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Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Almost done with these copter orks!



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Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

MeinPanzer posted:

I'm converting and painting a space marine kill team as a Christmas gift for my brother and I'll be bringing it with me on a long plane trip next month. The team is only 6 models, but I want to make sure that A) the figures are absolutely not damaged en route, B) I don't need to spend much on a solid container, and C) that the container doesn't take up too much space in my suitcase.

Any recommendations? I was thinking of a small glass baking tray with lid stuffed to the gunwales with tissue paper, but I'm open to better options.

Honestly as long as they are varnished I wouldn’t overly worry about just wrapping them in tissue and then stuffing the rest of the box around them with more tissue so they can’t rattle around. I’ve taken stuff in small cardboard boxes that way internationally plenty of times. A box for a single squad could go in your carry on even if you were concerned about it being in your suitcase. If you think the card box might get caved in for some reason use some Tupperware.

I’d actually recommend it over trying to magnetise them to something if you aren’t carrying the trays in a proper mini transport bag, magnets can and will pop off the tray or even the base itself given enough shoogling.

Mr Teatime fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Nov 22, 2023

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

I just now am starting to realise how ridiculous this painting-bug is getting in my head. I bought a new phone, and just thinking about it, I definitely pushed up a model to get the better camera so I could take pictures for this thread. Pictures I promise to post soon, I just want to finish the warriors so I can post them amongst the gaunts.

Silly question, how do you guys manage to position your model's feet nicely so you can base them independently. My first warrior I stuck his feet on a jar to use as a holder while I painted, then I battled to just mark his feet's location on the base so that I could base around them effectively while leaving a footprint onto which I'd later glue him. Perhaps I'm over thinking it, but on my second guy I then glued him down but hosed up and used too much glue, so just had to base around him and it was a loving hack.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
plastic glue them to the base if they're going to be touching it. otherwise pin a foot, ideally all the way out the bottom of the base.

to pin a foot, I drill my hole, put a dab of superglue on a length of floral/craft wire, and insert it. (you can also use guitar string or styrene plastic rod, although the latter isn't very strong <2mm diameter.) if i'm not attaching the model at the same time as placing the pin and there's any mound of glue there, i break it off with a knife sometime before the next step.

to set the pinned model, i drill my hole in the base and dry-fit. at this point i see if the feet set right on the ground, and adjust if needed. (scraping, leveling, adding material to squish, w/e). then i dab a small amount of super glue on each foot, thread the pin, and press it down. once the glue under the feet tacks i bend the pin, cut off excess pin wire, and dab glue on the underside.

once it dries, i clean up around the feet (gaps, glue halo), unless I'm just going to do that later as part of finishing the base.

less glue is more. when you're pinning, the pin is the strength and the glue is just holding things in place.

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

Cease to Hope posted:

plastic glue them to the base if they're going to be touching it. otherwise pin a foot, ideally all the way out the bottom of the base.

to pin a foot, I drill my hole, put a dab of superglue on a length of floral/craft wire, and insert it. (you can also use guitar string or styrene plastic rod, although the latter isn't very strong <2mm diameter.) if i'm not attaching the model at the same time as placing the pin and there's any mound of glue there, i break it off with a knife sometime before the next step.

to set the pinned model, i drill my hole in the base and dry-fit. at this point i see if the feet set right on the ground, and adjust if needed. (scraping, leveling, adding material to squish, w/e). then i dab a small amount of super glue on each foot, thread the pin, and press it down. once the glue under the feet tacks i bend the pin, cut off excess pin wire, and dab glue on the underside.

once it dries, i clean up around the feet (gaps, glue halo), unless I'm just going to do that later as part of finishing the base.

less glue is more. when you're pinning, the pin is the strength and the glue is just holding things in place.

Alright sweet I'll try that with the tyranid prime which is the last guy in my squad, thanks. I've struggled a bit with pinning since I think my drill is poo poo, I've actually just used a lighter to heat the end of a piece of paperclip and push that in, has worked well to pin the gun/arms to work on separately.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Prawned posted:

Alright sweet I'll try that with the tyranid prime which is the last guy in my squad, thanks. I've struggled a bit with pinning since I think my drill is poo poo.

if you're using the bits it came with, probably yeah. those are generally dull as poo poo and garbage.

go to the hardware store and spend a couple bucks on 3/64" (1.2mm, or just 1mm if they have it), 1/6"/1.5mm, and 5/64-3/32"/2mm bits, either high speed steel or titanium coated. the latter is kinda overspending but it'll be like by a couple bucks, and you'll never need to replace them unless you break them, do something stupid, or use them in a drill that isn't a pin vise drill.

i try to keep fire away from my workspace because i can never remember what all is flammable

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
I bought five Rhinos and one predator "hull" for a total if like twenty bucks from the LGS, and I want to try my hand at kit bashing and repainting them into reasonable shape. The first issue I'm having is that this is ancient paint, all but one of these are the 2nd edition rhinos, so it's not normal hobby acrylic, and this is what I got from 24+ hours in rubbing alcohol and a lot of scrubbing:

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
If it's lacquer, which is pretty probable for that vintage of model, iso and abrasion are probably your best bet. Do you have a rotary tool and some polishing wheels?

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style
what companies are making minis on sprue? i really liked making and painting the frameworks minis and getting little bits

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

grassy gnoll posted:

If it's lacquer, which is pretty probable for that vintage of model, iso and abrasion are probably your best bet. Do you have a rotary tool and some polishing wheels?

I don't have a rotary tool, can anyone recommend one for this? I'll put it back in the alcohol.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Ominous Jazz posted:

what companies are making minis on sprue? i really liked making and painting the frameworks minis and getting little bits

Archon Studio's Dungeons & Lasers line has big boxes of odd characters. Been meaning to get one just to have fantasy weirdoes.

Frostgrave and Stargrave miniatures are also cool for generic fantasy and scifi.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style
but do they got BITS

edit; they do

Ominous Jazz fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Nov 22, 2023

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015
Tank Commander (and command tank) completed. I had alot of fun working with this one. Vehicles are very relaxing to paint when you don't go for a difficult camo scheme.





Bonus group shot of my Russes.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Jack B Nimble posted:

I bought five Rhinos and one predator "hull" for a total if like twenty bucks from the LGS, and I want to try my hand at kit bashing and repainting them into reasonable shape. The first issue I'm having is that this is ancient paint, all but one of these are the 2nd edition rhinos, so it's not normal hobby acrylic, and this is what I got from 24+ hours in rubbing alcohol and a lot of scrubbing:



Soak them in simple green or la's totally awesome degreaser for a few days, scrubbing with a toothbrush every so often

ro5s
Dec 27, 2012

A happy little mouse!

I'd forgotten how long it takes to paint Death Guard.




Some plague spewers and an icon bearer, then some heavy plague weapons and a bubotic weapon guy. It'll let me run 3 squads of 7 all loaded out with wargear and going to just generic heavy plague weapons let me do something different to the flail/cleaver from the box.



Plus some blightlords to bulk my unit of 7 to a 10 and Felthius with a headswap to be a 6th deathshroud.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Did a guy for my brother in law to take to a tournament this weekend. Not familiar with the army so likely not appropriate colors but I was given full control to paint however I wanted so that's just how it is!



Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Jack B Nimble posted:

I bought five Rhinos and one predator "hull" for a total if like twenty bucks from the LGS, and I want to try my hand at kit bashing and repainting them into reasonable shape. The first issue I'm having is that this is ancient paint, all but one of these are the 2nd edition rhinos, so it's not normal hobby acrylic, and this is what I got from 24+ hours in rubbing alcohol and a lot of scrubbing:

This is not lacquer. It's enamel. Alcohol removes nitro lacquer (slowly) but not enamel.

The first step is to stop using anything sharper or more abrasive than your fingertips immediately, and examine the models carefully. Is the existing paint obscuring or filling in any detail?

If no, get fine-grit sandpaper, smooth all the places you roughed it up with tools, then just put some primer on top of the remaining enamel paint and paint normally. Honestly, it doesn't matter if there's a layer of paint under everything if it's not obscuring any detail.

If the paint is a problem, you've got two damage-free options and two options that can cause damage.

First off, you can put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with water and see if that lifts any paint. This is the only non-destructive mechanical option, although be aware it can cause superglue to crack. (Do not put flammable solvents in an ultrasonic cleaner unless your home fire insurance is comprehensive.)

Secondly, you can soak it in a degreaser. But do some googling first to make sure that degreaser does not destroy styrene plastic. Simple Green and LA's Totally Awesome are both good, although I don't know for certain if either will be good for this. Degreaser can safely go in an ultrasonic cleaner, too.

Third option is acetone or turpentine or mineral spirits. This is destructive! Dab it on and dab it off. This will cut the paint and very well but it also eventually dissolves plastic, so you want to use it carefully and sparingly, in a room with active ventilation.

Last the mechanical scraping and sanding you're doing, and only for details that are otherwise obscured by the paint. Don't do this just to remove the paint for its own sake.

Once you're done whatever you're doing and it's dry, clean up the tool marks and any borders and any grainy or uneven flat surface with fine-grained sandpaper.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 23, 2023

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Cease to Hope posted:

This is not lacquer. It's enamel. Alcohol removes nitro lacquer (slowly) but not enamel.

The first step is to stop using anything sharper or more abrasive than your fingertips immediately, and examine the models carefully. Is the existing paint obscuring or filling in any detail?

If no, get fine-grit sandpaper, smooth all the places you roughed it up with tools, then just put some primer on top of the remaining enamel paint and paint normally. Honestly, it doesn't matter if there's a layer of paint under everything if it's not obscuring any detail.

If the paint is a problem, you've got two damage-free options and two options that can cause damage.

First off, you can put it in an ultrasonic cleaner *with water* and see if that lifts any paint. This is the only non-destructive mechanical option, although be aware it can cause superglue to crack. (Do not put flammable solvents in an ultrasonic cleaner unless your home fire insurance is comprehensive.)

Secondly, you can soak it in a degreaser. But do some googling first to make sure that degreaser does not destroy styrene plastic. Simple Green and LA's Totally Awesome are both good, although I don't know for certain if either will be good for this. Degreaser can safely go in an ultrasonic cleaner, too.

Third option is acetone or turpentine or mineral spirits. This is destructive! Dab it on and dab it off. This will cut the paint and very well but it also eventually dissolves plastic, so you want to use it carefully and sparingly, in a room with active ventilation.

Last the mechanical scraping and sanding you're doing, and only for details that are otherwise obscured by the paint. Don't do this just to remove the paint for its own sake.

Once you're done whatever you're doing and it's dry, clean up the tool marks and any borders and any grainy or uneven flat surface with fine-grained sandpaper.

Alternatively give up on Space Marines and take up :hmmorks:Orks:orks: instead, these would make killer looted vehicles as is.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

AndyElusive posted:

I'm loving onto you, Neb.



its true i have this penny, but im also over 40 feet tall so i think it evens out

i finished another house for my upcoming sci-fi morocco 6mm adventures




couple observations:
1. these would be so much easier to base with an airbrush :( wish i had space for one
2. i painted the recess on the roof to look like a pool or bath or something. it wasn't until after that i realized that it would probably be kinda odd to have on top of a moroccan building lol. oh well i think it still looks neat, but what do others think?

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Bucnasti posted:

Alternatively give up on Space Marines and take up :hmmorks:Orks:orks: instead, these would make killer looted vehicles as is.

Not doing this should be a crime

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

Nebalebadingdong posted:

1. these would be so much easier to base with an airbrush :( wish i had space for one

Makeup airbrush.

If all you need it for is base coating they'll work great. They're small, have a little electric pump. Issue is you don't really get to mess with PSI controls on most of them.

I grabbed this one a while back for when I get back into things. It has low med and high power settings to psi control, which is more than most.

For a spray booth you can make a pretty solid one with a cardboard box, box fan, and HVAC filter if you don't want to shell out for those portable ones. otherwise those portable ones seems to work pretty well.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Realizing I shouldn't paint late into the night as I start to make a ton of mistakes.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
My spray primer/base arrived today and here are the comparisons:


This is the brush-on method from last week and how I've always done my base coats. Usually it takes about 3 thinned layers to apply.


And here's the same Wraithbone, only this time in spray form.

Even if the spray was the exact same finish as the brush-on I'm still converting to this method. 5 models took around 3mins total.

The only issue is that now I can see the mold lines more than usual! That, and I probably looked like a lunatic on my balcony with the full mask+kitchen gloves combo spraying down miniatures....

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Cardboard Fox posted:

That, and I probably looked like a lunatic on my balcony with the full mask+kitchen gloves combo spraying down miniatures....

One of us, one of us, one of us.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

I need to paint more, having a blast with some low stakes vampires. Very happy with the skin recipe, will probably the big vamp dude with the same tone.


Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Nebalebadingdong posted:

its true i have this penny, but im also over 40 feet tall so i think it evens out

i finished another house for my upcoming sci-fi morocco 6mm adventures




couple observations:
1. these would be so much easier to base with an airbrush :( wish i had space for one
2. i painted the recess on the roof to look like a pool or bath or something. it wasn't until after that i realized that it would probably be kinda odd to have on top of a moroccan building lol. oh well i think it still looks neat, but what do others think?

I think the pool is great and works well- a funny little stand out!

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


two week progress report

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Those red weapons pop insanely hard, good choice

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Radiation Cow posted:

low stakes vampires

eyyyy

stackofflapjacks
Apr 7, 2009

Mmmmm

Nebalebadingdong posted:

its true i have this penny, but im also over 40 feet tall so i think it evens out

i finished another house for my upcoming sci-fi morocco 6mm adventures




couple observations:
1. these would be so much easier to base with an airbrush :( wish i had space for one
2. i painted the recess on the roof to look like a pool or bath or something. it wasn't until after that i realized that it would probably be kinda odd to have on top of a moroccan building lol. oh well i think it still looks neat, but what do others think?

It looks like a sunken living room sort of couch, cushioned area. Very on brand for a Moroccan theme, maybe a little tiny shade structure to go over it? Incredible work on your teeny tiny trucks and buildings, I’m inspired to spend money I don’t have getting 6mm stuff

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

stackofflapjacks posted:

It looks like a sunken living room sort of couch, cushioned area. Very on brand for a Moroccan theme, maybe a little tiny shade structure to go over it? Incredible work on your teeny tiny trucks and buildings, I’m inspired to spend money I don’t have getting 6mm stuff

heck yeah more small scale!

im considering filling the "pool" with water effects and seeing if i can add a tiny rubber ducky. im gonna get more feedback on how I've painted it first, i don't want to do something that might be considered disrespectful

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
The pool looks great but it read to my eye as a Moroccan tiled sunken lounge. You could just add some cushions and a hookah.

Also, will the bar be called Ricks?

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Beffer posted:

Moroccan tiled sunken lounge

is this a real thing?

dmnz
Feb 14, 2012

BNNRROWNWNWOWOWOWO

Radiation Cow posted:

I need to paint more, having a blast with some low stakes vampires. Very happy with the skin recipe, will probably the big vamp dude with the same tone.




I think I've seen this guy before somewhere..

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
Happy Thanksgiving! Just gotta keep painting and trying a little more each time; the better will happen.



Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Best I've seen. Amazing.

rain dogs
Apr 19, 2020

Fuuuuck. And that basing is so good too

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

Happy Thanksgiving! Just gotta keep painting and trying a little more each time; the better will happen.





Thanksgiving was last month :canada:, but these look great! As others have said the bases are insane, but the minis themselves are just as good.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
Aww, thanks. I was hyper-focusing on the details I wasn't happy about and things I could have executed better but if the whole picture looks good, mission accomplished. The tropical plant look was entirely accidental but once I hit the brains with a magenta contrast glow effect the rest worked itself out

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lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
I painted up some NPCs for our local necromunda group. It was pretty refreshing to do something I very rarely paint, sci-fi in this case.





Toothbrush servitor is best servitor:



The Void Fearmongers are HUGE and an absolute work hazard in the Underhive:



”where is the wet floor sign? I could have slipped and hurt myself! We’re blind you know! I didn’t see no sign!”
”We want to talk to your manageeeeerrrrrr!”

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Nov 24, 2023

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