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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

devmd01 posted:

An especially dangerous one, I prefer the blender drain.

Planted an eastern redbud for a privacy screen between my neighbors patio and mine. The 811 marking guy was amazed that I had marked the dig area with white paint.

God I loving love eastern redbuds they are like alien trees in the spring

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Faustian Bargain posted:

is this an appropriate thread for a permit question?

getting conflicting answers on if i need a permit to have an exterior side door installed in our attached garage. the contractor we’ve previously used says no. i asked the city and they said i should, but that the plans for the addition in 2010 showed there was already a window there and a door across from it, but that’s not what’s actually there obviously. they suggested talking to a structural engineer. first company i talked to said yeah should be permitted and would cost about 1850 for them to draw everything up. second company i talked to said not necessary to permit based on location in a pic i sent, but quoted me 1900 to draw it up. my neighbor is a commercial contractor and says it should be permitted. my other neighbor is just an old dude who says he never permits anything and never had a problem.

there seems to be no consistent answer and i don’t want to drop unnecessary money for no reason.

nevada, if it’s state specific.
This is the kind of thing where the correct legal answer to 'do you need a permit and stamped drawings' may likely be 'yes', but the practical answer is 'only if you feel like it or live next door to the building inspector'.

Is the new door even visible from the the street? It seems like definitely the kind of thing a carpenter could do in a weekend and nobody would ever be the wiser. Assuming your garage is a normal wood, stick frame house, I can't see why you'd need to pay an engineer $2k to say 'put a normal double 2x12 header up there,' especially when I would imagine that drawing is gonna cost 50% more than the job itself. If it's an usual situation then an engineer may be required, but I think you may be in a situation where you called an engineer and asked for drawings which they are happy to do, but the better question may be 'do I need drawings for this entirely routine and described by code situation,' which may be why your contractor says you don't need a permit. IME the city will basically always tell you need a permit, even in cases where you legally may. Lots of people think they don't need permits for things they actually do need permits for, so the city generally defaults to 'yes, you need to get a permit'

Different areas have different attitudes. Some municipalities will make you rip out unpermitted work, some don't care at all unless you're pretty blatant about it. I know in my area, if the homeowner does the work on their own property it doesn't have to be permitted up to $50K, but still has to be done to code. In general, all commercial work has to be permitted which may be why your neighbor thinks it needs permitting. If you're hiring it out to a contractor, it probably should be permitted. But the homeowner exception creates alot of room for 'oh yeah I did that myself' after the fact.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I was surprised when I called my town permitting office and asked about what I needed permit wise to put in an irrigation system, and the response was “huh, I dunno” followed by a few minutes and “nothing, maybe call the water utility?”

Faustian Bargain
Apr 12, 2014


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

This is the kind of thing where the correct legal answer to 'do you need a permit and stamped drawings' may likely be 'yes', but the practical answer is 'only if you feel like it or live next door to the building inspector'.
yeah this is my issue.

quote:

Is the new door even visible from the the street?
i guess but not without effort. it’s behind a 6 foot fence about 80 or 90 feet from the street.

there’s nothing up here but houses and no through traffic. technically we aren’t even in the city, but are in the county.

quote:

It seems like definitely the kind of thing a carpenter could do in a weekend and nobody would ever be the wiser. Assuming your garage is a normal wood, stick frame house, I can't see why you'd need to pay an engineer $2k to say 'put a normal double 2x12 header up there,' especially when I would imagine that drawing is gonna cost 50% more than the job itself.
all this is true. i’m usually in camp “let’s do it right” but this seems unnecessarily expensive.

thanks!

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Faustian Bargain posted:

i’m usually in camp “let’s do it right” but this seems unnecessarily expensive.

:thunkin: The current thread title is good, but this...

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

I unfortunately have a bigger problem today than my smelly bathroom sink.

My bathroom/laundry room is always very dusty, humid, and hot after using the dryer. I pulled it out (side-by-side Samsung washer and Samsung electric dryer) and the semi-rigid aluminum flex hose fell out of the wall. I kept trying to put it back but and tighten the clamp but it kept falling out. The semi-solid wall exhaust pipe that the flex pipe should cover is also pretty short, maybe ~3 inches. I think that this is one reason why it's falling out - too little to grab. Maybe the clamp is not good enough. The previous owner also warned me of this problem, that it sometimes happens and has to be fixed from time to time. I'm thinking of trying to replace the entire thing. Should I? What kind of hose and clamps should I get?

EDIT 1: Please treat me like I know nothing, because I know nothing.




EDIT 2: Can one of these help me?

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70149-P2-Control-Clamps-4-Inch/dp/B09NR8172H/

small butter fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Oct 8, 2023

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
Yeah just take that ring clamp off and see if it even can tighten down enough,. if it can't take it to the store and buy the next size down.

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

you'll want to loosen that ring clamp with a screwdriver so you can get it and the vent tube around the outlet pipe there, then re-tighten it once it's on all the way. it's probably too tight to just slip back on.

I've tried this several times. Took the clamp off completely, put it back, re-tightened it, but it yanks off when I pull or when I try to put back the dryer. Since the previous owner told me about this, I think it may be a deeper problem than that.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
could be that pipe has been clamped hard so many times the end is kinda tapered in now, so poo poo just slides right off.

If it were me I'd just grab some aluminum duct tape and tape the poo poo out of it so the hose stops falling off.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


They used too much hose so when you push the dryer back against the wall it is bunching up and putting pressure on the connection. The hose should be at maximum extension and barely reaching when you have the dryer out just far enough to reach the connection on the back of the dryer.

Trim down the hose a bit and see if that helps.

If it is still a problem you might want to switch to the more traditional corrugated flexible dryer hose (cut as short as you can get away with). Yes it catches more lint, but sometimes you have to have the additional flex unless you are willing to take extraordinary measures to get the vent connected. Just check it for lint build up every year and you'll be fine.

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

Shifty Pony posted:

They used too much hose so when you push the dryer back against the wall it is bunching up and putting pressure on the connection. The hose should be at maximum extension and barely reaching when you have the dryer out just far enough to reach the connection on the back of the dryer.

Trim down the hose a bit and see if that helps.

If it is still a problem you might want to switch to the more traditional corrugated flexible dryer hose (cut as short as you can get away with). Yes it catches more lint, but sometimes you have to have the additional flex unless you are willing to take extraordinary measures to get the vent connected. Just check it for lint build up every year and you'll be fine.

Thanks. I do have metal cutters, but how would I cut it without deforming it?

What about adding an elbow? I think it might reduce the pressure on the hose by adding to the short vertical wall pipe.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Draw a line around the circumference and very carefully cut it a cm or so per snip. That's how I've done it on rigid ductwork and it turns out fine.

I thought maybe an elbow might help since the bend in the flex pipe is doubtlessly putting some force on the connection, I just don't know how much of a difference it would make. If you want to try you should probably use a tight elbow like this one: https://a.co/d/heVAdDK

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Bend the opening from the wall a little wider since it looks too tapered to hold the pipe properly.

Also get a better clamp. Those are the lovely ones that come with the dryer kits. Get one with a little worm gear, they work way better.

Like this, but the proper diameter:

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

Thanks.

Since I'd like to have this done in one day, I'm getting an extra flex hose, aluminum duct tape, an elbow, a straight duct connector in case the elbow doesn't work, 4 thumb screw worm gear clamps, and those Powertec dust control cuffs with built-in clamps (which I will try first). I guess I'll send back anything that I won't need.

How much would it cost for a pro to do this, by the way? Replace the hose and connectors and to get it tight/sturdy?

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

small butter posted:

How much would it cost for a pro to do this, by the way? Replace the hose and connectors and to get it tight/sturdy?
An actual pro? Figure 30 bucks for supplies, 100 bucks for labor, and then the cost of whatever other much larger, more profitable job that you hired them for to them to make it worth their time to show up at your house, unfortunately.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Slugworth posted:

An actual pro? Figure 30 bucks for supplies, 100 bucks for labor, and then the cost of whatever other much larger, more profitable job that you hired them for to them to make it worth their time to show up at your house, unfortunately.

Lol yes this is the most correct answer sadly

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Kylaer posted:

:thunkin: The current thread title is good, but this...

too long :(

e:

Slugworth posted:

An actual pro? Figure 30 bucks for supplies, 100 bucks for labor, and then the cost of whatever other much larger, more profitable job that you hired them for to them to make it worth their time to show up at your house, unfortunately.
sadly this is way too long for a thread title, as perfect as it is.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Oct 8, 2023

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Looking to build a shed in my backyard but I have a few questions:

1) it will ideally fit my riding mower, snow blower, and a few accessories. Measuring those two with some space to get around them puts me at around an 8x10 shed at least. Any input on size? I’m sure bigger is most of the time better.

2) location: I need to cut a few smaller trees down and get the area graded, but the spot I’ve picked will still put the shed between a few trees and there will be trees behind it, so I’m not sure a truck delivering a full size shed would be able to get back there and drop it into place. There’s a few companies that assemble sheds onsite so that might be the way to go. Thoughts?

3) I don’t need a permit for anything under 200 square feet per my towns website. However I have to call the zoning department to ensure it doesn’t go in wetlands, protected environments. No question there, just stating what their site says.

4) location. I don’t know if this goes into my neighbors lot or not, so I think I need to get a survey done. From what I can tell, I’d want a border survey since I just care about ensuring I’m building in on my 1.5 acre lot. Is this something towns offer or do I need to go commercial. Any general guess on costs (New England area).

Anything else you wish you would have thought about building a shed that you would have done differently? The goal is to empty my 2 car garage so we can get both vehicles in there which right now, is impossible.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Most installers shouldn't have a problem getting a shed in between trees as they will have something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kC0m_f97-hs

You definitely want to know where your property lines are, so a boundary survey is good to have if you don't already have one on file. Pricing varies extremely wildly depending on locality and your specific lot so expect to pay anywhere from a couple hundred bucks to a couple thousand. Complicated lot shapes and annoying to walk lot lines might prompt "gently caress you" quotes.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

What exactly are "a few accessories" and how big is your mower deck and snow blower? I have a 42" mower and a 24(maybe?)" blower and I can't imagine getting them in a 8x10 with space for much more or the ability to take them out independently Maybe if the long wall is basically all door? Either way if it's not much more work to go 10x12 you should look into that.

You may also need space to fix your mower or do maintenance if it's anything like mine and has a Kohler Courage engine.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think


Thanks Shifty! A shed mule looks like it would do the trick assuming it works on a 10x12 shed.

I left a voicemail with the zoning department and I’ll ask if they do boundary surveys or can give me a list of people around town that do that.

The Dave posted:

What exactly are "a few accessories" and how big is your mower deck and snow blower? I have a 42" mower and a 24(maybe?)" blower and I can't imagine getting them in a 8x10 with space for much more or the ability to take them out independently Maybe if the long wall is basically all door? Either way if it's not much more work to go 10x12 you should look into that.

You may also need space to fix your mower or do maintenance if it's anything like mine and has a Kohler Courage engine.

Yeah, my blower measures 27” width and I have a 48” deck for my mower, so 8x10 would be cutting it very close. 10x12 would be ideal and it looks like I have the room for it.

I hadn’t thought of actually working on them, but honestly I could move them into the garage for that (adjusting deck height or changing oil/etc). Main idea is for storage, not temporary repairs. I’ve got a bagger right now and one of those ATV jacks that I’d put in there. I also have a backpack blower and a weed whacker I would mount on one of the walls.

nwin fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Oct 9, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Has anyone had trouble with the battery on their Ego push mower? At almost exactly a year old, mine suddenly lost about 80% of its capacity. When this was discussed earlier in the year it was the HCH pick.

I did call customer service and they are shipping a new battery as it’s under warranty, luckily.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison
when we had a shed delivered they used a shed mule like thing and were able to get it between some smaller trees pretty easily. guy should come out to inspect the site before delivery anyway, especially if they’re doing the grading for you.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

nwin posted:

Yeah, my blower measures 27” width and I have a 48” deck for my mower, so 8x10 would be cutting it very close. 10x12 would be ideal and it looks like I have the room for it.

As was mentioned upthread, make sure that whatever building you get has doors big enough for you to get your stuff in and out.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

kreeningsons posted:

Has anyone had trouble with the battery on their Ego push mower? At almost exactly a year old, mine suddenly lost about 80% of its capacity. When this was discussed earlier in the year it was the HCH pick.

I did call customer service and they are shipping a new battery as it’s under warranty, luckily.

Just wrapped up year two with mine, still mows enough that I don't even charge it everytime. I think it does two full front and backyard mows, depends a lot on grass length of course. These late summer mows don't have a ton of growth.

Eeyo
Aug 29, 2004

For the ego mower, do you charge it indoors? I have my charger in my garage but I bring the battery inside once it’s charged.

Good thing they’re replacing it, the batteries are expensive.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

kreeningsons posted:

Has anyone had trouble with the battery on their Ego push mower? At almost exactly a year old, mine suddenly lost about 80% of its capacity. When this was discussed earlier in the year it was the HCH pick.

I did call customer service and they are shipping a new battery as it’s under warranty, luckily.

gently caress yes I did and it soured me to the entire Ego brand. My battery couldn't make it 15 minutes into a mow without blinking the overheat code and refusing to work. I called customer service many times over a 6 month period and had to yell at them to finally send me a new battery. They were having me perform all kinds of "tests" that took hours and then I'd call them back with the results and nothing we talked about on the past call was documented and they would have me perform some other asinine test and then call them back with the results. Rinse and repeat. It was all just stall tactics. After they finally agreed to send me a new battery, it took another 6 months to receive it because of supply chain issues. I'm loving furious just thinking about it.

E: I store and charge my batteries inside and never leave it on the charger fwiw. Ego just has lovely batteries that have a high failure rate.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 9, 2023

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Eeyo posted:

For the ego mower, do you charge it indoors? I have my charger in my garage but I bring the battery inside once it’s charged.

Good thing they’re replacing it, the batteries are expensive.

Nope. I charge it in the shed and leave it there all year, in Denver.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Eeyo posted:

For the ego mower, do you charge it indoors? I have my charger in my garage but I bring the battery inside once it’s charged.

Good thing they’re replacing it, the batteries are expensive.

Yeah and I keep the battery and the whole mower in my basement.

I remembered that this only started happening when I left the battery on the charger for an entire weekend. Which I assumed was fine because the manual implies that the battery/charger will automatically maintain itself if on the charger for an extended period by going into “maintenance mode”, and reassures the user that the battery can’t be overcharged. I didn’t mention this detail to the warranty department…

Then I did some research and it turns out I may have been wrong to leave it on the charger? https://wiiwrite.medium.com/is-ego-power-tools-deceiving-consumers-into-breaking-their-own-batteries-e957e3e10680

Now I’m very confused but TLDR I guess I’m going to start setting an alarm and taking my battery off the charger immediately after it’s done charging.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
I had one ego battery die on year 4. Second and third ones are still working fine in year 7 and 3.

Been extremely happy with my mower and backpack leaf blower from them.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

kreeningsons posted:


Now I’m very confused but TLDR I guess I’m going to start setting an alarm and taking my battery off the charger immediately after it’s done charging.

Ohhh now that's interesting. I actually leave it on the charger but turn the charger off. My shed has a small solar panel and battery in it that I use to recharge batteries and run lights as needed. So when it's done charging I go out and turn the inverter off.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

kreeningsons posted:

Yeah and I keep the battery and the whole mower in my basement.

I remembered that this only started happening when I left the battery on the charger for an entire weekend. Which I assumed was fine because the manual implies that the battery/charger will automatically maintain itself if on the charger for an extended period by going into “maintenance mode”, and reassures the user that the battery can’t be overcharged. I didn’t mention this detail to the warranty department…

Then I did some research and it turns out I may have been wrong to leave it on the charger? https://wiiwrite.medium.com/is-ego-power-tools-deceiving-consumers-into-breaking-their-own-batteries-e957e3e10680

Now I’m very confused but TLDR I guess I’m going to start setting an alarm and taking my battery off the charger immediately after it’s done charging.

I’ve had my Ego mower for two years and have left the battery on the charger the entire time. It hasn’t had any battery issues but I did have to get the drive motor replaced under warranty.

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023
Anyone have electric snow blower advice? The only gas engine I have is the snow blower. I'm in Chicagoland by the lake so I only need to use it a few times a year when it's a heavy wet snow. I'd prefer to just get rid of it and go electric like everything else.

For my lawn stuff everything is corded and I'm going to eventually sell that and go to cordless, but I don't have any preference on the snow blower. Corded will be annoying as we have a corner lot with sidewalk to clear and my 100' cord doesn't quite reach the whole thing, but I can make it work. Without much research I assume a snow blower takes a lot more battery than even a cordless lawnmower so should I even worry about the brand ecosystem? Reading about the ego battery issues made me wonder about this.

Edit my gas snowblower is a hand-me-down, I've serviced it 3? Times in 7 years at $150 a pop, I use stabil fuel, and the drat thing still wouldn't start last year.

trevorreznik fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Oct 9, 2023

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


trevorreznik posted:

Anyone have electric snow blower advice? The only gas engine I have is the snow blower. I'm in Chicagoland by the lake so I only need to use it a few times a year when it's a heavy wet snow. I'd prefer to just get rid of it and go electric like everything else.

For my lawn stuff everything is corded and I'm going to eventually sell that and go to cordless, but I don't have any preference on the snow blower. Corded will be annoying as we have a corner lot with sidewalk to clear and my 100' cord doesn't quite reach the whole thing, but I can make it work. Without much research I assume a snow blower takes a lot more battery than even a cordless lawnmower so should I even worry about the brand ecosystem?

We're already on EGO chat but I do have the EGO single-stage snowblower with the steel auger, and I like it a lot. I bought it two years ago and have been really happy with it. It struggles with the wet, heavy snow which will build up inside the chute and you have to regularly clean it out to continue. Depending on snow volume you'll definitely have to time a storm and do several clearings to keep up. I think these are likely issues you'd have with any single stage blower though, including gas. The EGO is incredibly quiet, which is great because I can clear my driveway that's 5ft from my neighbor's house and not worry about bothering them. I have an 85' driveway and 40' of sidewalk and can usually do all of that, and my entire block on days I'm feeling generous, with a single charge (it takes two batteries). I live in SE Michigan so we get a moderate amount of snow but not much lake effect.

It wasn't cheap but if you buy the set with the batteries and high speed charger you can then get the tool-only version of their mower, etc when you decide to ditch the corded stuff, and it'll be a lot cheaper.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

trevorreznik posted:

Edit my gas snowblower is a hand-me-down, I've serviced it 3? Times in 7 years at $150 a pop, I use stabil fuel, and the drat thing still wouldn't start last year.

Is it always a bad fuel issue? If so instead of spending all that money on servicing it, buy a $15 pump and pump out all the remaining gas at the end of the season and run off whatever is left in the lines and carb.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Dave posted:

Is it always a bad fuel issue? If so instead of spending all that money on servicing it, buy a $15 pump and pump out all the remaining gas at the end of the season and run off whatever is left in the lines and carb.

The fuel in the tank isn't the problem. It's the fuel in the carb which won't all come out.

Drain the tank, put a splash of tru fuel or other synthetic in there in there and run it until it runs out of fuel.

Sta-bil works great in a lot of stuff (I use the marine version) but the smaller it is the more finicky it seems to be. I run my chainsaws on 100% trufuel starting this time of year because of this. When you need them to just work in the winter this is the way of it.

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023
I went out and checked and it actually is trufuel I have. Bought a bunch of it a while ago at a premium price to not have to gently caress with things. Then last winter I ran it once just fine then it wouldn't fire up a second time. Gas engines are my nemesis

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

trevorreznik posted:

I went out and checked and it actually is trufuel I have. Bought a bunch of it a while ago at a premium price to not have to gently caress with things. Then last winter I ran it once just fine then it wouldn't fire up a second time. Gas engines are my nemesis

To be fair, a lot of carb replacement and carb parts (likely what your service works is consisting of) are absolute crap these days. Good thing they're cheap.

You could absolutely learn to slap a new carb on there yourself and just have one sitting around waiting for the next time it needs it.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer
My housemates are trying to hang some curtains. The anchors don't seem to be going very deep into the wall by the window, and there is something hard behind the plaster. Are windows generally surrounded by solid wood? Is it better to hang them with wood screws? Per my housemates, the screws they came with don't go deep enough through the plaster if there is wood behind them. Is there a trick to this?

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

nwin posted:

Looking to build a shed in my backyard but I have a few questions:

1) it will ideally fit my riding mower, snow blower, and a few accessories. Measuring those two with some space to get around them puts me at around an 8x10 shed at least. Any input on size? I’m sure bigger is most of the time better.

2) location: I need to cut a few smaller trees down and get the area graded, but the spot I’ve picked will still put the shed between a few trees and there will be trees behind it, so I’m not sure a truck delivering a full size shed would be able to get back there and drop it into place. There’s a few companies that assemble sheds onsite so that might be the way to go. Thoughts?

3) I don’t need a permit for anything under 200 square feet per my towns website. However I have to call the zoning department to ensure it doesn’t go in wetlands, protected environments. No question there, just stating what their site says.

4) location. I don’t know if this goes into my neighbors lot or not, so I think I need to get a survey done. From what I can tell, I’d want a border survey since I just care about ensuring I’m building in on my 1.5 acre lot. Is this something towns offer or do I need to go commercial. Any general guess on costs (New England area).

Anything else you wish you would have thought about building a shed that you would have done differently? The goal is to empty my 2 car garage so we can get both vehicles in there which right now, is impossible.

Don't know poo poo about permits and laws, but I built a shed that's around 16.5 by 16.5 feet and I wish I built it bigger already :v:

I have a thread about it on this forum.

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