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Construction site orange is a really good colour for that space dwarfette.
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Nov 4, 2023 08:51
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As an orange painter (gotta get back to my non DW Marie’s someday), I find orange a better secondary color. Jokaero is great, but I think having white as a main color really lets it stand out and avoid the construction look. I would also slap some Feugan wash in there then rebase. I don’t bother with any other oranges for highlights, I just tint up using some white or Pallid Wych.
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Nov 4, 2023 11:13
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I just finished basing my Vertus Praetor, so I have now fully finished constructing and painting my Adeptus Custodes Compat Patrol (plus an additional five wardens). I've been collecting Warhammer on and off since I was a child, but this is the first time I've managed to build a full coherent (if small) army. I've been careful to avoid buying faster than I can paint, so all I have left is an (unassembled) box of Allarus Custodians, as well as a Blade Champion. Now I need to decide where to go next. I'm not interested in competitive play, but I still want a reasonably balanced army. One of my prospective opponents (and the one who convinced me to start up Warhammer again) owns an unsettling number of Baneblades and at least one Knight, so I figure I should add some anti-tank weaponry. I heard through the grapevine that the Caladius tank is the best anti-tank the Custodes have, but tanks don't really fit with the theme I have for my army. Dreadnoughts, however, do. I already plan on getting a Telemon, but what else would be useful in an anti-tank role? Hell, what even makes for a good anti-tank weapon? Looking at the Caladius stats, I would guess that "anti-tank" means a low number of high-S high-D attacks (particularly the latter). The Concemptor-Achillus melee weapon (A5, S12, AP-2, D6+1 wounds) looks like it would do OK in melee, but perhaps I'm missing something. I guess I can always find out the hard way.
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Nov 4, 2023 12:43
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Athas posted:I just finished basing my Vertus Praetor, so I have now fully finished constructing and painting my Adeptus Custodes Compat Patrol (plus an additional five wardens). I've been collecting Warhammer on and off since I was a child, but this is the first time I've managed to build a full coherent (if small) army. I've been careful to avoid buying faster than I can paint, so all I have left is an (unassembled) box of Allarus Custodians, as well as a Blade Champion. The Caladius Grav Tank is excellent anti-tank, range and twin linked etc. help a lot. It's unfortunate that it's a forgeworld model. Anti tank without range (i.e. dreadnought weapons) are hard to make work, gonna be a loooong walk to the opponent's baneblade.
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Nov 4, 2023 13:20
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Did they do something to the neck line on that suit for it to fit the helmeted option or is it simply just a slightly different size than a regular Hearthguard helmet? Can't get one to fit for the life of me. Probably just time for me to learn to use green stuff.
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Nov 4, 2023 14:25
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Can I ask what orange you're using for that? I was trying some recently but my Slayer Orange is supposed to be a highlight or whatever and spreads like poo poo and my Vallejo version of it is.. oily?
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Nov 4, 2023 16:19
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I think I just spent 5 hours gluing together 5 miniatures. Only 20 more guardsmen left to go.
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Nov 4, 2023 16:26
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Thanks everyone, went to the local hobby store this morning and got some regular Tamiya and some quick setting Tamiya. Will give it a go.
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Nov 4, 2023 18:35
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No Luck Needed posted:Mr Cement is good too, but you should be able to find both at Hobby Lobby Please consider shopping at retailers besides Hobby Lobby btw, they still donate a bunch of money to bigots and nutjobs
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Nov 4, 2023 18:52
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Hey everyone! Trad games secret santa is up and running for another year. Come join the fun, if you find sending and receiving nerdy game gifts fun!
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Nov 4, 2023 19:34
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Improbable Lobster posted:Please consider shopping at retailers besides Hobby Lobby btw, they still donate a bunch of money to bigots and nutjobs And the owners have been repeatedly implicated in buying stolen antiquities from the Middle East.
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Nov 4, 2023 19:40
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Improbable Lobster posted:Please consider shopping at retailers besides Hobby Lobby btw, they still donate a bunch of money to bigots and nutjobs Yeah I did not go there and refuse to.
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Nov 4, 2023 20:14
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No Luck Needed posted:Mr Cement is good too, but you should be able to find both at Hobby Lobby Mr Cement SP (purple top) is the same pure solvent-style glue like Tamiya Extra Thin but better IMO. More melty, cures faster but doesn't seem to evaporate as quickly as Extra Thin for some reason.
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Nov 4, 2023 20:53
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Yeah my bottle of extra thin Tamiya evaporates in seconds, but it's also a very old bottle and I don't know if that makes a difference.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:01
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This Tamiya stuff doesn't seem to work on resin? It works hella good on plastic stuff though.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:22
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BadLlama posted:This Tamiya stuff doesn't seem to work on resin? It works hella good on plastic stuff though. Plastic cement like Tamiya Extra Thin (and also things like Citadel Plastic Cement) is a solvent that melts plastic; once the cement evaporates the plastic hardens again, and so you use it to bond two pieces of plastic by essentially making them into one piece of plastic. It only works on styrene plastic, though -- no resin, no PVC (so, Reaper Bones type material), no metal. For those materials you need superglue or epoxy, which are actual glues -- a separate compound that bonds things to itself.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:30
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BadLlama posted:This Tamiya stuff doesn't seem to work on resin? It works hella good on plastic stuff though. That's because it melts the plastic. But it doesn't melt the resin. You have to use super glue with resin or perhaps epoxy I suppose.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:30
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rantmo posted:And the owners have been repeatedly implicated in buying stolen antiquities from the Middle East. I have to say, 'illegally trafficking thousands of historical artifacts from a warzone for your bible museum' was not on my 'lovely retail store' bingo card, one of the more bizarre plot twists.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:46
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I have been educated, thank you.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:48
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BadLlama posted:I have been educated, thank you. Super glue will also work on plastic, but I like to keep both around because in addition to a plastic cement bond being incredibly strong, Tamiya is an excellent small gap filler & difficult mold line eraser. You can bridge over larger gaps with small pieces of sprue or shavings and then use it to smooth over the finish as well. After it's completely dry you can sand, etc.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:59
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Stephenls posted:Plastic cement like Tamiya Extra Thin (and also things like Citadel Plastic Cement) is a solvent that melts plastic; once the cement evaporates the plastic hardens again, and so you use it to bond two pieces of plastic by essentially making them into one piece of plastic. It only works on styrene plastic, though -- no resin, no PVC (so, Reaper Bones type material), no metal. For those materials you need superglue or epoxy, which are actual glues -- a separate compound that bonds things to itself. It's also worth distinguishing between the pure solvent cements (Extra Thin, Mr Cement SP) vs regular plastic cements (GW, regular Tamiya and Mr Cement). The former need the parts to be properly flush for a bond as the material needs to be able to melt together and fuse. The latter does have a small amount of plastic dissolved in so it can bridge small gaps. Sprue goo just takes this to the extreme by dissolving a lot more plastic into the scent. Older plastic kits tend to be a lot more gappy and the solvent cements have a harder time with them. Newer kits with their ultra-fine CAD tolerances do better with the solvents - the downside of the plastic-infused cements is they leave a residue which is less desirable when there's no gap to fill.
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Nov 4, 2023 22:18
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Ashcans posted:I have to say, 'illegally trafficking thousands of historical artifacts from a warzone for your bible museum' was not on my 'lovely retail store' bingo card, one of the more bizarre plot twists. Thousands of COUNTERFEIT historical artifacts. When even ISIS clowns on you, just hang it up.
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Nov 4, 2023 23:31
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Lostconfused posted:I think I just spent 5 hours gluing together 5 miniatures. and then comes painting... It really never ends with guard. I went mechanized to cut down on the raw number of troops I'd need. However, my 1000pts list also includes way too many vehicles, to paint. Z the IVth posted:Mr Cement SP (purple top) is the same pure solvent-style glue like Tamiya Extra Thin but better IMO. More melty, cures faster but doesn't seem to evaporate as quickly as Extra Thin for some reason. I also use this and completely agree, it is the one time I don't go with the Tamiya product. It is so thin and wicks so well I saw it go from one end of a Chimera to the other once.
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Nov 4, 2023 23:55
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Professor Shark posted:As an orange painter (gotta get back to my non DW Marie’s someday), I find orange a better secondary color. Jokaero is great, but I think having white as a main color really lets it stand out and avoid the construction look. I would like to add some more contrast to that model, somebody suggested a orange contrast paint, do you have a recommendation there? I don't know that I have an orange contrast paint at all, and I don't think using a dark wash to do recess shading is going to look good without it looking messy, and probably causing me to go back and repaint a lot of the surfaces that the wash touched, and I'd like to avoid that. I also don't quite understand what you mean by the wash and rebase? Shoehead posted:Can I ask what orange you're using for that? I was trying some recently but my Slayer Orange is supposed to be a highlight or whatever and spreads like poo poo and my Vallejo version of it is.. oily? It's ProAcryl Orange Douche Phoenix posted:Did they do something to the neck line on that suit for it to fit the helmeted option or is it simply just a slightly different size than a regular Hearthguard helmet? Can't get one to fit for the life of me. Probably just time for me to learn to use green stuff. I'm not sure. Honestly, I just stuck the female head on her. I think somebody else commented asking about that and I believe they said they had to cut it to fit, one of the iron kin heads GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 01:44
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Oh poo poo, I didn't realize the Aktaeus was in fact the Mole being referenced. I couldn't find an official dimensions listed, but considering the Ordinatus Aktaeus and Ordinatus Ulator share the same base tracks, I'm willing to bet the similarity in size between the two is adequate enough to run with the measurements I did find. Per a rando reddit post: "36cm long, 18cm wide if you have the sponsons attached and 16cm tall." So 11.8" L, 7" W, 6.3" H The toy I got for $1 is: 11" L, 4" W, 4" H So not quite there, but the again this thing isn't on tracks like the Aktaeus. If I can find an stl for that tracked base I think it will work perfectly though
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Nov 5, 2023 01:56
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The Hearthguard proportions just don't look Dwarven to me
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Nov 5, 2023 01:57
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I would like to add some more contrast to that model, somebody suggested a orange contrast paint, do you have a recommendation there? I don't know that I have an orange contrast paint at all, and I don't think using a dark wash to do recess shading is going to look good without it looking messy, and probably causing me to go back and repaint a lot of the surfaces that the wash touched, and I'd like to avoid that. I don’t have very much experience with contrasts, however the stuff that I’ve bolded is basically what I do with most models (except for when I decide to pinwash). It’s a drag sometimes repainting stuff you’ve already painted, but it does add a lot to the models. Wash/ Rebase = Shade, then repaint except for the shaded areas
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Nov 5, 2023 01:58
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The Demilich posted:The Hearthguard proportions just don't look Dwarven to me They look like terran marines.
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Nov 5, 2023 02:12
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The Demilich posted:The Hearthguard proportions just don't look Dwarven to me c'mooooon, he's just a little guyyyyy, just a little birthday boyyyyy, c'moooonnnn
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Nov 5, 2023 02:14
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Lots of people itt asking for a grudgin’
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Nov 5, 2023 02:25
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Cooked Auto posted:I would just throw the regular Guard force organisation out the window. So did every existing regiment.
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Nov 5, 2023 05:16
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Lostconfused posted:Yeah my bottle of extra thin Tamiya evaporates in seconds, but it's also a very old bottle and I don't know if that makes a difference. Tamiya thin is excellent but if you try and use it like a regular glue, applying it and then sticking two bits together, you will find it doesn’t work particularly well and evaporated really fast. The trick with the thin stuff and what makes it really nice is making use of capillary action, you hold your pieces together and just touch the brush to the seam and it will flow through the entire joint making no mess from you squishing bits together. Don’t overload the glue brush, you’ll find a single touch with a small amount is enough to shoot round, for example, the halves of a space marine torso. For larger things like vehicle hulls with long seams just apply at a few points around the connecting point.
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Nov 5, 2023 11:21
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Mr Teatime posted:Tamiya thin is excellent but if you try and use it like a regular glue, applying it and then sticking two bits together, you will find it doesn’t work particularly well and evaporated really fast. The trick with the thin stuff and what makes it really nice is making use of capillary action, you hold your pieces together and just touch the brush to the seam and it will flow through the entire joint making no mess from you squishing bits together. You're right, that is what the instructions on the bottle say you should do. Easier with scale models than warhammer miniatures though. They have some awkward joints, and even more awkward when attaching the base sometimes.
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Nov 5, 2023 14:34
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15/25 guardsmen assembled, more than halfway there.
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Nov 5, 2023 15:27
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X-posting from painting thread Hey check out this converted Vostroyan Officer I'm working on! He's going to be commanding my bombast artillery gun in my Vostroyan combat patrol. I've got some touch ups to do, photos always reveal them... but he's 95% done. No basing because he's going into the gun team. I'm thinking of painting the liner of his coat a beige or something far lighter to give a bit more contrast, he's very brown.    He's a kit-bash of these guys, plus some sculpting.  
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Nov 5, 2023 16:32
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The leather on that coat is amazing, do you have a tutorial or can you share how you did it?
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Nov 5, 2023 16:42
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Kitchner posted:The leather on that coat is amazing, do you have a tutorial or can you share how you did it? Thanks! https://imgur.com/gallery/LyrtFU3 That is the guide I very loosely followed. You can tell I skipped the last couple steps as I feel they push the distressing of the leather too far into a marble or stone-like look. I did some very sloppy and very light drybrushing with my oldest, most destroyed dry brush instead to try to get distressing that felt more to scale.
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Nov 5, 2023 16:48
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The coat looks great, and looking at the guide I would have stopped at step 4 or 5 depending on the results.
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Nov 5, 2023 17:08
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Onto the second squad of guardsmen and I'm already destroying plastic because the manual only provides two poses per miniature and I don't want to repeat any of the ones I did some hours ago.
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Nov 5, 2023 17:21
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Virtual Russian posted:Thanks! Your models look great and thanks for sharing that resource.
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Nov 5, 2023 18:24
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