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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I feel like watery paint is more likely to clog detail because it and the pigment would flow into the recess instead of creating a more even layer.

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Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Double posting because I can’t attach a file to an edit. Here’s how much effort I'm willing to spend on something that exists only to make base colours easier to make stick. One coat on the left, two on the right.

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Siivola posted:

If three coats of watery white are going to clog detail then lmao lemme just post anything I do straight in the unspiration thread.

It's not like "three coats clogs"... I do a hell of a lot more than that in places, but you can see in that photo some places where it's doing stuff that _looks_ like detail clogging. It certainly could be the sculpt though.

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Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
The issue is I paint with contrast and need a really good white coat to layer colors like green and yellow on. I could prime first and then add a white base coat on top, but I think that would clog up even more detail? I think the whole point of priming with a thinned base paint is you don't have to do anything else.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

That's just the camera freaking out because everything's white and the edges aren't big enough to cast real shadows.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
beep beep



My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
i absolutely love when you post. you knock it out of the park on minis i couldnt even imagine making look sensible.

i hate you so much

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Every single white primer I've tried as a brush on just pools in the recesses and ruins my model 😞

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Cardboard Fox posted:

Maybe I'm a bit paranoid now, but I think using a base paint thinned down with water is fine as a primer. I haven't read anything that said you absolutely can't do this.

Here's how it looks brushed on after 3ish coats:


I am curious how different a spray/airbrush base coat would look.

I don't think there's any real benefit of having a "primer" layer on plastic miniatures. Regular acrylic paint sticks on fine and 99% of miniature spray paints aren't true primers anyway. It's more about having a nice even basecoat to layer on your other paints - particularly the more transparent colours like yellow and red.

I would absolutely look for an actual primer for painting metal miniatures though! Paint chips off like mad without priming OR heavy sealing.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Every single white primer I've tried as a brush on just pools in the recesses and ruins my model 😞

If you must prime with white use an off white (grey or cream) or try gesso primer. I've heard that works well with just one thick coat.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

My Spirit Otter posted:

i absolutely love when you post. you knock it out of the park on minis i couldnt even imagine making look sensible.

i hate you so much

gently caress you

and thanks!

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Cardboard Fox posted:

I think once I buy an airbrush I'm officially at the point of no return for this hobby. Next step would be to convert a second bedroom into a paintroom.

there's a deeper hole:

many of the practical obstacles to airbrushing safely are shared with 3D resin printing

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Every single white primer I've tried as a brush on just pools in the recesses and ruins my model 😞

you're probably trying to use white primer as white paint, and you don't want to do that. it's not going to work like dark primer, which can be both a prime and basecoat in one application. brush primer does not need to be a clean layer of paint. you're putting on one thin coat to cover undesirable surface texture and help the actual paint adhere. if it shows light brushmarks or the color of the material, that's fine.

if you want a white basecoat, apply white/grey primer then paint actual white paint over that.

Z the IVth posted:

I don't think there's any real benefit of having a "primer" layer on plastic miniatures.

a polyurethane primer does wonders for smoothing off small toolmarks, as well as ensuring even adherence and appearance for parts made of different materials. it's just a good habit.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 17, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Most of that doesn't sound all that necessary or a problem for plastic citadel miniatures.

Edit: I did see mention of plastic needing to be cleaned and prepared before painting, particularly if you've got your greasy prints all over it during assembly. But that doesn't seem like all that much trouble to deal with.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Nov 17, 2023

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Cease to Hope posted:

there's a deeper hole:

many of the practical obstacles to airbrushing safely are shared with 3D resin printing

Strictly speaking not if you're spraying water based acrylic since that's a particulate issue. It's less ideal but you can get away with just a respirator and ad hoc ventilation.

An open resin vat or heated plastic filament outgassing god knows what while the printer runs for hours and hours will need sustained ventilation and not just throwing the windows open while you do a quick 10 minute spray sesh. A lot more effort involved to do this safely

Cease to Hope posted:

a polyurethane primer does wonders for smoothing off small toolmarks, as well as ensuring even adherence and appearance for parts made of different materials. it's just a good habit.

I agree with the adherence issues with multi media kits- hence why I specify pure plastic models. You won't get that many adherence issues - suboptimal but not terrible.

I'm a bit more dubious about toolmarks though. I've tried everything from Mr Surfacer to Halfords High Build Automotive primer and haven't noticed that big a difference. Certainly its not enough to make layer lines disappear. Maybe I just need to get into the habit of sanding down between each primer coat.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Cardboard Fox posted:

Maybe I'm a bit paranoid now, but I think using a base paint thinned down with water is fine as a primer. I haven't read anything that said you absolutely can't do this.

Here's how it looks brushed on after 3ish coats:


I am curious how different a spray/airbrush base coat would look.

I never prime my plastics, never have and never will, I haven't had any issues at all. I am varnishing them for sure though.

Metal and resin really should be primed. Paint chips off raised edges so easily.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I will definitely top coat my minis with a varnish when I'm done. I've already seen some paint chipping on the edges, even on primed ones, and to fix up the slight sheen the citadel contrast paint leaves on them.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Y'all need to stop fuckin' around and just get a bottle of Valejo Surface Primer in light grey. It brushes on fine in a single coat, doesn't obscure details, it's light enough to paint over with bright colors.

Then if you want something really white-white, get some white artists ink.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I was on the white ink train for a while, and it's still definitely got its uses. However, Pro-acryl bold titanium white has seemingly-impossible coverage for a white paint, and it's got the thickness of a traditional acrylic paint. Honestly, I think both are pretty handy to have around, depending on what you're working on.

Definitely don't bother to prime white, though. Grey or black all the way.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012


Go to hell, those are so cool

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLP6oT3uqV8

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

Y'all. Gesso mixed with acrylic medium.

Goes on sloppy and dries like shrink wrap.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
a general beginner tip that this convo just reminded me of:

glue attached to a painted surface is basically worthless. obviously plastic cement should be applied directly to plastic (although it will dissolve a bit of thin paint), but gluing a piece to a painted surface will eventually just tear off the paint. either scrape off the paint, or drill a pin to hold the joint together.

Z the IVth posted:

Strictly speaking not if you're spraying water based acrylic since that's a particulate issue. It's less ideal but you can get away with just a respirator and ad hoc ventilation.

An open resin vat or heated plastic filament outgassing god knows what while the printer runs for hours and hours will need sustained ventilation and not just throwing the windows open while you do a quick 10 minute spray sesh. A lot more effort involved to do this safely

I agree with the adherence issues with multi media kits- hence why I specify pure plastic models. You won't get that many adherence issues - suboptimal but not terrible.

I'm a bit more dubious about toolmarks though. I've tried everything from Mr Surfacer to Halfords High Build Automotive primer and haven't noticed that big a difference. Certainly its not enough to make layer lines disappear. Maybe I just need to get into the habit of sanding down between each primer coat.

setting up a space with a backstop, proper ventilation, cleanup for overspray, and controlled temp year-round is already halfway there. you've got a space that you can safely pollute, or else room enough for a hood/tent. ad hoc ventilation means you can set up real ventilation. you're comfortable with whatever solvent you're using for overspray cleanup.

this isn't totally serious but lol if this talks a goon into making the jump.

paint adherence is still a thing for whatever you're sticking on the base, any epoxy putty you're using to kitbash, or anything you superglue. plus, when you're painting in subassemblies, you can use the primer to clearly mark off contact surfaces you intend to cement or glue later.

i don't trust primer to cover actual seams, sculpting putty edges, or mold lines. i use vallejo polyurethane primer and have had it nicely even out soft edges where I scraped off a mold line or unwanted detail, light plastic glue damage up to faint fingerprints, superglue "burn"/"halo", minor tool nicks, diminish gate scars, and so on.

it's just a good habit to develop imo.

Bucnasti posted:

Y'all need to stop fuckin' around and just get a bottle of Valejo Surface Primer in light grey. It brushes on fine in a single coat, doesn't obscure details, it's light enough to paint over with bright colors.

Then if you want something really white-white, get some white artists ink.

good rear end advice

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Ravus Ursus posted:

Y'all. Gesso mixed with acrylic medium.

Goes on sloppy and dries like shrink wrap.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

A box fan, cardboard box and air filter is like $25 in parts, all you need is a little duct tape and an open window and you have a spray booth

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
Great advice all around. I was curious about the primer since I knew I had a Valejo white primer somewhere in the drawer.


Left is regular Wraithbone base thinned with water x3, right is Valejo white surface primer x1.


Left is unchanged from above, right is 2 thin coats of Wraithbone base.


This is both with Ironjawz Yellow contrast paint applied from the tub.


The left looks a bit better to me. You can see the grey plastic showing through the yellow contrast paint on the left side of the shield. I could have added a few more coats with base, but I think at that point the primer is kind of pointless?

Also, I'm not sure if maybe my primer is bad? It's pretty old and came out a little "soapy".

Could it be my application that is the problem? Maybe a spray really would give a better finish.

Cardboard Fox fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Nov 18, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

The same EXACT thing happens with white primer, no matter the brand. Maybe it's fine with an airbrush but I don't have the room for one

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Brent from Goobertown Hobbies did a test to see if primer is beneficial. TLDW: It is, if the mini is going to be handled a lot.

If you're just painting a showpiece, do what you want.


Cardboard Fox posted:

Could it be my application that is the problem? Maybe a spray really would give a better finish.

Primer isn't a basecoat. You'd still want to paint your base wraithbone over your primed plastic.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Silhouette posted:

A box fan, cardboard box and air filter is like $25 in parts, all you need is a little duct tape and an open window and you have a spray booth

you don't need much more space than that to put up a fume tent to hold a small 4K resin printer and a curing station. you've got a window for ducting with an in-line fan, and you already have gloves and a mask (although maybe you're just using a particulate mask, which is no good for solvent vapor).

just think of me as the Black Friday devil on your shoulder.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

PoptartsNinja posted:

Brent from Goobertown Hobbies did a test to see if primer is beneficial. TLDW: It is, if the mini is going to be handled a lot.
Note as always, that video is only applicable to plastics. It's far more important to prime metals than plastics. Mixed/cast resin (as opposed to printed) is in the middle in terms of primer importance, but even more critical to wash than plastic or metal.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Deathwatch Phobos Lt from the Mortifactors :black101:


Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Helicopter boyz primed and ready

hoiyes
May 17, 2007

Cardboard Fox posted:

Great advice all around. I was curious about the primer since I knew I had a Valejo white primer somewhere in the drawer.
The light grey primer is so much better for brush on than the white. If you want to put contrast directly onto it, I'd recommend a heavy drybrush with a bright white first. But a single coat of primer is fine for most paints, especially if you're doing multiple coats of the base layer anyway.

I also use the brush on black before a zenithal spray because a brush just gets the black into all the nooks and crannies where spray won't easily. But also I will never paint in subassemblies.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

PoptartsNinja posted:

Primer isn't a basecoat. You'd still want to paint your base wraithbone over your primed plastic.

That makes sense. I think my main issue is using too much primer or base that can gunk up the model. I need to get better at applying without puting so much into the finer details.

Looking at some of the youtube videos for priming, the spray paint finish looks like exactly what I want. I may have to buy a mask and go outside. No one told me this was an outdoor hobby...

hoiyes posted:

The light grey primer is so much better for brush on than the white. If you want to put contrast directly onto it, I'd recommend a heavy drybrush with a bright white first. But a single coat of primer is fine for most paints, especially if you're doing multiple coats of the base layer anyway.

I also use the brush on black before a zenithal spray because a brush just gets the black into all the nooks and crannies where spray won't easily. But also I will never paint in subassemblies.

Is this the "slapchop" method I've been hearing about? I don't think I'm ready to try new things like that yet, but some of the results do look really cool.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe

Cardboard Fox posted:

Is this the "slapchop" method I've been hearing about? I don't think I'm ready to try new things like that yet, but some of the results do look really cool.

The orks I did just above are the black->grey->white primer progression people use for slap chop. I really like the effect.

I do the final white streaky on purpose because I think it fits the Ork look.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

AndyElusive posted:

Deathwatch Phobos Lt from the Mortifactors :black101:




I love the Tau parts, how it changes and makes the model unique but keeps the same spirit of this throphy taking weirdo.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

He's a trophy taking weirdo who's also from a Chapter of trophy taking weridos!

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Just noticed that even the skull is Tau, brilliant work!

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



x-post from 40k thread, finished up the Legionaries-into-Raptors squad

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Ravus Ursus posted:

Y'all. Gesso mixed with acrylic medium.

Goes on sloppy and dries like shrink wrap.

This really dates you to circa 2005 TMP - not knockong the technique but that's the only place I've seen gesso used with any regularity.

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

I started painting in 2018 or so?

But it works so god damned well. People sleep on artist tools and resources for bespoke mini specific stuff. A lot of it is just conveniences but I'm pretty sure most brush on primer is just an in house blend of gesso.

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Back in like '08 goons were extolling the virtues of gesso, then it quickly fell out of favor. Probably when goons started moving out of dorms and getting big enough apartments or houses where they could set up an airbrush booth and didn't have to choose between brush-priming and rattlecan outside.

I still have a bottle of gesso from back then that I should probably use on some terrain or something because I think it's actually still good.

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