Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Facebook Aunt
Oct 4, 2008

wiggle wiggle




I gotta be honest with you, that's a very old dad joke. But thanks to Beachcomber for the set up.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

BigBadSteve
Apr 29, 2009

This but the scale model of Everest and a Ken or Barbie doll representing Facebook Aunt

dr_rat
Jun 4, 2001

Facebook Aunt posted:

I gotta be honest with you, that's a very old dad joke. But thanks to Beachcomber for the set up.

Old dad jokes are still good if you get the timing right!

Or if you're an old dad I guess?

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

BigBadSteve posted:

This but the scale model of Everest and a Ken or Barbie doll representing Facebook Aunt



My sad existence feels seen

Mumpy Puffinz
Aug 11, 2008
Nap Ghost

BigBadSteve posted:

This but the scale model of Everest and a Ken or Barbie doll representing Facebook Aunt



I did that one time

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Tangental, but a while ago a few folks made charitable donations and I got this endearingly low-key email today from one of them, APA Sherpa Foundation:

https://mailchi.mp/apasherpa/apa-sherpa-foundation-updates?e=e365177120

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Some Redditors claimed to have climbed the world’s highest peak that was climbable without breaking local laws, Muchu Chhish.

They’re big fat liars.

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

Cave diving definitely has that thing in common with high altitude mountain climbing, doesn't matter how good or experienced you are. Water-filled caves and mountains want to loving kill you.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/tr...2fptaskbar&ei=9

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

Cave diving definitely has that thing in common with high altitude mountain climbing, doesn't matter how good or experienced you are. Water-filled caves and mountains want to loving kill you.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/tr...2fptaskbar&ei=9

1000 years from not cyber-humans are going to be spelunking through nuclear waste dumps while techno-goons post about it.

Plucky Brit
Nov 7, 2009

Swing low, sweet chariot

Outrail posted:

1000 years from not cyber-humans are going to be spelunking through nuclear waste dumps while techno-goons post about it.
At the Sellafield fuel ponds you could do some diving in highly radioactive water.

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

Water-filled caves and mountains want to loving kill you.

As I was saying...

Two climbers were in a race to be the first American woman to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks in the world. Both died in avalanches on the same mountain, Shishapangma, which was also the last one that both needed to complete the achievement. Awful.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/ne...fptaskbar&ei=14

Desert Bus
May 9, 2004

Take 1 tablet by mouth daily.

Outrail posted:

1000 years from not cyber-humans are going to be spelunking through nuclear waste dumps while techno-goons post about it.

There is a short story by someone called something where people take drugs to speedrun through disasters?

EDIT: I think "Three Moments of an Explosion" by China Miéville

Desert Bus fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 13, 2023

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

Desert Bus posted:

There is a short story by someone called something where people take drugs to speedrun through disasters?

EDIT: I think "Three Moments of an Explosion" by China Miéville

Yeah I just smoke weed to get me though this disaster*, it's working so far.

*The 2020s

Magic Underwear
May 14, 2003


Young Orc

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

As I was saying...

Two climbers were in a race to be the first American woman to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks in the world. Both died in avalanches on the same mountain, Shishapangma, which was also the last one that both needed to complete the achievement. Awful.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/ne...fptaskbar&ei=14

I'm really sad that the sherpas died.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
Yeah can we have rule that any mention of climbers dying has to also acknowledge how many support staff were killed alongside them?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Outrail posted:

Yeah can we have rule that any mention of climbers dying has to also acknowledge how many support staff were killed alongside them?

That feels very 2013-GBS

wheatpuppy
Apr 25, 2008

YOU HAVE MY POST!

knox_harrington posted:

That feels very 2013-GBS

I don't think Darfur orphans are allowed at base camp without a corporate sponsor.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Who was closer though?

PostNouveau
Sep 3, 2011

VY till I die
Grimey Drawer

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

Cave diving definitely has that thing in common with high altitude mountain climbing, doesn't matter how good or experienced you are. Water-filled caves and mountains want to loving kill you.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/tr...2fptaskbar&ei=9

It's crazy to me they attempt body recoveries in these situations. Like, that super experienced guy dying in there is plenty of reason for no one else to go in, especially not to do something as complicated as a recovery.

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
I think people just want an excuse to go cave diving, and recovering someone's loved one allows them to justify the danger.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



They definitely get off doing something somebody else just died doing

bob dobbs is dead
Oct 8, 2017

I love peeps
Nap Ghost
they're even starting up genocide in darfur again

dr_rat
Jun 4, 2001

bob dobbs is dead posted:

they're even starting up genocide in darfur again

When will the UN see these genocidal divers finally brought to justice. :(

ChaseSP
Mar 25, 2013



Sounds like a task for Sea Patrol

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Dead Nerve
Mar 27, 2007

"TO OBSERVE AND CRITIQUE" Just like this thread.

PostNouveau
Sep 3, 2011

VY till I die
Grimey Drawer
https://twitter.com/TheOnion/status/1716964037995475289

“At a certain point, you’re kind of bringing it on yourself. Plus, if you have that much disposable income and, of all the things you could do with that money, you choose to spend it on this—well, we’re actually okay with you dying. It may sound harsh, but we’re gonna get along just fine without you.” At press time, sources confirmed no candlelight vigils were being held at the foot of Mount Everest.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

PostNouveau posted:

https://twitter.com/TheOnion/status/1716964037995475289

“At a certain point, you’re kind of bringing it on yourself. Plus, if you have that much disposable income and, of all the things you could do with that money, you choose to spend it on this—well, we’re actually okay with you dying. It may sound harsh, but we’re gonna get along just fine without you.” At press time, sources confirmed no candlelight vigils were being held at the foot of Mount Everest.

Only because there isn't enough oxygen for candles.

Typical media reporting!

Switchback
Jul 23, 2001

I know some folks weren’t in love with the Australian season of Alone but I thought it was great and I’ve gone to a few events with one of the contestants, Gina Chick. She had a powerful emotional story that was perfect for reality TV, but also, she’s just literally one of the most incredible people I’ve ever heard of. She does survival workshops and that sort of thing, but she also does a monthly 5 rhythms dance session, which is a silent meditative dance that goes on for like 4 hours. It’s a little bit culty but less so than the Wim Hoff people. Gina has faced the most profound grief a person can face, and now she says “there are no emotions I am afraid of,” which is a cool environment to create. I’m really glad I watched her story on Alone and have gone to her dances because her emotional fortitude and resilience is incredible and I can only hope to some day be able to confront my demons with her grace.

Her blog is good if you like stories about how people survive (both in wild adventure settings and through grief): https://www.wildheart.life/gina-chick--gigi-blog

Canuckistan
Jan 14, 2004

I'm the greatest thing since World War III.





Soiled Meat
At first I thought she was the token weird new-age older woman, doomed to go out early. After a few episodes I really started to like her personally and I was really happy when she won.. I'm not sure about the 4 hour silent dancing, but I'm glad that she's living life her way.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4odDLDooTgs

Its engineering!

Dead Nerve
Mar 27, 2007


That was a fun listen even if its more geared to people who haven't deep dived down the mountaineering rabbit hole yet because of this thread. Some fun humor and an overall interesting presentation about Everest.

Empty Sandwich
Apr 22, 2008

goatse mugs
NYT article about an incredibly difficult climb.

---


Three American Climbers Solve the ‘Last Great Problem in the Himalayas’

Scaling Mount Jannu’s north face without fixed ropes or oxygen was “the greatest climb ever,” one expert said, far more difficult than reaching the summit of Everest.

John Branch

By John Branch

Reporting from Salt Lake City

Dec. 1, 2023Updated 12:04 p.m. ET

Three American climbers lay in the dark, sharing a custom-made sleeping bag on a portable ledge dangling from a massive cliff high in the Himalayas. They were anchored to the north face of Mount Jannu, one of the world’s biggest, sheerest rock walls.

The void below them was 10,000 feet of thin black air. Above them, within reach, was something most people can only imagine.

“I know we still have a lot to do,” Alan Rousseau said to his two fellow climbers. “But I feel like we just did something cool.”

The next day, Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell — little known outside of climbing circles, for the moment — stood at Jannu’s summit. Before them were the white tips of other major peaks, including Everest and Kangchenjunga.

They may not have had the full perspective. That is now coming from other top mountaineers see the group’s ascent of Jannu’s north face as a monumental achievement.

“In my mind, it’s the greatest climb ever — the greatest Alpine climb,” said Mark Synnott, a renowned climber and author who was stymied by Jannu’s north face in 2000 and called it the “last great problem in the Himalayas.”

At 25,295 feet, Jannu — with its remote location and combination of height, steepness and altitude — is one of the most daunting peaks for climbers. Its north face, especially, has stirred and vexed mountaineers.

Others had been to the top of Jannu, though not many. None had done this route in following the minimal ethos of an Alpine-style ascent: no supplemental oxygen, no ropes fixed in advance, no porters beyond base camp.

The three men used only what they could carry on their backs.

“It’s the simplest way of doing something,” Rousseau said. “You just begin at the bottom and go to the top.”
ImageAlan Rousseau, in a hooded ribbed jacket; Matt Cornell, in a North Face hoodie; and Jackson Marvell, in a blue windbreaker, stand with their hands in their pockets on a bluff overlooking Salt Lake City.
From left, Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell succeeded in climbing the north face of Mount Jannu on their third try.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times
Alan Rousseau, in a hooded ribbed jacket; Matt Cornell, in a North Face hoodie; and Jackson Marvell, in a blue windbreaker, stand with their hands in their pockets on a bluff overlooking Salt Lake City.

Rousseau, Cornell and Marvell gathered in Utah last week to share their story for the first time — the yearslong dream; the day-to-day struggle to ascend nearly two miles of mostly sheer rock and ice; the blackened, frostbitten fingertips that still needed to heal.

The three climbers had not yet fully processed their achievement.

“We did something we didn’t think was possible,” Rousseau said. “It gave us the realization that we can climb in one of the biggest arenas out there.”

They called their expedition “Round-trip Ticket,” in a nod to Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov, who completed an Alpine ascent of Jannu’s west pillar in 2007.

“Perhaps some day, a pair will climb a direct route on the north face in Alpine style,” Kofanov wrote in 2017, “but they’ll need to accept the likelihood that they’re buying themselves a one-way ticket.”
Camping in a Crevasse

The expedition began with a 30-hour drive from Kathmandu, Nepal. A hiking trek to base camp began at 5,000 feet of elevation, and for six days the climbers used porters and pack animals to climb out of swampy junglelike terrain.

Base camp was established at the foot of Jannu’s north face in a meadow at 15,500 feet. Arriving Sept. 17, the climbers acclimated to the altitude and studied forecasts, searching for a weeklong window of clear weather.

In early October, they found a promising stretch.

“It removed a lot of stress,” Marvell said.

They prepared their climbing packs, taking advantage of ever-improving gear. Climbing tools — ice axes, crampons, ice screws, pitons and so on — are stronger and lighter than ever.

So are ropes. The climbers used two ropes, each 60 meters long. One was a nine-millimeter nylon rope for climbing, the other a thinner one so that the lead climber could lift gear, allowing teammates to concentrate and ascend without cargo on their backs.

They carried dehydrated food. They had one stove, one pot and one two-pound sleeping bag, wide enough to fit three men, the better for body warmth.
Image
Marvell, left, and Rousseau preparing their inflatable portaledges.Credit...Matt Cornell
Marvell, left, and Rousseau preparing their inflatable portaledges.
Image
At night, the climbers slept while hanging off the mountainside.Credit...Jackson Marvell
At night, the climbers slept while hanging off the mountainside.

The most helpful technical innovation might have been the two inflatable single-person portaledges, hanging perches that could be anchored to cliff sides so that climbers could rest. The climbers fastened the portaledges side-by-side and slept with their heads resting against the rock, their feet out over the void.

The climb began on a Saturday in October. It was “mixed” climbing, meaning a mix of rock, snow and ice, with the men rotating into the lead position.

The first two days involved about 6,000 vertical feet of climbing, 60 meters of rope at a time.

They slept the first night at 19,000 feet, in a crack “where the glacier movement separates away from the ice that’s stuck to the mountain face,” Rousseau said. “Which sounds crazy to a lot of people, that we camped inside a crevasse, essentially.”

They could feel and hear the movement of the glacial ice.

“It’s just wild to see how fast that is pulling away from the mountain and how active it is,” Marvell said.

Such instability was a constant danger. Falling rock and ice routinely showered the men. Shards sliced through their tarp, as they rested on their portaledges at night, but caused no injuries.

“They weren’t big enough to hurt you,” Cornell said of the shards. “They would just destroy all your gear.”

On the fourth day, Cornell was below Rousseau and Marvell when he saw them disappear in a cloud of falling ice and snow.

“Oh, God, they’re going to be killed by this thing, it’s going to rip the anchor out, and then it’s going to pull me down because I’m attached to the rope,” Cornell recalled thinking. “So I was just bracing, ready to be sent down the mountain. And then it all, like, clears past them, and they’re moving around, like, We’re good!”

The men laughed together at the retelling. They slept that night in the pocket that the fallen chunk of ice had left behind. The hood of Marvell’s jacket was sliced open in the episode. “I was blowing feathers the rest of the climb,” he said.

Cornell led the group through a long block of technical pitches on the fifth day, as the men moved beyond the apexes of other Alpine-style attempts. They were nearing the top of the north face.

“Improbability faded away,” Marvell said.
Image
Rousseau and Marvell, seen as two figures ascending the snowy face of a mountain, as the sun glows on the horizon above them.
Rousseau and Marvell on the shoulder atop Mount Jannu’s head wall.Credit...Matt Cornell
Rousseau and Marvell, seen as two figures ascending the snowy face of a mountain, as the sun glows on the horizon above them.

On a 10-hour sixth day, they reached the top of the wall — the real goal — and climbed a tricky but nonvertical stretch toward the summit.

Before getting there, Marvell took a glove off and found his fingers blistered, a sign of severe frostbite. The men discussed options.

“We’re 100 meters from the top, and we have the weather window of the decade,” Marvell said. “Is it worth potentially losing the tip of a finger, you know, or will this frostbite get worse? And it seemed to me to be worth the risk.”

They reached Jannu’s summit at 4:20 p.m. on Oct. 12 and stayed for just a few minutes. The mission was never the top but the climb.

“Getting to the top of Jannu was kind of like crossing the ‘t’ and dotting the ‘i,’” Rousseau said.
The Height Is Not the Point

Their accomplishment has the climbing world buzzing. It represents a tonic to the media-obsessed, big-money, guide-led, fixed-rope conga-line parades on mountains like Everest. Such mass upward migrations do not interest blue-collar mountaineers like these.

“I have been asked a couple of times if I climbed the north face of Jannu to train to eventually climb Everest,” Rousseau said. He shook his head. “It’s a different sport than that sport.”

For alpinists, the public’s fascination with the highest mountains is a bit like judging an ocean swimmer by how deep the water is. Marvell has had similar queries from well-meaning acquaintances: How high is Jannu?

“That’s not really the point,” he said.

Hundreds typically reach the summit of Everest every spring. Those with the skill, strength and imagination to consider the likes of Jannu’s north face, with a willingness to dare to be first, might number in the tens.

The mountain’s 3,000-foot head wall, parts of it overhanging and spackled in corniced snow and ice, is roughly the size of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. The section foiled previous attempts, including one by Ueli Steck and three others nearly two decades ago.

In 2004, about a dozen Russians laid siege to Jannu’s north face, drilling it with bolts, draping it with dozens of fixed ropes, swapping out men when they became hurt or exhausted. The nearly two-month expedition succeeded and was considered an extraordinary feat, earning the Russians a Piolet d’Or, alpine climbing’s top award.

This was not that. This was three men, two ropes and one shared sleeping bag.
Image
Rousseau is recovering from frostbite on his fingers.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times
Rousseau is recovering from frostbite on his fingers.
Image
Climbing gear at Rousseau’s home in Salt Lake City.Credit...Spenser Heaps for The New York Times
Climbing gear at Rousseau’s home in Salt Lake City.

“It was much more a kind of personal thing as opposed to, like, what outside statement it made about anything,” Rousseau said of their climb.

Conrad Anker, a leading mountaineer of the past several decades, considers the Alpine-style climb of Jannu’s north face to be a generational feat. He called it “an antidote to fixed-rope, high-altitude tourism.”

“There are so many different ways we play with gravity on cliffs,” Anker said. “This is the purest, the most demanding, the ultimate expression.”

Anker, 61, said that he had reviewed the past 30 years of Piolet d’Or winners, and “there is no climb that matches this.”

He was part of a three-man team, with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk, that scaled an improbable route up Mount Meru, another vaunted Himalayan peak, in 2011. That expedition was detailed in the award-winning documentary, “Meru.”

“Meru pales in comparison to this,” Anker said, citing Jannu’s greater length, height and elevation.

Rousseau, Cornell and Marvell have been climbing together for about four years, in pairs and sometimes together. Two previous attempts on Jannu’s north face, in 2021 and 2022, ended early but were valuable scouting trips. Last year, the three scaled what Climbing magazine called “one of the most legendary lines in North American alpinism”: the Slovak Direct route on Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, in Alaska.

“That was sort of a trial run, to see how we all jibe together, moving through that kind of terrain,” Rousseau said. “And that worked out pretty well for us.”

Now they are climbing’s newest power throuple.
Image
Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell in insulated jackets and climbing helmets, posing on Mount Jannu.
Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell on Mount Jannu. “You feel the vibes from partners and you can also, like, feel a vibe or energy that the mountain is giving off,” Cornell said.Credit...Jackson Marvell
Cornell, Rousseau and Marvell in insulated jackets and climbing helmets, posing on Mount Jannu.

Rousseau, 37, is married and lives along the foothills in Salt Lake City. He guides climbers in Utah and beyond. Experience in leading others makes him the logistical leader and a calculated voice when circumstances demand difficult decisions.

Cornell, 29, is known as a quiet, compact free-solo (no rope) ice climber. He usually spends winters near Bozeman, Mont., and summers around the rock-climbing hub of Yosemite National Park, working at a restaurant (owned by Anker, a mentor) to help fund his pursuits. He lives in a 2003 Freightliner van, with 320,000 miles, fitted with a bed, stove and other amenities.

Marvell, 27, lives in Heber City, Utah, and has a few sponsorship deals and also his own welding business. Tall and wiry, he spends summers off the coast of Alaska, climbing up and rappelling down oil platforms, timing repair work with the tides. Having grown up in Utah, he was drawn toward the sandstone towers of the desert and was willing to attempt just about anything.

Cornell noted the trusting relationship the three men have built and the necessity of perfect harmony during an expedition.

“You feel the vibes from partners and you can also, like, feel a vibe or energy that the mountain is giving off that year as well,” Cornell said.

This fall, he said, “just felt like really positive energy going into the trip, real positive energy during the trip. The mountain felt a lot more welcoming and friendly to us.”

The descent from Jannu’s summit, by a series of rappels that hopscotched back down the face, stretched to midnight the next day. By then, Rousseau, too, had frostbite across his fingers. After a day at base camp, the men flew in a helicopter back to Kathmandu, where Rousseau and Marvell spent five days in a hospital, getting their hands treated.

Healing continues, and the men hope not to lose any fingertips.

The three already have plans for another monumental climb.

They do not include Everest. Something bigger.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
Absolutely nuts, but the good kind of nuts.

Empty Sandwich posted:

The three already have plans for another monumental climb.

They do not include Everest. Something bigger.

Olympus Mons

Zefiel
Sep 14, 2007

You can do whatever you want in life.


I missed this when it happened, had to catch it in a "recap of the year" thing in the news here. This is our highest mountain/ volcano. I think they ought to do it without safety lines. :colbert:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxeoijOFkVM

Empty Sandwich
Apr 22, 2008

goatse mugs
another NYT article about climbing.

this one's about an American expedition in Argentina in 1973. two people died. one of them was carrying a camera, and that just reappeared a couple years ago.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004

коммунизм хранится в яичках

Outrail posted:

Absolutely nuts, but the good kind of nuts.

Yeah, I can respect that kind of climb. Not basically limping up a grade while Sherpa do all the work, but going up with what they're carrying and nobody at risk that didn't sign up for it. Still think they're crazy, but it's relatively harmless crazy.

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

Outrail posted:

Absolutely nuts, but the good kind of nuts.

Olympus Mons

Olympus Mons is huge, the size of Italy, but it's a very gentle slope. You could trivially walk up it and barely be aware you were on a mountain. If it weren't on Mars.

I know you might know this but I think it's interesting!

TEMPLE GRANDIN OS
Dec 10, 2003

...blyat
and from the base, the peak is over the horizon iirc

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

TEMPLE GRANDIN OS posted:

and from the base, the peak is over the horizon iirc

Yeah that's right. You can't see the whole mountain from ground level because it's too big, it disappears over the curve of the planet.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply