Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Forgot the key in the ignition in my Yaris for two weeks straight, battery is dead now. I got a new battery a month ago, can leaving the key in the ignition cause this?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Which position was the key in? Unless it was just in the initial lock position, the car probably kept a bunch of electrical poo poo on and it would absolutely drain it in two weeks.

While the batteries aren't supposed to be fully dicharged, I've had success manually charing a completely drained battery and it lasted me years so you could probably get away with it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Pretty sure it was just in the initial lock position. I need to see if I got some parasitic discharging going on I guess. Wondering if it's that bluetooth thingy I got in the cigarette lighter.

I got an old school battery charger that loads depleted batteries that I tend to use more than my smart charger, so I'll do that when I get home today.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



His Divine Shadow posted:

Pretty sure it was just in the initial lock position. I need to see if I got some parasitic discharging going on I guess. Wondering if it's that bluetooth thingy I got in the cigarette lighter.

I got an old school battery charger that loads depleted batteries that I tend to use more than my smart charger, so I'll do that when I get home today.

This. My cousin sold me an '08 Odyssey Touring for $200 because of a parasitic drain issue he wasn't interested in pursuing, possibly because it was his ex-wife's ride & it just sat anyway.

Took about ten minutes before I located a bluetooth emitter plugged into a port in the rear-most cargo area.

I have both types of chargers, since the 'smart' ones won't do dick at zero volts.

When my company set up our cars to write estimates on-site (in our cars), they issued us 200W inverters to power the laptops & printers. Took about a week for me to realize that they pull a ton of current just sitting there, plugged into the vehicle's power supply, even if the AC stuff was unplugged/powered down.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Nov 14, 2023

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




cursedshitbox posted:


Do all of this before the alternator battery starter suicide pact has a chance to happen.

The shop replaced my alternator under warranty for free, so thanks for the advice. And now I have a multimeter to try and figure out too.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
Any how-tos/lessons/suggestions/tips on how to install an ecm controlled engine in a car that is not ecm controlled?
Is it as 'simple' as retaining all the donor motor's wiring, sensors and ecm, paring away all the non-engine management wires from the ecm and adding O2 sensor bungs to the exhaust?
In this case, the donor is an OBD-1 emissions system with a non-electronically controlled transmission.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That's the long and short of it, but the specific "how" will vary wildly on what you're transplanting (and also whether you're in a place like CA that will re-emission your car as if it was the donor).

It's certainly easier and simpler with older systems like that because anything old enough to be pre-OBD2 almost certainly has no dependencies on other computers or systems in the car.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
I've got a bunch of small holes in the paint on my hood (like 2mm across). About 40 of them. Would it look terrible if I touched them up with this? https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Primer-Convenient-Scratches-UNIVERSAL/dp/B0B176QR34/

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

NotNut posted:

I've got a bunch of small holes in the paint on my hood (like 2mm across). About 40 of them. Would it look terrible if I touched them up with this? https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Primer-Convenient-Scratches-UNIVERSAL/dp/B0B176QR34/
I'm not familiar with that specific product but if it's anythig like other touch-up paint, I think you can get pretty decent results with a bit of effort. Nothing will make it look new without a complete respray but for an older daily it loks ok and much better than a bunch of holes obviously. Plus if you want to respray you can always still do that later.


mobby_6kl posted:

The hood looks like the surface of the loving moon from all the stone chips, which doesn't really matter... so I decided to do some experiments with a :10bux: paint kit while talking with my grandfather on the phone, so a solid hour or so to get some work done.

That's jut the biggest cluster but not all of them, I sanded until the chips were clean from rust and smooth


Applied the paint in at least half a dozen layers, paint always dried out and still left a big hole. Eventually when I thought there was enough (and it turned out to be quite difficult to judge without touching it), sanded it with 600, then 1000 and 2000 grit. A bit of hand-polishing with compound.

It's better than a hole but still looks like rear end :v:


There's a smaller finished one just above and to the left, looks a bit better.

Obviously it needs a more polishing to get rid of the sanding scratches, I'll get the drill next time. But I think that while the new pain is properly shiny, I probably went through some of the original clearcoat and that's the part just around the new paint that's not as shiny. It also doesn't feel completely flat.

I do have clearcoate separately as part of the repair kit and in a spray can but I think I'll try adding a few new layers and see if that would help even it all out.

Here's another pretty big one. No idea what's the deal with the right side.


I think it's the same one, just rotated?


This type of repair is never going to be perfect of course, and it doesn't really matter on this shitbox, but I'm curious if you could do better. Feels like there are very specific issues like the bubbles (?) and low spots that could be improved if I knew WTF I was doing. So if you have any suggestions, I'd be happy to test them out since there's no risk to loving it up more.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


How do I go about getting a replacement keyfob / integrated key+fob?

I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 that I bought from Carmax, it came with an all metal key and one battery powered ignition key that has lock/unlock and panic buttons on it. Recently the "smart" key stopped working and I replaced the battery which was extremely simple, something I have done plenty of times for it and other smart keys. However, the key seems to just be dead, I've tried 2 different new batteries, am 100% confident they are properly installed etc. Something in the smart key seems to be broken.

I can live without it but it is nice having the remote lock / unlock feature so I'd like to get another one. I have never had to replace one of these before or even thought about out. How does that work?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

That Works posted:

How do I go about getting a replacement keyfob / integrated key+fob?

I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 that I bought from Carmax, it came with an all metal key and one battery powered ignition key that has lock/unlock and panic buttons on it. Recently the "smart" key stopped working and I replaced the battery which was extremely simple, something I have done plenty of times for it and other smart keys. However, the key seems to just be dead, I've tried 2 different new batteries, am 100% confident they are properly installed etc. Something in the smart key seems to be broken.

I can live without it but it is nice having the remote lock / unlock feature so I'd like to get another one. I have never had to replace one of these before or even thought about out. How does that work?

Get a new blank one from Amazon, take it to a locksmith to get programmed.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



That Works posted:

How do I go about getting a replacement keyfob / integrated key+fob?
...

According to this site, you can buy a fob and program it yourself: https://northcoastkeyless.com/2018-toyota-rav4-keyless-entry-remote-programming-instructions/

salt the fries!
Dec 24, 2005
Hey have I mentioned yet that my license plate is "TOA5TER"? See, it's kyoot because it's a boxy car! ^_^
About a month ago I sold my car to a dealership, removed every aftermarket part before the sale.... or so I thought. I forgot I had a catch can installed.

I understand the "as-is, where is" part of selling a car, but should I contact them to tell them? The paperwork definitely said "no aftermarket modifications" and I feel bad for the future owner if they don't notice it. It's a nice, almost new vehicle with around 10k miles... I probably wouldn't worry if it was older/cheaper. What should I do?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

joat mon posted:

Any how-tos/lessons/suggestions/tips on how to install an ecm controlled engine in a car that is not ecm controlled?
Is it as 'simple' as retaining all the donor motor's wiring, sensors and ecm, paring away all the non-engine management wires from the ecm and adding O2 sensor bungs to the exhaust?
In this case, the donor is an OBD-1 emissions system with a non-electronically controlled transmission.

Kind of. Just to get the engine running? Yes.

If you want the instrument cluster working correctly it can be a pain in the rear end. Unless you bring the cluster that came with the engine.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





salt the fries! posted:

About a month ago I sold my car to a dealership, removed every aftermarket part before the sale.... or so I thought. I forgot I had a catch can installed.

I understand the "as-is, where is" part of selling a car, but should I contact them to tell them? The paperwork definitely said "no aftermarket modifications" and I feel bad for the future owner if they don't notice it. It's a nice, almost new vehicle with around 10k miles... I probably wouldn't worry if it was older/cheaper. What should I do?

Nothing whatsoever and stop worrying about it. Odds are high that the dealer you sold the car to doesn't have it anymore anyway.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy



Hah wild.

Thanks to you both, just not something I've ever had to think about before.


For the self-program method, can I insert a key blank into the ignition at all before cutting it?

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




Programing the security chip for the key to be able to crank the car is a completely different bit of programming than for a remote door unlock fob.

So for those instructions, it's like you bought a fob, not a blank with remote functions. And you would use the working key when it tells you to insert a key. Different steps for different purposes.

If you want to program your own keys, you need Techstream or an equivalent to register the security chip. It can be done before getting the key cut, but not much reason to.

I did buy a dongle that came with bootleg Techstream so that I could do this in a 2007 RAV4 and 2005 Avalon. Worked great. Bought keys. Talked a guy at Lowes to cut them in their machine. Techstream for security chip. Instructions like the ones linked for remote unlock.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Sub Rosa posted:

Programing the security chip for the key to be able to crank the car is a completely different bit of programming than for a remote door unlock fob.

So for those instructions, it's like you bought a fob, not a blank with remote functions. And you would use the working key when it tells you to insert a key. Different steps for different purposes.



Gotcha thanks.

Organ Fiend
May 21, 2007

custom title

Leperflesh posted:

You definitely do want the same brand and model tires on the car, don't have like 3 michelins and one hankook on there. You need the two tires on each side of the vehicle to perform the same in wet conditions, emergency braking and cornering, etc. If you absolutely have to mix and match it should at least be matching fronts and matching rears.

wesleywillis posted:

Me and the other goon did ignore this didn't we?

But yes what this goon said. Same make/model of tire is best.

Thanks, will either pair on the front/back or get the same on all four corners.

It looks like the dealership I took it to when it took a nail in one tire gave it a Falken Ziex (245/45R20 103W XL) which is selling for $202 each on Priority Tire (Tire Rack doesn't even carry the Ziex). I was able to find another tire, Atlas Tire Force HP (245/45R20 99V SL, which matches stock) for $105 each. Both are all-seasons, 'high-performance', and rated for 45-50k miles. Is Atlas a poo poo brand or is Falken a bigger name brand? Or is the $100 price difference what you get going from 103W XL to 99V SL?

EDIT: It looks like I'm spending $400 either way, either with one Falken and two Atlases or with 4 Atlases. Difference is I'll have the Falken sitting around for the full spare if I ever decide to do that. Unless someone chimes in with "Atlas sucks", I'll probably go with the 4 Atlases.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I've never heard of Atlas. Falken is a big brand. The Atlas might be fine, I prefer Michelin/continental tires generally.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Nov 15, 2023

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Help please, while we’re on the road? We’re having a shitshow of a month, traveling up and down the state, and now the car is making a noise and we need to get home four hours away.

It’s a 2017 Hyundai Tucson naturally aspirated. It’s had an oil consumption issue which is being monitored by Hyundai for replacement. We started out with it all topped off the night before.

We’ve had to make multiple 600 mile round trips. On the way home last time, it seemed like it was downshifting more than usual and losing a little power on the hills, but it doesn’t have that much power in the first place, so we thought maybe we were just driving into the wind.

On the way down this time, it was still doing it though, and we thought maybe it was just dirty fuel injectors or something, and we really had to get there, so don’t shoot me, but we put some fuel injector cleaner in when we stopped for gas.

Maybe 20 miles down the road, it started to make a squeal, and hasn’t stopped since. It sounds almost but not quite like a belt squeal, but it’s been a while since I had the problem, and engines are different now, so maybe. Husband couldn’t tell where it was coming from, he thought farther toward the firewall, but hard to tell.

It only does it when the engine is under load, and louder the more load there is. Take your foot off the gas and it stops entirely, regardless of engine rpms.

We’re not really car people except what you learn from experience, so we can’t figure it out. My brother said without seeing it that maybe an accessory is dragging on the belt? I don’t know what only runs when the engine is under load.

We don’t HAVE to be home tonight, but we really kind of need to. We’re going to pass by the only Hyundai dealership on the way, but they’ll be closed. Does anyone have any thoughts?

PS: Our home dealership suggested that since it’s on the road to an engine replacement anyway, we should just drive it and see what happens, which would be hilarious if we weren’t 300 miles from home.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

guaranteed posted:

Help please, while we’re on the road? We’re having a shitshow of a month, traveling up and down the state, and now the car is making a noise and we need to get home four hours away.

It’s a 2017 Hyundai Tucson naturally aspirated. It’s had an oil consumption issue which is being monitored by Hyundai for replacement. We started out with it all topped off the night before.

We’ve had to make multiple 600 mile round trips. On the way home last time, it seemed like it was downshifting more than usual and losing a little power on the hills, but it doesn’t have that much power in the first place, so we thought maybe we were just driving into the wind.

On the way down this time, it was still doing it though, and we thought maybe it was just dirty fuel injectors or something, and we really had to get there, so don’t shoot me, but we put some fuel injector cleaner in when we stopped for gas.

Maybe 20 miles down the road, it started to make a squeal, and hasn’t stopped since. It sounds almost but not quite like a belt squeal, but it’s been a while since I had the problem, and engines are different now, so maybe. Husband couldn’t tell where it was coming from, he thought farther toward the firewall, but hard to tell.

It only does it when the engine is under load, and louder the more load there is. Take your foot off the gas and it stops entirely, regardless of engine rpms.

We’re not really car people except what you learn from experience, so we can’t figure it out. My brother said without seeing it that maybe an accessory is dragging on the belt? I don’t know what only runs when the engine is under load.

We don’t HAVE to be home tonight, but we really kind of need to. We’re going to pass by the only Hyundai dealership on the way, but they’ll be closed. Does anyone have any thoughts?

PS: Our home dealership suggested that since it’s on the road to an engine replacement anyway, we should just drive it and see what happens, which would be hilarious if we weren’t 300 miles from home.

I don't think it's a good idea to keep driving it. Find your way to a Hyundai dealership. Sucks to get delayed, but it's anyone's guess what the alternative is.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Well, we’re about a half hour out from the only dealership. I just wish I knew, I guess

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Yeah, just called the dealership and they’re booked out till January and have five cars that have been towed in they haven’t had a chance to look at, so that’s that.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Pop the hood, and take a look with the engine running.

One of you rev the engine up and see if the squealing starts. Its *probably* the belt squealing. I don't know about your particular vehicle, but I haven't seen any cars built in the last 15 ish years that didn't have a serpentine belt. Look at the belt, (keep your hands away while the engine is running obviously) and see if there is any noticeable damage to it. Does it look shredded? Glazed? Are there cuts? Is it about to fall off? Serpentine belts have spring loaded tensioners so theres not really any way to adjust them like back in the old days. That being said, if the tensioner is bad, it could cause the belt to slip, and then squeal. Or possibly something like an Alternator, AC compressor, PS pump etc could be seizing.

If you can narrow it down a bit you're less likely to look like desperate marks if you go in to a "foreign" Hyundai dealer that might try to sell you a bunch of poo poo you don't need.
You mention that the Hyundai dealer says you might be getting an engine replacement anyway. Is it covered under warranty? Did they say (In writing/email) to keep driving it? If you keep driving it, your belt snaps because Accessory X seized up and then the engine over heats (because the water pump is run by the serpentine belt) and then the heads or block crack, that could be just the excuse YOUR dealer needs to say "nope, engine failure due to cracked block/heads and not related to oil consumption, warranty claim DENIED".

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023
I just had my squealing belt replaced on an old vehicle, and a few hours later the tensioner broke, the belt fell off, and I had to limp to a mechanic a half mile away before my alternator gave out and I lost all power. Didn't make it to the lot and had to try to push for a bit.

Having had a car break down in the boonies before (Ozarks) I would leave it at the biggest city you can and rent a car from there to get home, or take a bus/train if possible. Then come back another time to pick it up. It absolutely sucks, but having the serpentine or alternator go out while driving is even worse (which I had happen almost 2 decades ago in another incident with a friend's car).

All this assumes you don't have friends/family in the area/route home. If you do, that gives you a lot more flexibility and might be able to borrow one of their vehicles while they help you get yours fixed up.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Cheapest option might just be to stop by the closest non dealer mechanic and pay their diagnostic fee to figure out the noise.

Alternatives being a tow, or rental to leave and come back another day.

Maybe get AAA as well in case it leaves you stranded somewhere?

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Thank you for this. we checked the belt yesterday and it seemed ok, we just looked again and it seems about the same? No fraying; maaaaaybe it’s browner than it was? A little shiny on the flat side, my husband says. One of the pulleys you can see because the belt goes underneath is kind of rusty looking, but appears to spin freely when the engine is running. I took some pictures but don’t know if I can attach them or if it matters.

Three hours from home now. This sucks hard. My mother in law got sick and now died, no one will wants to do funeral planning or discuss the legal stuff over the phone even though we’re five hours away, no one’s available on the same day, my husband’s been off work for two weeks and everything’s imploding, our well water tested undrinkablei and needs to be retested and maybe shocked before the ground freezes any further, the cat needs her rabies shot… It’s just a lot right now.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
A bunch of unfortunate circumstances for sure.
Hopefully things get resolved as painlessly as possible. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge while you're driving just in case.
Remember, *if it is* the belt and its still squealing, then at least you know its there. If it stops squealing it might have just stopped squealing for whatever reason, or it could have broken. If it breaks, the alternator light will come on and the engine temp will go up because the water pump will have stopped turning. If that happens, pull over as fast as you safely can. If the power steering isn't electric, that'll go out too, but as long as you're moving, the steering effort won't be *that* bad.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Thank you, Wesley. If you know him, ir35 says thank you too.

We’re in northern Michigan and heading north. Not much out here in the way of transit, services, or people, but not a dangerous place to have to stop and wait for a tow, either. On the other hand, it’s opening day and the forests are heaving with scared animals, so maybe a deer will take care of the problem for us. It’s all good.

We’re finding out in traverse city why there’s such a stereotype about BMWs. One driving down the bike lane, one without headlights in the dark, one weaving from lane to lane at random.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

The combination of weird shifting + squeal that only happens when the engine is loaded makes it sound like the transmission is making that sound. Can you check your automatic transmission fluid level? Any warning lights?

I *think* you still have a 10 year, 100k mile powertrain warranty, right? I would be inclined to tow the car to a dealer for a diag and rent a car asap. You'll have to eat the cost of the rental though, and that sucks. In the long term, it might be worthwhile to buy an emergency backup beater for a few thousand while your main car is out of commission, and then flip it on craigslist or FB marketplace when your main car is fixed.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
I don’t know if the transmission was shifting because it had a problem. It seemed like it was having trouble getting up hills on cruise control and shifting to make up for it.

No warning lights; we can’t seem to find a way to check the fluid. The owner’s manual suggests we check but doesn’t say how, and we don’t see it. it’s apparently a sealed unit.

We do still have the full warranty. If it does turn out to be the transmission, on top of the oil consumption, it’s probably time to see if we can have a chat with sales.

The dealership in Traverse City is months behind on service and two and a half hours from home. It’s after five and everything is closed. The next dealership is ours.

I know I’m goon-in-a-welling, but we’re just going to push on. Just checked the oil and it’s getting a little low, but we have a bottle if we need it. The belt seems unchanged.

We do have towing through USAA and a second car, this is just the better fuel economy, more comfortable car.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

guaranteed posted:

I don’t know if the transmission was shifting because it had a problem. It seemed like it was having trouble getting up hills on cruise control and shifting to make up for it.

No warning lights; we can’t seem to find a way to check the fluid. The owner’s manual suggests we check but doesn’t say how, and we don’t see it. it’s apparently a sealed unit.

We do still have the full warranty. If it does turn out to be the transmission, on top of the oil consumption, it’s probably time to see if we can have a chat with sales.

The dealership in Traverse City is months behind on service and two and a half hours from home. It’s after five and everything is closed. The next dealership is ours.

I know I’m goon-in-a-welling, but we’re just going to push on. Just checked the oil and it’s getting a little low, but we have a bottle if we need it. The belt seems unchanged.

We do have towing through USAA and a second car, this is just the better fuel economy, more comfortable car.

tbh, that's what I would do. Drive it until it breaks, and only then worry about towing it somewhere. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. Life is full of little adventures like this.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.

Deteriorata posted:

tbh, that's what I would do. Drive it until it breaks, and only then worry about towing it somewhere. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. Life is full of little adventures like this.

On it, lol. I thought we were too old for this poo poo, but here we are. 48 miles to the next town, and no wiser. I will certainly admit our shame for all your amusement if we don’t make it, and report back when we solve the mystery.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Lmao, have fun with those hills on M22.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Lmao, have fun with those hills on M22.

We’re on 31 right now. 37 was pretty bad for hills, but little traffic and lots of passing lanes. Next up: 55 miles an hour on I75. Traffic is light, though; we’re getting more hopeful as we get closer to the bridge without any noticeable change in the car.

As long as it doesn’t die while there’s no cell signal, we’ll manage. Feels like it’s midnight. I can’t believe it’s only 730.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



There is no darker night nor longer road than the one you're on in a maybe-failing car.

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.
Ssshhhh, we’re almost home. We’re over the bridge, within reasonable towing distance, and eating chocolate donuts.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Hell yeah!! You're almost there.

How much longer?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023

PainterofCrap posted:

There is no darker night nor longer road than the one you're on in a maybe-failing car.

My headlights started failing in Nevada on US 50 (only when flipping from low to high beams) and I don't think I've had a darker moment in my life than scrambling to get them back on while trying to not go off that road

guaranteed posted:

Ssshhhh, we’re almost home. We’re over the bridge, within reasonable towing distance, and eating chocolate donuts.

You got this

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply