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Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I really gotta stop trying to light these guys. It's just not going to happen with how little these lamps spit out. Maybe I should just go outside or something



Another Genestealer hybrid done!

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN








Totally prepped for a not-iron hands 10th edition space wolf army

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



BIRD GANG

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Flock ‘‘em up, boys!

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Cross post from over in the Historicals thread

Count Thrashula posted:

Starting an AWI project with Georgie Dubs himself





3d print from War Bear Studios. They make pretty incredible AWI/FIW stuff.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?







Gonna call my Talons of the Emperor Kill Team leader done, barring varnish. It's hard to put into words or pictures how reflective the Vince V gold recipe is, even after shading, it's something that's gotta be seen in person.

tehsid
Dec 24, 2007

Nobility is sadly overrated.
We finally had our long awaited Mordheim weekend. Lots of game we're had and lots of beer drank.

I'll pop up a few of the photos I took and post a link to the gallery that has more pics and is way higher quality of people are interested to take a look.




https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1sM2FU21FneoyeavRpmLCJXh_MzfRnkgw?usp=sharing

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008


I love this image, immediately reminds me of the crusaders in Alexander Nevsky.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fch4x8Dpp9M

Reubenesque Sandwich
Aug 1, 2006
Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
Fun Shoe
Cross-posting from the Malifaux thread. I’m getting back into wargaming and Malifaux looked neat. I speed-painted my starting gang and after playing in a league I think I like the game. I decided to start taking my actual time with some of the models.

I turned my Swine-Cursed into RockSteady and BeBop.

BeBop









It was fun sculpting him, the pose for the Swine-Cursed was just too perfect. Still a lil rusty from not modeling for a hot minute, but I like the results.

RockSteady







Here are the Gremlin versions for when they die. In the game they are were-pigs.





I also made Glowy tokens just for them, just chits to remind me when they have them



And some stat cards. I suck at digital media so I made these the old fashioned way with scissors and glue



The whole gang!

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Started airbrushing again after 6-8 years and I keep getting a coat of color on the tip and have to clear it pretty much every time I stop spraying. I premix the paint and thinner before pouring it into the cup and the paint jobs for basic base coating and highlighting are fine, just a bit annoying to have to clean the tip off every time. I’m allowing air to push through without paint before and after any time I pull back on the trigger. Quality looks fine, no spidering or sputtering.

What could be causing this?

Engorged Pedipalps
Apr 21, 2023
Is this the right thread for bust painting? I have been working on this Terra bust for a few days and am about done. I think it came out pretty nice!



Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Chill la Chill posted:

Started airbrushing again after 6-8 years and I keep getting a coat of color on the tip and have to clear it pretty much every time I stop spraying. I premix the paint and thinner before pouring it into the cup and the paint jobs for basic base coating and highlighting are fine, just a bit annoying to have to clean the tip off every time. I’m allowing air to push through without paint before and after any time I pull back on the trigger. Quality looks fine, no spidering or sputtering.

What could be causing this?

I'm no airbrush expert, but it's possible the needle isn'f fully seated (pressed all the way forward) so there's a tiny gap that is letting a minuscule amount of paint out any time there is airflow. That could be enough to coat the needle and would dry super fast.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Engorged Pedipalps posted:

Is this the right thread for bust painting? I have been working on this Terra bust for a few days and am about done. I think it came out pretty nice!





Nice. I got some busts and 75mm figures from a my mini factory campaign I should probably give a go.

Engorged Pedipalps
Apr 21, 2023

Lumpy posted:

I'm no airbrush expert, but it's possible the needle isn'f fully seated (pressed all the way forward) so there's a tiny gap that is letting a minuscule amount of paint out any time there is airflow. That could be enough to coat the needle and would dry super fast.

When in doubt, do a full teardown of the airbrush, and then clean the whole thing out with cleaning brushes, then oil everything and if you have it, tape or beeswax the seals.

A little bit of paint stuck at the end of the nib can keep the needle from fully extending

This problem can also be caused by the needle bending the nib from being pushed too far in, I've had to replace a couple of tip assemblies over the last couple of years this way

khazadum
Dec 1, 2006

I AM NOT A MERRY MAN
just got this off the pile
my back hurts



AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Putting the pain in mini painting.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Reubenesque Sandwich posted:

Cross-posting from the Malifaux thread. I’m getting back into wargaming and Malifaux looked neat. I speed-painted my starting gang and after playing in a league I think I like the game. I decided to start taking my actual time with some of the models.

I turned my Swine-Cursed into RockSteady and BeBop.

BeBop









It was fun sculpting him, the pose for the Swine-Cursed was just too perfect. Still a lil rusty from not modeling for a hot minute, but I like the results.

RockSteady







Here are the Gremlin versions for when they die. In the game they are were-pigs.





I also made Glowy tokens just for them, just chits to remind me when they have them



And some stat cards. I suck at digital media so I made these the old fashioned way with scissors and glue



The whole gang!



http://glench.com/tmnt/#They%27re_really_fucking_awesome

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Finished my Tyranid Screamer killer! would love comments and critique!







mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Shoehead posted:

I really gotta stop trying to light these guys. It's just not going to happen with how little these lamps spit out. Maybe I should just go outside or something

That photo looks good? It really does!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Al-Saqr posted:

Finished my Tyranid Screamer killer! would love comments and critique!









Love the colours, that fella pops! Also love it's entire head glowing with plasma. For critique I'd say for the claws consider wet blending on the model to smooth out the colour transition or if you have a wet palette make a colour gradient between the two colours on the palette so you can colour picker transitional colours.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."


Not bad for a little over a day on and off, including magnetizing my first wargear option. Just needs crackle paint on the base, maybe something on the shin-scroll, and a chapter badge once I get some transfers made.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Al-Saqr posted:

Finished my Tyranid Screamer killer! would love comments and critique!









The base looks amazing, I love the autumn leaves especially. I would recommend either masking the rim, or just sanding/scraping it down and painting it black. It just gives the piece a more polished look.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
adjusted screamer killer face, is this a little better?





Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
It looks like he has a hot hot plasma mouth, and that is super awesome.

Crazy Joe Wilson
Jul 4, 2007

Justifiably Mad!
What's the best way to wash a black base coat? I've heard blue wash is the simplest.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
OK I think my maximum amount of minis I can focus on at once is two.. And I actually paint them about as fast as I do a single one! Thanks ADHD! I also painted these guys slightly brighter than even my last guys and I think finally took the kind of photos I've wanted to!



Heavy flamer guy got a classic flamer paintjob. He's got a cool Cawdor head I got off a bits site



She's a shotgunner. I made her skin waaay too deeply purple again by mistake. She's the wrong arms too I think which make her look a little mutated.. Head's from Anvil Industries.

These were fun. I've got a messed up looking guy with a heavy stubber and the squad leader to do and I've finally finished this box of Hybrids!

Shoehead fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Oct 19, 2023

SpaceViking
Sep 2, 2011

Who put the stars in the sky? Coyote will say he did it himself, and it is not a lie.
Victrix 12mm Soviet officer

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Okay goons explain it to me like I’m 5 because for some reason my brain refuses to settle on this, how do you paint plain gold metal trim banding? Normally I’d gold>shade>pick out flat/details with various highlights but with plain unadorned bands like on a primaris shoulder its all flat. My idiot mind cannot decide whether I should be relayering the entire flat band in my base gold completely or just edge highlighting with a lighter gold. I feel like if I don’t layer it back it’ll look different than say the chest Aquila because those feathers have defined recesses and base/highlight layers on the flats. Simplicity breaks my brain apparently.

I have seen people advocate glazing different shades into parts of the flat banding but understanding that level of light reflection is sorcery beyond my ken.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!
Trying something wildly different than my usual style here. I wanted a retro space opera-y look, bright and alien, avoiding my usual mundane drab and grimy palette. It's really matte which is throwing off photos but I think it works. Street markings on the base aren't quite the scale I was aiming for I think, but maybe they are?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Mr Teatime posted:

Okay goons explain it to me like I’m 5 because for some reason my brain refuses to settle on this, how do you paint plain gold metal trim banding? Normally I’d gold>shade>pick out flat/details with various highlights but with plain unadorned bands like on a primaris shoulder its all flat. My idiot mind cannot decide whether I should be relayering the entire flat band in my base gold completely or just edge highlighting with a lighter gold. I feel like if I don’t layer it back it’ll look different than say the chest Aquila because those feathers have defined recesses and base/highlight layers on the flats. Simplicity breaks my brain apparently.

I have seen people advocate glazing different shades into parts of the flat banding but understanding that level of light reflection is sorcery beyond my ken.

Easy way: Mix in a tiny bit of sepia ink (or just dark brown paint) into the gold, paint the whole thing. On the parts that don't face down, paint regular gold on top of that. On the parts that face up, paint gold with a little bit of silver on top of that.


Not as easy way: Paint the whole thing gold. On the bits that face "almost down" (so if you were looking at a clock, 7 and 5) glaze in darker gold. Glaze in barely darker gold at 2 and 10, then glaze in lighter gold at 11 and 1. That explanation makes total sense in my brain, but I can add a visual aid if it doesn't make any sense to you.

Lumpy fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Oct 20, 2023

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Mr Teatime posted:

Okay goons explain it to me like I’m 5 because for some reason my brain refuses to settle on this, how do you paint plain gold metal trim banding? Normally I’d gold>shade>pick out flat/details with various highlights but with plain unadorned bands like on a primaris shoulder its all flat. My idiot mind cannot decide whether I should be relayering the entire flat band in my base gold completely or just edge highlighting with a lighter gold. I feel like if I don’t layer it back it’ll look different than say the chest Aquila because those feathers have defined recesses and base/highlight layers on the flats. Simplicity breaks my brain apparently.

I have seen people advocate glazing different shades into parts of the flat banding but understanding that level of light reflection is sorcery beyond my ken.

What is your shading technique in general?

For me personally I find it easiest to imagine a light source pointing at the miniature, usually from the front and above at the face. Anything that's facing the light is painted lighter, anything facing away is darker.

You can also do a non-directional highlight and Shade the deeper areas and highlight the elevated areas - the extension of this is the GW method of painting marines with edge highlights. There isn't an imaginary light source anywhere and you're highlighting in a more abstract sense.

For the former you'll paint the entire band dark and then brighten up the areas facing the light. For the latter paint the band dark and edge highlight the edges.

Also I finally finished this Warmaster after loving ages. Still needs a nameplate but I have yet to decide what I want to call it.











Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

Z the IVth posted:

Also I finally finished this Warmaster after loving ages. Still needs a nameplate but I have yet to decide what I want to call it.
Looks fantastic. Question; what are the green round things on top?

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Z the IVth posted:

What is your shading technique in general?

For me personally I find it easiest to imagine a light source pointing at the miniature, usually from the front and above at the face. Anything that's facing the light is painted lighter, anything facing away is darker.

You can also do a non-directional highlight and Shade the deeper areas and highlight the elevated areas - the extension of this is the GW method of painting marines with edge highlights. There isn't an imaginary light source anywhere and you're highlighting in a more abstract sense.

For the former you'll paint the entire band dark and then brighten up the areas facing the light. For the latter paint the band dark and edge highlight the edges.

Also I finally finished this Warmaster after loving ages. Still needs a nameplate but I have yet to decide what I want to call it.













Honestly I think I’m just struggling with comprehending how the way light reflects from a shiny metallic surface, particularly a curved one, creates variations in appearing lighter/darker. I suppose I’m trying to grasp what someone doing fancy non metallic metals is doing when they place their darkest and lightest points.

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Mr Teatime posted:

Honestly I think I’m just struggling with comprehending how the way light reflects from a shiny metallic surface, particularly a curved one, creates variations in appearing lighter/darker. I suppose I’m trying to grasp what someone doing fancy non metallic metals is doing when they place their darkest and lightest points.

https://razzaminipainting.blogspot.com/2016/07/non-metallic-metals.html

This might help. There are others but this one is one of those that helped me the most along with a couple short theoretical examples in a couple art books but I don't think those are online. The best book about this and everything minis related is honestly James Gurney's Color and Light. It has all the theory and plenty of practical examples and it's pretty cheap. The best part is that this is classical painting and not minis painting so you are exposed to a variety of styles and not something very limited like what's in vogue in the minis world like the very clean airbrush+highlight method that Angel Giraldez uses.

Honestly NMM is just like any other color with exaggerated contrast (we're dealing with tiny minis here) but limited to grays/blues/browns. I've been using purple more recently since I like the vaporwave/synthwave aesthetic and just like sky-earth NMM it's just a variation of what colors the surfaces will reflect.

Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Oct 20, 2023

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Z the IVth posted:

Also I finally finished this Warmaster after loving ages. Still needs a nameplate but I have yet to decide what I want to call it.


Holy poo poo

Crazy Joe Wilson posted:

What's the best way to wash a black base coat? I've heard blue wash is the simplest.

I don't really think* putting wash on black would produce any noteworthy effects, regardless of wash colour. What effect are you trying to achieve?

*I barely know how to hold a brush

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Z the IVth, now that's a loving titan, great work!

Crazy Joe Wilson posted:

What's the best way to wash a black base coat? I've heard blue wash is the simplest.
Meant to reply to this earlier and forgot, if you are wanting to shade black then you must start by painting not black for the base. If you are wanting to have an extremely dark blue then shading blue over black could work for that.

Crazy Joe Wilson
Jul 4, 2007

Justifiably Mad!
Ok thanks guys, I'll just keep them black without a wash, details are all still noticable with good highlighting.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

That might be the best painted titan I've ever seen.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Finished my Hearthkyn Salvager Kill Team, which was also the test run for my full Leagues of Votann army paint scheme. I'm very happy with how they turned out, and I feel like I hit a new personal best for clean edge highlights.


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Mistaken For Bacon
Apr 26, 2003

I might pick up the warboss or the dread for some more details down the road but I'm happy to put a painted combat patrol on the table and move onto the next project. I really felt like I leveled up a bit with the airbrush on the bigger minis, blocking in colors quickly and not worrying much about overspray. So much room for improvement regardless.




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