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You can do basic cutting with the MS Windows 3d modeler, which will then fix any problems with the geometry before you send it to your slicer.
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Oct 26, 2023 14:00
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In blender, depending on the STL file, the bits might be independently selectable as well, though through a slightly tedious process. If you go into vertex edit mode, select a few vertices on the part you want, you can then Select -> Select Linked sometimes that individual part will get fully selected (rather than the entire. model) and then you can right-click Separate -> Selection and Blender will turn that into a new object, which you can then save or export as a different STL file. Again, this depends entirely on how the model was made, so it may not always work, but I have done some kit bashing this way.
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Oct 26, 2023 14:35
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You can also try the slightly more tricky thing of selecting a loop and deleting it, thereby making two disconnected objects, but that's maybe getting into the weeds.
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Oct 26, 2023 14:42
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Prusaslicer as has a pretty good splitting tool in it now. Can even add pegs.
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Oct 26, 2023 14:42
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Lychee can split through the z=0 I think - but fair points. I have Meshlab and Blender, but not spent much time with either except fixing non manifold edges in the former!
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Oct 26, 2023 18:49
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I tried using Blender to fix a part that has a void inside it that is messing up the print, and bounced off it hard. I need to watch some tutorials I guess because I cannot figure it out on my own.
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Oct 26, 2023 20:58
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Southern Heel posted:Lychee can split through the z=0 I think - but fair points. I have Meshlab and Blender, but not spent much time with either except fixing non manifold edges in the former! Would you mind doing a quick "how to" for MeshLab? Grabbed it, but it's got that "UI designed by a developer" thing going for it.
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Oct 26, 2023 21:06
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Microsoft has a program in the Windows store called 3D Builder that I used for that job exactly. Bonus it's the best lightweight tool for repairing STLs that come up red in lychee slicer
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Oct 26, 2023 23:28
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Count Thrashula posted:Microsoft has a program in the Windows store called 3D Builder that I used for that job exactly. I have no way to run Windows unfortunately.
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Oct 27, 2023 02:14
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Kylaer posted:I tried using Blender to fix a part that has a void inside it that is messing up the print, and bounced off it hard. I need to watch some tutorials I guess because I cannot figure it out on my own. You can take the sledgehammer approach or the scalpel approach. Sledgehammer is pop in to xray view, find the void, dump another mesh on it, resize where necessary to overlap everything then let your slicer print it as a solid. Scalpel is edit mode, select vertices and start manually re-connecting them to cut it off and rebuild the surface you want. I don't recall the exact key command to connect vertices, you'd have to Google that.
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Oct 27, 2023 03:10
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Kylaer posted:I tried using Blender to fix a part that has a void inside it that is messing up the print, and bounced off it hard. I need to watch some tutorials I guess because I cannot figure it out on my own. Blender is the most obtuse program I've ever used but it's worth learning the useful bits, it's super good for a free program. just watch video tutorials cause everything is contextual or hidden multiple menus deep and very few things can just be easily figured out on your own
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Oct 27, 2023 11:12
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bird food bathtub posted:You can take the sledgehammer approach or the scalpel approach. Sledgehammer is pop in to xray view, find the void, dump another mesh on it, resize where necessary to overlap everything then let your slicer print it as a solid. Scalpel is edit mode, select vertices and start manually re-connecting them to cut it off and rebuild the surface you want. I don't recall the exact key command to connect vertices, you'd have to Google that. You can select 2 vertexes, then right click and choose Connect Vertex Pairs to create a new edge between 2 vertices. If there's a void in the model, does that mean that there's geometry inside the main mass of the object, like a cave hidden inside the body of the model? If that's the case I would just select and hide a large patch of the outside surface so I could see the internal geometry, then select those faces and delete. Some selection modes may allow you to isolate problem geometry too, depending on the topology, like Select by Trait- Interior Faces.
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Oct 30, 2023 21:33
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Currently I slice for FDM with Elgoo Cura. The prints are amazing, but the UI is hot garbage. I downloaded Orca, and I love the UI, but the profile it has for the Neptune 4 Pro is vastly different than what the Elgoo Cura one is (that came w/ the printer). I exported both the machine and material profiles from Cura, but Orca won't import them. This is most likely due to me being dumb. Has anyone done this before?
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Oct 30, 2023 23:50
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had someone looking for some ww2 trucks for bolt action, i found some stuff on thingiverse and figured id give it a shot, i usually do this stuff in resin but hell, .12 fdm can look ok. 1:45 and 32 cents in filament later, we have a loving cool truck  theres a few tanks and other trucks to do, dude loved it and is buying a ton so hurray
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Nov 2, 2023 03:22
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Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat:Springfield Fatts posted:If I'm attempting resin prints and getting nothing but very well printed rafts and support nests with the actual models mounds of poo poo in my vat is the issue simply more supports? I'm heating the resin to 85F, lift speeds have been slowed to 65mm/m, and thought I was anchoring it well enough with a few heavy supports. I'm on my fourth attempt of these, each time adding more supports, each time failing with the same results.
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Nov 8, 2023 02:44
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That looks like it should be plenty of support. Have you successfully printed other things and are just having failures with these, or are these the first things you've attempted to print?
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Nov 8, 2023 02:48
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Like I said, the infuriating thing is I already have one plate of them correctly printed using these settings. I've also tried emptying / filtering resin, and reslicing the file in case there was some kind of error, and using a few different USBs just in case it some kind of issue there. All failing the same way.
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Nov 8, 2023 02:55
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I don't know if a slow lift speed really helps with that kind of issue. I have my lift speed set at 180 and it's been fine. I'm assuming you're using the same resin as before? The supports are looking fine but if everything is failing maybe try to do automatic supports with Lychee. Have you successfully printed anything else since you've had those issues?
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Nov 8, 2023 03:42
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Tried that, even with the usually over the top Ultra settings on the auto supports it still failed. I haven't tried any other prints since beating my head against this one, I'll try a different one tomorrow and see. Edit: same resin but like I said cleaned and filtered and successfully printing as recently as Sunday.
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Nov 8, 2023 04:02
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Those look like they're from the "March to Hell WW2" line by 3DBreed miniatures, I think they included presupported ones (or at least, I believe they did on the Kickstarters I backed). Maybe give one of the presupports a try and see.
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Nov 8, 2023 04:48
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They are, I usually rescale them making the presupports iffy but I'll try one and see how it goes.
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Nov 8, 2023 13:25
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Springfield Fatts posted:Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat: Sorry I missed out on that response over there. One thing I've done that is a bit of s sledgehammer-for-a-fly reaction when I just wanted something to print and didn't feel like digging deeper is to put one gigantic support at the lowest point as a huge-rear end anchor for everything else. Somewhere it won't be at all visible, like the bottom of that guy's back foot. Just a solid 1 or 2 mm rod, no tips for contact, just a solid rod. Won't get to the root of your issue but if it's all the supports along the way failing then an anchor at the bottom can sometimes give them all a chance to form. As for longer term, root cause stuff maybe try a few amerilab towns and tweak your lift speed or exposure time settings? Some of the little spikey things on the side of the town let you know how thin you can print before failure, from what you were saying it *can* print, you just have problems at the support juncture specifically which narrows it down in my mind to only the points where things are thin.
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Nov 8, 2023 13:46
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Springfield Fatts posted:Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat: I can't tell from the photo, but are all of the supports light? What I usually do with models like that is add a few "medium" supports on the foot or whatever's the bottom of the model, to act as a kind of anchor so that the light supports are less likely to pull off. If it's a big model I'll do a heavy support or two also.
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Nov 8, 2023 17:07
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Springfield Fatts posted:Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat: Echoing others that maybe a thicker support at the bottom of the feet might help. That guy has some Matt Gaetz forehead going.
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Nov 8, 2023 17:15
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Springfield Fatts posted:Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat: Those supports look fine afaik. Maybe you can tinker with them a bit, but I'd wonder what your settings are like. Have a screenshot of your resin profile?
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Nov 8, 2023 17:28
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w00tmonger posted:Those supports look fine afaik. Maybe you can tinker with them a bit, but I'd wonder what your settings are like. Have a screenshot of your resin profile? That's a point I'd also forgotten, if the exposure time for normal layers is too low, it'll print faster but the connection points between the minis and the supports will also be weaker (and if the time is too high, then the connection points will be stronger, but may also potentially damage the mini when removing them).
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Nov 8, 2023 17:49
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Yeah 90% of this is probably going to come down to settings/exposure more than anything. I'd be running off some cones of callibration and seeing where your at. Particularly awesome test because it's tuned for getting supports to be perfect w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 8, 2023 |
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Nov 8, 2023 19:25
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Some results and wanted to address a few points. The presupported mini printed fine, the rescaled one had two flubs that I predicted would happen when you shrink ones that you can't recalculate the supports on. Exposure: I'm running 2.7s per layer on ABS-like which was found using both the cubes and cones of calibration for honing in that time. Supports: these are all actually medium supports with heavies being used on the bottoms of the feet, first points of contact, etc. However my medium tip diameters are .28mm with a 2mm length vs the .68 / 3mm defaults. I don't love the idea of the damage and cleanup this would cause but that sure beats a puddle of goo so it's my next step. It still doesn't address that fact that i've been able to print perfectly fine with these settings for almost 5 months since getting the M3 but ah well.
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Nov 8, 2023 21:37
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Springfield Fatts posted:Some results and wanted to address a few points. The presupported mini printed fine, the rescaled one had two flubs that I predicted would happen when you shrink ones that you can't recalculate the supports on. Yeah something's off here. I run light supports on low density 99% of the time without issue Fep/LCD weird or damaged? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 8, 2023 |
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Nov 8, 2023 22:02
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Not that I can see. Fep is clear aside a few very minor dimples you'd see in normal wear and tear. Running the exposure / tank clean I don't see anything hosed in the LCD.
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Nov 8, 2023 22:41
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Any big temperature changes where you are, compared to when you did the successful print? Even indoors, my prints started failing like crazy in winter until I got a heating belt to preheat my resin vat.
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Nov 9, 2023 06:47
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Yeah, my printer is enclosed with a heater set to 85F. Turns out it was the support diameters, test models came out ok. Removal is more annoying and still doesn't explain why my .28s were working fine last month but I'll take a successful print over a failure any day.
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Nov 9, 2023 13:29
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What kind of heater works best? My printer is an Anycubic M5s if that matters.
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Nov 9, 2023 14:07
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I have one of these inside the case of my M3. True vat bands are more effective but I never liked the idea of permanently attaching it and then having one more thing dangling around while trying to avoid dripping resin everywhere.
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Nov 9, 2023 15:32
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I am immediately wondering if my difficult-to-predict-and-test-for problems are heat given it's winter.
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Nov 9, 2023 20:01
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I have drank the cool aide and have been watching and reading about 3d printing stuff for the past few weeks. My printer and other supplies have arrived today, may my wallet be protected.
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Nov 9, 2023 20:15
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spectralent posted:I am immediately wondering if my difficult-to-predict-and-test-for problems are heat given it's winter. My printer is up in my unheated attic, and when I put it in a box with a heater so I am always printing at the same temperature, my prints because amazingly consistent and so I highly recommend using something. Ambient temperature definitely affects exposure times, so eliminating that as a variable is a good thing to do.
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Nov 9, 2023 20:21
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BadLlama posted:I have drank the cool aide and have been watching and reading about 3d printing stuff for the past few weeks. My printer and other supplies have arrived today, may my wallet be protected. Whadja get?
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Nov 9, 2023 20:24
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BadLlama posted:I have drank the cool aide and have been watching and reading about 3d printing stuff for the past few weeks. My printer and other supplies have arrived today, may my wallet be protected. One of us, one of us. Honestly free poo poo from Thingiverse could keep you happily printing for a while.
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Nov 9, 2023 20:46
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I recommend buying a bundle from Loot Studios. They have a lot of cool models and their supports are really good, if even a little bit much. They are who I recommend to any first time printer. Also, it sounds odd, but printing smaller stuff can be harder, at least in the miniature world, so starting off with some 75mm figures can be a good introduction.
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Nov 9, 2023 20:52
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