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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

spunkshui posted:

The PC is connected to the TV….

The audio comes from the HDMI cable to the TV and then it goes from the TV to an optical cable back the receiver, then the audio goes out to the speakers.

I think I’m OK because my set up is 5.1 only

Digital optical can only carry two channel uncompressed. So it can only carry 5.1 if it has been encoded.

Some games will software encode on the fly but I’m pretty sure it’s not common.

Some hardware will encode on the fly (as was mentioned by Twerk from home) but most people don’t have it.

Which means there are essentially three ways to get surround sound from ~all games that support it:

The three analog cables
HDMI
One of the cards that support encoding on the fly like a Soundblaster Z or Asus D2X

You’re getting 5.1 to your TV via HDMI but I wouldn’t guarantee it’s making it out of your TV via optical.

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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



bird with big dick posted:

Digital optical can only carry two channel uncompressed. So it can only carry 5.1 if it has been encoded.

Some games will software encode on the fly but I’m pretty sure it’s not common.

Some hardware will encode on the fly (as was mentioned by Twerk from home) but most people don’t have it.

Which means there are essentially three ways to get surround sound from ~all games that support it:

The three analog cables
HDMI
One of the cards that support encoding on the fly like a Soundblaster Z or Asus D2X

You’re getting 5.1 to your TV via HDMI but I wouldn’t guarantee it’s making it out of your TV via optical.

Starfield hits up my rear ceiling speakers all the time when walking by talking NPCs so im sure its getting 5.1 channels of data at least.

I go into sound settings and select Dolby Atmos in windows and then at least overwatch and starfield work.

Dr Cheeto
Mar 2, 2013
Wretched Harp
New machine fails to POST. I'm getting a DRAM light. I've tried reseating the RAM or putting it in other slots or using only one stick but nothing seems to work. Should I go ahead and get a new set of RAM? I noted that this SKU is listed as Intel XMP 3.0 ready but it's on the memory support list for an AMD motherboard, what's up with that.

PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Mini MicroATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

Dr Cheeto posted:

New machine fails to POST. I'm getting a DRAM light. I've tried reseating the RAM or putting it in other slots or using only one stick but nothing seems to work. Should I go ahead and get a new set of RAM? I noted that this SKU is listed as Intel XMP 3.0 ready but it's on the memory support list for an AMD motherboard, what's up with that.

You're probably not as dumb as me but what tripped me up when I built my 7700X based system earlier this year was that the very first boot took way longer than normal, like 30+ seconds or so of just a black screen before anything happened.

Dr Cheeto
Mar 2, 2013
Wretched Harp

Incessant Excess posted:

You're probably not as dumb as me but what tripped me up when I built my 7700X based system earlier this year was that the very first boot took way longer than normal, like 30+ seconds or so of just a black screen before anything happened.

Regrettably we are of similar intelligence.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Twerk from Home posted:

They're legitimately great computers and no budget was specified, if somebody asks for the best why not go for the guys who are known not just for a good build / design but also decades of outstanding customer service?

Why buy Origin or Maingear when you could just put it together yourself?

Edit: this came off snarkier than I meant, but if budget is important and you want something quiet you're building it yourself.

I’ve been recommending MainGear to people because their support staff have been great for a couple friends of mine when something was wrong. Very thorough, patient, and get problems fixed with a minimum fuss.

Kibner fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Oct 12, 2023

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo

Incessant Excess posted:

You're probably not as dumb as me but what tripped me up when I built my 7700X based system earlier this year was that the very first boot took way longer than normal, like 30+ seconds or so of just a black screen before anything happened.

Mine still boots slowly until the OS gets going. It’s not like the first boot where I stared in terror but my older DDR4 machine was way faster.

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr

Well Played Mauer posted:

Mine still boots slowly until the OS gets going. It’s not like the first boot where I stared in terror but my older DDR4 machine was way faster.

Your DDR4 machine didn't have to "train" its ram, or whatever the poo poo DDR5 does.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

DDR4 systems had to train their memory too, they were just faster about it. There may be a "memory context restore" option you can enable to speed things up there.

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Speaking of memory...
I just put together a new computer. AMD B650 motherboard, Ryzen 5 7600, and an AMD rx6750xt. 32gb Vengeance DDR5-6000 ram.

I was having BSOD crashes, stop code was "memory management". I figured it was because I had enabled XMP, which brought the clock to 6000mhz, whereas AMD says the highest supported speed for the Ryzen 5 7600 is 5200mhz. So I disabled XMP and manually set the speed to 5200. (Base clock speed of the ram without XMP enabled is 4800).
Still had crashes though.

I then set the ram to 4800 because I thought maybe by changing it manually without changing the voltage I was creating problems.

Currently running memtest86 to be sure. So far it has found 2842 errors on the first pass.

Couple questions; 1. This is bad ram regardless of my playing with the speed in the bios?
2. If I replace it with another set of 6000mhz ram (because the store will likely just swap it like-for-like) and that ram is Good, can I then enable XMP, even though it's beyond the 5200 that AMD says the processor supports? Or should I get ram that tops out at 5200?

Edit: forgot to mention, the first thing I did was fully update all drivers, including the motherboard.

stratdax fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 13, 2023

WHY BONER NOW
Mar 6, 2016

Pillbug
PC goons, I have a question. I play Hunt Showdown on the lowest settings. Crytek announced they are going to update the game engine April 2024, and the new minimum specs are beyond my computer. I'm due for a new one anyway and I'd like to splurge a little this time...but since I have six months until the game updates, what is the least stupid way to go about building a new computer? Should I spec one out now and spend the next few months waiting for sales on the parts?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



stratdax posted:

Speaking of memory...
I just put together a new computer. AMD B650 motherboard, Ryzen 5 7600, and an AMD rx6750xt. 32gb Vengeance DDR5-6000 ram.

I was having BSOD crashes, stop code was "memory management". I figured it was because I had enabled XMP, which brought the clock to 6000mhz, whereas AMD says the highest supported speed for the Ryzen 5 7600 is 5200mhz. So I disabled XMP and manually set the speed to 5200. (Base clock speed of the ram without XMP enabled is 4800).
Still had crashes though.

I then set the ram to 4800 because I thought maybe by changing it manually without changing the voltage I was creating problems.

Few long shots, maybe the CAS LATENCY was wrong?

Take the ram out and pop it back in in case it was not fully inserted.

Try a single stick at a time to see if 1 stick is bad.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



WHY BONER NOW posted:

PC goons, I have a question. I play Hunt Showdown on the lowest settings. Crytek announced they are going to update the game engine April 2024, and the new minimum specs are beyond my computer. I'm due for a new one anyway and I'd like to splurge a little this time...but since I have six months until the game updates, what is the least stupid way to go about building a new computer? Should I spec one out now and spend the next few months waiting for sales on the parts?

Yeah, especially things that wont change in 6 months like the case, fans, power supply, DDR5, SSD, pretty power extension cables ect ect.

Intel will have new chips in under 6 months though.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Intel's new chips are coming within a month, but they will be a refresh of their current lineup, so don't expect any big gains there. AMD's new chips are coming early next year and are expected to be a whole new Zen generation.

There's also some light murmuring about a potential GPU lineup refresh from Nvidia happening in the near-ish future, but it won't be a whole new generation. Still, we could see some further improvements to the pricing situation.

Generally, I suggest not building a new PC for a new game months in advance. Pricing almost always gets better over time.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum
Here's a question - I have a Corsair Hydro Series H115i Pro 280mm CPU Cooler in my current build with my i7 8700k which I got back in 2018. Would it be fine to use for my new build with a i7 13700k on a different mobo? I'm not sure if it's compatible or not, or whether it would just be worth changing out the cooler as well since it's a few years old now? I was going to get the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 in the new build, but could save a bit of money if I could use my current cooler?

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

Aphex- posted:

Here's a question - I have a Corsair Hydro Series H115i Pro 280mm CPU Cooler in my current build with my i7 8700k which I got back in 2018. Would it be fine to use for my new build with a i7 13700k on a different mobo? I'm not sure if it's compatible or not, or whether it would just be worth changing out the cooler as well since it's a few years old now? I was going to get the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 in the new build, but could save a bit of money if I could use my current cooler?

The H115i Pro is compatible with sockets 1150/​1151/​1155/​1156/​1200, 1356/​1366, 2011-0/​2011-1/​2011-3/​2066, meaning the required 1700 is unfortunately missing. If you're going with a new cooler, as it seems you must, consider Thermalrights newer, and presumably slightly improved, Phantom Spirit 120.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

Incessant Excess posted:

The H115i Pro is compatible with sockets 1150/​1151/​1155/​1156/​1200, 1356/​1366, 2011-0/​2011-1/​2011-3/​2066, meaning the required 1700 is unfortunately missing. If you're going with a new cooler, as it seems you must, consider Thermalrights newer, and presumably slightly improved, Phantom Spirit 120.

Oh nice, thanks for that! Didn't realise there was a newer one out, and it's actually cheaper too so that works out.

WHY BONER NOW
Mar 6, 2016

Pillbug
Thanks guys, guess I'll keep my ear to the ground and see what comes up

Joker
Aug 6, 2001

Joker posted:

Would appreciate any feedback on this build.


What country are you in? US
Do you live near Microcenter? Yes
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? Gaming and light photo/video editing
What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.$2000, have peripherals
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get. 1440p 144hz. Would like high/ultra settings for games
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? Not really, just home use of photoshop/gimp/various video editing software

Is there benefit in going with a x670 mobo? Would it have any impact on the video card or ram? I don’t really plan on updating anything in this system over the years and will likely just do a whole new build in 5 or so years.

**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | $349.00 @ Amazon
**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hYxRsY/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3) | $34.90 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [MSI PRO X670-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jJhFf7/msi-pro-x670-p-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-pro-x670-p-wifi) | $198.99 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg2WGX/gskill-trident-z5-neo-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040g32gx2-tz5n) | $194.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $129.99 @ Adorama
**Video Card** | [MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NHzXsY/msi-ventus-2x-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-12-gb-video-card-rtx-4070-ventus-2x-12g-oc) | $549.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4svdnQ/fractal-design-torrent-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-tor1a-05) | $189.99 @ B&H
**Power Supply** | [Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/26rRsY/corsair-rm850x-2021-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020200-na) | $134.99 @ Amazon
| **Total** | **$1782.84**

Hoping to get some feedback on this before I start buying parts. Would appreciate anyone’s thoughts as I don’t have a ton of experience building.

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





Aphex- posted:

Oh nice, thanks for that! Didn't realise there was a newer one out, and it's actually cheaper too so that works out.

Thermalright has a ton of variations of two tower designs and they're all good to great, varying in things like the fan configuration and the heat pipe count and diameter - there's the Peerless Assassin, Phantom Spirit, Frost Spirit and Frost Commander, plus the Silver Soul for ITX and confined spaces

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Joker posted:

Hoping to get some feedback on this before I start buying parts. Would appreciate anyone’s thoughts as I don’t have a ton of experience building.
I think that looks pretty solid and is pretty similar to what I was looking at building. I'm also quasi in the market (just holding out a bit longer) and really see no difference to go X670 over B650 practically speaking.

That said, I've had good luck with MSI motherboards.

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

Joker posted:

Hoping to get some feedback on this before I start buying parts. Would appreciate anyone’s thoughts as I don’t have a ton of experience building.

The components you've chosen would also easily fit the smaller Torrent Compact, with the North also worth considering for it's alternative aesthetics. You could save a bit of money by getting 2x16gb of RAM, as the doubling to 64gb would not be hugely beneficial to your stated use case.

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





Joker posted:

Hoping to get some feedback on this before I start buying parts. Would appreciate anyone’s thoughts as I don’t have a ton of experience building.

Nothing is making me mad or sad about this in general and it'd work fine, but some thoughts:

-You wouldn't lose much of anything by moving down to a B650, the difference this generation with AMD is mainly in how much stuff you can plug into the motherboard and rear I/O. If you find a B650 with enough ports and slots and guff for you, it should work fine.

-If the video and photo editing are just hobbyist and this is mainly going to be a gaming system, consider saving some money by moving down to a 32gb kit. The extra memory will help with the productivity apps, but games are just now starting to breach past wanting 16gb.

-Living near a Microcenter, you might wanna poke around their site to see if there's any better deals on anything for local pickup. They get excluded from a lot of sites like PCP because their best deals are in store only and Microcenters are rarer than hen's teeth. They've also got some great bundles, too, if you're not 100% settled on a build.

e:f,b

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Generally, I suggest not building a new PC for a new game months in advance. Pricing almost always gets better over time.
This is a really good rule of thumb. I built my new desktop in April in anticipation of Diablo 4 but waiting until June would’ve been better.

(I gave up on D4 shortly into season 1 but the new desktop is still nice)

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

186gb left on my 1tb SX8200 and I'm getting anxious. Time to upgrade to a 2tb. Is it worthwhile going in depth comparing drives with an old z390 board? I guess this drive will likely helm my refresh I'm planning next year pending my work bonus so I want it to be good.

I haven't been following too closely, but I've read Samsung aren't the darlings of the SSD world anymore? That still current? I've always been partial to WD and have been considering one of their Black drives. I have a WD blue SATA m.2 as my secondary drive, I guess this is a board/CPU specific issue but should I keep it that way or move the SX into it's spot, or would that take up too much PCIe bandwidth? Not that I'll notice any performance difference in using either as a secondary drive.

Drone_Fragger
May 9, 2007


Thanks for the help again all - got it all built now, and it really puts my old build to shame. Games that were struggling to hold 30 fps on the lowest settings are happily now running at ultra settings on a locked 60 fps - despite using the same graphics card. Really just shows how badly my old 2500k was bottlenecking everything. Chrome additionally can now load two tabs and only uses 42% of the ram which still leaves 58% for gaming.

Caved and got an m2 ssd as people suggested - mainly because my original plan of plugging the new 2tb drive into my old pc to back up data off and then wipe my existing 2.5" sata SSD to act as a boot device was growing legs something fierce and this meant I can just plug everything in and copy in situ. Much easier and worth 55 quid.

Some build notes:

- Corsair 4000D is a very nice case and i'd recommend it - but the warnings on the psu being a tight fit are true. If you're shoving a 1000w psu in there expect to have no hard disk trays.
- likewise all the cables with the corsair 750RMe are like 6 inches too short. Had to unpleasantly bend the 24 pin atx cable more than Id like to do so. Honestly hot sure why mobo companies arent putting the 24 pins and cpu power connectors at 90 degrees now, it makes much more sense with modern cases with the wider form factors that allow rear cable management.
- the corsair 4000d has 6 120mm fans, but theres no sane place to put a fan controller except the back of the cpu heatsink support. Everywhere else is either full of holes or full of cable mounting points.
- this is likely because my old case is an antec p180b but the corsair 4000d feels kinda lightweight? Maybe just me. All the edges are nicely rounded and rolled though so unlike a p180 didnt cut my hand up.
-lga1700 sockets are terrifying to install. The clamp is unpleasantly strong and constantly felt like I was about to flatten all the pins. It was fine though. The clamp squeezed out more of the thermal paste out of the socket though than i'd like.

Does this thread allow picture's or is there a "post your build" thread somewhere? I had a look and couldn't spot one.

Drone_Fragger fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Oct 14, 2023

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Drone_Fragger posted:

The clamp squeezed out more of the thermal paste out of the socket though than i'd like.

:stonklol:

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Drone_Fragger posted:

The clamp squeezed out more of the thermal paste out of the socket though than i'd like.

Does this thread allow picture's or is there a "post your build" thread somewhere? I had a look and couldn't spot one.

...You mean when you mounted your CPU cooler, right? Right?

And yeah, feel free to post pictures.

edit: seriously, the amount of thermal paste squeezed out when inserting the CPU and pushing down the retention lever should be zero because there shouldn't be any applied at that point. ...dare I ask where the thermal paste was applied?

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Oct 14, 2023

Joker
Aug 6, 2001

slidebite posted:

I think that looks pretty solid and is pretty similar to what I was looking at building. I'm also quasi in the market (just holding out a bit longer) and really see no difference to go X670 over B650 practically speaking.

That said, I've had good luck with MSI motherboards.

Incessant Excess posted:

The components you've chosen would also easily fit the smaller Torrent Compact, with the North also worth considering for it's alternative aesthetics. You could save a bit of money by getting 2x16gb of RAM, as the doubling to 64gb would not be hugely beneficial to your stated use case.

DoombatINC posted:

Nothing is making me mad or sad about this in general and it'd work fine, but some thoughts:

-You wouldn't lose much of anything by moving down to a B650, the difference this generation with AMD is mainly in how much stuff you can plug into the motherboard and rear I/O. If you find a B650 with enough ports and slots and guff for you, it should work fine.

-If the video and photo editing are just hobbyist and this is mainly going to be a gaming system, consider saving some money by moving down to a 32gb kit. The extra memory will help with the productivity apps, but games are just now starting to breach past wanting 16gb.

-Living near a Microcenter, you might wanna poke around their site to see if there's any better deals on anything for local pickup. They get excluded from a lot of sites like PCP because their best deals are in store only and Microcenters are rarer than hen's teeth. They've also got some great bundles, too, if you're not 100% settled on a build.

e:f,b

Thanks for this advice. I’m going to take all of these suggestions. Much appreciated!

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

...You mean when you mounted your CPU cooler, right? Right?

And yeah, feel free to post pictures.

edit: seriously, the amount of thermal paste squeezed out when inserting the CPU and pushing down the retention lever should be zero because there shouldn't be any applied at that point. ...dare I ask where the thermal paste was applied?
I assume {hope) he means when tightening up the HSF?

In my experience HSF that come with thermal paste come with way too much for a single usage.

Gunshow Poophole
Sep 14, 2008

OMBUDSMAN
POSTERS LOCAL 42069




Clapping Larry
electricity is... like a KIND of heat.

alternatively, there's gonna be a lot more than heat sunk if that's where the paste ended up...

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

...You mean when you mounted your CPU cooler, right? Right?

And yeah, feel free to post pictures.

edit: seriously, the amount of thermal paste squeezed out when inserting the CPU and pushing down the retention lever should be zero because there shouldn't be any applied at that point. ...dare I ask where the thermal paste was applied?

this is why I always buy an extra tube besides the one they give you with the cooler. I want to be able to do a whole tube under the processor and a whole tube above it so I don't get runaway heat problems!

Zoya
Jun 12, 2023

echoes of a distant past,
bodies die but voices last.
once were held within a cell,
your mind is where these voices dwell.




DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


I think I'm finally doing a new build this coming year. My current build is from 2015 and has somehow weathered all the crap I've put it through. It's really showing its age though. My plan is to have it set up before the new FFXIV expansion releases next summer.

I'm gonna start putting together builds and comparing prices soon. One thing I wanted to ask about while I do that: I noticed Costco of all places is starting to sell prebuilt PCs. Has anyone had any luck with these, or done any research into them to see if they're worth it? I've been noting the prices and components but haven't taken the time to compare them to self-built prices yet. The local Costco has been offering two builds from two different suppliers, one with an RTX 30 series and one with a 40 series. Just wondering if anyone else has seen them.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

No, but if you post some links or photos of the spec sheets we might be able to give some recommendations (most likely: run away)

DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


Wibla posted:

No, but if you post some links or photos of the spec sheets we might be able to give some recommendations (most likely: run away)

Here's the latest two they had. Hopefully at a glance you could just say "lol no" and that's all I need to know.



slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

That ibuypower will likely come with only 1 stick of RAM and according to that label no NVME/SSD. Both are fixable.

MSI generally is OK with the biggest issues being case airflow from what I remember and shovelware. They're generally solid enough components.

Both are likely built with industry standard components so you're not handcuffed and can upgrade/change. You could do worse for both.

The .97 suffix at Costco usually means discontinued.

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





They're decent enough components in a vacuum but I wouldn't buy one because a) a lot of the parts are mismatched power-wise (a 13700 on DDR4 backing a 3060? a 2tb HDD in a $1600 computer?) and b) you could save several hundred dollars over those prices and have a more powerful system by building it yourself

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.
What's the typical pc sound setup these days?

My new motherboard doesn't have the ports for the 5 speaker/subwoofer config I had.

Are soundbars the modern standard now or has everyone generally regressed to headphones if they want sound or something?

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Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo
Most people serious about sound/believe in magic have a DAC that plugs into a USB port and then pushes the audio either into a speaker or headphone setup, sometimes with amplification. Apparently most modern boards have built-in DACs that are good enough for most of what you'd want to do. The other option is HDMI out to something else, I believe. I'm just getting into this after my Astro A50s broke so take what I'm saying as marginally researched but in no way comprehensive.

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