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mobby_6kl posted:Nope, that's right. Ok I'll work on it some more. 1st and 2nd are the hardest so far. I'm getting a feel for it. How bad is it for the transmission to get those little shocks? I'm not kangarooing back and forth, but there is a little jolt a lot of the time.
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Oct 12, 2023 16:12
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Travic posted:And that number is different for every gear at every speed; i.e., shifting into 2nd at 20mph requires a different rpm than 30mph. Yeah, it's just math. The engine is spinning at a certain speed (RPM), the transmission reduces that based on what gear you're in (eg, 1st might be 3:1, 2nd might be 2.25:1) (top gear might actually increase that ratio (eg 0.9:1)) and sends that to the wheels, the wheels spin at that speed. Example, if you are at a 3:1 ratio and the engine is at 3,000 RPM, then the wheels are spinning at 1,000 RPM. If you are at 6,000 RPM, then the wheels are spinning at 2,000 RPM. At a 2:1 ratio, that would be 1,500 RPM and 3,000 RPM. So, different speeds are different RPM at the wheel/transmission and different gears are a different ratio, so both the speed and the gear determine what RPM your engine is turning at. And you need to know the diameter (well, circumference) of the wheel to get the speed you are going. Tl;Dr: do it by "feel". You'll get it. Uthor fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 16:29
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Uthor posted:Yeah, it's just math. The engine is spinning at a certain speed (RPM), the transmission reduces that based on what gear you're in (eg, 1st might be 3:1, 2nd might be 2.25:1) (top gear might actually increase that ratio (eg 0.9:1)) and sends that to the wheels, the wheels spin at that speed. So I made this because I am a tremendous nerd. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fyzhMWmYJfI7QkwQjmiw0wIGszTfWXURZaeFtVbNecA/edit?usp=sharing I'll keep working on feeling it, but does this look fairly right? Hopefully I can use this to get an idea of the butter zone rather than trial and error. Less stumbling around in dark shocking my transmission. Travic fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 17:07
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Ok Comboomer posted:fiesta st ecoboom is running a bit rough, check engine light is on but not flashing, pulls code P219A(00)- fuel/air mixture out of range in bank 1 Describe rough. Because I got a similar code on my Forester XT (P0457) but I didn't notice anything perceivably off with the way it was running or doing pulls. I haven't driven since June and it's been too hot and wet for me to look into it myself. I also lost the registration for it along with my wallet so I can't take it to any shops and I'm too cheap to get a replacement unless I really have to. Which I may have to since it's not up for renewal until February and I may need it sooner rather than later as my daily is RWD with EV-specific all-season tires and they're expecting more snow this season than before. Not that I'm in a position where I have to drive regardless of weather but better to have that option available. Plus I feel guilty for neglecting it this whole time but I'm honestly afraid of getting stranded again (specifically when the voltage regulator on the alternator failed) or not being aware that it's developed a problem until it's too late (profusely leaking oil from the pressure switch until low oil pressure light started intermittently blinking). Granted I managed to not make the situation worse and got them resolved without overspending and without needing a tow (though I still am losing a concerning amount of oil) but sooner or later my luck will run out and it happening almost back to back within a month really shook me up. At least it's no longer my daily driver. Tangentially, I changed the oil back in April. Since it hasn't driven since June, is it okay to extend the oil change? Since I got a new daily in March, I've been only driving it about 50 miles a week and with remote and then hybrid work, I've been barely putting much mileage for the time I've had it. As a result, I've been changing the oil every 6 months as I never come close to 5000 miles in that time frame. Ninja edit: Reading a bit more myself, it sounds like 1 year is the absolute limit.
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Oct 12, 2023 17:15
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Jack B Nimble posted:Anyway, the shipping company just called me yesterday to say that the carrier they contracted needs me to call them and pay them an additional fifty dollars because the pick up location is a little outside of their usual zone. When I said that I'd already agreed to a price to ship the car, the representative assured me I didn't have to do this and we could wait for another carrier that would do it at this price. I dunno, it's not so much the money as just feeling a little scammy at being told it would cost more, and to call a third party to, what, pay them over the phone? What if they did the same thing for the drop off, when they already have the car? That sucks, but it makes sense. The broker doesn't own the trucks; they contract a series of pickups and drop-offs to independent owner/operators who own the trucks. The driver agreed to a job, and is jerking you and the broker around. I agree, gently caress 'em and let somebody else do the job at the negotiated price if you're willing to wait a little bit.
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Oct 12, 2023 17:34
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Yeah, and they called me back the next day and are apparently picking the Mustang up now, so while it may not have been a literal "steall all his money" scam it does seem to have been something I didn't need to pay.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:11
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Travic posted:So I made this because I am a tremendous nerd. Just a quick look and me driving a manual last about four years ago, seems in the right ball park. You'll also get a feel for how fast you want the engine spinning, more power for acceleration vs less for cruising economically.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:36
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You can pay attention to the tachometer while driving in a particular gear at various speeds to help internalize the info in the spreadsheet
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Oct 12, 2023 18:46
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This is way outside of my area of expertise but if you want to nerd it up even more you could look up your "power band", color that all green, find your rev limit, and color that all red.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:54
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Awesome. Thanks for all the help. Rev-hang is also going to make this very interesting.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:07
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I need to buy new tires for my 2016 VW GTI. I was thinking the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 (https://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/michelin-pilot-sport-all-season-4/p/89305). I've never purchased tires in my life, this is the first car I've ever owned - lived in Boston and NYC before moving to LA. Is there anything I should know about buying tires? My father in law keeps telling me he's got a guy. Is buying tires the type of thing that's dumb to do from a big retailer? Is there any worry about buying second hand tires?
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Oct 12, 2023 21:16
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Awkward Davies posted:Is there any worry about buying second hand tires? DON'T DO THIS. They are worn out and who knows if there's holes and stuff. You will get less traction and less life.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:23
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Uthor posted:DON'T DO THIS. They are worn out and who knows if there's holes and stuff. You will get less traction and less life. To expand on this a bit: tires are among the most important safety-related consumable in your car, especially if you live somewhere where it rains or snows. If you can afford new tires, new tires are your best option. If you absolutely can't afford new tires but need tires, second-hand tires will get you where you need to go, probably, plus or minus any damage the previous owner may have caused that prompted them to replace their tires in the first place. If you need help finding tires for your car, ask. Include year/make/model and the size of the tire that's already on the car, and roughly where you are in the world. Decent new tires in a common size are often under $100/corner, but some shops might try to sell you tires that cost 2 or 3x that.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:40
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Uthor posted:DON'T DO THIS. They are worn out and who knows if there's holes and stuff. You will get less traction and less life. Safety Dance posted:To expand on this a bit: tires are among the most important safety-related consumable in your car, especially if you live somewhere where it rains or snows. If you can afford new tires, new tires are your best option. If you absolutely can't afford new tires but need tires, second-hand tires will get you where you need to go, probably, plus or minus any damage the previous owner may have caused that prompted them to replace their tires in the first place. Fair enough. Cost isn't really an issue. I mean I'm not looking for performance tires, it's a daily driver, but I don't need to skimp. I don't mind paying for something that's going to keep me safe. I'm in southern California, so for the most part it does not snow or rain. The Michelin Pilot Sport were recommended by Car and Driver, and seem to get good reviews. Is it better to buy all 4 at once? I just checked and my rear tires fail the penny test, but my front do not.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:50
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Living in LA you could probably run full summer tires year round like some Pilot Sport 4Ses which are some of the best performance daily driver tires out there and would play very nicely with a GTI, but I've heard really good things about the PS AS4s as well. I'm not really a fan of all season tires as a whole, but living in a place that never really gets real winter but is within driving distance of winter conditions seems like a pretty good application for them. I would 100% buy all four at once if you can, having substantially different tires on each axle seems like a recipe for "interesting" handling.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:59
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wolrah posted:Living in LA you could probably run full summer tires year round like some Pilot Sport 4Ses which are some of the best performance daily driver tires out there and would play very nicely with a GTI, but I've heard really good things about the PS AS4s as well. This is going to sound slightly strange I think, but when I go to the mountains I borrow my in-laws Prius. It will take snow cables and I've driven it up in Mammoth and Yosemite during snow storms and been okay. The GTI doesn't take cables, as far as I can tell. So yeah, it seems like I could be running summer tires.
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Oct 12, 2023 22:08
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Awkward Davies posted:Cost isn't really an issue. Then don't buy used. The boots theory absolutely applies to used vs new tires, plus the danger factor of actually damaged used tires.
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Oct 12, 2023 22:34
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Awkward Davies posted:This is going to sound slightly strange I think, but when I go to the mountains I borrow my in-laws Prius. It will take snow cables and I've driven it up in Mammoth and Yosemite during snow storms and been okay. I have the Pilot Sport 4S tires on my BRZ and absolutely love them. My wife has the AS4s on her mk7 GTI and they're great up until winter. Both are great choices.
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Oct 12, 2023 23:15
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google isn't helping as the one car is fairly rare. will a suburu impreza (mid 2010ish) donut work for a fiat 500 that did not have one included?
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Oct 13, 2023 00:31
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Thauros posted:google isn't helping as the one car is fairly rare. At a glance, it looks like all 2010+ Imprezas are 5 bolt and the only Fiat 500s they brought to the US are 4 bolts, so no, they don't even have the same number of holes regardless of pattern and sizing?
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Oct 13, 2023 00:35
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Twerk from Home posted:At a glance, it looks like all 2010+ Imprezas are 5 bolt and the only Fiat 500s they brought to the US are 4 bolts, so no, they don't even have the same number of holes regardless of pattern and sizing? i don't have access to the impreza to check even something that basic
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Oct 13, 2023 00:37
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Travic posted:So I'm learning to drive my manual faster. I've got normal driving nice and smooth, now it's time to have a little more fun. I'm working on letting the clutch out fast without jerking the transmission. From what I've experienced and read/watched on YouTube videos I need to let the clutch out at the right rpm. And that number is different for every gear at every speed; i.e., shifting into 2nd at 20mph requires a different rpm than 30mph. Stop reading and keep driving. It's a muscle memory thing that you do by feel. A clutch is not a performance enhancer.
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Oct 13, 2023 02:13
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Then you can start on learning to blip the throttle for smooth downshifts.
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Oct 13, 2023 02:27
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PainterofCrap posted:Stop reading and keep driving. It's a muscle memory thing that you do by feel. A clutch is not a performance enhancer. This. Driving a manual is 100% feel, and you will get better with practice. Trying to do it by learning maths and watching youtube videos is like watching a robot try to explain love.
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Oct 13, 2023 12:13
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Yeah, though the videos can introduce concepts if you're otherwise going to be in a total vacuum. My dad taught me to drive stick in about thirty seconds, and if it wasn't for the Internet I wouldn't know things like giving it a bit of gas before down shifting. Actually doing that properly is all feel but I wasn't even trying to when I started.
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Oct 13, 2023 13:24
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PainterofCrap posted:Stop reading and keep driving. It's a muscle memory thing that you do by feel. A clutch is not a performance enhancer. That's fair. I just want to minimize the amount of damage I do to the transmission while learning.
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Oct 13, 2023 17:35
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Travic posted:That's fair. I just want to minimize the amount of damage I do to the transmission while learning. You might shorten the life of the clutch by a fraction of a percent compared against somebody who already knew how to drive a manual transmission. If you're not driving like an absolute dong, you'll be okay.
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Oct 13, 2023 17:57
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2007 GTI 6 spd, 150k kms (80k miles) On acceleration and sometimes while turning the wheel back and forth (I can't reproduce this 100%) I'm getting a front end clunk that I feel through the wheel and even the pedals maybe a little. Nothing over bumps, nothing when I rock the car aggressively, doesn't happen when I put the e brake on and apply some torque in 1st (to test engine mounts). This is a CV isn't it? Boots are all intact and driver side was replaced like two years ago. Both sides look in great shape but who knows. E: I wonder if it's this: https://repairpal.com/subframe-clunk-on-acceleration-707 It does sound like it's below the car. Guess this is something to check. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 14, 2023 |
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Oct 14, 2023 01:18
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Probably a CV axle, or possibly tie rod end
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Oct 14, 2023 01:28
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Probably a CV axle, or possibly tie rod end I should mention I grabbed the wheel in both axis and tried my hardest to rock it and couldn't produce any sound. I was thinking possible tie rod end also.
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Oct 14, 2023 01:32
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Yeah, if it only happens when rolling then it’s CV
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Oct 14, 2023 01:40
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Replaced my battery (with a lower tier, they apparently aren’t any direct swaps anywhere in their entire network). On the way home the warning lights started then went off. Annnd now they’re back  Guess I’m gonna have to go get codes read again and see about sourcing the part(s). Not sure if wise to try and grab a junkyard one or not (been doing that lately for my Element, maybe totally pointless here).
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Oct 14, 2023 04:22
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Replaced my battery (with a lower tier, they apparently aren’t any direct swaps anywhere in their entire network). On the way home the warning lights started then went off. Annnd now they’re back What makes you think it's your battery? In my experience even a lower tier battery wouldn't fail that fast - sounds like there's something seriously wrong with your charging system. e: went back looking for your posts and saw where you posted that it's 14.44 across the terminals when it's running. That should be plenty, this seems like something hybrid-y and I have no idea what to do.
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Oct 14, 2023 07:04
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VelociBacon posted:What makes you think it's your battery? In my experience even a lower tier battery wouldn't fail that fast - sounds like there's something seriously wrong with your charging system. The last time I got them to put the code reader on it, I got 61-11 vsa modulator control unit power source low voltage Some of the reading I’d done said replacing the battery seemed to be the best fix. One way or another, insufficient voltage to that unit. I have not yet started trying to dig and figure out where it is to maybe check some voltages and connections along the path. The fact that it goes away sometimes seems to mean the fuse must be ok. The diagnostic alone is $200+ (most shops don’t want anything to do with them) and that part, new, is $1-2k. I started checking junkyards in case the module itself is bad.
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Oct 14, 2023 17:25
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2004 B5.5 Passat 1.8t Replaced heater core which required uncoupling the steering column at the floor and my method of stopping the wheel from spinning failed and now I don't know where "center" is for it. Is there a trick for figuring this out easily and without destroying my clock spring?
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Oct 15, 2023 05:49
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Should be a fairly easy fix. 1. Remove steering wheel (should be able to find a model specific guide online, can be surprisingly easy) 2. Once clock spring is exposed it will either have instructions on centering it, or you do the fool proof method: gently rotate it all the way one way until you encounter resistance. 3. Rotate it the other way, counting the number of turns, until you feel the same resistance. 4. Divide number of rotations in half and spin the clock spring that many times in the opposite direction. And now it'll be centered.
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Oct 15, 2023 05:58
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opengl posted:Anything that's not in your manual under scheduled maintenance (aka almost everything shops and dealers will try to sell you) I have to disagree with this based on industry experience. As manufacturers increasingly try to sell on lowest cost of maintenance, lots of necessary maintenance items have been shaved from the scheduled items. As long as the car has those listed items done, and makes it through the warranty period, it’s not their problem anymore. “Lifetime” differential fluids is the first example that comes to mind. I’ve had cars going back to the 90s with that claim, and 100% don’t believe in it. If you real lifetime to mean the 60k mile warranty period, then sure. While working at Nissan, we recommended diffs at 60k km for hard use or towing, and 80k km for lighter use. Never has problems with our customers’ cars. Every AWD that came to us on a tow truck with blown diffs and transfer cases was serviced elsewhere and had like 2 tablespoons of thin, black diff oil in them. The other item is induction system clean, or valve decarb, or whatever you might see it sold as. The current GDI designs have no fuel running over the valves and they develop more carbon accumulation. In the long term, they fail to seat, cause blow by and misfiring, and oil consumption. When ignored, that snowballs into worse consumption, ring accumulation and wear, and engine damage. Only VW has any decarb interval that I’ve seen. Now Kia has added an after-the-fact decarb treatment once oil consumption has already started. I’d consider these both worthwhile preventive maintenance currently not listed in most brands’ owners manuals.
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Oct 15, 2023 16:11
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mr.belowaverage posted:
Toyota had one for my Corolla. I forget what the interval was, but they recommended it to me and I declined. A bunch of times. Finally went in and had it done and it had an immediate noticeable effect on the engine. It would shake and shudder at times, including on the way to the dealer to get it done. It stopped doing that immediately upon leaving and didn't do it for another 100,000 ish km or so. I was kinda figuring it was just some bullshit service but it worked.
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Oct 15, 2023 16:25
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mr.belowaverage posted:I have to disagree with this based on industry experience. As manufacturers increasingly try to sell on lowest cost of maintenance, lots of necessary maintenance items have been shaved from the scheduled items. As long as the car has those listed items done, and makes it through the warranty period, it’s not their problem anymore. Ford does such great engineering that they covered diff and coolant changes for free on my '13 Mustang V6. One day when it was about 4 years old I woke up and it had pissed all its foul smelling gear oil all over my driveway, the diff cover gasket had given up. Free diff fluid change under warranty! Ford also cared so much about the coolant change interval at 60k that there were sure to make the water pump explode and spray all over at 55k miles. I've never had multiple fluid changes covered under warranty before that car.
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Oct 15, 2023 16:30
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Uthor posted:DON'T DO THIS. They are worn out and who knows if there's holes and stuff. You will get less traction and less life. While in general I agree, the contrarian pedant in me asks: do you buy new tires the instant you buy a used car, every time you buy a used car? Because I don't, unless the tires are obviously aged/worn out already. Outside of that, if you can afford new tires, they're almost always the best option. The only edge case I can think of is if you're driving a vehicle where a lot of new buyers of that vehicle are driving straight to a shop to put on aftermarket wheels and tires - think trucks and Wranglers. Even then you're taking a small gamble on whether or not you'd benefit from the manufacturer's warranty on those tires.
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Oct 15, 2023 17:43
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