Thanks, but it was super easy. Just a solid basecoat of black followed by a drybrush of light grey. Feathers are just perfect for drybrushing.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

That job kicked butt and yeah, feather are really fun to work on

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Crosspost from the BattleTech thread. I painted some space pirates!

Assault Lance


(Mostly) Heavy Lance


Scout Lance



Pirate Company

Angry Lobster
May 16, 2011

Served with honor
and some clarified butter.

PoptartsNinja posted:

Crosspost from the BattleTech thread. I painted some space pirates!

Assault Lance


(Mostly) Heavy Lance


Scout Lance



Pirate Company


That's one hell of a pirate company, very nice.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Pulled out an old bag of minis lurking in a closet. Thinking of painting some and stripped them. Tons of old Ral Partha and Grenadiers from the 70s and 80s!











Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Bo-Pepper posted:

Pulled out an old bag of minis lurking in a closet. Thinking of painting some and stripped them. Tons of old Ral Partha and Grenadiers from the 70s and 80s!


Now those are some bendy swords.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe

Lamuella posted:

Now those are some bendy swords.

Haha yeah I’m afraid to set it back without snapping them. Lead seems real soft at least.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Spanish Manlove posted:

Finished the veteran guard kill team finally. Mostly just laziness on my part and doing one a month.

edit: BTW the color choices were from a grimdark take on the trans pride flag




So good!


Since I hate free time, I'm starting another game, and so have a WIP of my first Middle Earth Strategy Battle Game mini. I need to paint his fingernails and the base still.


GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

One of these days I'm going to understand how the hell people can do non-metallic metal, so far I just I can't figure it out

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

GreenBuckanneer posted:

One of these days I'm going to understand how the hell people can do non-metallic metal, so far I just I can't figure it out

literally the same way you give an object depicted on a canvas depth, rather than being a flat rectangle.

metallic paints are a shortcut, similar to contrast paints and ink washes (on miniatures), that automatically creates an approximation of the effect of light and shadow on an actual object. "NMM" is instead recreating those qualities by hand, with areas of light and shadow. you just need to move out of the mindset that "silver" is a color different from grey, and think in terms of objects reflecting different amounts of light in different ways, needing different shading and highlighting.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
This is one area that doing a zenithal prime is such a good idea. Do a good job of the zenithal, and then take some good, well lit photos from all angles of the mini. Then you can cross-reference those images for where you should be doing your highlights and darker/lighter shades of the same 'base' Colour, to simulate light shining on the figure from above.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Stayed up late tonight to finish a Deathwatch Biologis Apothecary from the Angels of Iron:


Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Dope :hfive:

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I got my Jackals finished!





The amount of detail on these models are nuts, Like I was mostly ok with the bikes and the riders, but then suddenly it's like here's 8 saddlebags all with wildly different equipment strapped to it. Go nuts. I'm really happy with how they turned out :3:

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

GreenBuckanneer posted:

One of these days I'm going to understand how the hell people can do non-metallic metal, so far I just I can't figure it out

I already told you: you do it wrong 57 times, then it clicks and it's easy from then on out.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
My shining moment of brilliance was trying to learn nmm and then giving up and going back to tmm but using techniques and methods that I learned from nmm. Now my metallics are often the best parts of my models and I can be super lazy with it.

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