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I've never bought an m.2 SSD drive before, but I'm thinking of getting one now since all my four SATA slots have been consumed and I don't want to do an "upgrade" from a smaller drive to a bigger my motherboard is the Asus Prime B550M-K https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/prime/prime-b550m-k/techspec/  it's supposed to be #6 that denotes the m.2 nvme slots, so I should have two; one "above" the PCIe slot for the GPU (that I have visually confirmed), and one below it  what this paragraph means is: - if I use the M.2_1 slot, which according to the diagram is the one above the GPU slot, that will cause the SSD to use the PCIe lanes of the CPU - if I use the M.2_2 slot, that would cause the SSD to use the PCIe lanes of the B550 chipset - my CPU is a Ryzen 5 5500, which as I understand it is actually the G-type APU just with the graphics disabled, which means using the M.2_1 slot will make it run with PCIe 3.0 x4 speeds am I getting all of that right? the one thing I don't quite get is the 22110, 2280, 2260, 2242 numbers on the diagram for the m.2 slot - as far as I can guess, that's a reference to which screw hole is going to be used by the m.2 SSD, since some of them are of different lengths. Is that going to be something I need to watch out for? Do these m.2 drives come with screws in the box? if the screws are supposed to come with the motherboard or the case, I will have to look for them
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Oct 16, 2023 03:51
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gradenko_2000 posted:I've never bought an m.2 SSD drive before, but I'm thinking of getting one now since all my four SATA slots have been consumed and I don't want to do an "upgrade" from a smaller drive to a bigger The NVMe drive numbers refer to their length, and yes this will mean that you will have to move the standoff and screw to the corresponding hole if it's not there already. It's a bit silly but they're 22mm wide and the rest of the numbers in mm long, so the numbering scheme is just a quick reference to their physical dimensions. Most retail PC NVMe drives are going to be 2280 but you can get shorter ones but they tend to be used in laptops more often. I replaced a drive for a user earlier this year with a fairly new 11th gen intel laptop that had a tiny little 2230 in it. The longer type, the 22110, are 11cm long and often don't fit under whatever heatspreader/cover the motherboard has (although they'll fit if there's a standoff spot for them). They're not that common, though, you probably won't find many in the retail space. The one 22110 drive I have is a Samsung with a bunch of capacitors that was a pull from some datacenter server and resold on ebay. Basically it's server hardware where the extra length went to capacitors so it could handle power interruptions more gracefully. You won't be buying those from amazon or newegg, you'll just be shopping for a retail WD or Samsung or whatever. Some NVMe drives come with a screw, I installed one a couple of weeks ago from Crucial (1TB Crucial P3) that had a screw in a baggy, but there's probably a standoff with a screw in it already on your motherboard. It may be under the heatspreader that they include on most boards now. If it's not there it may be with the original box of hardware. I usually keep all the extra hardware and accessories and stuff with the manual in the motherboard box so that I can find it if I need something. If you can't find it it can be worth buying them because the nvme screws are frustratingly different from all other PC fasteners. I change these things out a lot for work and bought a little baggy of overpriced ones on amazon to have on hand. As for your CPU, I'm not sure that it's true that the 5500 is a G model with no iGPU, usually they're more different than that. Unless there's something I don't know, a R5 5500 is just a 5000 series. I don't think there's even a 5500G, just a 5600G from what I can see. I'd put the NVMe drive in the M2_1 slot since you generally want it in the CPU PCI-E lanes for best performance. Either way if you get a PCIe 4.0 drive it will work fine even at PCIe 3.0 speeds and the difference won't likely be noticeable in day to day use. They're backwards and forwards compatible, they just run at the bus speed. I've got the ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming and I have a Solidigm 2TB in my main NVMe slot for my system drive with a 1TB SATA SSD with games and video file editing stuff on it and a 6TB HD with games I'm not playing but don't want to download again and linux ISOs.
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Oct 16, 2023 04:34
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I'm middle aged, balding, kinda (really) fat, and have kids. One of the very few joys left in my life is decorating my house for Halloween better than my dickhead neighbor Dustin (or "Dusty"). I want a flickering light to make the window facing the street "spooky" and I thought an RGB smart lightbulb could do the trick. Is there one I can program to flicker? Preferably wifi but I guess I can do a hub. I tried to research them but holy poo poo there's a million of them. I just want something I can program like all the dumb lights on my RGB fans and keyboard.
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Oct 19, 2023 05:47
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vaginite posted:I'm middle aged, balding, kinda (really) fat, and have kids. One of the very few joys left in my life is decorating my house for Halloween better than my dickhead neighbor Dustin (or "Dusty"). Govvee smart bulbs use an app that lets you set different animations, candle flickering is one of the animations. They're not expensive at all. It's not a perfect animation if I'm honest but for the price you can try it and there are like 40 different 'scenes' to pick from. I use a lot of govvee lights in my place. And hey gently caress Dusty (more like Ashy) boring house piece of poo poo dumbass neighbor get his rear end
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Oct 19, 2023 07:12
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VelociBacon posted:Govvee smart bulbs use an app that lets you set different animations, candle flickering is one of the animations. They're not expensive at all. It's not a perfect animation if I'm honest but for the price you can try it and there are like 40 different 'scenes' to pick from. I use a lot of govvee lights in my place. Thanks I’ll give those a try. And yeah gently caress Dusty, punk rear end salt-and-pepper hair bitch rear end bitch. Always waving at me and poo poo.
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Oct 19, 2023 07:19
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I would like to buy an m.2 PCI v4 drive for a new system to install the OS on. Nothing too big or fancy, just 512GB or 1TB (under €100). Are there any specific types or brands or whatever to specifically avoid or look for? Is there a good/bad tech to look for like CMR/SMR with HDDs or anything like that?
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Oct 23, 2023 09:13
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Associate Christ
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 Does anyone recognize this N-type male cable head on the RG-316 brown RF cable? I'm searching for it to write a guide on how to re-cut these cables for phase purposes but all I can find is the crimping type.
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Oct 25, 2023 01:23
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Wrr posted:
Kinda looks like this https://www.fairviewmicrowave.com/n...bBoCH_sQAvD_BwE
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Oct 25, 2023 01:29
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MarcusSA posted:Kinda looks like this Thanks but no, thats a crimping type. Look at the rear of the cable head. The one I need has a rear that screws on after being soldered. Edit- Started rummaging around my office opening various drawers and found an unopened connector body. Its a Pasternack PE4224 https://www.pasternack.com/n-male-standard-rg174-rg316-rg188-connector-pe4224-p.aspx Wrr fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Oct 25, 2023 |
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Oct 25, 2023 01:31
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I've got a Lenovo Universal USB-C Smart Dock that just started freaking out this morning with my Thinkpad P16s - A few minutes after plugging in and everything working fine, the attached monitors stop working, it throws a 'dock isn't supplying enough power' error, but other usb devices work fine. I've updated the firmware and that might have fixed it, but if not are there any other tips I could try before just sending it on warranty? Thing's only a month old or so.
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Oct 27, 2023 18:31
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I didn't realize that Bluetooth apparently uses less power than 2.4ghz via a dongle. I always used the latter to avoid BT interference issues (cause I noticed audio problems when I was using multiple BT device simultaneously). In the context of a wireless keyboard, where this came up, the latency difference shouldn't matter.
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Oct 27, 2023 23:44
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Would I be held back by my current RAM modules if I brought them into a new system? The new one would be a mid/high end one, maybe with a AMD 7700, or 7800X3D cpu. Current RAM is, according to HWiNFO: 32gb DDR4-3200 / PC4-25600
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Oct 29, 2023 08:10
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PirateBob posted:Would I be held back by my current RAM modules if I brought them into a new system? The new one would be a mid/high end one, maybe with a AMD 7700, or 7800X3D cpu. You can’t. Zen 4 requires DDR5, a new generation of memory.
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Oct 29, 2023 08:18
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Rinkles posted:You can’t. Zen 4 requires DDR5, a new generation of memory.  Ok, thanks for the quick reply. Could you please recommend some decent ddr5 modules for a mid-range sum? Edit: Would the same be the case for Intel? PirateBob fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Oct 29, 2023 |
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Oct 29, 2023 08:23
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PirateBob posted:
sorry i'm not up to date on DDR5 pricing. you could ask the PC Building thread. As an aside, your old RAM would work with new Intel CPUs (if you got the right motherboard), which a lot of people did when DDR5 was new and very expensive, but I'm not sure how well that advice has aged. Also worth asking in that thread.
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Oct 29, 2023 08:29
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other people posted:I would like to buy an m.2 PCI v4 drive for a new system to install the OS on. Nothing too big or fancy, just 512GB or 1TB (under €100). Are there any specific types or brands or whatever to specifically avoid or look for? Is there a good/bad tech to look for like CMR/SMR with HDDs or anything like that? You might want to check the SSD thread - there are some recommendations in recent pages, I think. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3788665&pagenumber=207#lastpost
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Oct 29, 2023 10:15
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PirateBob posted:
As Rinkles said, Intel 12th-14th gen CPUs can use DDR4 or DDR5 depending on which motherboard you buy for them (there's different chipsets for the ram compatibility). It's probably not the best idea to get a very high end CPU and use slower DDR4 but if you're on a budget it's possible. Bear in mind that the Intel motherboards are pretty expensive and a the chips use a lot of watts so you need a beefy cooler, that kind of all adds up when putting together a new system. Depending how old your previous system it's possible getting an AMD R7-5800X3D and a B550 motherboard would be a better budget upgrade, but that will depend on how much you're looking to spend and what you want to play. It's true that the 5000 series Ryzen are slower than the 7000 series but the 5800X3D is holding up well in some games that benefit from the 3D cache. Definitely stop by the PC building/part picking thread with what you have and what you think you want to build and what your goals are for the system, it's pretty easy to price stuff out with sites like pcpartpicker.
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Oct 29, 2023 12:50
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I had a PC bought and built at Microcenter. It started shutting off randomly about a month ago, and I diagnosed it as the CPU overheating. I took it back to MC and they found out that the cover sticker on the heat sink was never removed!! After removing it and repasting, the temps have been steady around 40-50 C. Now I'm concerned the month or so of overheating might have damaged the CPU shortening its life. Should I take it back and have them replace it while it's still under warranty?
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Oct 30, 2023 08:25
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medchem posted:I had a PC bought and built at Microcenter. It started shutting off randomly about a month ago, and I diagnosed it as the CPU overheating. I took it back to MC and they found out that the cover sticker on the heat sink was never removed!! I probably wouldn't worry about it myself if it's working normally now. When CPUs overheat they turn down their clock multiplier (downclock) to like 800mhz or something so they won't get damaged. It probably seemed like the machine was running like poo poo at that point, but they throttle like that at around 99C for most chips (some are lower). While it's not great to keep them hot like that they usually would burn up and get damaged at much higher temps. If you're worried it might be damaged you could run Prime95 or memtest86 just to make sure the system is stable. Tests like Prime95 will make the CPU run much hotter than normal, but these tests will generally catch hardware problems that could be CPU, motherboard, or RAM related.
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Oct 30, 2023 08:46
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Short version of the question - is there any good / easy way to convert from the female end of a C13 power cable to standard US power plug? Longer version with context - I just bought a VR setup and need to get base stations up and powered. Most of my usage will likely be seated so I'd like to get them cleanly integrated into my current desk setup. The best candidates for location are either the tops of my side monitors or on my speakers, all of which are wall mounted. The complication is I've spent entirely too much time and effort to cleanly run all my cables through the wall. This looks nice and clean but is a pain to work with. There's no good way to run a new power cable to either of these places. However, they each have C13 power already run and in use. If I can split this off and convert to a regular 'ol outlet, I can keep it all nice with minimal fuss. I just can't find such a thing and searching is only giving me the opposite direction of what I want. Thanks!
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Oct 30, 2023 18:05
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I feel like the answer is "just get a short extension cord" as is the answer for most "I want to bodge a different end onto a cord" questions but maybe I'm misunderstanding the situation.
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Oct 30, 2023 19:34
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You mean this?: https://www.showmecables.com/cpu-pdu-power-cord-c14-to-nema-5-15r-10-amp-1-5-ft There are fused and switched multi-port taps too: https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-2-Inch-Housing-Outlets-Adapter/dp/B0094BC32Y/
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Oct 30, 2023 19:50
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Arrath posted:I feel like the answer is "just get a short extension cord" as is the answer for most "I want to bodge a different end onto a cord" questions but maybe I'm misunderstanding the situation. It's a very silly situation but I don't have a good way to run another cable up to the speakers where I'm thinking without having a cable hanging where it's ugly. The power all runs through the wall and in a curvey path that won't just drop straight down.  After further thought, I can probably make the top of the monitors work without extra junk though. Eletriarnation posted:You mean this?: https://www.showmecables.com/cpu-pdu-power-cord-c14-to-nema-5-15r-10-amp-1-5-ft That is exactly what I'm thinking. Thanks!
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Oct 30, 2023 19:59
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That looks really really slick, just FYI. Nice job.
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Oct 30, 2023 21:08
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Rexxed posted:As Rinkles said, Intel 12th-14th gen CPUs can use DDR4 or DDR5 depending on which motherboard you buy for them (there's different chipsets for the ram compatibility). It's probably not the best idea to get a very high end CPU and use slower DDR4 but if you're on a budget it's possible. Bear in mind that the Intel motherboards are pretty expensive and a the chips use a lot of watts so you need a beefy cooler, that kind of all adds up when putting together a new system. Depending how old your previous system it's possible getting an AMD R7-5800X3D and a B550 motherboard would be a better budget upgrade, but that will depend on how much you're looking to spend and what you want to play. It's true that the 5000 series Ryzen are slower than the 7000 series but the 5800X3D is holding up well in some games that benefit from the 3D cache. I have a b550 + 5600x. It's pretty much good enough for a while longer. I'm just doing some pre-planning. Speaking of which - should I be buying SSDs now, rather than wait until I'm ready to build a new pc? Prices are pretty low atm, but there are rumblings that a manufacturer, I forget which, is planning to drive up NAND prices by +20% per quarter soon...
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Nov 6, 2023 10:36
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Do you want to use it as a primary drive in a future upgrade or just as storage? For the former, you’ll want an NVME drive - check if you have a spare NVME slot. Your older mb likely only supports pcie 4.0 - 4.0 drives are cheap now, no reason not to get one right away. Upgrading to current gen offers pcie 5.0 compatibility. I think pcie 5.0 doesn’t offer any significant advantages for consumer use and they are expensive at the moment. Someone please correct me if I’m off base. For the latter, yeah it’s a good time to get an M2 drive.
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Nov 6, 2023 11:21
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I've just built a new pc and have a question about power. I've got an ATX 3.0 PSU - Corsair rm850x shift, and an RTX 4080. The 4080 came with a 3 way splitter for the power, but my PSU came with a 12VHPWR 2 way splitter. To use the 3 way splitter that the GPU came with I'd need to get an extra cable, but I can also just use the 12VHPWR cable that came with my PSU. Is that going to be safe to do? From what I have found online the 12VHPWR 2 way splitter can deliver up to 600W so it seems ok? But I'd rather get some peace of mind on this insanely expensive GPU I just bought!
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Nov 6, 2023 11:54
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Fruits of the sea posted:Do you want to use it as a primary drive in a future upgrade or just as storage? I already have a 1tb nvme m2 ssd as my OS drive. I'm pretty sure the mainboard (msi mpg b550 gaming carbon wifi) has another nvme slot, but there was something about it, it's slower or something, don't remember exactly. And I have a 2tb sata ssd for storage. The question is, do I buy a 2tb nvme m2 now as my next OS drive, and don't use it yet. Or do use it in the slower slot, for storage and then empty it when it's time for the next build. Or just get another 2tb sata ssd for storage (I keep running out of space, and these are also pretty cheap now), and then re-use my current 1tb nvme for my next pc's OS. But idk if buying sata is wise at all now.
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Nov 6, 2023 12:21
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I bought a 20TB hard drive because i never wanted to have to think about storage again. Anything that's sensitive to access speeds goes on the system SSD.
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Nov 6, 2023 14:09
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Instant Grat posted:I bought a 20TB hard drive because i never wanted to have to think about storage again. Anything that's sensitive to access speeds goes on the system SSD. I hope you rember to look at this post in 6 years!
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Nov 6, 2023 19:52
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VelociBacon posted:I hope you rember to look at this post in 6 years! I guess it's possible I'll have filled it out by then, but I doubt it
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Nov 6, 2023 20:25
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In the late 90s/early 00s I got an 8 GB hard drive and thought I'd never ever ever have to worry about storage again. Now I can't even find USB thumbdrives smaller than that to stick in brand new lab equipment that can't handle FAT32 larger than 4 GB.
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Nov 6, 2023 22:48
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Geemer posted:In the late 90s/early 00s I got an 8 GB hard drive and thought I'd never ever ever have to worry about storage again. Remember these bad boys  10mb of internal storage, not a tape in sight. Back when mfm meant something completely different
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Nov 6, 2023 23:32
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I have a satellite receiver that apparently wouldn't handle usb sticks larger than 16GB when flashing the firmware. And then it turned out that if the first and only partition on it was smaller than that, it didn't matter what the actual size of the stick was. I tried that fully expecting that it simply wouldn't work. I don't think that's typically how these things work though.
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Nov 6, 2023 23:47
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We joke, but especially if used primarily as an archive drive, 20 terabytes of data is going to be difficult to fill in most of a human lifetime. Modern games aren't gonna go on there because of all the streaming reads they do from the SSD, and most media file sizes are a known quantity by this point.
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Nov 6, 2023 23:54
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Flipperwaldt posted:I have a satellite receiver that apparently wouldn't handle usb sticks larger than 16GB when flashing the firmware. And then it turned out that if the first and only partition on it was smaller than that, it didn't matter what the actual size of the stick was. I tried that fully expecting that it simply wouldn't work. I don't think that's typically how these things work though. That's exactly how those things work! I've found some usb sticks can be a nightmare trying to undo this to allow formatting to the full size again.
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Nov 7, 2023 00:32
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Flipperwaldt posted:I have a satellite receiver that apparently wouldn't handle usb sticks larger than 16GB when flashing the firmware. And then it turned out that if the first and only partition on it was smaller than that, it didn't matter what the actual size of the stick was. I tried that fully expecting that it simply wouldn't work. I don't think that's typically how these things work though. Ooh, if that works for my stuff it'll be very helpful indeed, thanks for the tip. VelociBacon posted:That's exactly how those things work! I've found some usb sticks can be a nightmare trying to undo this to allow formatting to the full size again. The diskpart clean command has always let me unfuck usb drive partitions so far. Just be very sure you've got the right disk selected.
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Nov 7, 2023 01:06
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This is probably not the right thread for this but it's the closest I could find. Are there any goon recommendations for a good electronics work bench/table. I'm looking for something pretty sizable (80" long? though can be shorter) that I can sit at and use as a place to do soldering/PCB repairs/etc. and maybe have a shelf for a desktop setup.
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Nov 7, 2023 01:58
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Is there a better/faster/more modern burn-in test suite than the ol' memtest86+/prime95 combo?
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Nov 7, 2023 16:57
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Is there a better/faster/more modern burn-in test suite than the ol' memtest86+/prime95 combo? I sometimes use OCCT these days to have it all in one software but it's probably not as hard hitting.
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Nov 7, 2023 18:02
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