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Yeah. I've had gradual overuse and "ouch, shouldn't have hit that hold so hard" finger injuries before, but never the audible pop. It was a weird move for it, too: the now-injured hand was on a pretty comfortable undercling and I moved my other hand, with pretty good feet.
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Oct 20, 2023 16:38
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The big news around here is some guy was arrested on his way to commit a mass shooting at the AAC's big smith rock event 
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Oct 24, 2023 04:08
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Well that is very hosed up. Glad they stopped him. Anachronist and I did a couple good routes down in the south Platte on Sunday. It was a beautiful day and we climbed well. Did this one in 6 pitches https://www.mountainproject.com/v/115391614 Then this one in 3 https://www.mountainproject.com/v/114956407 Anachronist put this up for good measure. I was toast though and didn't climb it. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/115776113
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Oct 24, 2023 14:41
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spwrozek posted:
Yeah this was a quality day! Something for most everyone, even and especially the friction slab lovers haha.
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Oct 24, 2023 16:18
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alnilam posted:The big news around here is some guy was arrested on his way to commit a mass shooting at the AAC's big smith rock event wtf......
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Oct 24, 2023 16:26
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alnilam posted:The big news around here is some guy was arrested on his way to commit a mass shooting at the AAC's big smith rock event Yeah, I was there and people were understandably very spooked by it. The event was still really good, but only because he was apprehended the day before so there was no looming threat. If he hadn't been arrested I can't imagine the event would have gone on? There was also a Mazamas event happening at Smith at the same time, and from the rumor mill it sounds like some specific Mazamas members may have been his intended targets. I really don't have enough information to know though.
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Oct 24, 2023 18:19
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Double post because there's some more info available - https://www.opb.org/article/2023/10/24/samson-garner-smith-rock-charges-divorce-decline/
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Oct 25, 2023 15:50
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armorer posted:Double post because there's some more info available - https://www.opb.org/article/2023/10/24/samson-garner-smith-rock-charges-divorce-decline/ “I’m going to climb 20 mountains this season, ski down 8 of them, and think of you exactly once,” he wrote. “Only to thank god that I’ve found a better belayer than you ever were.”
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Oct 25, 2023 16:14
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If that story weren't so grim/hosed up, this would be a really funny line:quote:“I’m going to climb 20 mountains this season, ski down 8 of them, and think of you exactly once,” he wrote. “Only to thank god that I’ve found a better belayer than you ever were.” But yea, just a terrible story all around. For me, and so many others I imagine, a big part of the appeal of climbing outdoors is to be in nature and get away from the stressors of day-to-day life including whackjobs like this guy 
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Oct 25, 2023 16:16
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armorer posted:Double post because there's some more info available - https://www.opb.org/article/2023/10/24/samson-garner-smith-rock-charges-divorce-decline/ That is an incredibly yikes read e: and agreed with above, taken out of the super grim context it's a pretty funny line e2: what I'm still curious about is how they got the tip and caught him. Did he post about it in an MRA subreddit or something? Tell another individual? Tell the cops himself? I guess it will probably come out in court docs eventually. alnilam fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Oct 25, 2023 |
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Oct 25, 2023 16:17
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alnilam posted:That is an incredibly yikes read Climbing is reporting that he made specific comments to at least two other people about “causing harm to climbers in Deschutes County”.
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Oct 25, 2023 19:24
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More yikes material about him https://www.bendbulletin.com/locals...3fb026e7e6.html
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Oct 25, 2023 21:54
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quote:Garner also stated that his father is Joseph T. Garner, who was convicted of killing his own father and eating part of his brain over Christmas in 1995 
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Oct 25, 2023 22:36
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Hereditary mental illness, generational trauma, etc.
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Oct 26, 2023 02:42
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What's the correct way to belay(top-rope) someone on a slightly inverted wall? I've noticed by kiddo will swing very far away from the wall when she lets go on an inverted section and I'm worried she'll get tangled around my belay rope. Also in general, when belaying top rope should you stand closer to the wall or farther away? My kid only weighs 50 lbs but I want to make sure I'm developing good belay habits.
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Nov 8, 2023 19:30
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For top rope, how close you stand to the wall doesn't effect how much slack is in the system (how much she swings), only how far up the wall she is. That's only important for lead because you're giving the climber slack, so standing further back would necessitate giving more slack. I guess if you stand further back she'd have to travel further in order to reach your rope before getting tangled to it?
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Nov 8, 2023 19:54
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grenada posted:What's the correct way to belay(top-rope) someone on a slightly inverted wall? I've noticed by kiddo will swing very far away from the wall when she lets go on an inverted section and I'm worried she'll get tangled around my belay rope. On an underhang where there's swing potential, I usually eyeball the expected swing path and step slightly to the side of it, as well as standing back a bit depending on how things are laid out. Also if it helps assuage your worries at all, toprope falls are relatively gentle, relative to lead I mean... if you bang into the belay strand on a swing it's usually not too harsh and the climber can usually kinda block/catch it with their hand (in lead climbing though, the climber must be aware of foot placement vs rope, as a tangle can be dangerous in a fall, and also banging into the belay strand after a big lead fall can hurt - I've gotten bruises from it) My kid (40 lb) likes to swing out on purpose and I've successfully stayed out of her way many times by being slightly to the side.
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Nov 8, 2023 21:01
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Life happened and keeps happening so I haven't climbed in like 2 months and now it's getting cold/wet and it's gonna be harder to get outside.
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Nov 8, 2023 21:13
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grenada posted:What's the correct way to belay(top-rope) someone on a slightly inverted wall? I've noticed by kiddo will swing very far away from the wall when she lets go on an inverted section and I'm worried she'll get tangled around my belay rope. grenada posted:Also in general, when belaying top rope should you stand closer to the wall or farther away? My kid only weighs 50 lbs but I want to make sure I'm developing good belay habits.
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Nov 8, 2023 21:30
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If the wall is very steep it might be a good idea to have an intermediate draw to limit the swing. An early fall on a steep top-rope route might result in hitting the ground. Padding the start might be a good idea in that case. Stand to the side of the anchor and the climber will swing past you. Make sure you keep the path clear of people and items.
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Nov 10, 2023 14:04
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I forget if I've asked ITT before, has anyone here tried strapping crash pads to their roof? Any advice? My vehicle does have some roof rails but I've never used them before. Can I use the straps on the pads themselves in 1 direction and then just use some ratchet straps in the other direction running through the vehicle itself? Kinda like this photo-realistic drawing I just made; the bars run perpendicular to the Sab669 fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Nov 10, 2023 |
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Nov 10, 2023 16:36
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If you have roof rails just use ratchet straps. I wouldn't use the pads own straps.as one of the main way of securing the pad I'd also try to point the mat hinge toward the front of the car KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Nov 10, 2023 |
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Nov 10, 2023 16:44
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Good idea about the hinge on the mats, but I think the rails are probably too far apart for me to orient them that way
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Nov 10, 2023 16:51
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Ratchet straps, center the pads, if needed acquire painters tape and or a roll of packing plastic to close any sketchy gaps in the leading edge that might open up.
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Nov 11, 2023 03:17
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Hahaha I got an e-cargo bike to be more conscious of my footprint and get more exercise. Had it tip accidentally loading it up after Costco, and the pedal somehow magically slammed the top of my foot. At least the break is clean. I was just getting back to 11s on lead. 
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Nov 11, 2023 16:16
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Just campus everything 
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Nov 11, 2023 16:37
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gamera009 posted:Hahaha I got an e-cargo bike to be more conscious of my footprint and get more exercise. Hang in there and hangboard, fellow foot-injury buddy
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Nov 11, 2023 16:50
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Ouch that sucks man. I wish you to have the motivation to stick to a crazy hangboard routine that makes you so strong you want to break your other foot
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Nov 11, 2023 18:18
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You can prolly climb with the foot in a cast. Try an upsized rental shoe over  just try to avoid falling on it again
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Nov 12, 2023 14:06
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Friends ran into Tommy Caldwell at the crag last year, and he was climbing 12s in an air cast. You got this
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Nov 12, 2023 17:15
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Counterpoint - be careful and listen to your doctor as well as your gut. Last thing you want is another injury or overuse of your fingers or tweaking your other foot in a bad fall.
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Nov 12, 2023 22:07
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chami posted:Counterpoint - be careful and listen to your doctor as well as your gut. Last thing you want is another injury or overuse of your fingers or tweaking your other foot in a bad fall. This. Don't hurt the rest of your body and/or delay your recovery to climb something that's likely not that great (since you can do it one footed or via campusing)
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Nov 12, 2023 22:48
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Nov 13, 2023 03:34
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ante posted:Friends ran into Tommy Caldwell at the crag last year, and he was climbing 12s in an air cast. You got this yes, follow the example of tommy "ruptured his achilles a second time by going too hard too soon" caldwell
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Nov 13, 2023 04:00
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ploots posted:yes, follow the example of tommy "ruptured his achilles a second time by going too hard too soon" caldwell poo poo, I didn’t know that happened to him. That is exactly what I am afraid of.
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Nov 13, 2023 04:07
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Counterpoint: you're not going as hard as Tommy. Don't fool yourself. You'll be fine. Hangboard! Do it!
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Nov 13, 2023 21:59
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I had a good friend who had real bad frostbite on one toe and just put that foot into an ugg boot and climbed one-footed at the gym for a few months. Doing this turned him into an absolute monster when he could use both feet again
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Nov 13, 2023 22:15
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Speleothing posted:I had a good friend who had real bad frostbite on one toe and just put that foot into an ugg boot and climbed one-footed at the gym for a few months. Doing this turned him into an absolute monster when he could use both feet again Sounds like he should climb at a warmer gym
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Nov 13, 2023 22:21
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Counterpoint: you're not going as hard as Tommy. Don't fool yourself. You'll be fine. Hangboard! Do it! Counter-counterpoint: What's too hard for Tommy and what's too hard for Joe Schmoe are drastically different things
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Nov 13, 2023 22:27
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alnilam posted:Sounds like he should climb at a warmer gym 
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Nov 13, 2023 22:28
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