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the yeti posted:I trust your judgement, it just seemed counterintuitive to me comparing tearing up walls on two floors to redoing a bunch of accessible piping in an unfinished basement, hence the question. It's obviously dependent on how easily accessible your pipes are and such, but if you don't have PEX pipes or similar flexible piping already, then adding in a manifold is already going to involve a lot of janky-rear end solutions to get existing metal pipes to meet up with it, especially if the plan is to get each radiator its own connection directly from the manifold if currently, as I understand your drawing, each side of the house has its own outgoing hot water pipe that splits off to each radiator as it passes it. So it's largely just extra work you're going to have to scrap again, in any configuration I can imagine.
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Nov 1, 2023 14:39
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PurpleXVI posted:It's obviously dependent on how easily accessible your pipes are and such, but if you don't have PEX pipes or similar flexible piping already, then adding in a manifold is already going to involve a lot of janky-rear end solutions to get existing metal pipes to meet up with it, especially if the plan is to get each radiator its own connection directly from the manifold if currently, as I understand your drawing, each side of the house has its own outgoing hot water pipe that splits off to each radiator as it passes it. So it's largely just extra work you're going to have to scrap again, in any configuration I can imagine. So yeah I’m definitely missing something. I was envisioning adapting pex to existing cast iron right about where the run ascends up into the wall/floor, e.g., [timg] https://i.imgur.com/o6PvE8s.jpg[/timg] I had figured there would be enough play in the pex to let me get everything connected, is that not the case? I agree having to line the runs up dead nuts on to the existing cast iron would be futile. If it helps this a piece of what I’m actually looking at: 
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Nov 1, 2023 18:15
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the yeti posted:So yeah I’m definitely missing something. I was envisioning adapting pex to existing cast iron right about where the run ascends up into the wall/floor, e.g., It depends a lot on how easily accessible the pipes are and also how old they are. If they're sufficiently old pipes, then once you start messing with them to get the PEX connected, you might find yourself having to replace some of them anyway, for instance if old threading crumbles or there's not a lot of accessible pipe to work with, and in those cases just being free to tear the whole thing up and start from scratch would save a lot of work and effort. If the pipes are all nice and visible down in your basement and no big brain genius original owner made it difficult, it might not be a lot of work, but my experience is generally that black/cast iron stuff is A) old, B) does not age gracefully and C) it can be hell to work with without loving something else up. So, it's not that you can't do it, and it's not that it might not improve things, it's just that you might end up doubling how much work you'll have to do if you're planning a bigger revamp later anyway.
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Nov 1, 2023 18:26
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Thanks for stepping me through that, it makes a lot more sense now  (And there have been at least two brain genius previous owners lolsob)
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Nov 1, 2023 19:24
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The most important question is why are you attempting to do this now, at the beginning of the heating season? (unless your in the southern hemisphere and in that case carry on this is the perfect time) If it's because something is broken/not working/leaking you should probably do the minimum to address that for this season and use the winter to plan other work that can/should be done while you remove/replace pipes this summer.
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Nov 1, 2023 19:29
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Motronic posted:The most important question is why are you attempting to do this now, at the beginning of the heating season? (unless your in the southern hemisphere and in that case carry on this is the perfect time) Ah I should have been more clear, it’s on my mind because heating season just started but i don’t intend to do anything with this til this coming spring
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Nov 1, 2023 19:45
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the yeti posted:Ah I should have been more clear, it’s on my mind because heating season just started but i don’t intend to do anything with this til this coming spring Oh, then carry on. There are some really sweet manifolds for hydronic setups that allow you to all kinds of cool stuff like control the flow on each circuit and switch them together or individually to make a zoned system. https://www.ferguson.com/product/uponor-5-loop-1-in.-stainless-steel-manifold-assembly-with-flow-meter-ua2700502/4900075.html?searchIndex=0 Those are pretty beefy and come in all kinds of configurations.
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Nov 1, 2023 19:58
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Motronic posted:Oh, then carry on. There are some really sweet manifolds for hydronic setups that allow you to all kinds of cool stuff like control the flow on each circuit and switch them together or individually to make a zoned system. Cool yeah that’s the dream. I like radiator heat a lot I’d just like it to be more consistent and controllable.
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Nov 1, 2023 21:26
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My spidey sense is telling me there's asbestos insulation on those pipes, that has been DIY "encapsulated" with that duct wrap. So be very very careful even looking under that duct wrap, and keep remediation in mind for your plans.
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Nov 1, 2023 22:06
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FISHMANPET posted:My spidey sense is telling me there's asbestos insulation on those pipes, that has been DIY "encapsulated" with that duct wrap. So be very very careful even looking under that duct wrap, and keep remediation in mind for your plans. Oh yeah. I was marvelling at how nice that one bit of exposed radiator pipe looks. Mine all look like poo poo, not the least of which because there was asbestos insulation on all of it at some point but somebody got rid of it and there's some sort of adhesive on all the elbows from that time.
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Nov 2, 2023 17:50
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Illuminado posted:Had a fun weekend. Girlfriend asked if I could install new shower fixtures that she picked up a while ago, complained that it was hard to dial in the temp on her old Delta knob valve and had pretty low pressure on the hot line. I have the exact same problem. A shower with a delta valve that has wild swings in temperature even when I'm not moving the knob. It seems like it's always delayed by 30 - 60 seconds after adjusting the knob. I even had a recirculation pump installed because it would take 5 minutes for my shower to get warm, but now it's warm sooner, but will randomly get scalding hot 3 minutes into a shower. I also have low hot water pressure throughout the house. Is replacing that mixing valve the answer? If the pipes are full of rust, is there a chemical way to knock it all loose?
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Nov 2, 2023 19:39
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Lord Wexia posted:I have the exact same problem. A shower with a delta valve that has wild swings in temperature even when I'm not moving the knob. It seems like it's always delayed by 30 - 60 seconds after adjusting the knob. I even had a recirculation pump installed because it would take 5 minutes for my shower to get warm, but now it's warm sooner, but will randomly get scalding hot 3 minutes into a shower. I also have low hot water pressure throughout the house. General Disclaimer, I'm not the most knowledgeable guy on these forums when it comes to plumbing. The delay sounds odd to me, can you confirm that no other faucets / washer / dishwasher / toilets / etc are contributing to that? The quickest and easiest thing to try (if you haven't already) is to just flush out the valve and shower head. It can spray water everywhere, but you might clear out some debris that's blocking your water flow. When I flushed this one out, all sorts of gross black sediment shot out, was real nasty. If you have galvanized pipes, that rust is probably going to just choke out the water pressure and keep things difficult. Depending on the layout of the house it may make more sense to just replace those lines. Otherwise, I know there are new fancy solutions to blast out the rust in the pipes and layer a thin coat of epoxy in there to create a barrier, but it can be pricy, so you may have to do some math to see what works for you long term.
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Nov 3, 2023 00:14
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I have a phyn water monitor with shutoff valve on my main water line and the sov recently stopped working and now the entire unit doesn't power on so I'm grinding my way through their terrible customer support to troubleshoot (ive power cycled it so many times now...). My best case outcome is they send a warranty replacement, but that doesn't cover plumber costs to swap. How easy would this be to do myself own, (or screw up) and literally just swap the Device like for like? Assuming I just needed plumbing tape, orings then unscrew and remove and screw the new one in?  Does the entire fitting between the copper pipe and the phyn rotate together, or do both ends rotate separately so I can loosen the connection to the phyn, without also affecting the connection to the copper main? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 04:40
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It's very hard to tell from your photo (no fault of yours); it does appear that the largest nuts - the ones that fasten to the device itself, are slip fittings - they ride on the pipe following. What you want to do is 1) Shut off any supply to the lines serving the device; 2) Put a wrench on one and give it a slight turn, and see if it does. If it does, then yes, it should be a simple matter of unscrewing the device from both ends.
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Nov 5, 2023 14:46
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It would be very easy to remove, the black plastic part is what's going to get replaced, you just undo the brass on both hands, no need to change or to even turn anything else. Just make sure not to over tighten during reinstallation.
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Nov 5, 2023 14:59
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Moving to a rental soon and obviously want to replace the showerhead, but the shower arm is an angled shorty type of deal. How dumb and/or easy is it to also replace the shower arm as well so I can get myself a decent rainfall shower head pointing in a usable direction?
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Nov 5, 2023 15:03
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KKKLIP ART posted:Moving to a rental soon and obviously want to replace the showerhead, but the shower arm is an angled shorty type of deal. How dumb and/or easy is it to also replace the shower arm as well so I can get myself a decent rainfall shower head pointing in a usable direction? It can take two minutes or transform into a multi-day project. It all depends on how stuck the current shower arm is and how well the elbow in the wall is secured to the studs.
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Nov 5, 2023 15:46
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Shifty Pony posted:It can take two minutes or transform into a multi-day project. It all depends on how stuck the current shower arm is and how well the elbow in the wall is secured to the studs. Yeah, definitely don't try to do that in a rental.
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Nov 5, 2023 19:15
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KKKLIP ART posted:Moving to a rental soon and obviously want to replace the showerhead, but the shower arm is an angled shorty type of deal. How dumb and/or easy is it to also replace the shower arm as well so I can get myself a decent rainfall shower head pointing in a usable direction? As someone who always replaced the shower heads in rentals because breaking the law is fun - can you post a picture? Normally with your HANDS gripping the outlet from the wall and the screwed on thing RIGHT at the threaded part you can get an idea of how well it's attached. If it turns with no leverage (wrenches, the angled part of the shower head, etc - no mechanical advantage other than your big goony hands) you're probably safe. If it snaps something make sure someone tall enough to hit it is over when you report it and say they slipped.  They really should have anti-slip coating on the bottom of the shower, jeez.(Never do work on a rental, but if it unscrews easily WITH YOUR HANDS then it's pretty similar to changing a light bulb. I would do it during business hours.)
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Nov 6, 2023 01:01
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Nitrox posted:It would be very easy to remove, the black plastic part is what's going to get replaced, you just undo the brass on both hands, no need to change or to even turn anything else. Just make sure not to over tighten during reinstallation. Or looks low I also need some rubber o-ring gaskets which I DO understand and is easy, but probably anewbie question. Good right is overnighting? It's our just sitting you know by feel eventually?
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Nov 9, 2023 05:49
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PageMaster posted:Or looks low I also need some rubber o-ring gaskets which I DO understand and is easy, but probably anewbie question. Good right is overnighting? It's our just sitting you know by feel eventually? I imagine the new part should come with all necessary gaskets.
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Nov 9, 2023 15:13
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Squashy Nipples posted:What do you pros think of the new Heat Pump hot-water heaters? I got a Ruud 50G heat pump water heater last year in my garage while I was getting Solar and a garage subpanel installed and it's been great so far and in my mild Sacramento, CA area climate only takes $6-$10 per month to run. The great thing is the City offered some huge rebates to get one installed and I didn't have to do any paperwork at all. Dumping the old janky vent stack and sealing up the roof was a bonus.
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Nov 14, 2023 05:29
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Nitrox posted:I imagine the new part should come with all necessary gaskets. The original did for sure, but the RMA does not. After talking with phyn support for another two weeks, they've told me to be careful and not lose the gaskets when removing the existing device; are those reusable? I feel like you would want to replace them but I need to size them based on the screenshot of the manual. . They also told me to not use any plumbers tape on the union as the phyn had straight threads, not tapered and seal through compression. First time I've seen that, but makes this easier I guess PageMaster fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Nov 17, 2023 |
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Nov 17, 2023 15:17
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i started taking apart the pipes under my bathroom sink to clean out the p-trap and noticed the part that goes into the wall looked corroded. "i wonder how this comes out, i'm going to see if it turns." i am reasonably handy, is this something i can replace myself? how do i get the metal pipe out? there do not appear to be any threads on the far end for that loose ring to connect to. update: i got it out, and cleaned all the old plumber's putty out of the fastener and there are threads that fit. i think i know what i need now thanks for reading butt dickus fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Nov 22, 2023 |
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Nov 22, 2023 00:03
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I have been there (under the kitchen sink). If you're not going back with PVC and want to stick with brass, you'll need to go to a plumbing supply house for heavier-gauge pipe than you'll ever get at LowesDepot. It used to be that you could buy a better grade of brass line & trap sets. Now they're all tissue-paper garbage.
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Nov 22, 2023 03:31
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yeah it was crumbling and extremely thin. i replaced it all with pvc and it works great thanks
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Nov 22, 2023 04:07
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My MIL has a double basin sink and she uses one side as a dish washing side and one side as a rinse side. When the right hand side, as shown, has a stopper and is filled with water the left hand side will slowly fill up with water if you leave the water running. It will slowly drain out, but if you open the right side it will drain quickly. What can be done to the plumbing to make both sink basins drain equally quickly? This is all PVC system. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Nov 23, 2023 |
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Nov 23, 2023 17:16
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Quote Is not edit
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Nov 23, 2023 17:22
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Can you post an actual picture of under the sink? Because basically the air from the wash side is making it easier for the rinse side to flow through the p-trap. Can she simply switch sides? But basically wash, stack in the rinse sink, rinse all at once. Or stopper + fill the rinse sink with clean water stoppered up and just dunk to rinse. That's how it used to be done, not with running water. Comedy option: buy mom a dishwasher.
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Nov 23, 2023 18:09
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H110Hawk posted:Can you post an actual picture of under the sink? Because basically the air from the wash side is making it easier for the rinse side to flow through the p-trap. Can she simply switch sides? But basically wash, stack in the rinse sink, rinse all at once. Or stopper + fill the rinse sink with clean water stoppered up and just dunk to rinse. That's how it used to be done, not with running water. Here you go. Would an air admittance valve help? She's no stranger to doing her own plumbing. 
SlayVus fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Nov 23, 2023 |
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Nov 23, 2023 18:27
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The fact that it goes straight down makes me wonder where it vents normally. I bet an air admittance valve is supposed to be there anyways but don't listen to me (seriously) I'm just trying to setup the pros with all the info they need. (I would have assumed it 90'd into the wall to hook up to a vertical waste stack that vents on the roof to get air in. This is why pictures are so critical, despite your drawing being 100% accurate.)
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Nov 23, 2023 18:51
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I don't know poo poo about poo poo, but I feel like a Wye fitting should be where the Tee fitting is.
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Nov 23, 2023 23:53
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wesleywillis posted:I don't know poo poo about poo poo, but I feel like a Wye fitting should be where the Tee fitting is. That looks like the "hardware store grade wye" with the diverter/splitter in it. That shouldn't be the problem. I agree this looks like a vent issue, or lack thereof. AAVs are the easy path to fixing something that shouldn't have been done that way when the walls were still open.
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Nov 24, 2023 15:41
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Make two separate p-traps into 1.5" main PVC that ends with an air admittance valve higher than the sink. Whatever your issue is, it's going to fix it.
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Nov 24, 2023 22:27
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My kitchen faucet drips. I just moved in, and I'm told that it's dripped for "a while". The faucet has separate temperature handles. I want to shut off each side, separately, to narrow down the problem. I can shut off the hot side, no problem, and there's still a drip. But, I can't shut off the cold side. When I turn the shut-off knob, it doesn't move. At all. It doesn't feel stuck, there's not that wiggle of give in it. It feels like it's just at the end of how far it will go. I don't want to go at it with a wrench because I'm not confident that I'll do anything other than break it. Before I call a plumber, is there anything else I should look at or try? Additionally, I hate the way the faucet was installed. I have a 60/40, with the gooseneck centered over the 40. The 60 is practically useless except as a drying rack. Should I just shut off the water at the main valve and replace the whole faucet?
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Nov 25, 2023 21:43
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Yup. You're in the market for 2 new quarter turns at a minimum. Have a plan for if the pipes in the walls are are cruddy (galvanized) as the valves. Once you commit you're not turning the water back on until you have replaced both those valves.
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Nov 25, 2023 22:07
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H110Hawk posted:Have a plan .... Once you commit ... I'm pretty handy, but I have zero actual knowledge about how to repair anything in the walls. If there's a chance it'll get that far, I'll need a professional. I'd rather look stupid calling someone out to turn a knob, than look stupid calling someone out because I hosed things all the way up.
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Nov 25, 2023 23:19
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Hungry Squirrel posted:I'm pretty handy, but I have zero actual knowledge about how to repair anything in the walls. If there's a chance it'll get that far, I'll need a professional. I'd rather look stupid calling someone out to turn a knob, than look stupid calling someone out because I hosed things all the way up. This is absolutely the correct way to treat "possibly making it so you can't turn the water back on to your entire house" and you will absolutely not look "stupid" for calling a professional BEFORE you've gotten in over your head.
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Nov 25, 2023 23:28
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Hungry Squirrel posted:I'm pretty handy, but I have zero actual knowledge about how to repair anything in the walls. If there's a chance it'll get that far, I'll need a professional. I'd rather look stupid calling someone out to turn a knob, than look stupid calling someone out because I hosed things all the way up. You're being smart here as Motronic said. You tried to turn the valve and it didn't. Next you use bigger and bigger tools until it turns. Once tools are involved, you're past the point of no return. If you know that's not in your wheelhouse, calling a plumber for a scheduled visit is hundreds of dollars cheaper than calling one for a RIGHT NOW visit.
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Nov 26, 2023 01:05
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H110Hawk posted:You're being smart here as Motronic said. You tried to turn the valve and it didn't. Next you use bigger and bigger tools until it turns. Once tools are involved, you're past the point of no return. If you know that's not in your wheelhouse, calling a plumber for a scheduled visit is hundreds of dollars cheaper than calling one for a RIGHT NOW visit. Check all your other shutoffs *before* you call the plumber. If they're all poo poo, you're going to get a way better rate doing them all at once. There's basically an $xxx rate to show up, and an $xx rate on top of that to do more work. At the very least verify your main shutoff is a ball valve that works - if it's anything else, getting the plumber to swap it will be 100% worth it.
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Nov 26, 2023 02:25
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