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Deviant posted:So do I have this right? Mk3.5 is supposed to get input shaping (promised on the store page) but there are prusa forums posts confused about it because they aren't mentioning it in dev updates. If you're going to mk4 you don't need the superpinda. You might want the newer bearing clips for y-axis, but they're functionally identical. But as someone already mentioned the mk4 upgrade kit is almost the cost of a mk4 kit
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Oct 5, 2023 18:33
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Yeah the MK4 upgrade is a foolish purchase, and I think they just offer it out of a courtesy since they've done upgrades for every other model, which is cool and great! But the MK4 is so far removed from the MK3 that the upgrade kit is like 75% of the full MK4
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Oct 5, 2023 18:35
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tater_salad posted:i will say the stock bambu slicer settings for generic PLA has wayy too aggressive of a fan setting, I just had a print warp significantly off the plate because I forgot to pick my custom filament where I turn off the aux fan. Yup. I really wish there was a 'only flip on the aux fan at layer X' option, separately from the other fan settings. I usually have it at like 5-10% just to circulate air a bit for most prints, having it at high speeds early on is an active detriment, but it's very useful later in a print as it thins out and you might want the extra cooling. Having a '5% until layer 200, then ramp upwards toward 50%' or whatever option would make me very happy.
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Oct 5, 2023 19:02
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mewse posted:Mk3.5 is supposed to get input shaping (promised on the store page) but there are prusa forums posts confused about it because they aren't mentioning it in dev updates. I actually already own the y-axis clips, I bought them seperately to try and resolve an intermittent y-crash i can't nail down. So between an MK4 and an X1C, the X1C is probablty the better buy? I really like my current not-online prusaslicer ecosystem, though.
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Oct 5, 2023 19:11
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Deviant posted:So between an MK4 and an X1C, the X1C is probablty the better buy? I really like my current not-online prusaslicer ecosystem, though. As far as I can tell the bambulabs printers are objectively better value for money if you ignore all ethical concerns about IP. The most recent thing to happen was prusa blocked them from scraping the printables website and they put up a big blog post about how they were just doing the same thing that printables did to thingiverse.
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Oct 5, 2023 20:07
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I've been running an X1-C for a couple weeks now and I'm happy to jump on the bandwagon for people looking for recs, it just works. The only "fail" that I had was on the last page and that was my dumb rear end not looking at the slicer output to see that it had merged the supports into the model. Printing itself is excellent, and the speed means that that "failure" only wasted 5 hours of print time and not 20. It's fantastic walking away to pick up something for lunch, returning 20 minutes later and there is noticeable progress in the print. I think I've cranked through like 70 or 80 discrete prints so far, not counting the spool rims.
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Oct 5, 2023 20:25
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I only have experience with the MK3S and Mini and not the MK4 so I can't offer a perfect comparison, but I would personally say that Bambu's printers are more legitimately "just works" devices than Prusas. No consumer-level 3D printer is genuinely a tool that will never require any tinkering, but my P1s are as close as I've seen in like a decade of futzing with these things. They're really nice. The closed ecosystem sucks.
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Oct 6, 2023 03:59
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Any recommendations on a feature-light 1080p usb webcam for klipper? Mainly using it for monitoring/timelapses
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Oct 6, 2023 06:09
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SubNat posted:Yup. tangentially to this, I wish there was a way to do things like vase mode or fuzzy skin on a "between x and y layers" basis to the extent possible. Like, vase mode could DEFINITELY kick in at a specified layer, so you have a base that's printed "normally" which must have a perfectly flat top, on which all following layers go down as a spiralized outer contour. I have been able to hamfist this via having a "bottom" a zillion layers thick, which technically works and gives me the ability to make the innards I want but sucks for various reasons. Similarly fuzzy skin, just literally any finer control than "on/off/outside only", either picking faces or as a modifier cube or whatever.
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Oct 6, 2023 06:10
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So what other brands of filament are people using in their x1c? I'd like to try some other brands because the Bambu brand stuff is kinda pricey
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Oct 6, 2023 06:57
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Just wanna thank this thread for pointing out McMaster Carr has STEP files for nearly ever bolt, nut, washer, or whatever fastener on their site just freely downloadable. It's been very useful.
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Oct 6, 2023 07:24
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Deviant posted:So between an MK4 and an X1C, the X1C is probablty the better buy? I really like my current not-online prusaslicer ecosystem, though. An X1C will be better money:features/speed ratio. That being said I bought an MK4 to replace my MK2S and I'm happy I chose it over the X1C. Four major reasons: 1. I really like USB for transporting files. 2. It's way quieter (this printer is my one FDM printer for the home, I'm not running a farm or anything.) 3. Prusa Slicer is so good I wanted to give them money so they kept making it. 4. I like the open ecosystem. I bought this thing before input shaping was added. I'd estimate I saw a roughly 40% reduction in my print times with input shaping. BabelFish fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Oct 6, 2023 |
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Oct 6, 2023 08:04
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Javid posted:Similarly fuzzy skin, just literally any finer control than "on/off/outside only", either picking faces or as a modifier cube or whatever. I’m pretty sure PrusaSlicer 2.6 (at least, maybe before) can do fuzzy skin as a volume modifier.
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Oct 6, 2023 11:50
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Macichne Leainig posted:Nathan Builds Robots did his review of the MK4 recently and the input shaping didn't add too much speed wise and in fact introduced some artifacts on some of his test prints: I don't know exactly how it's implemented here, but input shaping by itself does not change the speed of the printer at all. What it does is let you run much higher acceleration, which does change the print time significantly, without getting ringing artifacts. If they didn't also push the acceleration up then yeah the print time isn't going to change.
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Oct 6, 2023 15:41
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:So what other brands of filament are people using in their x1c? I'd like to try some other brands because the Bambu brand stuff is kinda pricey Inland PETG because that’s what Microcenter has when I’m able to stop by and Hatchbox PETG because that’s what Amazon can ship to me in one day. No complaints about performance, it just took some time to get nozzle and bed temp settings right.
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Oct 6, 2023 15:53
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Sagebrush posted:I don't know exactly how it's implemented here, but input shaping by itself does not change the speed of the printer at all. What it does is let you run much higher acceleration, which does change the print time significantly, without getting ringing artifacts. If they didn't also push the acceleration up then yeah the print time isn't going to change. You also need better part cooling for the higher speeds and while the cooling fan is improved on the MK4 it's no X1C side fan.
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Oct 6, 2023 16:26
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w00tmonger posted:Any recommendations on a feature-light 1080p usb webcam for klipper? Mine is freestanding so I got an IPEVO Ziggi HD, which will do a little more than 1080P. Costs around $35 for a used one on Ebay.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:14
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I've been using IIID MAX.. I did have some issues with the AMS retracting when there wasn't a ton of filament on the spool.. so I printed an adjustable Silica Gel holder and filled it with pennies from my gigantic penny jar, works well now
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Oct 6, 2023 17:14
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:So what other brands of filament are people using in their x1c? I'd like to try some other brands because the Bambu brand stuff is kinda pricey A few of us in here are pretty big fans of the really cheap stuff from IIID Max and Fremover, it all prints quite well and is about half the price of the "name brands" when you buy in bulk. I've also been running a bunch of different "well, that color looks nice" silk PLA's from Amazon lately, couldn't even tell you what brands but they all work great. Just an opinion, but I think filament manufacturing has largely reached a point where it's a lot harder to find truly bad stuff anymore. The cheaper brands might still be more prone to diameter variations or other minor QC issues, but personally I haven't run into any show stoppers in a really long time, and I will almost always choose price over brand. Usual disclaimer, anecdotes are not data, sample size of one, etc.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:21
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I think I'll get the X1C. You get a lot more for your money, and if BambuLab decides to act a fool I'm sure the community will address it. I may still eventually get a Mk3->4 kit just to bring my mk3 up to parity (i don't need 3 unique printers in that size range or i'd just get a new mk4. Though I may get one and pass this one on to someone more in need.) Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 6, 2023 |
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Oct 6, 2023 17:23
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Tiny Timbs posted:No complaints about performance, it just took some time to get nozzle and bed temp settings right. What temps are you using if I could ask? I might dip my toes in PETG and would be good to have an idea of where to go from the stock settings if things aren't printing right.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:36
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Listerine posted:What temps are you using if I could ask? I might dip my toes in PETG and would be good to have an idea of where to go from the stock settings if things aren't printing right. Different brands of PETG are going to have different temp requirements. I'm printing some Hobby King PETG at 230C right now onto a 70C bed on my ender 3, but you're going to want to just give it a go at the recommended temps for your brand and adjust from there based on what you see.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:44
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armorer posted:Different brands of PETG are going to have different temp requirements. I'm printing some Hobby King PETG at 230C right now onto a 70C bed on my ender 3, but you're going to want to just give it a go at the recommended temps for your brand and adjust from there based on what you see. yeah I run overture at like 250 and 85 bed
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Oct 6, 2023 18:05
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Deviant posted:if BambuLab decides to act a fool I'm sure the community will address it. This is likely impossible due to how locked down their machines are. I don't expect them to do anything particularly egregious, but I wouldn't put faith in the community being able to fix anything about their printers if Bambulabs starts requiring first party DRM'd spools or something crazy like that.
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Oct 6, 2023 18:12
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armorer posted:Different brands of PETG are going to have different temp requirements. I'm printing some Hobby King PETG at 230C right now onto a 70C bed on my ender 3, but you're going to want to just give it a go at the recommended temps for your brand and adjust from there based on what you see. Yeah. The recommendations are usually on the label. I usually have to go hotter if I have to change anything from the recommendation.
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Oct 6, 2023 18:18
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Tiny Timbs posted:Yeah. The recommendations are usually on the label. I usually have to go hotter if I have to change anything from the recommendation. Agreed, I am running this PETG on the cold side of the recommended range because that printer doesn't have an all-metal hotend and it has a magnetic bed. I've built an enclosure for it, or else I would likely have to up the bed temp to prevent curling. I get good prints with almost no stringing and no curling with these settings, but I'd probably get better overall strength (better layer adhesion) if I printed it a little hotter.
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Oct 6, 2023 18:22
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:So what other brands of filament are people using in their x1c? I'd like to try some other brands because the Bambu brand stuff is kinda pricey I've run the following through my P1P with 0 issues Elegoo iiidmax prusament Atomic Polymaker Overture Inland Hatchbox Flashforge esun Ziro SunLu I don't really think you can find a bad brand nowadays.
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Oct 6, 2023 22:35
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I own a bunch of heat-set inserts but I recently discovered my new favorite way to do threaded inserts. Just get some of the ones that look like this (not actually a video, it's a screenshot)  The outside is (for example) M5 and the inside is M3 and a typical length is 6mm long. So just design a 5mm dia hole in your thingie that's 6mm deep, then screw this in with a flathead screwdriver, and yer done. Friendship ended with heat-set inserts t 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Oct 6, 2023 |
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Oct 6, 2023 23:18
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Aside from the occasional specialty filament, buy whatever is cheapest with the colors you want. Inland is my go to because it's easy to grab quickly from microcenter, but I'm about to switch to cheap sunlu from Amazon for the long term.
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Oct 6, 2023 23:26
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mattfl posted:I don't really think you can find a bad brand nowadays. I bought a bunch of Overture on sale and then was bummed to find it doesn't work with the Bambu AMS, which I'm about to buy. I guess you can re-spool it? But that sounds like a lot of work and potential for failure. I mainly want it for easy support printing. Do people mainly use PVA for PLA supports?
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Oct 6, 2023 23:27
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WhiteHowler posted:I bought a bunch of Overture on sale and then was bummed to find it doesn't work with the Bambu AMS, which I'm about to buy. You can print rings for the cardboard spools. I almost exclusively use Overture for PETG and ASA since it comes on cardboard. I use PETG to support PLA. It's breakaway and works fantastic.
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Oct 6, 2023 23:35
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WhiteHowler posted:I bought a bunch of Overture on sale and then was bummed to find it doesn't work with the Bambu AMS, which I'm about to buy. Print spool rims that match the filament manufacturer if possible. https://www.printables.com/search/all?q=spool%20rim I use polymaker ones but the pegs don't always line up, so removed them from the model.
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Oct 6, 2023 23:43
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Make sure you print the thin version of the overature ring.
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Oct 6, 2023 23:45
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I'm thinking of moving my two enders into an alcove that's only 20" tall. The printers will fit (if I move the filament off the top onto a separate spool holder) but I'm wondering if anyone knows of any prefab enclosures that are also that size? I see some enclosures online but they're all tall enough to keep the filament spool on top inside the enclosure. Edit: Actually one of these might work fine if I just lay it on its side. armorer fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Oct 7, 2023 |
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Oct 7, 2023 00:46
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Unperson_47 posted:Just wanna thank this thread for pointing out McMaster Carr has STEP files for nearly ever bolt, nut, washer, or whatever fastener on their site just freely downloadable. It's been very useful. Just a reminder that more than a handful of these in your CAD can (will???) grind your system to a halt
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Oct 7, 2023 01:06
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WhiteHowler posted:I bought a bunch of Overture on sale and then was bummed to find it doesn't work with the Bambu AMS, which I'm about to buy. I’ve run 15+ rolls of Elegoo PLA through my AMS with no problems on the cardboard spools. Maybe it’s because I’ve got the Hydra mod in it but I don’t have a lot of problems with cardboard spools in the AMS.
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Oct 7, 2023 01:37
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mattfl posted:I’ve run 15+ rolls of Elegoo PLA through my AMS with no problems on the cardboard spools. Maybe it’s because I’ve got the Hydra mod in it but I don’t have a lot of problems with cardboard spools in the AMS. Other than letting accept bigger rolls, does the Hydra let you do anything in particular? Knock on wood but I finally stopped getting the "failed to retract" error I've been getting for ages on my AMS
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Oct 7, 2023 01:47
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People say that cardboard spools umm slip more or deform. I've never had this problem. People told me to use rings on mine for my drier if I was going to feed my printer from it. I stopped and never had an issue with the cardboard deforming. I think the issue with cardboard is dust accumulating over time, I've not had issues with them feeding.
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Oct 7, 2023 02:20
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tater_salad posted:I think the issue with cardboard is dust accumulating over time, I've not had issues with them feeding. I have had to clear some dust out, my experience being the same otherwise. Have occasionally put electrical tape on the rim if I was suspicious about an old roll, and I've also remounted Polymaker centers on the Bambu reels by tearing the sides off. Make sure you write on it somewhere what it is if you put it back into storage. PLA, ABS... 
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Oct 7, 2023 03:35
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I keep all my boxes so I just stuff them back in the appropriate box. If you want I can probably take and ship you a pile of stickers for abs pla and petg...
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Oct 7, 2023 12:25
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