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Turmoilx posted:bike shop dude said im missing a part that, he showed me on a bike they have there and its just like a rubber casing that goes around the wire right before it connects to the hub (alfine 8 hub) i don't understand this .. i never got this part and it wasn't in the alfine 8 small parts kit i had to buy I think you're talking about the rubber boot like the one that comes on v-brakes. It keeps crud out of the housing where it terminates.
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Oct 20, 2023 02:57
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 23:52 |
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SimonSays posted:I think you're talking about the rubber boot like the one that comes on v-brakes. It keeps crud out of the housing where it terminates. Cable grommet?
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Oct 20, 2023 02:59
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VelociBacon posted:Is this an ebike thing because I have no idea what you're referring to?
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Oct 20, 2023 03:18
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SimonSays posted:I think you're talking about the rubber boot like the one that comes on v-brakes. It keeps crud out of the housing where it terminates. ah yes thats the wording, the guy made it sound super specific to this hub which ..its just a piece of rubber y'know, yeah like the brake ones i didn't even know what to type in to find one online
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Oct 20, 2023 03:39
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Turmoilx posted:ah yes thats the wording, the guy made it sound super specific to this hub which ..its just a piece of rubber y'know, yeah like the brake ones You can find exploded diagrams with part codes at si.shimano.com, punch in your parts model code and look for the EV files.
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Oct 20, 2023 03:43
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SimonSays posted:You can find exploded diagrams with part codes at si.shimano.com, punch in your parts model code and look for the EV files. cool i'll check that out, he said mine should of came with that dunno why it didn't.. or maybe it did and i lost it but i don't remember seeing one https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/CASG004/install_shifting_cable i messaged the site i got it from asking if it was supposed to come with it/where i can get them.. but the link also says it's not needed? if im understanding that first tip correctly rubber bellows,outer casing holder body and rubber cover. guess the shop will have to probably order that from shimano Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Oct 20, 2023 |
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Oct 20, 2023 08:22
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Turmoilx posted:https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/CASG004/install_shifting_cable i messaged the site i got it from asking if it was supposed to come with it/where i can get them.. but the link also says it's not needed? if im understanding that first tip correctly You already have the outer holding body to plug the end of the housing into the bracket? If so, it seems like the bellows are inconsequential. This post raises a question about the exposed cable length from fixing nut to cable housing end, but sadly no one replied https://www.bikeforums.net/21759673-post20.html If it were me, I’d rig something up to protecting the cable from rubbing into things and leave it as long as I had the holding body. I installed a Nexus 8 back in the day and aside from having to coil in the fixing nut end of the cable, don’t remember anything tricky about terminating the cable housing.
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Oct 21, 2023 03:28
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 Please identify. it's from a Schwinn.
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Oct 21, 2023 09:04
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that looks to be a cassette
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Oct 21, 2023 09:15
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Isn't it a freewheel
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Oct 21, 2023 09:32
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that's what I said
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Oct 21, 2023 09:36
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I meant more of a "who made it".
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Oct 21, 2023 10:37
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CMD598 posted:I meant more of a "who made it". Yeah but you asked like a rude dweeb and it's too generic to really tell. What year Schwinn, how many speeds, what sort of hub was it on, you know, literally any info. It also doesn't really matter who made it for bicycle maintenance and repair purposes, so you could also tell us why you need to know
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Oct 21, 2023 13:58
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Freewheels and cassettes are different things. A freewheel has the turny/ratcheting bit built in and threads onto the hub. Cassettes are just a stack of gears and the turny/ratchety bit is on the hub. I would guess it's a suntour https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/freewheel-remover-fr-3?category=Cassette+%26+Freewheel But it doesn't really matter, freewheels are pretty interchangeable. jamal fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 15:47
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The important parts re:replacing like for like are: Cassette vs freewheel (that's a freewheel) The number of cogs The number of teeth on each cog (particularly the smallest and largest - part will be listed as "XX-YY" where XX is the number of teeth on the smallest and YY the largest) If you're replacing the freewheel you should get a chain checker and find out if the chain needs replacing too - a worn chain will skip on a new freewheel. Chainring(s) on the crankset too...
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Oct 21, 2023 17:00
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e: nvm
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 17:10
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Yeah we still have no idea why this person even asked
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Oct 21, 2023 17:13
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Did some maintenance this week. Recently I got caught out in the rain for a pretty long time and the bike was unhappy about that. Next time I went out the dropper was pretty grindey and sticky and there was a good amount of water in the frame and bearings and stuff. The fork had also not been feeling great, a little harsh, not using as much travel as i'd expect, plus the rebound adjuster broke off, so it needed a full overhaul too. All the dropper bits. Pretty easy actually, but all they have is a 12min long youtube video that kind of misses some of the details so you better be sure you pay attention to how things came apart and go back together. the u-cup seal especially needs to be the right way. On the fork I took the air shaft completely apart and replaced all the seals along with the damper. Air shaft is pretty reasonable, you do need shaft clamps and a vice and a bullet tool and stuff to take the foot nut thing off and get the seal head back on. The fox fit4 damper, though, has a lot of parts in it.  The directions on the fox site are fairly good but yeah make sure you lay all the shims out in order and the right side up. the compression adjuster deal in the top cap especially has to go right, the clip that holds the bladder is real annoying to get on, and bleeding is also a pain in the rear end. the broken bit  You can replace just the adjuster shaft but I did get a whole new assembly, plus a shaft. So I put the new one in and then replaced the broken one and put it in the bin as a spare. Anyway I got all that back together but am not all that confident it's not just going to keep on sucking in air like it was before. The seal head on the rebound shaft, sure, that's good but then the bladder is maybe not sealed as good and i'm not sure the top cap itself wasn't letting a bit of air in. Seems like too many ways for air to get in the damper- rebound shaft, rebound adjuster maybe, compression adjuster, top cap, and both ends of the bladder. I think maybe that damper could use a bit of an update. While I was at it I took the cranks out because there was water in the headset when I took that apart so I figured yeah should check those bearings. Not actually that bad. Hmm should I see how those pivot bearings are doing while I'm at it? yeah I guess. Main pivot bearings toast. I didn't bother taking the upper linkage apart. Those bearings are all new this year at least.  Got it back together, took it for a ride, seems like it's all working  
jamal fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Oct 22, 2023 |
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Oct 22, 2023 05:43
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Bike mechanic debugging question: I am installing a new bottom bracket and cranks on my MTB. BB is a Wheels MFG PF92 to GXP thread-together bottom bracket, and cranks are Canfield Bros AM cranks. I have the BB installed and tightened to spec (40 Nm) and am using the provided dust seals and no spacers. I've installed and tightened down the cranks as much as I can (I haven't done this with a torque wrench yet, but it shouldn't matter -- the Canfield cranks are supposed to have the bolt bottomed out). The problem I'm facing is that the cranks are binding; they don't freely spin a full rotation. The binding is asymmetrical: the cranks spin pretty freely for about half of a rotation and then bind on the other half. Any ideas about how to fix this? The only cause I can imagine is that the BB cups aren't properly aligned, but the previous (SRAM DUB) cranks+BB didn't have the same issue AFAIK. Edit: After loving around with this for a while, it's clear that the issue is on the non-drive side. It's as if the dust seal is just a hair too thick. I managed (through randomly messing around with the dust seal and rotating the BB in the shell) to get it to a point where the binding is even throughout the rotation and is acceptable enough to ride. Still open to ideas for how to improve it. Setec_Astronomy fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Oct 27, 2023 |
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Oct 26, 2023 23:53
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Since the binding is asymmetrical perhaps the BB shell needs facing??
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Oct 27, 2023 04:46
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You can’t have rear suspension and two bottles in the front triangle. That’s illegal.
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Oct 27, 2023 04:57
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Platystemon posted:You can’t have rear suspension and two bottles in the front triangle. It's all good because that is a trapezoid
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Oct 27, 2023 18:13
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Kind of a weird question, but does anyone know if Park Tool sells a folding repair stand with just the receiver and no clamp? I already have a bench mountable PRS-4.2-1, but want to see if I can use those jaws in a folding stand. My hunch is it's probably cheaper to just buy a completely separate folding stand, but it would cool if I could just get the stand legs from park and use the jaws I already have. This is what I have now: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/deluxe-bench-mount-repair-stand-prs-4-2-1?category=Bench+/+Wall+Mount  I want to get something like this but without the jaws: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9-3?category=Portable 
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Oct 29, 2023 04:11
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frogbs posted:Kind of a weird question, but does anyone know if Park Tool sells a folding repair stand with just the receiver and no clamp? I already have a bench mountable PRS-4.2-1, but want to see if I can use those jaws in a folding stand. My hunch is it's probably cheaper to just buy a completely separate folding stand, but it would cool if I could just get the stand legs from park and use the jaws I already have. I have the portable one, it uses a completely different interface for the clamp than the pro model, sorry.
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Oct 29, 2023 04:37
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SimonSays posted:I have the portable one, it uses a completely different interface for the clamp than the pro model, sorry. Ah dang! I'll just keep an eye out for a used portable stand then. Thank you!
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Oct 29, 2023 04:49
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The PCS 4-1 is listed as portable. I have one, and you can sort of get it flat and shortened, and it comes with the pro clamp. It will not fold up as well as some of the other Park portables, but for me it has been good enough. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/deluxe-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-4-1?category=Portable
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Oct 29, 2023 05:35
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jesus christ. I hit a bone rattling pothole that I never saw coming and it put a noticeable bulge in both my front and rear rim on the one side of the braking surface. Right after impact I immediately felt something was off and the wheels were wobbling. These are old lightweight aluminum tubular rims, so maybe they'll have some flex to them and I'm going to try hammering them back into shape. If that doesn't work out, I've already got another of these rims and I'd just need to find a second and rebuild them. I had just filled the tires up before that ride too 
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Nov 3, 2023 15:32
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kimbo305 posted:What’s the big cog? Does 11-28 work? Thanks for the recommendation, but I went with a cheap good condition cheap vintage 6 speed because the rear wheel is supposed to be 126mm, but had spacers to get it out to 128.X and everything's so much simpler this way.
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Nov 3, 2023 15:36
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Should I do downtube shifters or bar ends on my classy allroad/rando build
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Nov 3, 2023 15:40
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A MIRACLE posted:Should I do downtube shifters or bar ends on my classy allroad/rando build I couldn't bring myself to do anything but brifters on a bike I was building up. But if the look is important, I'd go downtube. Not that much more reach to access, less cabling, no worry about moving your shifting when you lean the drops on something.
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Nov 3, 2023 16:23
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Downtube shifters are no less convenient than bartend shifters imo, and are superior in terms of anesthetics (not imo, objective fact).
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Nov 3, 2023 16:25
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I have no idea what drivetrain choices are good for this... my last friction shifter build was 3x deore XT. I want 2x or maybe 1x if the range is wide enough
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Nov 3, 2023 16:28
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bicievino posted:(not imo, objective fact). 
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Nov 3, 2023 16:29
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A MIRACLE posted:I have no idea what drivetrain choices are good for this... my last friction shifter build was 3x deore XT. I want 2x or maybe 1x if the range is wide enough Maybe this is extra confusing cuz you were talking about the 126 bike you just busted up, but what hub spec are you dealing with?
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Nov 3, 2023 16:30
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the frame spec for a midnight special says Rear Hub Spacing 12 x 142mm (Surly axle included) 10 x 135mm with Surly 10/12 Adapter Washers (not included) Front Hub Spacing 12 x 100mm (Surly axle included) but I'm also still looking at other frames. ive got a little spreadsheet going since this bike is going to cost like 3 grand lmao
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Nov 3, 2023 16:33
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This works with 11spd stuff: https://velo-orange.com/products/dia-compe-ene-11s-dt-shifters Russ from Path Less Pedal has set it up (or the bar end version) against 12 speed.
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Nov 3, 2023 16:43
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kimbo305 posted:This works with 11spd stuff: love these on my 11 speed camping bike, which I'm going to get to use this weekend 
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Nov 3, 2023 16:53
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A MIRACLE posted:Should I do downtube shifters or bar ends on my classy allroad/rando build Where are you getting a frame with built in downtube shifter attachment points in 2023?
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Nov 3, 2023 17:25
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wooger posted:Where are you getting a frame with built in downtube shifter attachment points in 2023? My straggler has them 
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Nov 3, 2023 17:30
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lots of qbp steel frames have them
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Nov 3, 2023 17:33
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