Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Awkward Davies posted:

To close the loop I got the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Got them put on today and took a canyon road on the way home. I swear the ride was better, car was more responsive, and felt more secure in the tight canyon curves.
Good choice.

You're not imagining things, the car is almost certainly more responsive and secure, and depending on what was on there before could easily ride better too. There's a reason PS4Ses are the standard warm weather tire on so many high performance vehicles. They're about as deep in to performance as you can get without falling off the cliff of impracticality as a daily driver.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

wolrah posted:

Good choice.

You're not imagining things, the car is almost certainly more responsive and secure, and depending on what was on there before could easily ride better too. There's a reason PS4Ses are the standard warm weather tire on so many high performance vehicles. They're about as deep in to performance as you can get without falling off the cliff of impracticality as a daily driver.

I'll just vouch for the Continental ExtremeContact series for wet conditions. I think it goes by a different name now (instead of DW and DWS for the all weather) but I've never been as impressed with tires in my life. I've done track days in the rain with them and the grip was phenomenal. Driving to work on the highway through standing water and you would never know it was there. This is pretty important if you live somewhere (Vancouver, Seattle) with tons of rain.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
My 06 Ford Mustang GT, 170k doesn't have any reading for the voltage on the idiot lights, it's completely "empty", or all the way to the left. I have a multi meter and know how to check the idling and revving voltage, and I'll do that this weekend, but I'm pretty much guessing it's just the gauge not reporting correctly, I don't think there's actually a problem with the battery because I've been driving and starting it all week.

So, what can I check for the gauge? Is there a certain fuse that controls it? A sensor in the engine bay? Or is just a bad instrument cluster?

I know these gauges aren't nearly as accurate as they appear, but I'd it to at least be somewhere in the middle, it's just annoying.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Jack B Nimble posted:

My 06 Ford Mustang GT, 170k doesn't have any reading for the voltage on the idiot lights, it's completely "empty", or all the way to the left. I have a multi meter and know how to check the idling and revving voltage, and I'll do that this weekend, but I'm pretty much guessing it's just the gauge not reporting correctly, I don't think there's actually a problem with the battery because I've been driving and starting it all week.

So, what can I check for the gauge? Is there a certain fuse that controls it? A sensor in the engine bay? Or is just a bad instrument cluster?

I know these gauges aren't nearly as accurate as they appear, but I'd it to at least be somewhere in the middle, it's just annoying.

Those lights are simple LEDs that don't get voltage if there's no reason for the lights to turn on. What issue are you actually having? The gauges themselves don't work? Are you saying that you have no voltage to the gauge cluster entirely?

e: by idiot lights you mean like oil light, ABS, CEL, etc right?

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

VelociBacon posted:

Those lights are simple LEDs that don't get voltage if there's no reason for the lights to turn on. What issue are you actually having? The gauges themselves don't work? Are you saying that you have no voltage to the gauge cluster entirely?

e: by idiot lights you mean like oil light, ABS, CEL, etc right?

Yeah, this voltage gauge stays in the off position shown here, even when I turn the car on and all the others go into some sort of "yup, it's working!" position:



I believe these gauges aren't nearly as informative as they look, it just bugs me that it's completely off (or stuck?)

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

VelociBacon posted:

Those lights are simple LEDs that don't get voltage if there's no reason for the lights to turn on. What issue are you actually having? The gauges themselves don't work? Are you saying that you have no voltage to the gauge cluster entirely?

e: by idiot lights you mean like oil light, ABS, CEL, etc right?

I'm not OP but I've seen some Mustangs in my days, the mustang has an "analog" voltage gauge but its fake and doesn't show real time voltage:

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

Twerk from Home posted:

I'm not OP but I've seen some Mustangs in my days, the mustang has an "analog" voltage gauge but its fake and doesn't show real time voltage:



Right, I had the same some of gauge in my '95 F150, and my understanding was you would never look at the gauge and say "oh drat, I've lost a quarter of my battery voltage, better check that out!"

I believe it's just the red battery icon in another form, so I'd think it should be happily pegged somewhere in the center of the gauge unless or until I saw a battery cable in half with an angle grinder.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

bone shaking.
soul baking.
On my old 77 vette, I knew my alternator crapped out one day when voltage suddenly dropped from 14 to 12 on the gauge. :lol: that they put a fake one on cars years later.

Current car, 2017 Jetta, doesn't have gauges nor does it even have an icon to tell me when the engine has warmed up. Cluster lights for everything, though, if something goes wrong. I love the 7 light popup when a wheel speed sensor goes out.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

bird with big dick posted:

This has been washed and wiped at least three times with both soapy water and car detailing spray and it still looks like this. I'm guessing on vacation either on a gravel road or in a construction zone some nasty poo poo got flung onto the plastic and permanently (?) stained it.

Anyone have any suggestions? About to try some of that Back 2 Black poo poo that my wife puts on her 17 year old Xterra's plastic but obviously shouldn't normally need that on a brand new car.



Whatever this poo poo was soap and water and a brush still wasn't good enough to get it all off but Chemical Guys "Trim clean wax and oil remover" made pretty short work of it.

Doc Fission
Sep 11, 2011



Hi guys, got quoted about $3K in car repairs. My good boy, a 2008 Lexus ES350 bought cheap off my dad two years ago, needs the control arms replaced and new rear brakes. It also has a cracked drive belt.

I don't have a lot of cash on-hand due to medical expenses. I can throw this all on a credit card or I can get around for awhile without a car as my commute is short and not terrible re: public transit. I guess I am wondering what other broke jerks would do in this situation.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Try to prioritize which repairs need to be done first. What is a cracked drive belt? Serpentine belt? Timing belt? Either of those will leave you stranded.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



VelociBacon posted:

I'll just vouch for the Continental ExtremeContact series for wet conditions. I think it goes by a different name now (instead of DW and DWS for the all weather) but I've never been as impressed with tires in my life. I've done track days in the rain with them and the grip was phenomenal. Driving to work on the highway through standing water and you would never know it was there. This is pretty important if you live somewhere (Vancouver, Seattle) with tons of rain.

I run Conti ExtremeContact all seasons on the Audi A4 I have. It is a really great tire, I have zero complaints. It’s not a cheap tire but the price is also reasonable. The little DWS indicators in the tread to indicate progressive wear are dope.

The tire market is funny though, 99% of consumers are just gonna get whatever correct size is in stock at their shop. So the tire shop can just stock whatever nets them the highest profit margin, rather than what’s a good tire.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Oct 20, 2023

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Inner Light posted:

I run Conti ExtremeContact all seasons on the Audi A4 I have. It is a really great tire, I have zero complaints. It’s not a cheap tire but the price is also reasonable. The little DWS indicators in the tread to indicate progressive wear are dope.

I ran them as "three season" tires, putting on snow tires in the winter. Wow, the "S" indicator sure was accurate (thinking about who much it slid when we got a random early snowfall before I put my winters on).

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

"needs new brakes" can mean 3000 miles or 50 miles, see if they specify brake pad depth. If it's got 3k miles left on the pads then you've got a ways to go. But brakes are a major safety item I'd start here. New brake pads are pretty cheap less than $200 probably.

2GR-FE engine has a timing chain so that's probably the accessory belt and while it'll leave you stranded if it fails, it won't ruin your engine. Not positive which engine you have but it might be that one. If it's a different engine and they want to do the timing belt (not chain) then yeah that's also pretty high priority item

The front control arms are they replacing them due to the bushings or did you get in a wreck or something.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I'd say if it's rears only for brakes you get away with it a little. The fronts do most of the work. I wouldn't put it off too long but a couple months is probably OK.

Control arms, if it's just bushings you'll have a worse ride and some alignment issues but that can be deferred.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
just make sure that the brakes aren’t in danger of caliper damage. If you defer brake pad replacement you’ll probably end up having to do pads + discs where maybe originally you only needed pads, but you may be at the point of needing new discs anyway and it’s not that much more, and it’s still much cheaper than getting new calipers

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Good point. I’m thinking like, defer for 3 mos max there.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
If you have the tools and a jack and jack stands, brakes are generally an easy repair to do by yourself. gently caress you, MKV GTI. Like one step above an oil change. A quick Google search showed rear brake pads in the $50 range.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah the rear do like 10% of the braking under normal circumstances. Unless your front brakes suddenly fail without warning, then they're pretty dang important

When I was too poor to do even the most basic maintenance on my car I went through the pads and eventually was riding on the backing pads which thankfully were 1/4" plate and protected the caliper piston for six weeks until I could borrow money to replace them. I did a lot of engine braking in the interim

Rear brakes aren't that expensive and will literally save your life I'd put that on the credit card now

Farmer Crack-Ass
Jan 2, 2001

this is me posting irl
I'd like to get a car cover but I remember hearing from someone years ago that the cover they got damaged the paint on their car. What should I look out for when selecting a car cover? Any recommended sources or brands?

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.
Fwiw, I think the real answer is take public transit and drive not very much if at all until things look a little better. Then do stuff in this order.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


VelociBacon posted:

I'll just vouch for the Continental ExtremeContact series for wet conditions. I think it goes by a different name now (instead of DW and DWS for the all weather) but I've never been as impressed with tires in my life. I've done track days in the rain with them and the grip was phenomenal. Driving to work on the highway through standing water and you would never know it was there. This is pretty important if you live somewhere (Vancouver, Seattle) with tons of rain.
I have the DWS06 plus and am happy with them for the extremely little amount of snow we get in TN. They hold up fine to spirited driving and have good cold and wet grip.

Farmer Crack-rear end posted:

I'd like to get a car cover but I remember hearing from someone years ago that the cover they got damaged the paint on their car. What should I look out for when selecting a car cover? Any recommended sources or brands?
Outside or inside use? Never experienced it myself, have never parked with a car cover outside, but some report a loose cover and wind will screw up paint so not sure on the solution there. Inside pay a little more and get a nice one with a soft lining then don't worry about it. I have several California Car Cover brand that seem to cover the car fine and haven't caused any paint issues.

Farmer Crack-Ass
Jan 2, 2001

this is me posting irl
It's for outside use; looking to get a cover specifically because I don't have a garage to park the car in.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The problem with using a cover especially outdoors is that unless the car is 100% spotless and clean you're going to eventually scratch it up putting the cover on and taking it off repeatedly.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

A cover outside is a bad idea. It traps moisture, promoting rust, and flapping in the wind will abrade the paint.

A canvas carport is a better cheap alternative..

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?
gently caress Honda and their VSA modules. That is all.

Not sure if it’s worth trying to get a goodwill case in for a $3k part on a car with only 50k miles.

I can probably pull it myself and send it in for rebuild for $200. gently caress.

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




Doc Fission posted:

Hi guys, got quoted about $3K in car repairs. My good boy, a 2008 Lexus ES350 bought cheap off my dad two years ago, needs the control arms replaced and new rear brakes. It also has a cracked drive belt.

I don't have a lot of cash on-hand due to medical expenses. I can throw this all on a credit card or I can get around for awhile without a car as my commute is short and not terrible re: public transit. I guess I am wondering what other broke jerks would do in this situation.

I have a 05 Avalon which is the Toyota equivalent. My first round of work was an all metal VVT oil line, new water pump, new alternator, new belt, new thermostat, new rear brake light. It was about $500 in parts and $500 in labor. Since then four new rotors, one rear brake assembly, new pads, a new wiper fluid pump, new wipers, new cv axle boots on one corner, front valve cover gaskets, new air box, and probably a couple more small things. All together again about $500 in parts and another $500 in labor.

Now I haven't done control arms, but 3k seems outrageous. You need to get other quotes from cheaper mechanics that will let you buy your own parts online for cheap.

Mental Hospitality
Jan 5, 2011

Am I dumb to not buyout my lease?

Details: I am currently leasing a 2020 Ford Fusion, SEL trim, 23,500 miles. Through Ford Credit I have the option to purchase for $13,895. As far as I can tell, the market value is much higher for similar trims and miles. I leased it right before everything went to poo poo and did a sign-the-drive for a sub 300/mo lease.

I would need a loan. While I can put a decent amount towards the principle I'm not in a position to plunk down 14 grand (who is?). Are interest rates going to negate the equity? What's a good lender that won't penalize me for paying off the loan early (if possible anyways) Will the 1.5 Ecoboost motor explode its head gasket as soon as the powertrain warranty runs out? The car has cosmetic damage which I know I will get absolutely dinged for if I return but otherwise has been a solid commuter.

I guess that's a lot of brainstorming but input is welcome.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Mental Hospitality posted:

Am I dumb to not buyout my lease?

Details: I am currently leasing a 2020 Ford Fusion, SEL trim, 23,500 miles. Through Ford Credit I have the option to purchase for $13,895. As far as I can tell, the market value is much higher for similar trims and miles. I leased it right before everything went to poo poo and did a sign-the-drive for a sub 300/mo lease.

I would need a loan. While I can put a decent amount towards the principle I'm not in a position to plunk down 14 grand (who is?). Are interest rates going to negate the equity? What's a good lender that won't penalize me for paying off the loan early (if possible anyways) Will the 1.5 Ecoboost motor explode its head gasket as soon as the powertrain warranty runs out? The car has cosmetic damage which I know I will get absolutely dinged for if I return but otherwise has been a solid commuter.

I guess that's a lot of brainstorming but input is welcome.

If you don't buy out the lease, will you be leasing another car and getting soaked by higher money factor? Will you by buying another car, new or used? Or are you considering not replacing it with another car?


You have the chance to buy that car that you're familiar with for under market value, so if the car is fine and you need a car I'd absolutely buy it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

If you don't buy out your lease the dealer is going to be very, very happy with all the money they're gonna make selling that three year old car for more than it cost new in 2020

Usually car leases for private individuals are a bad idea but if you got one in 2020 in retrospect that was a great deal of you buy it out

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I mean I guess if you’re moving to a place where you don’t need a car or something it might make sense to buy and flip the car but if you can acquire an asset for below market it’s almost always a good idea.

Auto loans from anyone reputable do not have early repayment penalties. Talk to your bank, tell them the situation, and then shop around if you’re not happy with their quote.

hesaidseashed
Jun 8, 2010
Any recommended companies for car seat covers?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Upholstery shop.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down
Greetings goons. In the market to downsize my '14 Explorer as my kids are getting older and starting to get licenses of their own. The family truckster is no longer needed or wanted with three rows. Test drove a '23 Hyundai Sante Fe Hybrid SEL Premium this weekend and quite liked it. Still going to be out checking out other vehicles and such but wanted to see if there was any general feedback on Hyundai's reliability/quality in 2023. I've been out of the automotive purchasing loop for quite some time and Hyundai was not a perceived 'quality' brand when I last looked at them a long time ago.

Have they 'mostly' worked out any issues with reliability, parts availability, etc. or is it still a brand that I should stay away from in general. If I need to rule them out from the start, I'd rather not waste my time keeping them on the list if so.

ANY feedback is appreciated, thank y'all very much.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

TraderStav posted:

Greetings goons. In the market to downsize my '14 Explorer as my kids are getting older and starting to get licenses of their own. The family truckster is no longer needed or wanted with three rows. Test drove a '23 Hyundai Sante Fe Hybrid SEL Premium this weekend and quite liked it. Still going to be out checking out other vehicles and such but wanted to see if there was any general feedback on Hyundai's reliability/quality in 2023. I've been out of the automotive purchasing loop for quite some time and Hyundai was not a perceived 'quality' brand when I last looked at them a long time ago.

Have they 'mostly' worked out any issues with reliability, parts availability, etc. or is it still a brand that I should stay away from in general. If I need to rule them out from the start, I'd rather not waste my time keeping them on the list if so.

ANY feedback is appreciated, thank y'all very much.

Hyundai’s reliability has increased exponentially in my experience, and have a longer warranty than the competing Japanese imports and domestics.

The biggest customer dissatisfaction I encounter is continuing consumer perception of Hyundai as a value brand, while demanding and enjoying its substantial premium features, until it’s time to pay for the upkeep of premium features. A larger import SUV still has more expensive maintenance parts than a base Civic or Cruze.

My personal observation is the fancier features on economical models are cheaper components than their competitors. For example, the backup camera on a BMW X5 is a better product than the one on a Hyundai, but the Hyundai one isn’t significantly cheaper to replace out of warranty even though it may be more likely to fail. Strictly anecdotal evidence and personal experience, though.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
The dealer franchise model means that quality of dealers is variable. You may have a good local Hyundai dealer, but the average Hyundai dealer is bad by dealer standards, and the worst 20% are like BHPH levels of poo poo.

Quality has gotten a lot better over the last 20 years, but there have been pretty significant quality issues with some of their engine families. Similar to their dealers, I’d rather deal with say a Ford or Honda store for a campaign or other quality issue, but they’re not so far off it now.

Other people can chime in with various specific cases or whatever but all else equal their dealer network sucks so I’d think pretty carefully about whether your local dealer is any good. Sure you may go to an independent after the warranty period, but any campaigns or recalls have to be done at the dealer, and your local dealer is going to supply parts for any kind of major repair.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down
Glad to hear they've come a long way in recent years. Any suggestions on how to evaluate my local dealers? Mine Google reviews or are there sites that objectively evaluate them? Reviews are good but can slant negatively when it's not the dealers fault so would be great to try and filter for that. Thanks!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Yeah I’d go through Google reviews and then just like show up and scope out the place. It should be clean and tidy and people should be engaged without being pushy. Service waiting area should be reasonably comfortable, have wifi, and coffee. Even if you never wait there, dealers who don’t invest in this stuff don’t give a poo poo about your customer experience. Ask how long to get a service appointment. See if there are a bunch of open service advisor desks. You can really only get vibes but usually that kind of vibe check is pretty accurate.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Yeah I’d go through Google reviews and then just like show up and scope out the place. It should be clean and tidy and people should be engaged without being pushy. Service waiting area should be reasonably comfortable, have wifi, and coffee. Even if you never wait there, dealers who don’t invest in this stuff don’t give a poo poo about your customer experience. Ask how long to get a service appointment. See if there are a bunch of open service advisor desks. You can really only get vibes but usually that kind of vibe check is pretty accurate.

Ah okay. I was already there once when I test drove it and checks all around for your items. Only question is service appointments and mining the Google reviews. I'm in a competitive affluent area in SE Michigan (Ann Arbor) so imagine they have to keep their game up here to hang.

Really appreciate the feedback, feeling better about maybe moving this one higher on the list.

Other cars we are looking at are CR-V and Forester but their interior was not very inspiring. The Sante Fe had a real nice front seat that felt like a damned cockpit and I enjoyed that quite a bit. Maybe stupid things to rank but 🤷‍♂️

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
That store seems decent to me as a former Tree Person. My BMW dealer and Indy were out there so I’d wander around out there.

I personally can’t stand Hyundai’s interiors (all that garbage silver plastic) but if you like it go for it!

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply